ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

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If you do not install a 30 amp breaker, what do you install instead?

IMO GFCI protection is a must. Maybe you could get away with a 20 amp breaker, but I would install a 30 amp breaker because someday you might want graduate to more rig with more power.

In my mind in this application the breaker's main point of protection is against short circuits, not overloads like 20 amps or 30 amps.
 
Hi, I just got my 10.5gal AF and I'm eager to start brewing! I want to ask you opinion regarding the brewing method... would you rather do the "BIAB" no sparging method, or use a recipe as you would do in a regular 3 step process? I scaled my recipes in BrewFather using the 10.5 AF profile and it scales to a no sparging method by default...thoughts?
IMG-20201109-WA0009.jpeg
 
Hi, I just got my 10.5gal AF and I'm eager to start brewing! I want to ask you opinion regarding the brewing method... would you rather do the "BIAB" no sparging method, or use a recipe as you would do in a regular 3 step process? I scaled my recipes in BrewFather using the 10.5 AF profile and it scales to a no sparging method by default...thoughts?

If it is your first brew day on the new rig, keep it simple and easy. I suggest you go with a new no-sparge recipe.

You will make beer with the only penalty is buying a few extra pounds of grain. Not a big penalty for your first shot while getting familiar with the new equipment.
 
Hi Brian,
I had my neighbor come over who is a licensed electrician and says I don't need a 30 amp breaker for a 240 dedicated line I'm having installed to run 220 on my 10.5 foundry is there a reason I do need a 30 amp GFCI breaker?
Thanks
No. Technically, a 15 amp breaker will work with the Anvil 10.5, but I installed a 20 amp circuit because I never know what upgrade I may go with in the future.
 
Any body have a 2” tri clamp adapter mounted on the lid? If so , where did you get it?
Thanks
 
HI everyone! I want to pick your brain, and get some insight on where to start.

I want to brew an Irish Red Ale in my new AF, using sparge method but I'm curious about the difference in the numbers of strike and sparge water between Brewfather, the given recipe, and the AF Manual, as follows.

What is your opinion? Which numbers would you use? Thanks in advance!

BREWFATHERRECIPEAF MANUAL
Mash (gal)
4,15​
3,23​
6,20​
Sparge (gal)
3,19​
4,74​
1,00​
TOTAL
7,34​
7,97​
7,20​
 
OK, so let's look at the different sources:

The recipe is written for people who have all kinds of different systems -- from a mash cooler which leaves 2.5 +/- quarts of wort behind when the wort is drained into the boil kettle to an AIO system where there is no such loss to consider. The instructions are very generic since the writer does not have the information to be specific about the process each user will utilize.

The Anvil recommendations are also fairly generic and designed for those people who want an easy go-to to get close to the desired results. Again, this does not have any specific adjustments for individual process such as wort loss to the spent grains. These are clearly written for those users who do not use software or where close enough is good enough.

The Brewfather numbers should represent your particular equipment if you have taken the time to make adjustments for your style of brewing and equipment particulars. If you are using a stock profile, then it represents someone else's work at dialing in their Anvil to get reasonably accurate volume results given the way they brew.

Even people with the same equipment experience, sometimes significant, differences in results. Differences in grind, extraction efficiency, mash/sparge water split, water retention in the grains, boil off rate due to elevation, etc. will all dictate so one extent or another how much water you actually will need.

If I were to get a new Anvil or other brewing unit, I would first trust the software in which I have the control to enable it to reflect my process losses, efficiency, and brewing style before I trusted a generic set of instructions designed to get one "close enough", whatever that means to the person writing the recommendations.
 
OK, so let's look at the different sources:

The recipe is written for people who have all kinds of different systems -- from a mash cooler which leaves 2.5 +/- quarts of wort behind when the wort is drained into the boil kettle to an AIO system where there is no such loss to consider. The instructions are very generic since the writer does not have the information to be specific about the process each user will utilize.

The Anvil recommendations are also fairly generic and designed for those people who want an easy go-to to get close to the desired results. Again, this does not have any specific adjustments for individual process such as wort loss to the spent grains. These are clearly written for those users who do not use software or where close enough is good enough.

The Brewfather numbers should represent your particular equipment if you have taken the time to make adjustments for your style of brewing and equipment particulars. If you are using a stock profile, then it represents someone else's work at dialing in their Anvil to get reasonably accurate volume results given the way they brew.

Even people with the same equipment experience, sometimes significant, differences in results. Differences in grind, extraction efficiency, mash/sparge water split, water retention in the grains, boil off rate due to elevation, etc. will all dictate so one extent or another how much water you actually will need.

