bavarian style hefe to bottles in a week??

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Ken_CT

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I bought a bavarian style Hefeweizen kit from truebrew as I wanted to try working with liquid extract. It's currently in the primary fermenter. The instructions say to bottle after 7 days. After reading alot of advise on this forum I think I'd like to rack to a secondary for 2 weeks and then bottle for 3 weeks before drinking. For a Hefe style beer, is there any downside to keeping it in the fermenters for 3 weeks vs 1 week?
 
I keep my Hefe in the primary 10-14 days then right to keg after a week to carb I start drinking it . Hefe dont need secondary as you want the yeast in the beer








if its been a while in the keg I give it a swirl to get the yeast back in suspension
 
There are alot of "Secondary", "1-2-3" questions today...cant...keep...up :)

So....first thing, now that it is fermenting, throw your kit instructions away or better yet burn them in some right of passage ceremony.

IF you took an original gravity reading then you know where you started and you can take another one in 3-4 weeks to give your self an idea of complete fermentation and educational purposes. If not...wait 3-4 weeks and bottle it. Don't bother with a secondary. MOST beers dont need or benefit from it, especially a Wheat.
 
I keep my Hefe in the primary 10-14 days then right to keg after a week to carb I start drinking it . Hefe dont need secondary as you want the yeast in the beer

There are alot of "Secondary", "1-2-3" questions today...cant...keep...up :)

So....first thing, now that it is fermenting, throw your kit instructions away or better yet burn them in some right of passage ceremony.

IF you took an original gravity reading then you know where you started and you can take another one in 3-4 weeks to give your self an idea of complete fermentation and educational purposes. If not...wait 3-4 weeks and bottle it. Don't bother with a secondary. MOST beers dont need or benefit from it, especially a Wheat.

But MN, isn't a month really two long for a Hefe anyway, aren't they really mean to be drunk young...with yeast in suspension? Wouldn't maybe 2 weeks be preferred over our usual 3-4 weeks?

I can't do wheat beers, so I really don't have any experience with them. Except you al saying drink young....

But yeah what is it today/yesterday with carbing and secondarying questions, and how come they don't notice all the other threads in the beginning section asking the same thing at the same time?????

:confused:
 
I dont think 3-4 is out of line in the interest of safety (i.e. bottle bombs) and not knowing OG-FG, the 3-4 is safe rather than bottle prematurely if fermentation was slow to get starting. I think even at 3-4 weeks there will still be plenty of yeast in that bottle, especially if they pour the wheat correctly. 3/4 pour, swirl, pour the rest. If you know your OG and FG and can confirm fermentation is compete after 2 weeks then yeah, i would agree you could bottle. A Weizen isnt going to benefit from any longer, but I dont necessarily think it is hurt by a 4 week sit.
 
I dont think 3-4 is out of line in the interest of safety (i.e. bottle bombs) and not knowing OG-FG, the 3-4 is safe rather than bottle prematurely if fermentation was slow to get starting. I think even at 3-4 weeks there will still be plenty of yeast in that bottle, especially if they pour the wheat correctly. 3/4 pour, swirl, pour the rest. If you know your OG and FG and can confirm fermentation is compete after 2 weeks then yeah, i would agree you could bottle. A Weizen isnt going to benefit from any longer, but I dont necessarily think it is hurt by a 4 week sit.

3-4 weeks is not out of line, but waiting that long shouldn't be because you are afraid bottle bombs. Fermentation will most likely be done within a week. Using your hydrometer is key. With my wheats, I take a reading at day 10 and then a couple days later. If it is unchanged, it goes to the bottle/keg. I'm drinking that sucker within a month since brewday.
 
3-4 weeks is not out of line, but waiting that long shouldn't be because you are afraid bottle bombs. Fermentation will most likely be done within a week. Using your hydrometer is key. With my wheats, I take a reading at day 10 and then a couple days later. If it is unchanged, it goes to the bottle/keg. I'm drinking that sucker within a month since brewday.

I agree, but the OP didnt mention gravity readings so 4 weeks...2 weeks..eh...no biggie.
 
Let your hydrometer tell you when ALL your beer is done fermenting.

What you decide to do after that is your decision.

I secondary ALL my brews, including my Hefe Weizens.

With a HW I let it clear out a bit before bottling. This allows a lot more yeast to drop out of suspension. If I think the beer got too clear I will add some of the yeast from the secondary back into the bottling bucket to keep the brew cloudy.

Think of it this way: Anything left in the bottom of the secondary does not make it into your bottles. ;)

You follow these simple steps and you and your friends will enjoy your beer much more.
 
I am also working on a bavarian style Hefeweizen. I am shooting for about 1 week in primary and 2 weeks in secondary. I have read the 100's of pros and cons for secondary and know that I don't really need to it for this beer. But I am new and learning my trade, so want to practice doing the transfer etc.

