Brau Supply

[whovous]

Yeah, I asked Bobby about the false bottom not long after he began offering them. He does not think he can sell enough of them to avoid losing money on the deal.

You guys have convinced me to lose the bazooka screen. Can you give me links for the dip tubes you use?

My Chugger pump and ball valve arrive Wednesday. I think I will play around with moving the temp probe into the same ZIP Code as the pump. I have also ordered a Loc-Line kit. I am going to get some more whirlpool action from my hopstands.

Thanks all for the advice.

 

[kanno]

Looking for advice on making some changes to my 24L Mini system.

1) I brew way too infrequently, and still I have managed to destroy one of the two pumps I use for the system (the second for feeding icewater to my plate chiller in summertime). I have pretty much decided to splurge on the Chugger with SS fittings. Two questions:
A. Any suggestions for where and how to put a ball valve on the output side of the pump? What valve should I use?
B. Should I move the temp probe to the same spot? It seems it would make handling the lid easier if it did not have the probe wire running to it.

2) I've clogged the bazooka tube too many times. I see some folks have simply removed it, but what have you used in its stead? I sometimes throw an awful lot of hops in there, and I worry about clogging the pump and or the plate chiller. I do have a hop rocket which can double as a filter, but that seems pretty cumbersome. Also, I know it is not a filter, but are some of you using dip tubes as well?

3) No one seems to make a false bottom for my 24L pot, and I am not interested in making my own. Any other suggestions for replacing the basket?

1) I had the same pump issues, and have since moved to a Chugger as well. No problems since. I use a regular three piece ball valve (just like on the unibrau) mounted right after a 90 deg angle on the output of my pump. I thought the same as you and that 90 deg angle is actually the temp probe T that used to be in the lid. I posted a lengthy youtube video in this thread where you can see this setup in action. It's definitely worth freeing the lid up.

2) I removed mine after the first brew and haven't looked back, but I haven't replaced it with anything. A dip tube sounds like it might be a nice idea. I use one of those ss mesh basket filters to keep my kettle hop gunk filtered out of the wort.

3) If you have the money, get one of those fancy mesh baskets to replace the bag & basket. At least that's what I would do.

 

[whovous]

Kanno, it was your video that got me thinking about moving the temp probe to the output of the pump. It just seems like it has to be a lot more manageable that way. Question: Do you leave the wire plugged into the probe now that you have moved it? I always disconnect it to wash the lid, and it sometimes takes weeks to hook it back up again. Also, I am hopeful that the Loc-Line will give me more of a whirlpool.

Do you a small mesh basket for the hops, or a kettle sized basket for the grain? Having a full size one custom made for my BC1124 sounds pretty spendy,

 

[kanno]

Yes, I just keep the probe plugged in. Sometimes it can be a bit cumbersome always moving the pump and controller together, but it's really not a big deal.

I just got one of those 6x14" mesh ss baskets for boiling/whirlpool hops. It worked really well in keeping the gunk seperated, but the real benefit is how much easier it is to clean over a bag. That's primarily why I want a big bucket for the grain now, because I'm sick of cleaning the tiny crevices of my big BIAB bag that I can't ever seem to get the grain bits out of.

Plus if I had a big basket, I could pull the grain, drain, dump the grain, give it a quick spraydown/cleaning in the sink, then put it back for the boil and then do all my hops in it. I wouldn't even need the 6x14 anymore. Plus all that area for the hops to float around would help extraction.

 

[TexasWine]

but the real benefit is how much easier it is to clean over a bag. That's primarily why I want a big bucket for the grain now, because I'm sick of cleaning the tiny crevices of my big BIAB bag that I can't ever seem to get the grain bits out of.

Plus if I had a big basket, I could pull the grain, drain, dump the grain, give it a quick spraydown/cleaning in the sink, then put it back for the boil and then do all my hops in it. I wouldn't even need the 6x14 anymore. Plus all that area for the hops to float around would help extraction.

Hey @kanno. Not trying to poo poo your experience, but if you're spending more than about 30 seconds spraying out the bag, you're probably a little too concerned about its cleanliness. Just get the major bits off, shake it and hang it to dry. Before you use it next time shake it once more so any dry bits left in the crevices come flying out. Easy peasy.

I actually have both a hop basket and an old wilserbrewer bag from my previous set up. I prefer using the wilserbrewer bag for holding hops for a multitude of reasons, one being ease of clean up.