If I were to get a new Anvil or other brewing unit, I would first trust the software in which I have the control to enable it to reflect my process losses, efficiency, and brewing style before I trusted a generic set of instructions designed to get one "close enough", whatever that means to the person writing the recommendations.

I usually go with the BF numbers, with my 3 vessel setup. It caught my eye the difference between strike/sparge, and since it's my first brew using the AF, wanted to get other people's opinions.
 
The TL;DR version of @Oginme 's thoughtful reply is that you have to set the equipment profile up to match your gear and process.

The strike and sparge volume differences are one of the least important pieces of this. More important is the total amount of water, adjusted to take into account your grain absorption, your boil-off rate, and your kettle losses. As you likely know, you can mash/sparge at a ratio of 50/50 up to 100/0, all at your discretion.

The Anvil directions are basically saying to perform a mostly full volume mash with a minimal sparge. The other two are giving you a more traditional single batch sparge breakdown. But ultimately, you decide this. Brewfather has a setting for "no sparge" as well, and that will obviously change the result.
 
Has anyone tried using the Spike CIP ball to clean the Foundry after brewing? I added a TC bulkhead to my Foundry lid to use the Steam Slayer and figure I’ll take advantage of that to try out the Spike CIP ball with my Chugger pump as well after my next brew.
 
Has anyone tried using the Spike CIP ball to clean the Foundry after brewing? I added a TC bulkhead to my Foundry lid to use the Steam Slayer and figure I’ll take advantage of that to try out the Spike CIP ball with my Chugger pump as well after my next brew.
I’ve often thought about getting the steam slayer for the foundry myself. Just curious - not sure if you are on 240v or 120v but how much does this change boil off? Never used a CIP ball as I just do a CIP PBW after each brew with the normal recirc setup and a simple sponge wipes it all clean as a whistle each time.
 
Been lurking in this thread for a short while, I've done several Extract brews using gas burner and just ordered a Foundry 10.5 from NB. Looking forward to getting my first brew in it soon. I might do a dbl batch using extract just to see how it works before jumping into all grain!!! :cool:

I just used the Foundry a few weeks ago for the first time, which was also my first all-grain brew. I would recommend just diving right into all-grain. The added steps of mashing and sparging (the latter being optional) are so easy with this system. You really have nothing to worry about.
 
I’ve often thought about getting the steam slayer for the foundry myself. Just curious - not sure if you are on 240v or 120v but how much does this change boil off? Never used a CIP ball as I just do a CIP PBW after each brew with the normal recirc setup and a simple sponge wipes it all clean as a whistle each time.

I’m on 120V, but I haven’t used the Steam Slayer yet. I plan to test with water tomorrow or Friday before I brew with it on Saturday, so I’ll let you know. Everything I’ve read says to expect about a 50% reduction, though, so with 120V that would mean only boiling off a quarter gallon per hour.
 
I’ve often thought about getting the steam slayer for the foundry myself. Just curious - not sure if you are on 240v or 120v but how much does this change boil off? Never used a CIP ball as I just do a CIP PBW after each brew with the normal recirc setup and a simple sponge wipes it all clean as a whistle each time.

I'm going to ask what seems like a fairly stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. Do you:

Dump out whatever is left after pushing wort to fermenter?
Fill up the Foundry w/fresh water up to the gunk level,
Dump in the appropriate amount of PBW and recirculate?

Do you heat the water? How "much" rinsing do you have to do w/the PBW for volume of water?

I'm trying to figure out how much lifting of the damn Foundry I'd have to do in and out of my garage.

My current method of cleaning involves utilizing the recirculated water from my IC. I dump the first Home Depot bucket of hot water collected in there, dump some PBW and scrub, splash, pump out. Then put some "fresh" (IC water source, by this time ice cold) water in there, scrub, splash, pump out. Then more fresh water, splash, then pump out.

Basically, at the end of my brew day my lower back is flipping killing me!!!! Saving some time might be nice too.
 
I'm going to ask what seems like a fairly stupid question, but I'm going to ask it anyways. Do you:

Dump out whatever is left after pushing wort to fermenter?
Fill up the Foundry w/fresh water up to the gunk level,
Dump in the appropriate amount of PBW and recirculate?

Do you heat the water? How "much" rinsing do you have to do w/the PBW for volume of water?

I'm trying to figure out how much lifting of the damn Foundry I'd have to do in and out of my garage.

My current method of cleaning involves utilizing the recirculated water from my IC. I dump the first Home Depot bucket of hot water collected in there, dump some PBW and scrub, splash, pump out. Then put some "fresh" (IC water source, by this time ice cold) water in there, scrub, splash, pump out. Then more fresh water, splash, then pump out.

