Beginner extract brewing howto

[Pyg]

Another Noob question:
Hen brewing extract is there a set amount of extract in Lbs that is required.
I have read a recipe for a cream ale, by 3 different companies.
Each used a different amount of DME.
DME & LME combined:
5lbs
5 1/2 lbs
6lbs

Just confused as neither of these recipes uses grain, but they all vary in extract

 

[Capn_Bill]

Not all cream ale, IPA, lager, etc, recipes will be the same.

Extract is essentially malt sugar, which the yeast will consume to produce carbon dioxide, alcohol, and other compounds that give beer it's flavor.

The more extract, the higher the ABV will be. But, LME and DME are not equal in terms of amount of fermentables by weight. Liquid Malt Extract contains water, so you will need more LME by weight compared to DME to get the same amount of fermentables.

You don't have to use both LME and DME, per se, but there's nothing wrong with doing that. You can use one of the other, but of course there are different varieties (light, gold, etc). LME has a shorter shelf life than DME, so be sure to check freshness dates when purchasing.

Cream ales is probably a basic enough style that it doesn't need any steeping grains to add different caramel, bready, roasted, or nutty flavors.

John Palmer's How to Brew is a great resource, and free online. http://www.howtobrew.com/

Another Noob question:
Hen brewing extract is there a set amount of extract in Lbs that is required.
I have read a recipe for a cream ale, by 3 different companies.
Each used a different amount of DME.
DME & LME combined:
5lbs
5 1/2 lbs
6lbs

Just confused as neither of these recipes uses grain, but they all vary in extract

 

[lazarwolf]

If you want to add steeping grains,
flaked corn and flaked rice are good choices for a cream ale.
Cream ale is my house draft.
I make it with extract and all grain. Depends on my available time.
I always steep
1 lbs. Flaked corn
.5 flaked rice (or minute rice)

 

[ecobb]

Am I correct in the assumption that it is nearly impossible to get an accurate OG reading using extract kits and top off water? It's always either too high or way too low. Should I just use an extract calculator to estimate my OG or go off the sites predicted OG?

 

[lazarwolf]

It's not impossible, but it can be tricky to get a pre-boil OG in order to determine efficiency when partial mashing or using extract. Here's the real question, who cares? I dont mean that flippantly. But there is way too much focus on Brew house efficiency. The efficiency argument is the new "Extract Vrs. All grain argument". or the pellet vrs fresh hops argument from the 1990s. (yes that was a real thing.) Here's the good news. It doesn't matter. The OG post boil can be easily measured, and the final SG can be measured. The only thing that really matters is the taste. Ive had some amazing beers made by BIAB brewers who have terrible efficiency. If you have the OG post boil, and the final gravity, you can calculate the ABV.

 

[ncbrewer]

Am I correct in the assumption that it is nearly impossible to get an accurate OG reading using extract kits and top off water? It's always either too high or way too low. Should I just use an extract calculator to estimate my OG or go off the sites predicted OG?

You could stir and then check gravity. If it doesn't match what is calculated, stir some more and check again. Repeat as necessary until it matches. Or you could just use the calculated number and not bother to sample - also less chance of contamination. I never check OG any more when doing extract batches.

 

[Tpwcmbb40]

New to the forum. New to brewing. I'm almost two weeks into secondary in a 5 gallon glass carboy after two weeks in a 6 gallon. I'm concerned because I check it today and it looks like this...any idea what the problem is or if it's still any good?

 

[ecobb]

New to the forum. New to brewing. I'm almost two weeks into secondary in a 5 gallon glass carboy after two weeks in a 6 gallon. I'm concerned because I check it today and it looks like this...any idea what the problem is or if it's still any good?

Two weeks into secondary and you've still got the foam on top? Did you just dry hop? How does it smell/taste? What's the gravity reading?

 

[Capn_Bill]

New to the forum. New to brewing. I'm almost two weeks into secondary in a 5 gallon glass carboy after two weeks in a 6 gallon. I'm concerned because I check it today and it looks like this...any idea what the problem is or if it's still any good?