And concerning using a grain basket during the boil, one thing that I've read about happening when people try this is steam gets trapped under the mesh basket and comes erupting up the side between the basket and kettle. This happens because the mesh of the basket is fine enough to hold down the steam bubbles. Makes a mess and doesn't work very well.

But, you could always give it a test. Do you have a small pot in your kitchen of roughly the same diameter as your hop screen? If so, try boiling some water with the hop screen and see what happens.

 

[whovous]

Turn a Wilser bag inside out and it rinses off quite easily in the sink. Those seams are very nicely sewn, which really helps with cleanup. I also have one or two of their hop bags. I do not use them much as they seem too big for my 24L pot, but I think I need to get over that.

Finding a hop basket short enough for my pot is also a challenge. I see an ad for Arbor Fabricating on the side of the page. I bet if I give them all of my money, they can do exactly what I need. Their work sure looks purty.

 

[BroomVikin]

You guys have convinced me to lose the bazooka screen. Can you give me links for the dip tubes you use?

Here's the dip tube I ordered. I even had them customize the length to better fit my kettle. These guys are great to work with and can usually get it turned around pretty quickly.

http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.c...ght_Wall_Keg_Weldless_Half_Inch_Diameter.html

 

[TexasWine]

You guys have convinced me to lose the bazooka screen. Can you give me links for the dip tubes you use?

No need to get a real dip tube. A 90° elbow works great, and is what I use. Depending on how much clearance you have, you could use this.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptelbow90.htm

Or this...

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptelbowstreet.htm

I've used these on two kettles now and my dead space is about 1 pint in both a 9 gallon and 15.5 gallon kettle. Plus this option is a lot cheaper than a "real" dip tube.

 

[whovous]

Oddly enough, I have an elbow that looks just like TW's first one arriving either today or tomorrow. Another use was planned, but that can wait if this fits. I suspect that it does. I also have a plastic version of this in my bottling bucket. With the Kickstarter Catalyst Fermenter likely to arrive soon, I don't think I need a bottling bucket any longer.

Arbor Fab has a hop basket small enough for my 24L pot. If I ask them to fab a false bottom as well, do I want 300 micron or something else?

 

[TexasWine]

If I ask them to fab a false bottom as well, do I want 300 micron or something else?

Not sure I understand the question. You just want something to hold the bag off the element. You don't need anything rated in microns for a false bottom. That's what your bag is for.

 

[whovous]

OK, I either overthought or underthought, you choose. I am trying to figure out what will and won't work.

Will this work? http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/False_Bottom_Custom_Size_11_and_1-16_inch_12_inch.html. It is a lot more rugged (and more spendy) than Bobby M's, but will it impede circulation too much?

I suspect I can simply add screws for legs if their round stands don't play nice with the heating element. And I see in Bobby M's thread where someone solved the "not quite the right size" problem by putting silicone tubing all the way around the outside.

 

[TexasWine]

OK, I either overthought or underthought, you choose. I am trying to figure out what will and won't work.

Will this work? http://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/False_Bottom_Custom_Size_11_and_1-16_inch_12_inch.html. It is a lot more rugged (and more spendy) than Bobby M's, but will it impede circulation too much?

I suspect I can simply add screws for legs if their round stands don't play nice with the heating element. And I see in Bobby M's thread where someone solved the "not quite the right size" problem by putting silicone tubing all the way around the outside.

I don't know if it will impede circulation, but my suspicion is that it would. You might pose a question to the larger BIAB forum and see if anyone has tried it.

Bobby's BIAB false bottom will not form a perfect seal against the kettle wall. That's not the intent. I'm not entirely sure the silicone tubing is doing a whole lot for that person except maybe giving them piece of mind.

 

[whovous]

No need to get a real dip tube. A 90° elbow works great, and is what I use. Depending on how much clearance you have, you could use this.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptelbow90.htm

Or this...

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/nptelbowstreet.htm

I've used these on two kettles now and my dead space is about 1 pint in both a 9 gallon and 15.5 gallon kettle. Plus this option is a lot cheaper than a "real" dip tube.

Tonight I removed the bazooka screen for the first time. It had a much higher crud factor than I expected. I put on an elbow like the one in your first link, but the hole is too close to the bottom to point it directly down. There is not a lot of value in having it at an angle, is there?

