Best Kettle Port Configuration

[butterblum]

I'm in the process of building my kettle for a small indoor electric BIAB setup - I wanted some input on the best kettle configuration before I buy parts.
I have a 10gal kettle - I know that is way too small for some people, but I have actually been trying to go smaller and brew 3 gallon batches because I would like to brew more frequently and go through my batches quicker.
It already has a single 1/2" NPT fitting welded onto the bottom of the side of the kettle (I may drill this out at some point and replace it with a TC fitting, but I am going to leave it for now).
I am going to solder two 1.5" TC ferrules for my 2 electric elements onto the back of the kettle, and then add a single ferrule to the top of the kettle for the steam-reducing device others on this forum have built. But I still need a port to 'whirlpool' and a port to return the wort while mashing (I plan on recirculating). I have Spin Cycle arm on another kettle, but have been underwhelmed by its performance.
Any help (or pictures!) would be great.
Thanks

 

[MX1]

Best thing to do is map your brew day, develop a process flow diagram.

Set you kettle up where you will brew, get all the things you need to connect to your pot where they will go, and do a trial run. use tape and string or rope in place of your tubing. Get a feel of how you are going to brew.

My best kettle design works for me, because it designed around my brew day, brew style, and brew equipment.

Think about what you need,and what you want.

Need holes for elements: where to put them? are the power cables going to get in the way of other points of attachment.
Need wort out and wort in: can you dual purpose the wort in and have it as a whirlpool as well? Do both need flow control (valves) if so do they interfere with other points of attachment?

Want a thermometer- how does it interact with the other needs?

See where I am going?

these are just some of the things I had to think through when I built any of the 3 brew systems I have put together on my own.
Only to have someone else brew on my rig and ask why I did what I did - because it supports how I brew.....not how you brew....lol

best of luck

MX1

 

[Bobby_M]

Underwhelmed by the spincycle? How dare you. Just kidding but I am curious what's going on because we've sold 1000 of them and people rave about it. I prefer the submerge version.

 

[butterblum]

Underwhelmed by the spincycle? How dare you. Just kidding but I am curious what's going on because we've sold 1000 of them and people rave about it. I prefer the submerge version.

Bobby, I had it working during a test run with water, but it seemed a lot different during an actual brew. I was super surprised by the lack of a trub cone at the bottom of my kettle - maybe it's just operator error.
Do you know of any way to incorporate the non-submerged version into a TC fitting that I can use after the boil is finished? I would like to use the steam-capture gadget that Brundog designed during the boil, and then switch it out for a whirlpool arm after. If using the submerged version, do you just need a shut off valve on the outside of the kettle to keep it from spilling everywhere?
What is the ideal height for the actual return of the wort in the kettle?
Also, has anyone had better success with the Spin Cycle by slightly pinching the end to increase flow velocity?
Thanks

 

[cooper]

I have the SpinCycle and I love it when I'm using an immersion chiller. It creates a huge cone of hop debris and trub in the middle of the kettle.

However, when I try to use it with a CFC the performance is hugely lacking as the pump has to push everything through the CFC and it just doesnt have much left to get as good of a whirlpool going. That's definitely not the fault of the SpinCycle though.

 

[MX1]

I have the SpinCycle and I love it when I'm using an immersion chiller. It creates a huge cone of hop debris and trub in the middle of the kettle.

However, when I try to use it with a CFC the performance is hugely lacking as the pump has to push everything through the CFC and it just doesnt have much left to get as good of a whirlpool going. That's definitely not the fault of the SpinCycle though.

Does the Spin Cycle help cut cooling times with the IC , that you have noticed. I am in the process of going back to basics and might ditch my plate chiller

 

[cooper]

I think it really helps for cooling during whirlpooling. It took my last batch down from boiling to 160F in just a couple of minutes just because it does a great job at keeping the wort moving over the coils. I like it better than using the CFC for sure especially when I have half a pound of hops in the kettle.

I think I'd still use the CFC as long as I was only using an oz or two of hops and didnt need to worry about getting a good whirlpool prior to moving to the fermenter.

 

[MX1]

I am not impressed with my plate chiller at all.....need to do some research into IC with boil coils.....

Now, lets get this topic back on track.....

@butterblum

Any luck on building?

MX1

 

[butterblum]

Any luck on building?

MX1

I have not ordered anything yet. I am trying to figure out if I can make the SpinCycle removable - that way I can use the upper 1.5" TC fitting for 1) recirculating the mash, then 2) the steam-condensing device during the boil, and then 3) the SpinCycle arm for whirlpooling.
I was thinking about buying this to see if it would work - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15f12nptdouble.htm
Don't know if that will stick far enough into the pot to clear the inner wall.

Still haven't bought any electrical controls either - I plan on using two separate 120V circuits to power two elements. The second 120V supply will be controlled by a contactor tied into the first 120V supply - if the first ever trips, the second will also cut off.

 

[MX1]

Send Bobby an email at BHardware and let him know what you want to do

 

[butterblum]

Send Bobby an email at BHardware and let him know what you want to do

Already did.
They must be really behind, because I haven't heard back from him.

 

[MX1]

you have a link to your kettle

 

[butterblum]

you have a link to your kettle

https://www.homebrewing.org/10-Gallon-1-Weld-Volume-Marked-Brew-Pot_p_6065.html

 

[MX1]

https://www.homebrewing.org/10-Gallon-1-Weld-Volume-Marked-Brew-Pot_p_6065.html

thanks,i will try and help with the OG question tomorrow

 

[MX1]

This is just an idea

 

[butterblum]

@MX1 thanks for the reply.
My plans were similar to your layout, except that I think I can get away with my mash return, steam condenser, and whirlpool arm all utilizing the same 1.5" TC port, since none of them are needed at the same time.

 

[MX1]

I think you might be able to as well, depends on how far the project into the pot, more of an issue if you have a basket and not just a bag

 

[butterblum]

Yeah, I'm planning on bag only for now.

 

[Bobby_M]

I do often get more emails than I can handle. I wish I could clone myself or find an existing "close enough" guy. I'm not crazy about side mounting a re-circulation port because the bag has to dip around it. I recirc back into the lid. I don't think the double ended TC is the answer because the fittings probably won't get through the TC port. I could probably fabricate a TC with a silver soldered SS tube.

For me, I'd go with the spincycle submerge. It works perfectly.

 

[Wagon_6]

@MX1 thanks for the reply.
My plans were similar to your layout, except that I think I can get away with my mash return, steam condenser, and whirlpool arm all utilizing the same 1.5" TC port, since none of them are needed at the same time.

This is exactly what I’m thinking while designing my basement brewery. I wonder if a hole could be sewn into the mash bag to fit a mash return through it.

 

[MX1]

Mine was just like that, when I had my bag made they left a slit for me to pull around my return