Did you check the gravity with a hydrometer before you transferred it to secondary? Looks like it's still fermenting. Have you been keeping it at a steady temperature? If its too cold for the yeast, they may slow down or go dormant, but re-start if it gets warmer. Typical ale yeasts like 65-70 deg F.

Regardless, it looks fine to me. Check the specific gravity with a hydrometer against the recipe a couple days apart to make sure its not going down anymore and it's done fermenting. Taste the sample. After 4 total weeks, I would think it's done if it's just a typical moderate ABV ale recipe (1.015ish, I would guess, but check what the recipe says). But always make sure it's done fermenting to prevent creating bottle bombs.

 

[zxfczxfg]

While steeping grains in a grain bag, the bag generally lies at the bottom of the pot, correct? Isn't there a danger of the bag burning?

 

[wdprice3]

Tie it off on the pot handle or a heat resistant spoon across the pot to keep it off the bottom.

 

[hxzfh]

While steeping grains in a grain bag, the bag generally lies at the bottom of the pot, correct? Isn't there a danger of the bag burning?

 

[lazarwolf]

While steeping grains in a grain bag, the bag generally lies at the bottom of the pot, correct? Isn't there a danger of the bag burning?

Yes there is. You should probably tie it off to the handle on your kettle. or clip it to the side.

 

[Capn_Bill]

While steeping grains in a grain bag, the bag generally lies at the bottom of the pot, correct? Isn't there a danger of the bag burning?

FWIW, I've done a handful of extract brews with steeping grains and haven't tied the bag to anything or burnt anything. You're only heating to 170F and taking the bag out. I usually would stir every so often, though. But wouldn't hurt to tie the bag off the bottom.

 

[unionrdr]

I do PM with my nylon bag & it dosen't get hot enough to melt with the water surrounding it.

 

[brewmesomewater]

Tying the bag isn't essential if your stirring and keeping the bag off thr bottom. Using a thermometer is more important, steeping at 170 can release enzymes that cause the beer to taste bitter and alter the clarity. Typically you want to steep in the 153-156 range moving the pot on and off the burner keeping that ideal temp.

 

[unionrdr]

To be precise, 170F mash/steep temp can release tannins from the grain hulls they used to say. Now they're starting to say it's PH from increasing water amounts? I like to keep my mash temps between 152-156F.

 

[Bmore2Eazy]

View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1426902290.574294.jpg. White House Honey Brew, 1st attempt of a 5gal batch, taste pretty good!

 

[zfhzxfgh]

While steeping grains in a grain bag, the bag generally lies at the bottom of the pot, correct? Isn't there a danger of the bag burning?

 

[unionrdr]

Not in my experiences. The water in the kettle seems to prevent it from melting.

 

[rjolin01]

View attachment 265282. White House Honey Brew, 1st attempt of a 5gal batch, taste pretty good!

Is that the porter? I am about to bottle the ale and it's not that dark. Maybe it's the pic or the dark brown couch in the back.

 

[rjolin01]

Sorry double post

 

[xghfy]

Well, I'm a noob too so bare with me. The process for them is the same but with a Partial Mash you are actually using base grains to convert starches to sugars just like an All Grain method but are using a smaller bill of gains and using less extract to makeup the rest of the wort.

 

[vondetour]

An one more noob to deal with,I have been reading for two days and found what looks like a good deal over at homebrewheaven a 1 Gallon Beer Brewing Kit that comes with i hope every thing except bottles and Ingredient for $44 and is $54 with Ingredients.was going to get the Flip-top style bottles,so would this be a good first time kit,

 

[vondetour]

One more question,after reading most of yesterday I found M.r Beer kit to brew hefeweizen.could I use a SS pot to cook the ingredients then rather than using a bucket or Carboy to ferment in could i use a Reusable Polycarbonate Water Bottle and after fermentation could I use a bottle with spigot to store the finished beer.

