Auber Instruments SYL 2352

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kskiles

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I have a HLT setup using a Auber Instruments SYL-2352 controlling an SSR and a 5500W element.

The rig works to some extent but it does not control the temp very well. I was brewing today and set the desired temp to 170 and left it alone. I came back to it 20 minutes later and the temp was 185 and element was still cycling on/off. Same thing happened as I prepared water for mashout/sparge.

As the temp nears the desired temp, the unit cycles the element more frequently. If the unit reads 190 and the set temp is 180, the element should not even come on.

I have to believe it is a setting in the PID. Anybody have any ideas?
 
It could also be due to the location of the temp probe and stratification of water in the kettle. Are you stirring the water from time to time? Is the temp probe above or below the heating element? Is the probe far enough (at least 2 inches) into the kettle?
 
Are you sure you're running on Auto, and not Manual? It's not too obvious on the display.
 
I will try to get a chance to mess with it in the next day or two. The probe is just slightly below the element. I have stirred it up as it is heating to distribute the heat evenly.

It is probably operating in manual mode as I do not recall messing with that when I set it up a while back. I built this thing about 6 months ago when I decided to go to 10 gal batches and I have only used it 2x. I have experienced the same problem both times.
 
As the temp nears the desired temp, the unit cycles the element more frequently. If the unit reads 190 and the set temp is 180, the element should not even come on.

That makes it sound like the control action is backward.

From the Auber manual:
4.14 COOL for Celsius, Fahrenheit, Heating, and Cooling Selection
Parameter COOL is used to set the display unit, heating or cooling, and
alarm suppression. Its value is determined by the following formula:
COOL=AX1+BX2+CX8
A=0, reverse action control mode for heating control.
A=1, direct action control mode for cooling control.
B=0, without alarm suppressing when turned on or when set point changes.
B=1, alarm suppressing at power up or set point changes.
C=0, display unit in ºC.
C=1, display unit in ºF.
The factory setting is A=0, B=1, C=1 (heating, with alarm suppression, display
in Fahrenheit). Therefore,
COOL=0X1+1X2+1X8=10
To change from Fahrenheit to Celsius display, set COOL=2

So the COOL parameter should be an even number.
 
Brewing again with this rig today. I ran autotune but not sure it was successful. How long does it take to complete it (nothing in the manual). I may have cycled the power to it prior to completion.

When it was tuning, it took the temp up to the set temp 170 and kept on going to 180. It then let the temp drop back to 168 and held it near there for about 15 minutes. Then the temp started climbing again and went back to 180. Will check the COOL setting if the autotune does not work.
 
I recall autotuning taking about 15-20 minutes for me. It largely depends on how quickly your system can get the heat to the set point from the point where you started. The PID cycles (heating and not heating) 2 or 3 times in order learn how quickly it takes to heat to the set point and how quickly your system looses heat.

BTW - having your temperature probe beneath your heating element is most effective if you have a way to circulate your water around the probe. If you don't circulate the water you will have temperature stratification in the vessel.

If you don't have success, post your settings here.
 
I ran auto-tune a 2nd time and it did not take nearly as long. The probe is below the element so I do need to stir the contents to evenly distribute heat. Not sure if I will do a slow rotating mechanical paddle to stir or a pump to recirc.

After the 2nd auto-tune, the unit heated to the set temp and held it within +/- 2 degrees so I believe you guys have helped me resolve the issue I was having. Thanks to all that contributed.
 
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