 

[whovous]

1) I had the same pump issues, and have since moved to a Chugger as well. No problems since. I use a regular three piece ball valve (just like on the unibrau) mounted right after a 90 deg angle on the output of my pump. I thought the same as you and that 90 deg angle is actually the temp probe T that used to be in the lid. I posted a lengthy youtube video in this thread where you can see this setup in action. It's definitely worth freeing the lid up.

2) I removed mine after the first brew and haven't looked back, but I haven't replaced it with anything. A dip tube sounds like it might be a nice idea. I use one of those ss mesh basket filters to keep my kettle hop gunk filtered out of the wort.

3) If you have the money, get one of those fancy mesh baskets to replace the bag & basket. At least that's what I would do.

I just took delivery of the Chugger today. Sweet mother of Bozo, I had no idea it was so big!

I think I am going to copy your idea of connecting the temp probe T directly to the pump. That seems to be the best way to re-use the parts I already have. I tried connecting the valve directly to the pump as TW suggests, but it looks like I need to track down still more parts to complete the loop.

 

[whovous]

I don't know if it will impede circulation, but my suspicion is that it would. You might pose a question to the larger BIAB forum and see if anyone has tried it.

Bobby's BIAB false bottom will not form a perfect seal against the kettle wall. That's not the intent. I'm not entirely sure the silicone tubing is doing a whole lot for that person except maybe giving them piece of mind.

Posted the question but got no replies. Do you think this bottom would be better or worse than the steamer basket that comes with the Bayou Classic 1124?

 

[TexasWine]

Tonight I removed the bazooka screen for the first time. It had a much higher crud factor than I expected. I put on an elbow like the one in your first link, but the hole is too close to the bottom to point it directly down. There is not a lot of value in having it at an angle, is there?

Nope, not gonna do a lot of good at an angle. But I'm curious what exactly the problem is. Is it that you can't screw it on?

When I put mine on it hit the bottom when it was at an angle. I had to force it around the turn, scrubbing the bottom of the kettle. I did this enough times until it was snug.

 

[TexasWine]

Posted the question but got no replies. Do you think this bottom would be better or worse than the steamer basket that comes with the Bayou Classic 1124?

Only a guess, but I think it would be way worse for circulation to have both a bag and this false bottom.

 

[whovous]

Nope, not gonna do a lot of good at an angle. But I'm curious what exactly the problem is. Is it that you can't screw it on?

When I put mine on it hit the bottom when it was at an angle. I had to force it around the turn, scrubbing the bottom of the kettle. I did this enough times until it was snug.

I don't think this is a matter of not applying enough force. I think I would have to seriously bend something to complete the turn, and that if I did manage to point it straight down, I might wind up with a complete seal that passed no wort at all.

When I added one to my bottling bucket, I had to scrub the bottom to complete the turn. It pretty much sealed as well. I turned it so it was slightly less than vertical and it worked just fine.

 

[whovous]

Only a guess, but I think it would be way worse for circulation to have both a bag and this false bottom.

I think I will continue the search then. I would like to lose the steamer bucket, but if I do so without a bottom I am going to scorch the bag the very first chance I get.

 

[TexasWine]

I think I will continue the search then. I would like to lose the steamer bucket, but if I do so without a bottom I am going to scorch the bag the very first chance I get.

Ever consider something like this?

Presto Cooking/Canning Rack for Pressure Canner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LNY6T2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Screw some SS bolts in for legs and punch a few more holes in it or cut some slots with an angle grinder to make sure you get good flow.

 

[whovous]

Ha! I don't even know what an angle grinder is, let alone how to use one. I think you've over-estimated my skill set.

I am wondering about these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PX2ACQW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The legs are plenty long enough, and I suspect it doesn't need to be especially strong given that stretching the bag over the rim will support part of the weight and don't think I ever use more than 6-7 pounds of grain. Rust may be an issue though.

 

[TexasWine]

Ha! I don't even know what an angle grinder is, let alone how to use one. I think you've over-estimated my skill set.

I am wondering about these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PX2ACQW/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The legs are plenty long enough, and I suspect it doesn't need to be especially strong given that stretching the bag over the rim will support part of the weight and don't think I ever use more than 6-7 pounds of grain. Rust may be an issue though.

Ha, sorry about that.

