I should be...
Amylase Enzyme Question.....
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Perhaps water is better if your counting calories lol. I like my beer with some body and flavor.
don't go there, i've sunk so low since May to be drinking fermented sugar water.....
no harder then balancing a checkbook.....
I've got the music for this, been putting it off (on piano).
Maybe take up walking so you can drink better beer. See what your neighbors think if you do both at the same time.
lol, very overrated..the 200 calories walking for an hour, would just make me hungier and drink an extra 200 calorie beer...
Nah think of it as more of the few calorie difference between the beer with gluco and without.
OP
OP
As should I! But my body is not a temple…. It’s more of a beer processing plant!
OP
OP
I think that at the very least, I’m going to start adding alpha amylase to my mash, and start using an iodine test to make sure my wort is as fermentable as I like to think it is.
Also, I tested the gravity today, and had a taste…. There was a sort of nutty flavor that I didn’t mind, and so far it’s pretty freakin good!
Also, I tested the gravity today, and had a taste…. There was a sort of nutty flavor that I didn’t mind, and so far it’s pretty freakin good!
The iodine test does not tell you how fermentable the wort is. It only tells you if there is residual starch. Dextrins will not show up on the iodine test, and they are not fermentable. If you want to make sure you have maximum fermentability, mash low (no more than 148°F to minimize dextrins) for at least 30 minutes (you can do a higher mash step after that), continue mashing until the iodine test is negative for starch (be sure to include some grain bits in the test, as that's where most of the residual starch will be) or test the SG against the table here, and then mash for another 30 minutes to make sure the enzymes do everything they can to reduce dextrins to fermentable sugars.
Adding amylase to the mash won't help fermentability, unless the grain bill does not supply enough amylase on its own. A mash with at least 50% base malt (two row barley, pilsner, light wheat, six row barley, etc.) should have enough amylase enzymes to completely convert all of the starch.
Summary: start the mash at a low temp (to minimize residual dextrins), and mash long enough for the enzymes to complete their work.
Brew on
The iodine test does not tell you how fermentable the wort is. It only tells you if there is residual starch. Dextrins will not show up on the iodine test, and they are not fermentable. If you want to make sure you have maximum fermentability, mash low (no more than 148°F to minimize dextrins) for at least 30 minutes (you can do a higher mash step after that), continue mashing until the iodine test is negative for starch (be sure to include some grain bits in the test, as that's where most of the residual starch will be) or test the SG against the table here, and then mash for another 30 minutes to make sure the enzymes do everything they can to reduce dextrins to fermentable sugars.
Adding amylase to the mash won't help fermentability, unless the grain bill does not supply enough amylase on its own. A mash with at least 50% base malt (two row barley, pilsner, light wheat, six row barley, etc.) should have enough amylase enzymes to completely convert all of the starch.
Summary: start the mash at a low temp (to minimize residual dextrins), and mash long enough for the enzymes to complete their work.
Brew on
love that link, i usually get about temp corrected 1.078 at 1.3 qt/lb...and dividing 78 by 90 gives me about my usual effec, plan on trying to remember it, plus the smart stuff on the left side... maybe i could improve my sparge using it..
(just the tips i need to overhear to get back to my 99 cent twelve pack!)
OP
OP
Lol, just when I think I finally have this thing called brewing all figured out!The iodine test does not tell you how fermentable the wort is. It only tells you if there is residual starch. Dextrins will not show up on the iodine test, and they are not fermentable. If you want to make sure you have maximum fermentability, mash low (no more than 148°F to minimize dextrins) for at least 30 minutes (you can do a higher mash step after that), continue mashing until the iodine test is negative for starch (be sure to include some grain bits in the test, as that's where most of the residual starch will be) or test the SG against the table here, and then mash for another 30 minutes to make sure the enzymes do everything they can to reduce dextrins to fermentable sugars.
Adding amylase to the mash won't help fermentability, unless the grain bill does not supply enough amylase on its own. A mash with at least 50% base malt (two row barley, pilsner, light wheat, six row barley, etc.) should have enough amylase enzymes to completely convert all of the starch.
Summary: start the mash at a low temp (to minimize residual dextrins), and mash long enough for the enzymes to complete their work.
