Best Economical Element and Controller

[RobbieOByrne]

Hello, I’m building a 15 gallon BIABasket electric brew system and I want to make sure I have the best economical choice for electric side. I'm looking for a Electric 240v 30a element and controller. Thanks for all the advice and help!

 

[Warren Boese]

Hey I went with this element from Brew Hardware, and this inexpensive controller idea from StillDragon. It's all wired through a spa panel gfci for safety, cheap and works a treat!

 

[biertourist]

I HIGHLY recommend the BrewHardware stainless elements. (I have 2 of the Camco elements and one BrewersHardware Stainless, but the base rusts horribly over time on the CAMCOs; they should not be considered "brewing grade" elements.(fine for a water heater, I guess...)

If I could find an element with a stainless base and an incolonel element, that would be perfect, IMHO, because the incolonel alloy resists fouling and I find it easier to clean that 300 series stainless.

I also use the Still Dragon element guard, but my complaint is the small plastic strain relief -it doesn't fit standard thick jacketed 10-3 electric wire and I'd just prefer a stainless strain relief.

-Again, don't go cheap on the element -penny wise, pound foolish.


Adam

 

[biertourist]

If you want to go cheap on the controller, find a simple PJ diagram and wire one yourself. A smallish plastic control panel will get the job done. Chinese PID controllers work fine and most of the "US" branded ones are just rebranded Chinese one with better manuals and support, anyway.

Oversize your SSR, DO use a heat-sink, and I'd consider using a small 120v fan to cool the heatsink as the lifetime of the SSR is related to how hot it gets. -All recommendations I've settled on from doing it wrong the first time, myself.

Don't cheap out on the main power in connector, nor the power out to the elements (Use NEMA plugs like Kal @ Theelectricbrewery.com recommends). If you go cheap here you just have huge reliability and safety issues that create fires and blowup stuff. (Trust me, I was an early adopter of the "Switch Craft" connector craze and trying to use high voltage speaker connectors in electric breweries- don't do that to yourself.)

It's also cheaper for some inexplicable reason, to just buy a HomeDepot SPA panel box with an integrated GFCI breaker than it is to just buy a GFCI breaker for your house breaker box (if your batch size is going to require you to go with 240v power).


Adam

 

[no-body]

There are a controllers on Amazon from a few different manufactures. Does anyone have any opinions of them?

 

[doug293cz]

There are a controllers on Amazon from a few different manufactures. Does anyone have any opinions of them?

What controllers specifically are you interested in.

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

Hello, I’m building a 15 gallon BIABasket electric brew system and I want to make sure I have the best economical choice for electric side. I'm looking for a Electric 240v 30a element and controller. Thanks for all the advice and help!

What functions do you want the controller to have? Do you just want to adjust heat output from the element (like adjusting the flame on a propane burner) or do you want it to be able to heat your strike water to temp and hold, and then be adjustable power for the boil? Do you need to control a pump? Do you want alarms (over temp, under temp, etc.)?

Brew on

 

[RobbieOByrne]

What functions do you want the controller to have? Do you just want to adjust heat output from the element (like adjusting the flame on a propane burner) or do you want it to be able to heat your strike water to temp and hold, and then be adjustable power for the boil? Do you need to control a pump? Do you want alarms (over temp, under temp, etc.)?

I plan on going full electric with a 240v rod. I want the system to work with 15 gal set and 30 gal set in the future. The first and most important thing I desire is the ability to hold a temperature in my mash and adjust it to any temperature I desire. Secondly I will want it to boil the wort in my tank. The bells and whistles look cool but are not necessary.

Since I've been going down this rabbit hole I have seen some cool stuff that sounds nice but isn't practical, like the ability to chart out my brew day and see where temperatures or other things affected the brew day. I find myself thinking of the future and what that might be.

 

[no-body]

What controllers specifically are you interested in.

Brew on

A boil controller but I don't want to build my own. I just want to plug it in and use it once a month. We had the washer and dryer relocated from the garage to a spare bedroom and the dryer outlet in the garage is still live.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

I built a simple 240 controller with help from the forum. I went simple without the bells and whistles and still dont feel the need for anything more. You could build a controller in a couple hours. Theres not much to it really. The pid holds the temp.

PID - Mypin TD4 Amazon ($33)
SSR- Crydom 40 amp SSR Ebay ($20 ish)
Heatsink Ebay- $20 ish
Lightswitch to turn power off to element while still having power on controller ( $15 ish)
5500W element Amazon Home Depot ETC

I dont feel the need for any alarms. I dont even keep the power on during the mash anymore. Get the temp to 154, dump grain. cover pot and kill power It only drops a few degrees over an hour. No big deal and I never need to worry about an overshoot in temps...simple works

 

[doug293cz]

A boil controller but I don't want to build my own. I just want to plug it in and use it once a month. We had the washer and dryer relocated from the garage to a spare bedroom and the dryer outlet in the garage is still live.

