Blichmann BoilCoil Help

[kmudrick]

Hi,

I recently bought a Blichmann BoilCoil, but I'm having trouble piecing everything together besides the BC itself to actually safely operate it.

I bought the 10 gallon 240v version. I live in an apartment. This is the main reason I need to switch to electric brewing; no space/option for outdoor propane burners any more (and using an 1800w induction cooktop was too painful to continue using - took way to long to get wort to anything resembling a boil.)

In terms of my 240v options in the house: 30 amp breaker that feeds to the dryer (not really an option, since this outlet is on the second floor of my apartment and nowhere near where I would be brewing) and a 50 amp breaker that feeds to my electric range, with a 14-50 outlet that the range plugs in to. The outlet is easily accessible by removing the pots & pans drawer at the bottom of the range.

My initial approach was to try an inline gfci extension + an adaptor to go from the 14-50 to 6-30:

The adaptor: http://www.stayonline.com/detail.aspx?id=38940
The inline gfci: http://www.mcmaster.com/#7348k42/=vb24gd

The BoilCoil 6-30 plug then plugs directly into the gfci extension, which plugs into the wall via the adaptor.

I bought these, but after reading more and more in this forum, I'm thinking this is not a very safe approach:

1) The gfci response time might not actually be fast enough to protect me (I don't know the actual response time on this thing)
2) A short on the line side, since it is 50a, would not be protected by a 30a device
3) I still have not solved the easy-way-to-turn-off-and-on without just unplugging the BC, which seems like a no-no

So, realistically speaking, what are my options? In an apartment complex, so I can't just hire an electrician to install a 50a gfci breaker where the existing 50a breaker is (plus, who knows how long I will be here.) So ideally I'd love to have something a little portable.

A lot of people seem to point out spa panels as an option. I'd personally prefer to do little or no wiring myself. Is it safe to have a freestanding spa panel? Is it safe to feed it via my 14-50 outlet with a plug? The spa panel alone doesn't solve being able to turn the BoilCoil on and off via a switch either (but can you mount an on-off switch in one?)

Are there any other options - pre-built preferably, that I'm missing?

PS, I've already drilled my boilermaker & mounted the boilcoil, so I'm kind of locked in there.

 

[eulipion2]

Don't plug the BoilCoil directly into the wall. You'll have no way to control its heat output. You really need a control panel with some sort of power regulator. Browse around this forum and you'll find a wide range from simple to complex projects. Sorry I can't help more, but I'm on my phone at the moment and can't easily find examples for you.

A spa panel is a really good idea for protecting yourself.

You can find pre-wired control panels, but you'll save a ton of cash building one yourself. Just have someone familiar with electrical wiring to check your work.

 

[drksky]

I use a simple Still Dragon controller (linky) to control my boil coil.

They have a 50A breaker in a kitchen that's NOT a GFCI? Pretty sure that's not code. Bring it to your apt. manager's attention and maybe the problem will fix itself. In my area, all circuits to rooms with water need to be GFCI protected. Either at the breaker or the outlet.

 

[processhead]

I use a simple Still Dragon controller (linky) to control my boil coil.

They have a 50A breaker in a kitchen that's NOT a GFCI? Pretty sure that's not code. Bring it to your apt. manager's attention and maybe the problem will fix itself. In my area, all circuits to rooms with water need to be GFCI protected. Either at the breaker or the outlet.

A 240 volt 50 A range outlet typically would not have a GFCI breaker. You may be thinking of 120 volt GFCI kitchen appliance outlets which has been required by code for a while now.

An older house or apartment might not even have these, though.

 

[kmudrick]

A 240 volt 50 A range outlet typically would not have a GFCI breaker. You may be thinking of 120 volt GFCI kitchen appliance outlets which has been required by code for a while now.

An older house or apartment might not even have these, though.

Oh yeah, the place is not even a year old and all the kitchen & bathroom 120v outlets are gfci - but not the 240/50.

 

[augiedoggy]

I use a simple Still Dragon controller (linky) to control my boil coil.

They have a 50A breaker in a kitchen that's NOT a GFCI? Pretty sure that's not code. Bring it to your apt. manager's attention and maybe the problem will fix itself. In my area, all circuits to rooms with water need to be GFCI protected. Either at the breaker or the outlet.

you may not know this but many appliances will not run on GFCI breakers.. they would trip them... many fridges and dryers do this and I would imagine some stoves as well... That said I have never seen a GFCI 240v breaker used in a house myself besides for a hot tub application. I used to maintain a bunch of newer homes and apartments as a sidejob a few years back for like 15 years...