 

[ncbrewer]

Vondetour: I read an article in Wine Maker magazine a few years ago that discussed BPA in some potential fermenters. According to the article, you shouldn't use anything with a recycling code of 7. It also warned against using blue tinted water jugs from the hardware store because they're usually made of polycarbonate, which has BPA and isn't suitable for fermented beverages.

 

[brewshki]

gotta hate when you get spooked again about bottle bombs and have to wait another day to bottle. my SG is sitting at 1.016 from an OG of 1.063 and my plan was to bottle today. normally i get my beers down to 1.010. guess i really don't want glass everywhere...


also a way bigger deal when you only brew 2 gallon batches

 

[vondetour]

ncbrewer_ thanks I finely got smart and looked in craigslist and found a glass carboys for $15,I also saw a M.r beer cheap and thought about a 5 gl. Igloo Cooler and Googled it.this is what i saw http://www.homebrewing.org/5-Gallon-Converted-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-with-False-Bottom-_p_1005.html and I have one in my garage with the triangle 1 on the bottom,all i need is a brass valve and I could start brewing.

 

[lazarwolf]

Vondetour: I read an article in Wine Maker magazine a few years ago that discussed BPA in some potential fermenters. According to the article, you shouldn't use anything with a recycling code of 7. It also warned against using blue tinted water jugs from the hardware store because they're usually made of polycarbonate, which has BPA and isn't suitable for fermented beverages.

Water bottles are just fine for beer fermentation. Thousands of home brewers use them with no problems.

 

[lazarwolf]

Mr beer fermenters are great. The products have improved. But you can easily brew a 2 gallon biab on your stove top, so I never use them. I do use the fermenter. It's perfect for lagers. Fits easily in the fridge.

 

[brewshki]

I use the fermenter all the time but buy ingredients from more beer

 

[vondetour]

Been wondering what the total cost would be for brewing beer after initial start up cost for equipment.ingredients are about $25-30 for 5 gallons of beer.So 5 gl=640 oz or 53 12 oz bottles @.56 cents per bottle.But what about gas,how much does it cost to heat 5 gallons of water and cook that batch.I found If the incoming water is 60°F and we want to raise it to 123°F, that's a 63°F rise.Heating a gallon of water thus requires 8.33 x 63 = 525 Btu's, at 100% efficiency.A typical gas tank water heater is only 59% efficient. So it takes 525 ÷ 59% = 890 Btu's to heat a gallon of water in a gas tank.
One therm is 100,000 btu's. So one Btu is 0.00001 therms. (Pacific NW Natl. Lab.)
890 Btu's is 0.0089 therms.
So we've got 0.0089 therms to heat a gallon of water, or 0.0089 x 40 = 0.356 therms to heat a 40-gallon tank.
At $1.42/therm, it costs 0.356 x $1.42 = $0.51 to heat a 40-gallon tank.
Another source comes up with a similar figure: 0.40 therms for the tank (based on 0.11 therms to heat 11 gallons of water. (Multi-housing Laundry Association)
MHLA also says it takes 3.3 therms to keep 11 gallons hot for one month.
yeah my geek is showing but using this equation to calculate btu for 5 gallons of water I now know it will cost me about $0.62-73 to cook a 5 gallon batch of beer.

 

[RileyJA]

So it's been a while since I have brewed. I let my beer cool to room temperature
overnight before I pitched the yeast. I started seeing activity after about 30 hours. It has been 48 hours since and it just doesn't seem to be very vigorous.
I had lost a little of the yeast packet before I pitched. Could that be the problem?
Would it hurt to run to my local brew shop and get some more yeast to add to the fermenter? This was an extract kit. Brewers Best. This kit said DO NOT rehydrate the yeast before pitching.

 

[Yooper]

So it's been a while since I have brewed. I let my beer cool to room temperature
overnight before I pitched the yeast. I started seeing activity after about 30 hours. It has been 48 hours since and it just doesn't seem to be very vigorous.
I had lost a little of the yeast packet before I pitched. Could that be the problem?
Would it hurt to run to my local brew shop and get some more yeast to add to the fermenter? This was an extract kit. Brewers Best. This kit said DO NOT rehydrate the yeast before pitching.

