Any element "switch" boxes out there?

[Elfmaze]

I just acquired a set of kettles with boil coils installed in them. Two coils in a Keggle HLT(9000watts) and one coil for the BK(4500watts). I currently have a gas fired electric recirculating RIMS ala Brewmagic style brewery.

I would love to get rid of the gas burners.

I haven't found any controllers that I can just swap in powering the HLT BK, AND RIMS without changing out plugs during the brew day. ESP ones that can deliver all 9000 watts to the HLT.

Kal over at "The Electric Brewery" is trying to talk me into ditching the RIMS and switching to HERMS. then one of his 50 amp back to back panels would work... Even a 30 amp panel if I didn't want to do the back to back, But still leaves that extra heater hanging in the HLT.

How hard would it be to make a small box with one Male l6-30 in and TWO L6-30's out with a selector switch?

I would be able to use the brewery as designed or send the BK power back into the HLT's second coil to boost heat up times, esp in the winter heating 50* water to strike temps. I would rather turn a switch than plug/unplug wires.

 

[Elfmaze]

Looks like something like this would work? Bryant DPDT 3025 toggle switch middle off.

 

[Elfmaze]

this diagram is a bit off as its using a 120V second element... but I guess that would work it I kept the RIMS loop in there otherwise swap the N for B2 for 240v 4500watt element

 

[Elfmaze]

Kal just got back to me in a separate email said it will confuse the PID on his panel. I wonder if using an EZ boil for the BK/ HTL boost would have the same effect. https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=53&products_id=769

 

[sicktght311]

For the sake of a $100 herms coil, Kal isnt necessarily wrong. You seem to have a collection of a few different elements, in different voltage requirements, so its more complicated than if you just used the 240v elements and installed a herms coil. Also why 9000 watts in the HLT and 4500 in the Boil Kettle? Other than cutting heat up times down, seems overkill? Why not just run the single 4500 watt element in the HLT, and single 4500 watt in the Boil Kettle, and run them off a simple 30amp panel. No worries of wort scorching with a Rims tube, consistent mash temps, and a tried and true design. Also if you're brewing single batches on a brew day, the difference between 9000 watts and 4500 watts in your HLT is just a cup of coffee and some grain milling time.

 

[Elfmaze]

Just what the previous owner built in. to remove it would require sealing off the holes too. Trying to decide the path of least resistance...

 

[Elfmaze]

I also have a choice of my current 120v RIMS or this 240v monster.

 

[sicktght311]

I'm not saying remove it, i'm just saying don't utilize one of the two. Or convert one to 120v and plug it into a nearby 15amp outlet during heat up times, since 4500watts 240v will run at around 1,125watts at 120v, and should be fine for a 15amp circuit

 

[Elfmaze]

I'm not saying remove it, i'm just saying don't utilize one of the two. Or convert one to 120v and plug it into a nearby 15amp outlet during heat up times, since 4500watts 240v will run at around 1,125watts at 120v, and should be fine for a 15amp circuit

interesting idea, I wonder if the 1250 watts would be enough to keep the HLT hot for cleaning without the main burner firing. That would bring panel requirements down to a 30amp panel. save some cash, though only $100 on the DIY route.

 

[sicktght311]

Looking at that Rims, i fully support Kal's idea to just move to Herms. You'll thank yourself in the end

 

[Elfmaze]

Looking at that Rims, i fully support Kal's idea to just move to Herms. You'll thank yourself in the end

Here is the history of this RIMS tube https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/irims-is-here.530574/

 

[sicktght311]

Here is the history of this RIMS tube https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/irims-is-here.530574/

Yeah i remember that build. Thats why i'm saying, just keep it simple. Herms coil would work fine, and require significantly less custom work with wiring all this up by just not using one of the HLT elements entirely, or just using it at 120v direct plug in during heat up

 

[Elfmaze]

Yeah i remember that build. Thats why i'm saying, just keep it simple. Herms coil would work fine, and require significantly less custom work with wiring all this up by just not using one of the HLT elements entirely, or just using it at 120v direct plug in during heat up

It was sad to see that brewery scrapped... But bigger issue right now is I have a ton of parts and trying to figure out how to use them. I can't even tough the automation valves I got yet... thats for another day

 

[sicktght311]

I see on your other thread with the herms tube thing, you said the previous owner scrapped the idea of Herms due to slow ramp times. If thats your main reason for not going through with a herms setup, i would reconsider. I run a 10gallon kettle 120v herms and i have no problem going from 152 to mashout temps within 15 minutes. With a 240v system, you would probably have the same heat times. I dont see it as a hinderance at all, as most modified modern malts dont require step mashing, or anything like that anymore, and single infusion is most common. I have never seen a limitation to my setup other than just overall heating times at the beginning of the brew day, and from Mash out to boil. I could probably shave half hour off my brew day if i could go from Mashout to boil faster, but heating times at the beginning of my brew day are irrelevant to me, since i just fill the kettles, flip on the switch, and go about my morning. For instance i brewed on Sunday, and i filled and turned on my kettles at 8am, went back to sleep for a bit. Got up, made breakfast, took care of some things around the house, and when i was ready to brew, my kettles were heated and ready to go. I was mash-in to finishing cleanup in 4.5 hours total.

 

[augiedoggy]

If you have the opportunity to brew with someone else on both a herms and rims system you may find this choice much easier.

I started with a herms system and went to a rims and a few different rims configurations after that. I would never go back to a herms and I guess its one of those things where its best to experience the differences that talk about them. if the rims is designed correctly with an ULWD element it offers more than one advantage over herms. these differences have been discussed over and over and its like a sportcar vs station wagon argument here with different people having different goals.