I am sure I read somewhere that you should drink this type of beer within 4-6 weeks of bottling for best flavor.
 
As a wheat beer lover, I'm begging all brewers to please please please stop putting them into "secondaries". It's SUPPOSED to be cloudy and full of yeasty goodness. If you wanted a clear, sweetish beer then make a cream or pils. It makes me sad when when I see a filtered "weizen".
 
As a wheat beer lover, I'm begging all brewers to please please please stop putting them into "secondaries". It's SUPPOSED to be cloudy and full of yeasty goodness. If you wanted a clear, sweetish beer then make a cream or pils. It makes me sad when when I see a filtered "weizen".

I've been drinking Hefe Weizens since Feb 1975...and I don't like Kristall. ;)

I'm not pushing filtered Weizens either, but your advice, being well intended, is just not right.

As I previously mentioned, I secondary ALL my beers.

If you ferment for only a short time there's still tons of yeast left in suspension.

A few days in a secondary will NOT clear the beer entirely. If you think too much yeast falls out of suspension then all you need to do is add some back.

Point is (again) any yeast left in the secondary will not be in your bottle...or glass, but the beer will still be cloudy.

(Added bonus: fewer violent yeast farts...:D)

Yes, no?
 
I secondary almost everything, but my hefeweizens get 14 days in primary then goe straight to bottle. It's one style I prefer to have a lot of bottle sediment to swirl up and I can also usually start drinking it after 2 weeks in the bottle, so any way you slice it it's a quick ready beer, ready to drink at least 3 weeks sooner than most everything else I make.

Everyone's technique will be a little different and there's no right or wrong way really (unless you bottle too early, before fermentation is complete). Use your hydrometer before bottling and you'll be okay.
 
So is 10 days in the primary then straight to a keg a bad thing? Assuming of course, that the hydrometer readings have leveled out.
 
14 days primary and 14 days bottle. I prefer bottle over keg but that's mostly because I like having the satisfaction of watching the yeast swirl in the bottle and I can control how much of it goes into the glass. Just a personal preference.
 
So is 10 days in the primary then straight to a keg a bad thing? Assuming of course, that the hydrometer readings have leveled out.


I like to drink it as soon as possible. Meaning within 3-4 weeks, it starts losing some of it character if its aged longer. And with the right yeast what is going to drop is done dropping by 10-14 days . My last keg had about the same amount of sediment on the bottom as one of my "Clear" beers
 
I also ferment at higher temps than avg (73-74Fish) to get a quick fermentation going and to add a little more of the esters into the beer. I dig the banana flavors, so a moderate amount of esters is cool with me.
 
If you are brewing a Weizen mit Hefe 14 days to bottles should be ok. If you are going for a straight Weizen or Weissbier by all means throw it in a bright (secondary) for a week. It will still be cloudy, you will just drop some of the yeast out. You can always roll the bottle or swirl the last couple of ounces to scrape the yeast of the bottom of the bottle if you plan on going "mit Hefe".
 
I accidentally left my last hefe in the primary for 6 months. I just kicked up a little yeast into the bottling bucket. 4 days later is was pretty carbonated, and still had quite a bit of ester character. I found this really odd. I was fully expecting yeast autolysis, or at the very least the beer to be cleared of all it's esters. It fermented down to 1.000, so it has a rather thin mouth feel, but not nearly as bad as I was expecting.

I would highly recommend NOT taking my course of action above. I haven't truly secondaried a beer in a long time. I'd take the 10 day hydrometer and 14 day hydrometer advice, especially for a recipe you haven't done before.
 
thx for all the responses on this thread. I did take an OG reading so I know where I'm starting from. It was at 1.044 (vs the 1.045-1.049 they claim so I may not have gotten as much of the LME out as I needed, and I made 5 and 1/8th gallon instead of 5 gallons)

From the feedback above, I will ferment in primary for 10 days and then take readings to make sure fermentation has stopped. Then bottle for 2 weeks and try it.

Thx
Ken
 
thx for all the responses on this thread. I did take an OG reading so I know where I'm starting from. It was at 1.044 (vs the 1.045-1.049 they claim so I may not have gotten as much of the LME out as I needed, and I made 5 and 1/8th gallon instead of 5 gallons)

From the feedback above, I will ferment in primary for 10 days and then take readings to make sure fermentation has stopped. Then bottle for 2 weeks and try it.

Thx
Ken

Hey I just finished a keg of this exact kit. Let me know how yours turns out, It thought mine was a little waterd down tasting and there was more esters/bananna flavor 2 weeks after primary then any time there after. If I were you I would take a gravity reading like you said after 10 days. If it is down to the correct FG, bottle it, and start tasting within a week.
 
