bottled 90 min ipa clone, weird.

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olz431

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So I tried a bottle after a week of a 90 min ipa clone. The first bottle smelled and tasted of bananas and was flat, I grabbed another that was carbed and had no hint of banana. It got hot during fermentation for a few hours but got it under control. Did I have an infected bottle? Did i not get the pruning solution mixed in? I used 4 oz of corn sugar in about 4.5 gallons of beer. I had another flat one a few days ago and there was no hint of banana at all......
Before bottling it tasted great as does this carbed bottle I am drinking now. I used nottingham yeast.
 
BTW all of the botles were thoroughly rinsed, then soaked in a strong solution of starsan for 20+ minutes as well as the bottle caps.
 
65-68, a week tomorrow for in the bottles. It got up to 80 during the ferment for 5 or less hours. The pre bottling sample had no hint of bananers.
The ferment other than the hot period was 65-68.
 
The smell of bananas was Probibly caused by isoamyl acetate - a chemical that is produced in limited amounts in fermentation of hefeweizens. That one bottle I would guess was not sanitary enough ( for what ever reason) . As for the sporatic carbonation - how did your fermentation go overall? Aside from it got a little hot- how was your lag time? How does your cake look? Did fermentation get going off to a good start& then stall out? What's your finishing gravity ?

I ask questions , because I have had similar problems , and just want to narrow my answers a little .
 
Fermentation was extremely violent and had less than 6-10 hour lag time, went from 082 to 011 or 10 in less than 7 days. I dry hopped with 4 oz. The only hint of banana was in 1 of 3 bottles this far. Maybe I should grab another to see how widespread this is?
 
Just cracked open another an no banana at all, slightly carbed but far from ready. These beers aren't easy to sample a bunch of let me te you that.
BTW I racked this into the secondary to clear it, also used 5-8 drops of biofine, I'm trying to think of everything.
 
Yeah do go through the lot and see which ones didn't carb up right. In general, I give my beers at least 2 weeks to bottle condition ( sours and Saisons I give at least a month), I have noticed you will see inconsistencies in carbonation before allowing a proper amount of time to condition .

Other then that - I would say the inconsistencies may be due to sanitation. Also, I like to turn my priming sugar into a simple syrup- just mix it with a small amount of water ( enough to barely wet it ) , boil for 5 minutes and cool- then add that to your bottling bucket . I find consistency from bottle to bottle to be a lot better .

Hope the best! Cheers to beers !

Blinebuddy
 
Also - be cautious of how strong of star San you use in bottling: I find 5ml/gallon is more then sufficient . If its too strong , it can kill what yeast may be left so carbonation can be less due to that.
 
Yeah I boiled the sugar before mixing it into the bottling bucket. I wish I could wait 2 weeks!
 
For the bottles I use probably an oz to 7-8 gallons in the water since I soak probably around a half hour.
 
Not to change the subject but where did you get the clone recipe? I want to try brewing this next.
 
It's in the recipe section near the top of the ipa section, the hops are spot on, I'm waiting for carbonatiob to check the taste.
 
Sounds about right . Well, if anything it may just be due to variance in sanitation from bottle to bottle . I'd wait it out - time will help with carbonation and consistency . The number one fail safe rule of odd , or different beers is to set them aside and come back to them.
 
Bansheerider, I had a handfull of yamaha rds, one wicked ported by motocarrera long rod 400 with 36mm flatslides and milled jugs, 028" squish, 78 HP on a 275lb bike, two strokes are hard to handle, all grain brewing is not. I also had a piped h1 triple :D
 
Bansheerider, I had a handfull of yamaha rds, one wicked ported by motocarrera long rod 400 with 36mm flatslides and milled jugs, 028" squish, 78 HP on a 275lb bike, two strokes are hard to handle, all grain brewing is not. I also had a piped h1 triple :D

Haha good to know. The price of equipment is keeps me from AG for now. I just dumped a bunch of money in a mini fridge conversion to kegerator and all new kegging equipment. Although the price to beef up banshees is not cheap either.
 
If you buy a rubbermaid 10 gal cooler and a pot big enough for full boils I will send u a brass valve, chunk of brass pipe, stainless washers and a t with fittings to attatch a stainless toilet supply line mesh to just because I can get the stuff cheaper than dirt. Pm if you want to go all grain.
 
If you buy a rubbermaid 10 gal cooler and a pot big enough for full boils I will send u a brass valve, chunk of brass pipe, stainless washers and a t with fittings to attatch a stainless toilet supply line mesh to just because I can get the stuff cheaper than dirt. Pm if you want to go all grain.

Thanks for the offer, I'll keep that in mind. I saw a recipe for an extract 60 min IPA and it says to boil the extract for 60 min. What would happen if I added 6 out of the 9 pounds of LME at flame out for this recipe?
 
I do not know, I have no experimentation with extract as I have only done one batch.
 
...What would happen if I added 6 out of the 9 pounds of LME at flame out for this recipe?

That's actually the preferred method. It keeps the DME/LME from caramelizing during the boil, making for a lower SRM, plus you get better hops alpha acid conversion from the lower gravity.

I do extracts with partial mashes and before I joined this forum I used to add all the DME at the beginning and my beers always were darker than they should have been. l also think the longer extract boil creates more unfermentables which in turn maybe responsible for my beers always having had a higher FG than calculated.

Looking into AG now.
 
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