Anyone ever DIY a different valve on their Bayou Classic SP10?

[Ike]

I've been using a Bayou Classic SP10 (the three-legged one) for about a year now. Boils the wort like a champ, SOOOOO much better than stovetop brewing.

My only issue: the propane control valve on the unit is just not quite precise enough. Once things are boiling and the clock is running, it is either boiling so hard that the hops are getting kicked up onto the inside of the kettle, or just barely not boiling at all. It seems like if I so much as BREATHE on the valve knob, it bounces me from one end to the other.

I've tried making finer adjustments with the air intake plate at the end of the burner, thinking I could adjust it that way, but that doesn't seem to help me either.

SO, anyone ever manage to use a different valve in-line to make this easier?

Would partially closing the valve on the tank help any? Would this deliver a smaller amount of gas to the burner, allowing me to make finer adjustments with the knob? OR would putting less than full flow through the regulator cause other issues?

Thanks!

 

[Pappers_]

I have't done exactly what you're asking, but empathize. I use a counterflow chiller, and to use that and regular the temperature, I need to control the outflow from the pump. Except the damn control is sooo sensitive, that I can jump 10 degree with barely touching it.

What I've found is that I need to position myself so that I am looking at the outflow while adjusting the knob. In other words, I don't pay any attention to the knob, i'm only looking at the outflow. The equivalent for you would be to get down on low to the ground and look at the flames as you adjust the control. This seems to allow me to get more minute control.