 

[brewmasterorr]

This is the Blichmann controller: http://www.highgravitybrew.com/stor...wer-Control-Module-Electric-240V-384p4527.htm

You can build one or find others for less...

Jeff

 

[kmudrick]

This is the Blichmann controller: http://www.highgravitybrew.com/stor...wer-Control-Module-Electric-240V-384p4527.htm

You can build one or find others for less...

Jeff

Thanks. I've already bought the stupid boilcoil and drilled my stupid boilermaker, so I've already got sunk cost into this thing (i.e. the price of that alone doesn't bother me too much.) The problem with the Blichmann Electric Control Module - while it seems as though it will work perfectly to control the heat, it still doesn't solve my gfci problem. That's what worries me more.

The Tower of Power LTE Stand (more money down the blichmann drain!) itself has an integrated gfci receptacle (which you have to assemble yourself) - but that seems to be meant for 120v devices like pumps.

 

[brewmasterorr]

Thanks. I've already bought the stupid boilcoil and drilled my stupid boilermaker, so I've already got sunk cost into this thing (i.e. the price of that alone doesn't bother me too much.) The problem with the Blichmann Electric Control Module - while it seems as though it will work perfectly to control the heat, it still doesn't solve my gfci problem. That's what worries me more.

The Tower of Power LTE Stand (more money down the blichmann drain!) itself has an integrated gfci receptacle (which you have to assemble yourself) - buty that seems to be meant for 120v devices like pumps.

I am no electrician but the setup for gfci you have should work fine. You should reach out to PJ (one of the guys on the forum to confirm ). The system should only pull 30 amps with the 30 amp plug.

 

[kmudrick]

I am no electrician but the setup for gfci you have should work fine. You should reach out to PJ (one of the guys on the forum to confirm ). The system should only pull 30 amps with the 30 amp plug.

Thanks. Looks like PJ doesn't accept PMs, so I'm not sure how to get his attention

BTW, for more detail on the inline gfci, here's the actual specs on what I have: http://www.trci.net/products/shock-shield/cord-sets/in-line-cords-mechanical-locking - the 240/30 one. Says the trip level is 4-6mA and trip response time is "less than 25mS". That at least seems in line with what the electric brewery says is acceptable in their guide:

While the electrical code varies from country to country, in the United States GFIs are typically required in kitchens, bathrooms, and other places that can be wet and the National Electrical Code (NEC) requires that GFI devices intended to protect people interrupt the circuit if the leakage current exceeds a range of 4–6 mA of current (the trip setting is typically 5 mA) within 25 ms.

(from http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/control-panel-part-2?page=3)

So I guess (given, I need to accept that I have to just buy the Electric ToP controller or build my own) the questions really are:

1. Is it safe to step down from my 14-50 outlet to 6-30 via the adaptor I bought (its 8 gauge)
2. Is it safe that that (short) extension is fronting the inline gfci itself (the back of the unit says not to use an extension cord, now that I look at it)

 

[P-J]

Thanks. Looks like PJ doesn't accept PMs, so I'm not sure how to get his attention

...

Kevin, Got your message. Will do my best to try and help...

P-J

 

[Zepth]

So I guess (given, I need to accept that I have to just buy the Electric ToP controller or build my own) the questions really are:

1. Is it safe to step down from my 14-50 outlet to 6-30 via the adaptor I bought (its 8 gauge)
2. Is it safe that that (short) extension is fronting the inline gfci itself (the back of the unit says not to use an extension cord, now that I look at it)

I currently plug my control panel into the 14-50 stove plug and run the kettle off an L6-30. about 10 electric batches in and no problems related to that.

In my experience anything that states to "not use with extension cords" is because of those "granny cords' that most people avoid like the plague. You know, those el-cheapo dollar store 22 gauge fire hazards? Those ones. An 8 gauge wire for a short distance should be perfectly capable of taking the load.

Off Topic: I currently run both my coffee maker and kitchen kettle off an extension cord going to the same plug. Both claim to no tbe used with an extension and certainly not on a splitter. It's a 12 gauge cord (14 gauge wall wire), and I never even try to run both at the same time. Sizing the cord to the application makes all the difference.