Sorry, I may not have been clear enough. I was expecting links to the controllers on which you wanted opinions.

Brew on

 

[no-body]

I really don't know which one to buy. But I shop on Amazon all the time and I love their 2 day shopping. I'll post a link to everything they sell.

 

[doug293cz]

I built a simple 240 controller with help from the forum. I went simple without the bells and whistles and still dont feel the need for anything more. You could build a controller in a couple hours. Theres not much to it really. The pid holds the temp.

PID - Mypin TD4 Amazon ($33)
SSR- Crydom 40 amp SSR Ebay ($20 ish)
Heatsink Ebay- $20 ish
Lightswitch to turn power off to element while still having power on controller ( $15 ish)
5500W element Amazon Home Depot ETC

I dont feel the need for any alarms. I dont even keep the power on during the mash anymore. Get the temp to 154, dump grain. cover pot and kill power It only drops a few degrees over an hour. No big deal and I never need to worry about an overshoot in temps...simple works

Jonny's controller probably looks a lot like this (there are several choices for PID's and SSR's - but avoid Fotek, as they have a terrible reputation for reliability.) You do need a PID that has a manual power setting mode (MyPin TD4 works, MyPin TA4 does not), my preference is for the Auber DSRPxxx series of EZBoils.

Brew on

 

[no-body]

I found several on Amazon but I can't figure out how to post a link on this phone. I searched for beer boil controller.

 

[doug293cz]

I plan on going full electric with a 240v rod. I want the system to work with 15 gal set and 30 gal set in the future. The first and most important thing I desire is the ability to hold a temperature in my mash and adjust it to any temperature I desire. Secondly I will want it to boil the wort in my tank. The bells and whistles look cool but are not necessary.

Since I've been going down this rabbit hole I have seen some cool stuff that sounds nice but isn't practical, like the ability to chart out my brew day and see where temperatures or other things affected the brew day. I find myself thinking of the future and what that might be.

Are you looking at a one vessel (BIAB), two vessel (MLT & HLT/BK), or three vessel (HLT, MLT, BK) system? RIMS, HERMS, or direct heat for mash temp control? Will you want to run multiple elements at the same time?

Brew on

 

[doug293cz]

I found several on Amazon but I can't figure out how to post a link on this phone. I searched for beer boil controller.

Of the ones that show up with those search terms, this one looks like it meets your requirements. Without seeing a teardown, I can't vouch for the safety of the design.

Brew on

 

[RobbieOByrne]

Are you looking at a one vessel (BIAB), two vessel (MLT & HLT/BK), or three vessel (HLT, MLT, BK) system? RIMS, HERMS, or direct heat for mash temp control? Will you want to run multiple elements at the same time?

Right now I will be doing one vessel BIAB, in a year possibly two BIAB's at the same time. I have not figured out exactly what the differences besides process in all the procedures. It seems like recirculating direct heat, rims and herms pretty much do the same thing with little to no difference especially when electric temp control is in place. As of right now one element, but in the future possibly two or more.

 

[doug293cz]

Right now I will be doing one vessel BIAB, in a year possibly two BIAB's at the same time. I have not figured out exactly what the differences besides process in all the procedures. It seems like recirculating direct heat, rims and herms pretty much do the same thing with little to no difference especially when electric temp control is in place. As of right now one element, but in the future possibly two or more.

For the size batches you are talking about, you'll want 5500W elements, which draw 23A. So, to run one element, you will need to have a 30A GFCI protected feed circuit. Two run two elements simultaneously, you will need a 50A or 60A GFCI circuit, or two 30A circuits. Probably cheaper to put in one 50/60A circuit than two 30A circuits. If you plan to add heat during the mash, you should recirculate, which will require the addition of a pump. You could build one 30A panel now and another later, or you could start with a 50/60A panel design, and only put in enough of the components to run one element to start.
Lotta possibilities, but it's up to you to choose how you want to proceed, and then go with an appropriate control panel design.

Brew on

 

[no-body]

Thanks, at least your link works. I already have a 6 gallon aluminum pot with a heating element I bought from a friend. He upgraded to a 10 gallon stainless steel pot from Amazon.

 

[no-body]

I looked and the plug on this one even matches my dryer outlet.

