Another first time kegger

[mojotele]

Hey guys,

So I'm planning to go out tonight and grab a Frigidaire FRC445GM to eventually convert to a kegerator. I'm trying to get a grasp on everything else I'll need. Here's what I think I need (most from KegConnection.com):

Beer Tower, 2 Faucet, 3" Stainless Steel (Upgrade to Perlick Faucets and Homebrew Disconnects)
5 LB CO2 Cylinder, Aluminum
Disconnect IN (Gas) Ball Lock, Barbed End (2)
CO2 Beer Regulator, Dual Body and a Three Gauge, Chudnow Economy Brand
Gas Hose, Red, 5/16 ID, 9/16 OD, Per Foot (8', 4' for each regulator body)
2 kegs

Obviously I'm going with a 2 keg setup. I'm guessing the dual body regulator comes in handy when you have a low carb beer (like a stout) in one keg with a normal carb beer in the other. True? I didn't include beer disconnects or lines as I'm assuming they would come with the tower. But, then I'm not sure how long those lines are. I'm guessing you'd have to couple another line to them somehow to make them longer if need be.

Anyway, it's all a tad confusing. I sure would appreciate some help!

 

[cvstrat]

You'll need liquid out disconnects too. You'll take off the connectors on the end of the hose attached to the faucet and put those one. So order two liquid outs and two gas ins and get some hose clamps.

 

[cvstrat]

oh and 4 of the barbed fittings

 

[mojotele]

You'll need liquid out disconnects too. You'll take off the connectors on the end of the hose attached to the faucet and put those one. So order two liquid outs and two gas ins and get some hose clamps.

10-4 on the hose clamps!

But the liquid out disconnects - isn't that covered by the upgrade to homebrew disconnects? Or does that mean something else? I'm also not sure what you mean by the barbed fittings. Sorry

 

[cvstrat]

Most tap towers aren't setup for homebrew systems. The ends of the hoses coming from the taps will have the wrong type of connector. All you really need is the tap hose to not have any connector on it at all, you'll slide that hose over the MFL fitting. The ball lock disconnects will look like this:

On the end of that you will screw on a MFL fitting that looks like this:

You'll remove the connector that comes stock on the tap hose, and slide it over the MFL fitting and clamp it down. If you ever had to remove a broken quick disconnect you just unscrew it from the MFL and leave the MFL clamped to the hose.

 

[mosquitocontrol]

If you don't have a good wrench set or a deep socket set you will likely need those tools to get off the poppets and fully clean the kegs.

Also, keg lube.

 

[shortyjacobs]

10-4 on the hose clamps!

But the liquid out disconnects - isn't that covered by the upgrade to homebrew disconnects? Or does that mean something else? I'm also not sure what you mean by the barbed fittings. Sorry

You are right. You are talking about this http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=102 , right?

If you get the homebrew disconnects, it will come with the liquid out disconnects already attached. Although cvstrat is correct, the mfl disconnects are nicer, yours will probably just come with barbed liquid disconnects, which are JUST fine...(just not quite as handy as the MFL ones, but also not necessary)...

 

[mojotele]

I gotcha now, cvstrat. I guess it's unclear what that "upgrade to homebrew disconnect" option really means. Your method would insure that I have a connection that not only works but is easily replaceable. Thanks for explaining!

Mosquitocontrol - I should be good on tools, but I'll be sure to pick up some keg lube. Thanks!

 

[mojotele]

You are right. You are talking about this http://stores.kegconnection.com/Detail.bok?no=102 , right?

If you get the homebrew disconnects, it will come with the liquid out disconnects already attached. Although cvstrat is correct, the mfl disconnects are nicer, yours will probably just come with barbed liquid disconnects, which are JUST fine...(just not quite as handy as the MFL ones, but also not necessary)...

That was exactly what I was talking about. Thanks! I may go with the MFL ones, though, as they do look quite a bit nicer for not much extra cost.

 

[shortyjacobs]

That was exactly what I was talking about. Thanks! I may go with the MFL ones, though, as they do look quite a bit nicer for not much extra cost.

Kegconnection is usually very flexible on changes. Call them, I bet they will swap barbed disconnects for MFL ones in a heartbeat, (if they don't already come with MFL ones to begin with). Also, check beer line length on those taps, and ask them to up it to 10' per tap.