Concerning strength, don't underestimate the pressure exerted by the bag during what I would call a vacuum situation, especially now that you've changed your pump to something a little more hefty. Did you see the person on the BIAB false bottom thread that collapsed their false bottom due to the pump emptying out the volume under the bottom? It had to take a ton of pressure to do that.

Something like this looks a little beefier, and if made from stainless steel instead of just being chrome plated. It shouldn't rust.

Loghot Multi-Purpose Round Stainless Steel Cross Wire Round Steaming Cooling Barbecue Racks/Carbon Baking Net/Grills/Pan Grate with Legs (Diameter-11.6 Inches) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR3XA9Y/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Edit: here's the post with the collapsed bottom. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7617650

 

[kanno]

Guess I should have kept up with this thread... I just happened to order a diptube from brewhardware as well. I had the norcal style one in my cart for a bit, but then just went with this: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/elbarb.htm and a male-male 1/2" nipple. Also sprung for the loc-line kit (I want my whirlpool to actually whirlpool again) and a brand new wilser bag (my biab bag was starting to get holes...)

I'll let you know how it goes, hopefully the diptube fits without scraping the bottom. One preferable thing about the expensive one is that it was easily cuttable with a hacksaw/etc if it wouldn't fit. Not such the case with the beefy 90 deg angle piece.

 

[whovous]

Kanno, I think you have something bigger than my 24qt pot. If the valve is mounted a bit higher, you should be fine. If not, then not so fine. Which lock-line kit did you get? I added the round orange piece thinking it was perfect for whirlpooling, but somehow completely missed all those extra holes. I think I am going to give it a try anyway, but I suspect it will not whirlpool in the slightest.

TexasWine, that rack you linked has a ton going for it. It is close to the diameter of my pot, and the leg weld method looks much stronger than Bobby's welded screw legs. The problem is that it is less than an inch high. Any ideas for making it taller without sacrificing strength and stability?

 

[TexasWine]

TexasWine, that rack you linked has a ton going for it. It is close to the diameter of my pot, and the leg weld method looks much stronger than Bobby's welded screw legs. The problem is that it is less than an inch high. Any ideas for making it taller without sacrificing strength and stability?

Some long bolts, a few nuts, and some washers should do the trick. You're essentially going to sandwich the wires if the false bottom between two washers using two nuts.

Get washers big enough to cover those squares. Thread a nut onto a bolt, slip on a washer, place the washer against the bottom, slip on another washer, and thread on another bolt. Repeat everywhere you want/need support.

I think that should work.

 

[whovous]

I just ordered the rack.

 

[whovous]

Delete

 

[kanno]

Which lock-line kit did you get?

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/mashrecirculation.htm

I got this one. I believe it only has one hole at the end, and then if you wanna buy the sparge ring as an attachment you can. I think the whole point of these is they're very aimable and won't move, unlike the silicone hose.

As for the sparge attachment, I think it might be nice as sometimes I wonder how well the hot water from my recirc mixes back in during mashing only coming from one point near the bottom... but really I guess the element heat is rising up through the mash anyways so it's probably nothing to worry about. My mash efficiencies are still a bit unstable though, so I think about these things.

 

[whovous]

Yeah, my efficiencies have ranged from about 60 all the way up to 88%. I definitely need to dial in my process.

I've ordered a couple more 5" segments of the Loc-Line, so I should be able to make my own single ended circle for whirlpooling. Hope the idea works.

 

[JPBowden]

I'm joining the club, just ordered a 120V 15A 6 gallon system today.

The waiting begins.

 

[TexasWine]

I'm joining the club, just ordered a 120V 15A 6 gallon system today.

The waiting begins.

Congrats. I predict you're really gonna enjoy it.

Let us know how the maiden voyage goes.

 

[whovous]

I am not sure if anyone else has the 24Qt Mini system like I do, but the mesh rack that TW found is sturdy as all get out. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IR3XA9Y/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 I expect that it plus a well tied off Wilser bag is going to let me grind my grain much more fine and still have no cavitation issues. I plan to get a lot of mileage out of the valve installed on the exit side of my new Chugger pump as well. That is a lot more pump than this system needs.

 

[JPBowden]

Steven's really on top of things. I placed my order Saturday afternoon, got the shipping notice on Monday afternoon.

 

[andrewmaixner]

Yeah, my efficiencies have ranged from about 60 all the way up to 88%. I definitely need to dial in my process.

I've ordered a couple more 5" segments of the Loc-Line, so I should be able to make my own single ended circle for whirlpooling. Hope the idea works.

