jwalkermed
Well-Known Member
Cheers from your neighbor (kinda close) in Boerne.
The coolest place in my house in July and August is the basement, at about 70F. I don't have a way to keep wort colder than that. I decided to try this recipe after brewing a Pale Ale with a lot of off flavors and after trying a Hefeweizen at Two Roads Brewery, not far from my house, that was a very nice beer. It was bubbling nicely after 24 hours. I then left for a day and a half and then found the lid to my fermenting bucket about 4 feet away from the bucket. I re-sanitized the bucket lid and bubbler and put them back on. I am hoping that there was enough of a CO2 blanket over the wort to protect if from whatever air it was exposed to. Not much else I can do at this point except proceed and see what I end up with. I haven't ever used a blow off tube and assumed I was ok, since I was using a bucket and not a carboy with a constricted neck, but I guess I was wrong. First explosion like this in about 3 years of brewing.
I am planning on brewing a 1 gallon version to this recipe. I have a couple questions:
- Can I use Safale WB-06 instead of Wyeast 3068? If so should I just pitch 1/2 of the package? If there is a better yeast, let me know. At this point in my brewing career I'm not yet comfortable using liquid yeast.
-I read thru 65 pages of this post. I believe someone mentioned red wheat. Is this preferred over Weyermann German Light (Pale) Wheat Malt? Just want to make sure I get the correct grain.
- Rice hulls.. I am a BIAB brewer. is rice hulls necessary> I know the recipe says "if needed". If it's necessary then I will get some.
I do not want to stray from the original recipe. If using dry yeast will make alot of difference then I'll use liquid and figure it out.
Thanks
Eddie
Finally! 5 attempts and it's perfect! The first was an extract version, my wife's favorite. Next 2 partial mash attempts. Lastly 2 all grain versions, with this last one bordering on phenomenal! I followed eds recipe exactly except I added 2 oz of acid malt. My well h2o is extremely alkaline, so I figured the acid malt would help with mash. All my numbers were an exact match with eds. I kept the fermentation temps between 62F-65F ,then let it go to 75F after 7 days. It's 90 degrees right now and this beer is tasting sooooo good! Pictures to come. Prost!
That's exactly how you pour a hefeweizen
Hey guys this looks like a great recipie and I just ordered the ingredients
One question I have is about the best size starter to make for this beer? I have read that its best to underpitch to stress the yeast to increase the banana/clove character is this what you guys are doing? I believe I read that Edwort used 1/2 cup DME to 16oz water,so just wondering how this size starter would compare to my usual 1.5L starter that is usually about 160g dme to 1600 mls water??
Does starter volume matter if you keep the ratios the same and end up with a 1.030-1.040 gravity starter wort???
sorry for the newb question
Jamie.
I made an extract version
4# breiss dry wheat extract
2# breiss dry pilsen malt extract
6 oz carapils steeped @ 155 for 30 min
1/2 oz hallertau @ 60 min
1/2 oz hallertau @ 15
1liter starter of wyeast 3068
fermented in a 62-64 degree water bath for 14 days
crash cooled and kegged/force carbed @ room temp at 40psi for 20 min 2 days ago
Perfect!
FYI, the pic looks quite a bit lighter than the actual beer.
I'll let those who have brewed this reply to your starter question, but I will say that I plan to brew it in a couple weeks, and since Wyeast 3068 is a smack pack, I'm not planning to make a starter.
I always make a starter with any liquid yeast..there is just not enough in there to be guaranteed to be alive to make me comfortable that I am actually pitching enough without a starter. I also know that my yeast is good beforehand with a starter as well.
Underpitching can keep a beer from being all it can really be.
YMMV
I appreciate the advice, and I know it would probably be better to do so, but I don't have the equipment or space to make starters yet. All my previous brews have been with hydrated dry yeast. Plus, per the Wyeast website, the smack pack is supposed to be the correct amount for beers under 1.060. I'm shooting for 1.052. here are their instructions:
https://www.wyeastlab.com/hb_makingastarter.cfm
So what's the deal with Hallertau hops? I usually use this link to review hop profiles: http://www.homebrewstuff.com/hop-profiles
Per this link, there are five different Hallertau hops. A domestic version, a NZ version, and three different German versions, Hallertauer, Hersbrucker and Mittelfruh. I assume for the most correct style Bavarian hefeweizen that I should use one of the German varieties in this beer. But which one, and why?
Anyone care to share which Hallertau hops you are using in this beer?
Anyone care to share which Hallertau hops you are using in this beer?
I've not been paying attention. I promise to do better the next time.
At 10-13 IBU's, I doubt it matters. Hefeweizen is a yeast driven beer, so any of the German Hallertau varieties should be just fine. If you read through the first pages, EdWort indicates that the IBU's are far more important than the specific variety.
I have used all three german varieties with no discernable variation in hop profile. All about that yeast!
Cool, thanks! Most of the other beers I've made are ALL about the hops, so I didn't realize it wouldn't matter.
My Hallertau hops and Wyeast 3068 arrived yesterday! I will buy my grains this weekend and brew up this beauty one day next week. I've been getting excellent efficiency lately, and want to keep this down in the low 5% ranges, so will back off to 10 pounds of grain.
Q1: Does it make any discernable difference if I do a 60/40 or a 65/35 wheat to pilsner ratio?
Q2: What's the purpose for the 90 min mash? I've never intentionally done more than 60 minutes.
Q3: I assume with pilsner malt that I also need to boil for 90 minutes. Last 90 minute boil I did, I ended up with lower than desired volume due to my kettle being just 9 gallons. Safe starting level is about 7.75 gallons, so I was thinking of pulling off that amount, then putting another gallon into my mash tun while I begin the boil, and topping the kettle back up just before the first hop addition. Good or bad idea? Or should I just top up with straight water? Either way I would run my calcs with a beginning boil volume of 8.5-8.75 gallons.
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