Hey I just finished a keg of this exact kit. Let me know how yours turns out, It thought mine was a little waterd down tasting and there was more esters/bananna flavor 2 weeks after primary then any time there after. If I were you I would take a gravity reading like you said after 10 days. If it is down to the correct FG, bottle it, and start tasting within a week.

thx for the feedback, I'll let you know. Truth be told I was a bit disapointed in this kit. The two other kits I've made had specialty grains and smelled amazing when I was brewing them. This kit was kinda meh from that point of view. Hopefully the taste will make up for it.
 
thx for the feedback, I'll let you know. Truth be told I was a bit disapointed in this kit. The two other kits I've made had specialty grains and smelled amazing when I was brewing them. This kit was kinda meh from that point of view. Hopefully the taste will make up for it.

I wouldn't be looking to be disappointed. Hefeweizens are very simple beers. Wheat, pilsner, noble hops, and the RIGHT yeast are all you need.
 
A good hefeweizen will clear in the bottle just like any other well made beer. It shouldn't have a big slug of sediment on the bottom and should only become cloudy when you stir up the yeast layer left from bottle conditioning. In competition, you will actually get points off if your HW is cloudy due to chill haze, etc.
 
A good hefeweizen will clear in the bottle just like any other well made beer. It shouldn't have a big slug of sediment on the bottom and should only become cloudy when you stir up the yeast layer left from bottle conditioning. In competition, you will actually get points off if your HW is cloudy due to chill haze, etc.

Wow, who judged that competition? Per the BJCP style guideline the beer should be somewhat hazy even if you do not rouse the yeast. Maybe if it was entered as a Krystall version.
 
Wow, who judged that competition? Per the BJCP style guideline the beer should be somewhat hazy even if you do not rouse the yeast. Maybe if it was entered as a Krystall version.

The point that I was trying to make is not that the yeast will settle out leaving a beer that looks as if it had been filtered. The higher protein level of wheat, for instance, can leave some haze, and that is acceptable. My hefeweizen gets pretty darn clear after a couple of weeks in the fridge.

My point was that the cloudiness of the beer should come primarily from the suspended yeast. Given time, the yeast will settle out leaving a relatively clear beer. That's why bottling hefeweizen is preferable to kegging unless you drink it real fast. You'd have to keep agitating the keg to keep the yeast in suspension.

Hefeweizen is not supposed to be a murky, muddy mixture with a half an inch of sludge on the bottom of the bottle.......unless that's what you like!!
 
thx for the feedback, I'll let you know. Truth be told I was a bit disapointed in this kit. The two other kits I've made had specialty grains and smelled amazing when I was brewing them. This kit was kinda meh from that point of view. Hopefully the taste will make up for it.

I got my kit from my local store and I was thinking exactly the same. It seemed really bland. I am already looking forward to my next batch.
 
Edworts Hefeweizen and Beirmunchers Octoberfast are beers that are always on tap at my home now.

hefe6.JPG
 
The point that I was trying to make is not that the yeast will settle out leaving a beer that looks as if it had been filtered. The higher protein level of wheat, for instance, can leave some haze, and that is acceptable. My hefeweizen gets pretty darn clear after a couple of weeks in the fridge.

My point was that the cloudiness of the beer should come primarily from the suspended yeast. Given time, the yeast will settle out leaving a relatively clear beer. That's why bottling hefeweizen is preferable to kegging unless you drink it real fast. You'd have to keep agitating the keg to keep the yeast in suspension.

Hefeweizen is not supposed to be a murky, muddy mixture with a half an inch of sludge on the bottom of the bottle.......unless that's what you like!!
Goes right the point I was making earlier...:mug:


Hey, springer...not the safest place to set a beer is it? ;)
 
Owned by my company its an ok laptop if it breaks I take a tax writeoff..

Got any good hints on how to destroy a company laptop (by accident)? The problem I'm running into is that the IT warehouse actually has replacement motherboards for these relics (Dell 810), so "accidentally" severing the fan wires, spilling something on the keyboard, or reversing the power source wires won't work.

Maybe a cracked screen......
 
I was lazy and didn't bottle my hefe until 5 weeks in primary. We'll see how it tastes I guess. Might try one tomorrow since it will be a week in bottles then.
 
Got any good hints on how to destroy a company laptop (by accident)? The problem I'm running into is that the IT warehouse actually has replacement motherboards for these relics (Dell 810), so "accidentally" severing the fan wires, spilling something on the keyboard, or reversing the power source wires won't work.

Maybe a cracked screen......

One of my employees left one on the roof of her car .... stopped at a light and wham slid off the roof dented her car and hit the pavement.
 
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