Hi,
I have brewed a number of beers from extract kits. These have all been "partial mash" kits which included specialty grains to steep. I just brewed my first clone beer (90 Shilling), assembling all the ingredients myself instead of in a kit. This one called for DME or LME, and I went with the 6lb of DME it called for since I'd just read DME is a better choice as it stays fresh longer.
This was the first time I'd used DME, other than the small amounts I use for a yeast starter. The recipe said to bring the wort to a boil after I'd steeped the specialty grains, then cut the heat and add the DME. I just cut the two bags open and poured them right into the kettle. That's where I ran into the first issue as the DME started clumping badly as soon as it hit the steam coming off the wort. The second issue I ran into was I had a pattern on the bottom of my kettle when I drained the wort, matching my burner stand. I can only assume that was some scorched DME, although it was a medium brown color (not black or anything).
I stirred as much as I could when I added the DME, but I have a Blichmann BoilerMaker, and between the thermometer stem and hop blocker I use, it's hard to stir the bottom of the kettle much at all. I've only had the beer kegged for a week now, but I think there's a little bit of a "burned" taste to it. I'm hoping that just some of the darker roasted grains coming through - only time will tell.
The whole process got me wondering if there is a better way to add DME or LME. I did some searches and found one post that suggested using one less gallon of water for steeping, filling a smaller pot with one gallon of the hottest tap water you have, dissolving the LME or DME in that, and then pouring that mixture into your kettle after the grains have steeped.
That got me wondering if it's really necessary to bring the wort up to a boil after steeping, before adding the DME or LME. Since the wort would probably be around 155-160 degrees after steeping, and the burner would have been off for half an hour or so, could I just add the DME or LME at that time, then heat to a boil and proceed as usual? Or is there a reason that the initial wort needs to be brought to a boil immediately after steeped the specialty grains?
I'd appreciate any advice on how you add your DME and LME. I've never had an issue with LME in the past, that I know of, even though that's the one I've always heard can scorch if you're not careful.
Thanks for your insight!
I have brewed a number of beers from extract kits. These have all been "partial mash" kits which included specialty grains to steep. I just brewed my first clone beer (90 Shilling), assembling all the ingredients myself instead of in a kit. This one called for DME or LME, and I went with the 6lb of DME it called for since I'd just read DME is a better choice as it stays fresh longer.
This was the first time I'd used DME, other than the small amounts I use for a yeast starter. The recipe said to bring the wort to a boil after I'd steeped the specialty grains, then cut the heat and add the DME. I just cut the two bags open and poured them right into the kettle. That's where I ran into the first issue as the DME started clumping badly as soon as it hit the steam coming off the wort. The second issue I ran into was I had a pattern on the bottom of my kettle when I drained the wort, matching my burner stand. I can only assume that was some scorched DME, although it was a medium brown color (not black or anything).
I stirred as much as I could when I added the DME, but I have a Blichmann BoilerMaker, and between the thermometer stem and hop blocker I use, it's hard to stir the bottom of the kettle much at all. I've only had the beer kegged for a week now, but I think there's a little bit of a "burned" taste to it. I'm hoping that just some of the darker roasted grains coming through - only time will tell.
The whole process got me wondering if there is a better way to add DME or LME. I did some searches and found one post that suggested using one less gallon of water for steeping, filling a smaller pot with one gallon of the hottest tap water you have, dissolving the LME or DME in that, and then pouring that mixture into your kettle after the grains have steeped.
That got me wondering if it's really necessary to bring the wort up to a boil after steeping, before adding the DME or LME. Since the wort would probably be around 155-160 degrees after steeping, and the burner would have been off for half an hour or so, could I just add the DME or LME at that time, then heat to a boil and proceed as usual? Or is there a reason that the initial wort needs to be brought to a boil immediately after steeped the specialty grains?
I'd appreciate any advice on how you add your DME and LME. I've never had an issue with LME in the past, that I know of, even though that's the one I've always heard can scorch if you're not careful.
Thanks for your insight!