 

[RobbieOByrne]

For the size batches you are talking about, you'll want 5500W elements, which draw 23A. So, to run one element, you will need to have a 30A GFCI protected feed circuit. Two run two elements simultaneously, you will need a 50A or 60A GFCI circuit, or two 30A circuits. Probably cheaper to put in one 50/60A circuit than two 30A circuits. If you plan to add heat during the mash, you should recirculate, which will require the addition of a pump. You could build one 30A panel now and another later, or you could start with a 50/60A panel design, and only put in enough of the components to run one element to start.
Lotta possibilities, but it's up to you to choose how you want to proceed, and then go with an appropriate control panel design.

Thank you for the info. How many gallons do you think I could go with a single 30a 5500w? I saw this one from Ebrewsupply DIY for $375. I'm leaning heavily on purchasing it. https://ebrewsupply.com/collections/complete-diy/products/complete-30a-biab-kit

 

[doug293cz]

.

Thank you for the info. How many gallons do you think I could go with a single 30a 5500w? I saw this one from Ebrewsupply DIY for $375. I'm leaning heavily on purchasing it. https://ebrewsupply.com/collections/complete-diy/products/complete-30a-biab-kit

People boil 7-8 gal with 1650W elements, but it takes a loooong time to heat up. So, you could boil 20 - 25 gal with a 5500W element. The more volume, the longer it will take to get to a boil.

Brew on

 

[no-body]

I looked and the plug on this one even matches my dryer outlet.

I did some looking around and this company builds lots of stuff! Too bad I can only afford to buy a boil controller.

http://brew-control.com/wordpress1/

Of the ones that show up with those search terms, this one looks like it meets your requirements. Without seeing a teardown, I can't vouch for the safety of the design.

Brew on

I did some looking around and this company builds lots of neat stuff! Too bad I can only afford to buy a boil controller. I think I'll order one two weeks from Friday.

http://brew-control.com/wordpress1/

 

[augiedoggy]

I HIGHLY recommend the BrewHardware stainless elements. (I have 2 of the Camco elements and one BrewersHardware Stainless, but the base rusts horribly over time on the CAMCOs; they should not be considered "brewing grade" elements.(fine for a water heater, I guess...)

If I could find an element with a stainless base and an incolonel element, that would be perfect, IMHO, because the incolonel alloy resists fouling and I find it easier to clean that 300 series stainless.

I also use the Still Dragon element guard, but my complaint is the small plastic strain relief -it doesn't fit standard thick jacketed 10-3 electric wire and I'd just prefer a stainless strain relief.

-Again, don't go cheap on the element -penny wise, pound foolish.


Adam

Camco makes a stainless based version of the elements as well.(Bobby has them) The ones they sell for water heaters have the zinc plated steel base that rusts.
I went from camco elements to "cheap" stainless and even TC based ones and no issues with any yet.. some are 5 years old. they are all made in china.. I havent seen any evidence to show one is better than another, just that some cost more through more local distributors than those bought direct.. I'm open to be proven wrong on this though.. I bought 12 CE certified TC based 5500w ripples from yuling on alibaba and they all still work fine. although the oldest is only 2 years old now.
I do agree the incolony elements seem to be better but not common.

 

[no-body]

That explains why the base of the element in the pot I bought from my friend is rusty but the element isn't rusty. The rust doesn't seem too bad but there's a streak running down that won't scrub off the inside. The element itself is black and my friend said it's 4500 Watts. Can anyone send a link to a replacement with a stainless steel base? 4500 or 5500 will work.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Brewhardware.com

https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1902.htm

 

[no-body]

Thanks, does he sell on Amazon or does anyone else sell the same parts on Amazon? I reached the point where I've been burned so bad by small online stores that I started buying everything from Amazon Prime. Sometimes I pay a little more but at least the stuff is here when it's supposed to be here.

 

[kh54s10]

Thanks, does he sell on Amazon or does anyone else sell the same parts on Amazon? I reached the point where I've been burned so bad by small online stores that I started buying everything from Amazon Prime. Sometimes I pay a little more but at least the stuff is here when it's supposed to be here.

I don't think Bobby sells on Amazon and I can't vouch for many online stores but I will for Brewhardware. It is one of the best.

Actually I have gotten wrong shipments more from Amazon than I have going to individual online stores. From memory 3 with Amazon and only one with individual stores.

 

[wilserbrewer]

If you get burned by Bobby you will be the first....buy with confidence my friend. Word travels fast in this community and all I have ever heard is praise.

While you may find something on amazon, I would be more concerned that it has not been scrutinized by Bobby’s watchful eye for QC or other issues. He will get you the right product promptly at a fair price.

 

[no-body]

If you get burned by Bobby you will be the first....buy with confidence my friend. Word travels fast in this community and all I have ever heard is praise.

