LagerLover78
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2017
- Messages
- 78
- Reaction score
- 16
Very nice! What's your first brew going to be?
(toss those hoses - many have had issues with them)
Replace the chiller hose with silicone?
Very nice! What's your first brew going to be?
(toss those hoses - many have had issues with them)
My 10.5 gallon Foundry arrived. I dug into it enough to see it came with the side brackets, not the lift up and turn 45° and rest on the ring design.
I posted a picture of mine on the previous page. You can see the bracket holding onto the main cylinder. The brackets just bolt onto the malt pipe and when you lift it out they rest the pipe on the walls of the main unit.How do the side brackets work differently from the former malt pipe?
Not that I'm a litigious person, but since there likely are some who are, there is no doubt that it is a safety issue since 170 degree wort splashing on someone's groin area is likely as serious as someone spilling hot McDonald's coffee in their lap. They are obviously aware it is an issue, thus are liable, and they should take care of it --gratus.Worse case on the FB group John Blichmann said soon a retrofit kit would be available. He didn't say gratus but who knows. There was a recent post on FB where a guy had the basket drop in and splashed out close to a gallon of wort and it left a nice scratch in the kettle.
I posted a picture of mine on the previous page. You can see the bracket holding onto the main cylinder. The brackets just bolt onto the malt pipe and when you lift it out they rest the pipe on the walls of the main unit.
Here is the new basket, I just got it last night and didnt realize they changed the design. I was thinking they forgot a part until I put everything together. It sits vertically pretty straight because the inside wall is thin at the top and gets thicker an inch or so down.
Am I correct in presuming that no ring is involved (necessary) with the new malt pipe design?
correct, no ring at all. Just lift the malt pipe and the brackets go over the sides of the main system. Because its narrower at the top, the malt pipe is help pretty close to vertical. Ive never used the old system with the ring, but I have seen videos of people fiddling with it, this seems like a better solution.Am I correct in presuming that no ring is involved (necessary) with the new malt pipe design?
Update ... I brewed my first all grain last night. Was a small disaster but that was my fault. The brackets to hold the malt pipe to the system for draining and sparging worked really well. It was very stable, I tried tipping it over while draining and it would take some force to do so. I never tried the ring method but this one seems to work really well.
Yeah- hard to tell the angle but someone said another all-in-one kettle does this.
I like a simple solution Brian Short-Circuited made:
View attachment 713205View attachment 713206
Is there any benefit to doing a mash out with the Anvil? I got carried away and forgot my BIAB basics when I switched to the Anvil Foundry and, well, started doing 10 minute mash outs because it was the default in BeerSmith mash profile and it was another cool thing I could do on the display.
If I am lifting the malt pipe (I do full volume so no sparge) doesn’t that negate the need to mash out and thus go straight to boil?
While I bent mine into "V" shapes, I think @mbg actually put some feet under the legs without modifying them to get the height. Personally I think V shape works just well enough, but would prefer if it had four legs instead of three in general for better stability.For those using the brewzilla false bottom, is there anything you would have done differently when modifying it? I see the common thing to do is to bend the feet into a “V” shape to lift it. Has anyone tried anything else like drilling out some holes and using screws to lift it, similar to those brew hardware ebiab false bottoms?
I just went to the hardware store and bought a 1/4 in drill bit and four 1/4 inch stainless carriage bolts. My plan is to drill out four of those tiny holes and put the bolts in with the head of the bolt being the feet. Anyone want to poke some holes in this plan? My only issue is they don’t say what kind of stainless steel the bolts are.While I bent mine into "V" shapes, I think @mbg actually put some feet under the legs without modifying them to get the height. Personally I think V shape works just well enough, but would prefer if it had four legs instead of three in general for better stability.
The Foundry is basically a brew in a bag system minus the bag. So yes it uses way more water than a traditional mash which makes checking your Ph a little more important.I brewed a Session IPA yesterday with a recipe that called for 9.5 pounds of grains. So far, I've been going by the Foundry's user manual's chart for the "5 gallon Sparge method at 240 volts." The chart for 9.5 lbs of grain, calls for 6.2 gallons of strike water and 1 gallon sparge. This just looked like way too much water once I mashed-in the grains. Nothing like the consistency I've seen in the past when following the chart for 11 lbs of grains. However, the recipe says OG should have been 1047 and I hit 1052, so I guess it went OK? I'm kind of confused about the Foundry manual's chart because everything I've read says to use ~1.25 qts of water per lb of grain. Why so much more with the Foundry?
Can you explain this? My experience has always been that BIAB has slightly less grain absorption, so uses slightly less water (though not enough to make any difference at all in pH).The Foundry is basically a brew in a bag system minus the bag. So yes it uses way more water than a traditional mash which makes checking your Ph a little more important.
Can you explain this? My experience has always been that BIAB has slightly less grain absorption, so uses slightly less water (though not enough to make any difference at all in pH).
It doesn't have to. I've only done a full volume mash once, out of close to 100 batches. I typically split my water about 60/40 and acidify my sparge water to prevent tannin extraction. The full volume mash was actually a lot more simple.BIAB uses more water during the MASH stage compared to a typical fly or batch sparge session.
For those using the brewzilla false bottom, is there anything you would have done differently when modifying it? I see the common thing to do is to bend the feet into a “V” shape to lift it. Has anyone tried anything else like drilling out some holes and using screws to lift it, similar to those brew hardware ebiab false bottoms?
As long as the bag doesn't sit on the bottom, shouldn't you be OK?I actually saw a post on the FB group where a brewer uses a bag without the pipe and WITHOUT a false bottom. He used "The Brew Bag" and claims they said it was OK for the bag????
Seems like a kludge. Why not simply fix the ring so it doesn't collapse. I can't recall any mention of this potentially dangerous situation occurring for other similar one kettle electric brewing pots.
I actually saw a post on the FB group where a brewer uses a bag without the pipe and WITHOUT a false bottom. He used "The Brew Bag" and claims they said it was OK for the bag????
As long as the bag doesn't sit on the bottom, shouldn't you be OK?
I think the bag is certain to sit on the bottom without a false bottom. Plus this user claimed since hot plate cycles it was OK.
I have one brew bag that I can clamp onto the top and the bottom will be about 3/4" shy of the bottom of my Anvil 6.5 gal. That is hanging loose without any grain. As the grain fills the bag, the bottom of the bag rises.
And, yes, I have brewed without the mash basket. I think using the mash basket is easier and leaves my hands free to let the wort drain by itself.
Not sure if just PBW is sufficient. I did the PBW followed by bar keepers friend myself. I just figured the extra step was worth it as I drank a couple beers while doing it lol.I’m planning on a first brew this weekend with my 6.5, the manual mentions a PBW cleaning but also barkeepers friend.
Will a PBW clean be sufficient to get this thing ready to brew? I don’t use the pump. Just want to make sure to get any grease or manufacturing oils off it.
thx!
Not sure if just PBW is sufficient. I did the PBW followed by bar keepers friend myself. I just figured the extra step was worth it as I drank a couple beers while doing it lol.
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