I also have a recirculating eBIAB system, and i think the key to my repeatable efficency number is that i always squeeze, pour one or two gallons, and squeeze again. I have stayed in the 73-80% range for 1040 to 1090 gravity, reliably and predictably scaling down as gravity increases. (.045 crush)

 

[ShaLaH]

I was researching several electric brewing systems, was mainly curious about The Grainfather & Braumeister and stumbled upon this thread. This looks like a nice system and am really curious about it - I like that it seems pretty easy to switch out parts if something brakes whereas other systems have proprietary parts.

Do the mash temps hold well? Are there any big temp swings with this?

Also, I've never used a plate chiller - is it effective in cooling wort and easy to hook up with this?

Really interested in this, I decided after my last batch that I'm done with 2 pots and an igloo cooler and jumping through hoops to hit my strike temp, undershooting my mash temp, leaky mash tun, etc.

I'd love to know why ya'll ended up choosing this over other systems.

 

[andrewmaixner]

I was researching several electric brewing systems, was mainly curious about The Grainfather & Braumeister and stumbled upon this thread. This looks like a nice system and am really curious about it - I like that it seems pretty easy to switch out parts if something brakes whereas other systems have proprietary parts.

Do the mash temps hold well? Are there any big temp swings with this?

Yes, No

Also, I've never used a plate chiller - is it effective in cooling wort

very effective.
but, much more sensitive to immediate and proper cleaning than a slightly slower tube-based counterflow (or a super-easy-cleaning immersion chiller), both of which could easily be substituted here. You can google "how to clean a plate chiller" for good info on that.

and easy to hook up with this?

yes, easy to hook up. The connections are QDs which are quite easy to use.

Really interested in this, I decided after my last batch that I'm done with 2 pots and an igloo cooler and jumping through hoops to hit my strike temp, undershooting my mash temp, leaky mash tun, etc.
I'd love to know why ya'll ended up choosing this over other systems.

Like you hinted at: simplicity, ease of use, less equipment to take care of. I am very happy that I switched to single vessel eBIAB.

I don't have the system, but researched it thoroughly before buying what I ended up with. Had I been on a budget, I would have gotten it instead.
I am considering also making a small (3gal) system for tiny experimental batches, and if I do, it would be this general style.

 

[TexasWine]

I was researching several electric brewing systems, was mainly curious about The Grainfather & Braumeister and stumbled upon this thread. This looks like a nice system and am really curious about it - I like that it seems pretty easy to switch out parts if something brakes whereas other systems have proprietary parts.

Do the mash temps hold well? Are there any big temp swings with this?

Also, I've never used a plate chiller - is it effective in cooling wort and easy to hook up with this?

Really interested in this, I decided after my last batch that I'm done with 2 pots and an igloo cooler and jumping through hoops to hit my strike temp, undershooting my mash temp, leaky mash tun, etc.

I'd love to know why ya'll ended up choosing this over other systems.

Hey @ShaLah. Yes, temps hold amazingly well, and the plate chiller is a snap as long as you take your system through a cleaning cycle at the end of each brew day.

As for why this system, I've written this out a few times so I hope I can remember all the variety of reasons. You've mentioned one already, the ease of replacing broken parts. Some others, if comparing to the Grainfather....

-for an apples to apples comparison (analog controllers on both) the Brau Supply system is much cheaper at $659 with the 30 plate chiller, saving you $260
-you get way more power (wattage), 3000 watts versus 1650 watts
-no sparge brewing is a possibility

I'm sure I could think of others, but my head is pounding from allergies and staring at this screen is not doing me any favors.

But here's the bottom line question. If faced with the same decision, would I still land on the Brau Supply? The answer is absolutely, resoundingly yes. And I say that even after having made some customizations to my set up that made the system better suited for me.

Hit up Steven, @brausupply here in the forum, or email him with any specific questions you've got. He's a great guy to do business with and is constantly striving to make a better, cost effective product.

 

[ShaLaH]

Thanks all for the replies and info. I'm gonna research a little more and hopefully pull the trigger before the end of the year.

 

[doug33]

I just bought the mini cause I usually do 3 gallon batches. Does anyone ever pull the grain out and sparge up to 5 gallons pre-boil? Just curious if I'd be able to do an occasional larger batch that way.

 

[whovous]

No, but I've been giving thought to the best way to do just that