Basically, at the end of my brew day my lower back is flipping killing me!!!! Saving some time might be nice too.

I am a garage brewer too.

1. yes I dump the leftovers after pushing wort to fermenter. Not much left so I lift the nearly empty kettle and dump into a bucket for transport.
2. I then wheel the kettle to my garden hose and fill it up to gunk level (about 8gallons), then wheel it back to my garage, plug it in and add PBW. I heat water to 150 while recirculating.

While the setup is recirculating and heating, I simply clean up everything else around, and perhaps have a beer/attend to family etc.

After PBW is complete in the system I use the same PBW water to clean all other SS parts (recirculating disk, SS mash paddle, etc. Then I dump the water into a bucket to move and dispose.

What makes everything easy for me is that I have my kettle setup on a hand truck that folds all the way down where I built a crude platform for it. So I wheel to my fermenter to push wort into fermenter (never had to lift a full fermenter because of this!), wheel it outside to rinse off etc. The picture was intended to show someone else the whirlpool arm but you can see the "brew stand" behind it. I bought the hand truck years ago for moving to a new house, but this has been an excellent use of something I haven't used since the move and it saves the amount of lifting needed tremendously.
brewstand.jpg
 
Hmm...so I can imagine a furniture dolly or something similar could provide the same function for me..

I brew right next to a side door that I punched into place in the garage shortly after I moved in to my house. I typically run my IC outlet hose out that door and into a HD bucket to capture the first 10 gallons of hot water. But I’m carrying those damn things to the front yard (which honestly is maybe...20-30 steps away but that $[+#! adds up) where my hose is and where I do the majority of my “parts” washing.

The foundry is more or less where the keg is in this picture, door would be to Right. That is actually it underneath the Batman cover. So the transfer to fermenter is easy. It is the cleaning of it that is kickin my butt (lower back). Funny (not so funny) is that my wife’s back decided to spasm last night. We’re both in pretty good shape but this getting older crap is for the birds. Figuring out how to work smarter vs harder now may ensure a better retirement life later. I appreciate you sharing.

755C5742-5297-4C69-8BF4-8E1EF3844795.jpeg
 
Hi fellow brewers, just finished my first batch and I wanted to share my experience:

I bought a recipe from my local brew shop, an Irish Red Ale. Didn’t go with the recipe, but instead I used the AF manual, which indicated 7.5 gal mash for 9 lbs grain, no sparge.
  1. I used a brew bag.
  2. I hit all the numbers (mash temp, mash time).
  3. It got to mash temp in less than 20 min. (My old setup took 40)
  4. I recirculated and got a pre boil gravity of 1.052 (edited)
  5. I got a pre boil volume of 6.4 gal.
  6. Reached boil temp in 30 minutes. (My old setup was around 90, but I stopped even counting, it took long time)
  7. I got a post boil volume of 5.8 gals, and an OG of 1055 (EDITED) vs 1.044 that the recipe stated.
  8. used the AF Chiller with iced water and got to the right temp. In 25 minutes.
I can say that I’m more than pleased with the AF. I got the 240V since here in Chile we use 220V. Hell, even the cleaning time was reduce to a half.

I had a few of home brewed myself so I’m calculating efficiency tomorrow.

I got the AF 10.5 gal imported from the US (the only Thing you can get here are brewzillas, twice the price than in the US or Aus...but it is money well spent.

Cheers!
 
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hmm... "pre boil gravity of 1.055" and "pre boil volume of 6.4 gal.", ok

but "post boil volume of 5.8 gals, and an OG of 1052" is unexpected. You boiled 0.6 gallon of water yet your gravity went down ?

You might need to re-check your numbers :)
But I'm glad you're liking the AF and, hopefully, the final product

Cheers!
 
hmm... "pre boil gravity of 1.055" and "pre boil volume of 6.4 gal.", ok

but "post boil volume of 5.8 gals, and an OG of 1052" is unexpected. You boiled 0.6 gallon of water yet your gravity went down ?

You might need to re-check your numbers :)
But I'm glad you're liking the AF and, hopefully, the final product

Cheers!

You are absolutely right. I checked my notes and I realized I misplaced the numbers. The pre boil gravity was 1.052 and post boil was 1.055. Thanks for noticing.
 
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For those of you using a bag, does anyone get those extraordinary BIAB efficiencies with this system? Like the ones in the neighborhood of 85% to 90% mash efficiency?

The reason I ask is that I usually order 3-4+ batches worth of ingredients at a time. Looking to buy one of these before I use up all of those ingredients, and I typically get 85%-90% mash efficiency which is how my recipes were designed. I know grain is cheap, but I'd rather not totally retool my recipes just yet.

