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johnnybrews12

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Hey All,

I used my new brew stand (Husky tool cart) for the first time the other day and got a sh*t load of condensation on the wall that it backs up to as well as the molding on the ceiling. Before the stand, I'd brew on the ground in the middle of my apartment and never noticed any condensation buildup. I currently have a condenser setup that I have not used because:

1) My sink is quite a ways from my brew area and I don't have the tubing necessary to reach.
2) My water pressure is pretty weak and I'm not sure it would work anyway.
3) I built it for my last apartment and never actually used it - so I'd have to test it to measure boil off rate, power level of the element, etc. and I don't have time to re-dial in my system before the next brew.

I've been looking into building a cheap vent hood (something like this) but I can't drill into the ceiling or wall because I'm renting my place. Does anybody have any ideas of a way I could use a hood like that without permanently mounting something on the wall or ceiling? Maybe something like 3 clamps around the perimeter of the brew kettle that extend up and hold the hood on top. I'd really appreciate some ideas. I attached a picture of my setup. Thanks.
 

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You could build a frame mounted to the back or top of your Husky work bench out of perforated slotted angle sections. Might not be pretty but it would be functional. Its the same bracket material in the cheap vent hood picture. Your average Home Depot/Lowes carries it.
 
You could build a frame mounted to the back or top of your Husky work bench out of perforated slotted angle sections. Might not be pretty but it would be functional. Its the same bracket material in the cheap vent hood picture. Your average Home Depot/Lowes carries it.
I don't want to mount anything other than the control box to the Husky - but I like the idea of a standing frame. I might be able to build what you're talking about and add some rubber feet to the bottom to avoid slippage. It'll be a tight fit though - need to take some measurements. Thanks for the idea!
 
Something as simple as a $20 box fan blowing air above your kettle could possibly eliminate the condensation you experienced.

The steam just constantly huts that area and condensates. Mixing it w some room air might make all the difference....

Cracking a window or two would also help...
You're probably right, a box fan sounds like a good idea. I'll probably go that route before I spend a bunch of money on a quasi vent hood setup. KISS, right? I'll update in the next couple weeks as to how it works. Thanks!
 
You could try a steam slayer or the condenser boss.

I have the condensor boss, only because the steam slayer is rarely in stock. It works well at eliminating steam. There is a thread started by brundog, who originally had the idea for these. Several people built their own version.

https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/steamslayer.htm?Click=6524

https://www.brew-boss.com/Condenser-Boss-Boil-Kettle-Condenser-p/cb-bb-apmount.htm

edit:
Nevermind. Somehow missed that you don’t want to use a condenser setup... although to me, this seems like the easiest solution (other than using a fan and opening some windows).
 
You have everything you need except some cheap tubing, that sounds to me like the easiest and cheapest way to solve your problem.
 
Does anybody know if something like this fan would work? HURRICANE 736520 Fan, Classic 6"-Clip, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGFJFSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_iuXlEbX5DGWM0

I’m thinking of clipping this into the side of my kettle and have it blowing towards an open door. It says it’s about 300CFM. Just wondering if anybody has done something similar and whether or not it actually did anything.
 
I would suggest wandering around to Home Depot or similar and having a look at their bathroom extractor fans. Probably a 6 inch fan with a length of flexible duct to hang out the nearest window will solve the problem. You'd just have to fashion a mount of some sort, take 2 pieces of 1"x1" wood, mount vertically on either side of the fan as legs extend 4" below the fan and then cut into the bottom of the legs to slide over the rim of the kettle.
 
I would suggest wandering around to Home Depot or similar and having a look at their bathroom extractor fans. Probably a 6 inch fan with a length of flexible duct to hang out the nearest window will solve the problem. You'd just have to fashion a mount of some sort, take 2 pieces of 1"x1" wood, mount vertically on either side of the fan as legs extend 4" below the fan and then cut into the bottom of the legs to slide over the rim of the kettle.
For this solution, you will have to figure out how to deal with the water that will condense in the ducting. This is not something to ignore.

Brew on :mug:
 
For this solution, you will have to figure out how to deal with the water that will condense in the ducting. This is not something to ignore.

Brew on :mug:
Point noted. Possible solutions in my mind could be sloping the duct towards the window if possible, or identify a suitable low point in the run, punch a 1/4" hole in the duct and drain into a bucket via some fish tank airline tubing and duct tape.
 
I s
Point noted. Possible solutions in my mind could be sloping the duct towards the window if possible, or identify a suitable low point in the run, punch a 1/4" hole in the duct and drain into a bucket via some fish tank airline tubing and duct tape.
i still say the easiest (and best) thing for the op to do would be to use the condenser boss which he already has.

It needs very low pressure to work. Then just get an adapter to run a hose from the sink to brew area. You just have to empty the drain bucket 1-2 times per brew.

It’s not hard to dial in a new system and figure out boil off rate... only takes an hour.

All you need is a garden hose and a sink-hose adapter (eg Camco Water Bandit -Connects Your Standard Water Hose To Various Water Sources - Lead Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDOSKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ym0lEbXQD4F80 ).

Done. No need to jerry rig a rink-dink hood.
 
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I don’t think clipping a fan on the side of the kettle is a good idea.

If you don’t want to use your steam slayer or build a hood, I would place a fan, just about any mid size desktop fan in the near vicinity of the kettle blowing across the top of kettle....any gentle air movement will break up the steam.

Then I would open a door or window to add fresh air, or better yet a window fan or a box fan exhausting room air...

Not elegant, not the best solution, but two simple fans will turn your brewing area into a wind tunnel lol goodbye condensation:)
 
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I s

i still say the easiest (and best) thing for the op to do would be to use the condenser boss which he already has.

It needs very low pressure to work. Then just get an adapter to run a hose from the sink to brew area. You just have to empty the drain bucket 1-2 times per brew.

It’s not hard to dial in a new system and figure out boil off rate... only takes an hour.

All you need is a garden hose and a sink-hose adapter (eg Camco Water Bandit -Connects Your Standard Water Hose To Various Water Sources - Lead Free https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EDOSKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ym0lEbXQD4F80 ).

Done. No need to jerry rig a rink-dink hood.
+1 on the steam condenser idea. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out a vent system that wouldn't be too onerous to set up, which was swiftly obviated once I discovered steam condensers. For the faucet connection, if the spout has a thread for an aerater, I would recommend a faucet diverter which allows you to use both the main faucet and the auxiliary hose connection, such as https://www.amazon.com/SmarterFresh-Diverter-Attachment-Connector-Diversion/dp/B01FGB5T0I or https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-09-2125-Faucet-Aerator-Diverter/dp/B0074II66G.
 
Has anyone tried this with an all in one system? (Brewzilla 35L in my case)

I was thinking about buying a lid like this (Homebrew Outpost - Homebrewing and Winemaking Supplies) . Attaching a 1.5" TC fitting to the top hole seems like the easiest idea but the suggestion has been to install the TC fitting on the side of the unit. If that were the case, the top hole would have to be plugged somehow wouldn't it?
 

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