If you're seeing activity, that means the yeast have reproduced and started fermentation so more yeast won't help at this point. It's hard to say why you're not seeing much activity and how you're judging that. By airlock activity? krausen?

Many things contribute to fermentation activity, including temperature. Usually, a slow and steady fermentation is a healthier one than a rapid explosive fermentation that can get too hot. I think it sounds just fine!

 

[RileyJA]

Thanks! I'm soon ready to try my Black IPA!

 

[LTshooby]

Thank you for the article! Saturday, for the first time I brewed two different extract kits with grains - a brown ale (3 different hop additions) and an Irish red (2 different hop additions). Previous to this, my only brew experience is with a Mr. Beer kit. My question is that the airlock on the brown ale is burping and there is almost no solution left in the bubbler! The activity in the fermenter is crazy! It looks like I trapped some kind of animal in there! The Irish is a little slower but starting to move.

Can I add more sanitizer solution to the air lock? I was also told I could add vodka to it.

Thank you!

SueB

 

[King_Coaster]

I am on my second kit, the first (Festa Red Ale) is now in the secondary after 5 days I still get the odd bubble. My second is a Brewhouse Mexican and after mixing it started bubbling in the airlock right away, 2nd day the airlock overflowed twice after the clean up and second overflow I broke the seal on the lid to allow a bit more venting. A couple hours later it had calmed down so I snapped the lid back in place. Day 3 & 4 I have yet to see any bubble activity at all.

Should I be worried? How do I know if it all went bad? It is going into secondary tomorrow Is there some way to tell whether I should keep going or not?

 

[brewprint]

I am on my second kit, the first (Festa Red Ale) is now in the secondary after 5 days I still get the odd bubble. My second is a Brewhouse Mexican and after mixing it started bubbling in the airlock right away, 2nd day the airlock overflowed twice after the clean up and second overflow I broke the seal on the lid to allow a bit more venting. A couple hours later it had calmed down so I snapped the lid back in place. Day 3 & 4 I have yet to see any bubble activity at all.

Should I be worried? How do I know if it all went bad? It is going into secondary tomorrow Is there some way to tell whether I should keep going or not?

First to secondary anything other than to age brews is questionable.

Second; the sure way to tell is to use your hydrometer. Take a sample

Airlock activity means almost nothing. I rarely get any activity for more than a day on my bucket that doesn't have a seal on the lid.

 

[Brian77095]

Welcome to brewing! Don't be worried. If you can take a specific gravity do so when you rack to secondary. After a week or two take another. If you can't then just wait a while longer. My first beer did that. (probably because it was to warm in the closet I had it in).

I think you are fine.

I am on my second kit, the first (Festa Red Ale) is now in the secondary after 5 days I still get the odd bubble. My second is a Brewhouse Mexican and after mixing it started bubbling in the airlock right away, 2nd day the airlock overflowed twice after the clean up and second overflow I broke the seal on the lid to allow a bit more venting. A couple hours later it had calmed down so I snapped the lid back in place. Day 3 & 4 I have yet to see any bubble activity at all.

Should I be worried? How do I know if it all went bad? It is going into secondary tomorrow Is there some way to tell whether I should keep going or not?

 

[pompeiisneaks]

Yup both are great advice. Opening a fermentation container can allow for infection to get it, but it is usually the safest time, during active fermentation, because the yeast is putting off so much CO2 gas at that time. Some brewers ferment in open chambers. You should look up 'blowoff tubes' on some of the forum posts here, its a great way to resolve this kind of active fermentation.

It is often best to just wait it out for 2-3 weeks, then take a hydrometer reading as was suggested, and then if it is attenuated enough, look to transfer to bottles or keg whichever you use. (I almost alwasy just wait 4 weeks and then transfer to my kegs)