I use 10' per tap, Kegconnection by default ships with 5' lines, which I have found to not be enough. This is, however, a point of contention, where some say 5' is enough, others say go for 10'. It's easier to take line off than it is to add it though...

 

[mojotele]

Ahh it's cool that Kegconnection is so flexible. I'll definitely give them a call when I'm ready. Thanks so much!!

 

[cvstrat]

I'd call and say you want MFL fittings. If they can't do it have them cancel the "upgrade" and get the fitting separately, it's literally maybe a few dollars difference and is worth it IMO. I can't possibly imagine them not just doing it for you.

Like they said earlier get a tube of food grade lube, you'll rub each gasket with it before you seal it all up. Also I recommend two extra sets of the o rings, and at one or two poppets. Nothing sucks worse than a keg that won't hold pressure and I assure you it'll happen at the worst possible moment.

I also agree with the socket for the posts. I took my keg into Lowes, (home depot didn't have the right size) and for the firestone kegs I have Kobalt was the only brand I could find with the right size socket.

 

[Frank99]

Be sure to order a beer tower cooler, otherwise you'll be serving up warm foam

 

[shortyjacobs]

Be sure to order a beer tower cooler, otherwise you'll be serving up warm foam

Or make your own....(also, for some reason some people don't have a problem with uncooled towers).

DYIs:
http://brother-buford.livejournal.com/18157.html#cutid1
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/pvc-tower-cooling-solution-43072/

 

[mojotele]

I'll be grabbing the ball lock kegs from my LHBS since it ends up being cheaper when factoring in shipping. I'll check it against my socket wrench sets to see if I have one that fits and, if not, I'll just do what you did - take it to Lowes. My LHBS also has O rings, poppets, and lube, so I can just pick them up while I'm there.

As for cooling the tower, I saw one person on the forum who just used copper piping coming from inside the fridge to the top of the tower as a sleeve for the beer lines. Apparently, that was able to keep the beer lines cold enough to stop foaming. Seems like a cheap and easy solution, if it works. And it seems like it should. If it doesn't, I can always fashion up a little cooling fan.

Thanks SO much for the input, guys. Kegging really seems like a whole new world compared to bottling, and you've really helped me understand it a little better.

 

[mojotele]

Here's the thread where the guy used the copper pipe. Same exact fridge I'm using. I think it works particularly well with this fridge as the top part is actually a freezer section with a removable shelf.

 

[shortyjacobs]

Here's the thread where the guy used the copper pipe. Same exact fridge I'm using. I think it works particularly well with this fridge as the top part is actually a freezer section with a removable shelf.

Yup. Credit where credit is due...I believe that idea was originally Bradsul's, (my second link)

Or make your own....(also, for some reason some people don't have a problem with uncooled towers).

DYIs:
http://brother-buford.livejournal.com/18157.html#cutid1
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/pvc-tower-cooling-solution-43072/

 

[mojotele]

Indeed. Thanks for pointing that out! My brain failed to process those two links as two separate links and, for some odd reason, told me that they were one link. Thus I only ever clicked on the first one.

Brainfail.

 

[Walker]

Here's the thread where the guy used the copper pipe. Same exact fridge I'm using. I think it works particularly well with this fridge as the top part is actually a freezer section with a removable shelf.

I used the copper pipe thing on my tower. In my opinion, it does NOT work. The copper is room temp at the top end. Another person who I was following on the kegerator build also use the copper pipe. His first impressions was that it was working, but he later changed his mind and thinks it is not working.

At any rate, the amount of foam I get on the first pint of the evening isn't a big deal. Maybe 1" extra foam than subsequent pours.

 

[mojotele]

It's probably highly dependent on how well insulated your tower is. The less it is insulated, the more copper surface area you'll need in the actual fridge. It's essentially a heat sink.

 

[Walker]

Well... My copper pipes extend over a foot into the fridge cabinet and are double wrapped in pipe insulation inside the tower. I literally could not put more insulation inside the tower than I already have in there.

YMMV, but my opionion is that this whole thing didn't really help at all, but the problem with foam is minor at any rate.

 

[mojotele]

Ahh, ok. I'll have to evaluate the copper vs. making a little fan, then. Seems like the fan works for most people. Thanks for chiming in on that!