Before I drill, Idea for fly sparge

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BrutalBrew

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
344
Reaction score
21
Location
plainfield
Ive coiled my copper for fly sparge build. I was going to start drilling when I thought about how to have adjustable stops to keep coil proper distance to wort depending on different grain amounts for recipes. This is my thought.
If I drill small holes on the TOP side of the coils instead of the drip method. This way I can just sit the coil on top of the grains and the sparge water would fill above the grain line and soak down. My main concern would be channeling where the coil touchs the grain.Has anyone tried this? How does it work? Any thoughts on pros/cons.
 
I have no moving parts , its just a 3/8 coil of copper, coiled to have 3 rings to cover center of grain bed, center and outer (close to sides of cooler).
 
I have no moving parts , its just a 3/8 coil of copper, coiled to have 3 rings to cover center of grain bed, center and outer (close to sides of cooler).

without a picture I cant be sure but I had great success with a 3/8 copper coil I made. It sounds like we have built a very similar contraption. I had a straight piece coming down through a board that bridged the top of my MT and then and elbow at the bottom and then the coil went from the center and coiled outward about 3 rings. I then used a small drill bit on the underside to make a giant sprinkler head that dripped over the grain bed. worked great for 5 gallon and 10 gallon but failed miserably on the 20 gallon I use now. I had to make a bigger one for the 30 gallon blichmann I used as a MT and the water would not flow all the way to the end of the coil unless the flow was turned all the way up and then I sparge all my water in like 10-15 minutes. one problem I did have was grain pieces gettimng stuck in the sprinkler holes when I used as a recirc.
 
here is a youtube link that is basically what ive made. I have NOT drilled any hole yet. Imagine drilling the holes on the top instead of the bottom. Then setting the coil on the grain. The water would flow up above the grain and then settling down to drain through the grain. This way the steams are not going to cause channeling because there not being sprayed in the grain (is my thought at least).heres the link. Mine tappers down as it get to the center also like this one but barely noticeable.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
the one I use is also coiled from the center out. I drilled my holes on the top and rest it on the grain bed like you are thinking. Works great, except watch your flow if you're using a pump. You don't want a 170* sprinkler...
 
built and works great. Recommendations to any who read this wanting to build one.
First go thru and use a 1/8" drill bit to MARK where your holes will be , about 4" apart. DO NOT drill all the way thru with this drill bit. just go until you have a indention for a smaller drill bit. A small drill bit will want to slide off the side of tubing and it will break easy. If you put a starter , the small drill bit will fall in center of pre-creator. After you have the indention's go back with a 1/16" drill bit and GO SLOW , this small of bit will break if to much pressure is put on it and it bends while trying to drill. Having the small indention before the small hole also help with the stream coming out so it spreads out more. TAKE YOUR TIME its worth the results. After your done, test it. If you notice to much water in a area you can always solder a hole closed. Also I had a area that didn't have enough water flow and there was no pipe in area due to coil (next to side of bucket, because mine starts at the side and coils in) I recommend coiling from inside out and use pre-bent elbow at first. If you try to bend it that tight you WILL kink the tubing. The area that didn't have enough water flow I drilled a small hole that sprayed slightly angled to spray towards the area, DON'T make the angle to extreme. A slight angle makes a big difference when spraying the small distance i needed. Finally you want the capped end of the coil to be slightly lower than the beginning hole. Don't over do it , very slight decline. I barely open my valve and the stream hardly shoots up before falling/dripping back into grain bed. It should NOT look like a sprinkler. If it does then you will go thru sparge water way to fast.
 
Back
Top