Finally, for those of you using the Foundry as a fermenter, what adaptations are you making to make that work? I almost exclusively use Voss Kveik, but our house stays cool even in the summer months which means I'm almost always having to add some heat to drive attenuation.
 
For those of you using a bag, does anyone get those extraordinary BIAB efficiencies with this system? Like the ones in the neighborhood of 85% to 90% mash efficiency?

The reason I ask is that I usually order 3-4+ batches worth of ingredients at a time. Looking to buy one of these before I use up all of those ingredients, and I typically get 85%-90% mash efficiency which is how my recipes were designed. I know grain is cheap, but I'd rather not totally retool my recipes just yet.

Finally, for those of you using the Foundry as a fermenter, what adaptations are you making to make that work? I almost exclusively use Voss Kveik, but our house stays cool even in the summer months which means I'm almost always having to add some heat to drive attenuation.

I don’t use a bag, but my first ever beer in the Foundry which was also my first ever all-grain beer had 80% mash efficiency.
 
I don’t use a bag, but my first ever beer in the Foundry which was also my first ever all-grain beer had 80% mash efficiency.

Good to know.. What kind of crush are you using? My typical one gets into pretty floury/large grain sand territory.
 
I typically get 85%-90% mash efficiency which is how my recipes were designed. I know grain is cheap, but I'd rather not totally retool my recipes just yet.
If you do end up scaling for different efficiency, it is usually best to just scale the base malt and leave the specialty malts alone.
 
Yeah, I've considered it in the past. Good suggestion.
My local brewpub owner lets me buy full sacks of base malt from him at cost. I split a 55lb sack between two 7 gallon buckets. If you ask around, you might be able to find a closer source. I've heard that some States require breweries to account for every grain so they wouldn't be able to do that. I've no idea where Texas stands on that though.
 
My local brewpub owner lets me buy full sacks of base malt from him at cost. I split a 55lb sack between two 7 gallon buckets. If you ask around, you might be able to find a closer source. I've heard that some States require breweries to account for every grain so they wouldn't be able to do that. I've no idea where Texas stands on that though.

As lax as we are on "mandatory" mask-wearing, I can't imagine anyone would care if I bought some malt from a local brewer! 😂😂

Still doesn't help.. Lots of miles between me and a brewer.
 
Good to know.. What kind of crush are you using? My typical one gets into pretty floury/large grain sand territory.

Just however Midwest Supplies/Northern Brewer does it. Here’s a picture of the ingredients from the first batch so maybe you can get a good idea from this.
 

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Just however Midwest Supplies/Northern Brewer does it. Here’s a picture of the ingredients from the first batch so maybe you can get a good idea from this.

What kind of mash efficiency are you getting? Are you using a bag or just the basket?
 
Just did my test of the Steam Slayer with water. I’m using 120v. The few times I tried to lower the power, it seemed that the water became pretty idle even though the temp still read 212. I decided eventually to just keep it at 100% because that was giving me a nice vigorous boil. Still boiled off half a gallon like I would have without the lid on.

I guess I’ll have to wait and see how it does tomorrow night because I know wort boils differently than pure water.
 
[QUOTE="mcmeador,
I added a TC bulkhead to my Foundry lid

Which bulkhead did you get? And where?
A part number would be great.
Thanks
 
I've been a big fan of Ritebrew, located in Wisconsin. For my propane brews I ask them for "double milling" and add a half pound of rice hulls. I do a few gallons sparge and typically get 85% efficiency and never a stuck mash.

Just hoping to give examples / ideas. Own a Foundry but have been continuing to do propane brews because the weather was so nice (well up til a week ago!).
 
I've been a big fan of Ritebrew, located in Wisconsin. For my propane brews I ask them for "double milling" and add a half pound of rice hulls. I do a few gallons sparge and typically get 85% efficiency and never a stuck mash.

Just hoping to give examples / ideas. Own a Foundry but have been continuing to do propane brews because the weather was so nice (well up til a week ago!).

Do you use a bag in your Foundry? Still get 85%?
 
Do you use a bag in your Foundry? Still get 85%?
Sorry I wasn't specific, my last sentence was meant to say I have used the Foundry yet.

Beer making in anything should however be similar. Crush fine, add rice hulls if nervous about the fine crush, sparge (aka rinse). You shouldn't have too many issues w/ efficiency. In the end you are just soaking grain and getting its contents, no real magic. The idea that a bag makes much difference either way says to me we have other variables going on and super small sample sizes to work off of.
 

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