While you may find something on amazon, I would be more concerned that it has not been scrutinized by Bobby’s watchful eye for QC or other issues. He will get you the right product promptly at a fair price.

Thanks, I'm not trying to bash anyone especially supporters of this group but I think I will buy from Amazon Prime.

 

[Bobby_M]

Thanks, I'm not trying to bash anyone especially supporters of this group but I think I will buy from Amazon Prime.

I won't take it personally but try asking the Amazon prime machine some brewing questions and see if you'd be happy if they were the only source for brewing gear in the future. Report back.

 

[JONNYROTTEN]

Agree with the others.I've never heard a bad thing About Brewhardware. I've bought a few things without issue

 

[no-body]

I won't take it personally but try asking the Amazon prime machine some brewing questions and see if you'd be happy if they were the only source for brewing gear in the future. Report back.

I shop at Amazon Prime because they saved me 100's of dollars at the beginning of the school year and almost $1000 dollars at Christmas.

 

[RobbieOByrne]

Trying to figure out how to build Brewershardware RIMs

 

[no-body]

Looks like I found a stainless steel element to replace the one I have with a rusted base, and it's only $21.99 through Amazon Prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016DB081K/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Next, I have a small rust streak running down the inside of my pot. The pot is aluminum. Does anyone know of a good way to clean off the streak? The friend I bought the pot from said he ignored it but I'll have the element disassembled anyways and would like to clean it off.

 

[kh54s10]

You could try Bar Keeper's Friend. Or an abrasive cleaner. You will have to boil water in it afterward to re-passivate the metal.

Or just clean it as normal and not worry about a rust streak.

 

[mongoose33]

Thanks, does he sell on Amazon or does anyone else sell the same parts on Amazon? I reached the point where I've been burned so bad by small online stores that I started buying everything from Amazon Prime. Sometimes I pay a little more but at least the stuff is here when it's supposed to be here.

You aren't going to be burned by him. I just checked because I was curious; I have placed 15 orders with him over the last 2+ years.

Know how many times I've gotten burned? Yeah. That's why I have placed 15 orders with him.

Further, he stands behind his stuff--even when a mistake wasn't his fault. I put on my Christmas list a couple years ago a spunding valve or some such, but when I sent the link to my family I just let the default be the choice--which wasn't the right connection.

I called to inquire why I got the wrong thing, when it became apparent the fault was with me, not with Bobby. I was ready for another order and Bobby said to include in the comment section that I needed a different connector and he'd include it.

Again: it wasn't his fault, it was mine. And yet he wanted his customer to be happy. What a weird philosophy!

In the end, I just ordered the new connector and paid for it, and tossed the other in my parts box; I wasn't going to have him incur a cost because I made a mistake.

I've spoken to him a couple times on the phone to ensure I was getting the right thing, it all went swimmingly. The guy knows what he is about.

********

There's another side to this: Bobby's stuff is really good. His weldless bulkhead ports are stunningly good. Just as solid as welded and they don't leak.

So...if you're worried about whether this particular vendor is reliable, or supplied quality merchandise, worry not. Maybe--maybe--you can get some things more cheaply on Amazon, but you never quite know what the quality is. And yeah, maybe it comes faster from Amazon, and if that's your criterion for a successful transaction, so be it.

I'm tempted to go and add up the dollar value of all the transactions I've had with Bobby, but maybe not. I don't think I want to know.

And FWIW, you just reminded me I need some Camlock connectors. Have to start building an order. Again. #16.

 

[passedpawn]

I also use the Still Dragon element guard, but my complaint is the small plastic strain relief -it doesn't fit standard thick jacketed 10-3 electric wire and I'd just prefer a stainless strain relief.

I replaced their crappy plastic glands with bigger stainless steel ones from Amazon. Need to ream out the hole in the enclosure to slightly larger diameter, but it worked great in the end.

PG21 was the correct size.

[edit] I just fixed this post. I previously said that PG16 was the correct size. That was all wrong.

 

[passedpawn]

^^ haha, just read the rest of thread. I've been around here a while and I 100% stand behind Bobby with no reservations.

 

[brewbama]

Trying to figure out how to build Brewershardware RIMs

Call Bobby. He’ll walk you thru it. I ordered this https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/rims12_cam.htm with TC element https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/element1650_tc.htm. I like the clean look.

There are elements on Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078M7SD3B/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WPG79T/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I bought this controller https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tempcontrol_ipb16.htm Unfortunately, the temp probe didn’t last long so I replaced it with this one again for the clean look https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com...amp-temperature-probe-with-1-5-flange-diy-kit but used a 3.5 mm stereo plug to use with the Inkbird.