Brew on
. Incidentally, I was just reading all about dextrins in the mash, but the process you described makes a lot of sense. The problem is that I keep getting great fermentation in the beginning, then it seems to slow to a snail’s pace leaving me to figure out if I’m not making good enough wort, or if I’m just impatient
. I know in the end it’s “just” beer, but I take this stuff seriously because brewing is most gonna likely going to be my retirement job!
i'd think you'd be better off thinking of it as an meat extender for your nest egg....kinda like rice, or potatoes, bread, or even noodles...
This is how fermentations usually proceed. A lag time for things to get started (can be hours, or even days), then rapid speed up to a vigorous fermentation, and then a continuous slow down of activity until it stops. You can tell when things are done by measuring the SG. When you get two identical readings at least two days apart, you are usually done.
You can judge how fermentable your wort was by comparing your apparent attenuation to the stated attenuation for the yeast you used. The formula for apparent attenuation is:
Attenuation (%) = 100% * (OG - FG) / (OG -1)
If your wort has lots of crystal/caramel or roasted malts, then your attenuation will likely be less (lower fermentability) than stated for the yeast.Brew on
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OP
OP
Update: I know you have all been losing sleep, wondering how this beer developed....... so you're sleepless nights are over!
Basically, the fermentation stopped, or slowed to a snail's pace after a couple of days. I made the decision to add glucoamylase to the fermenter, and the next day she was abubblin again! Today I took my final gravity, which finished at 1.000 on the button, I couldn't be happier! As an added bonus, the beer tastes great and has a nice kick at 7.3% ABV!
Thanks to all for the advice, once again it proved to be very helpful
Basically, the fermentation stopped, or slowed to a snail's pace after a couple of days. I made the decision to add glucoamylase to the fermenter, and the next day she was abubblin again! Today I took my final gravity, which finished at 1.000 on the button, I couldn't be happier! As an added bonus, the beer tastes great and has a nice kick at 7.3% ABV!
Thanks to all for the advice, once again it proved to be very helpful
Update: I know you have all been losing sleep, wondering how this beer developed....... so you're sleepless nights are over!
Basically, the fermentation stopped, or slowed to a snail's pace after a couple of days. I made the decision to add glucoamylase to the fermenter, and the next day she was abubblin again! Today I took my final gravity, which finished at 1.000 on the button, I couldn't be happier! As an added bonus, the beer tastes great and has a nice kick at 7.3% ABV!
An IPA that ended at 1.000? Not a surprise if you added gluco, but I wonder about the quality of the beer. That (literally) is the same density as water.
Obviously, the one thing that matters is that YOU like it.
Well there was that Brut IPA thing where a 1.000 FG would on target.
Was never my bag...and the style never gained much traction before fading out...
Cheers!
Was never my bag...and the style never gained much traction before fading out...
Cheers!
I actually added enzyme (in the fermenter) to a Cold IPA when (at 1.015) I didn't get the attenuation I did when I made test batches (1.005). It finished at 0.997 and 9.2% ABV. I was very worried about it tasting like rocket fuel and super thin/flabby, but it was had neither characteristic. Re: the body, I think the greater amount of alcohol actually helped with this, since the OG was around 1.067. Now, if it started lower and had lower ABV, I'm positive it would have been a lot flabbier.
Added Glucoamylase for the first time to a Pilsner. Always trying the get that FG down but never get it enough. Only added half the recommended amount and wow. Actually cold crashed it at 1.003 and I think it would keep going. First taste out of the fermenter and it’s dry and just how I wanted it. Great stuff. Trying to decide whether to add some to that IPA to finish it out.
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Na, just a drier profile. Depending on mood and style I am making, sometimes that’s what I want. A nice tool for the tool belt, honestly. And I can tell out of the fermenter this beer will be ready with very little wait. And will be nothing like Coors
Your tastes may be different, but I’ll be drinking this by next week! Lol
OP
OP
It's amazing how well, and how fast it worked! Chemistry is cool
It's amazing how well, and how fast it worked! Chemistry is cool
biotech is cool too...look into protien purification!
Yea it just kept it going down.It's amazing how well, and how fast it worked! Chemistry is cool
This should keep you busy for at least one evening bracc. I have done this myself, but not with yeast and beer (I've used it on various food types). Super-cool effect.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/yeast-immobilization-magic-beans-of-fermentation.404698/page-11
i'm going to have to figure out how that thread ended up at constipated yeast!
That picture creeped me out the first time. Still does
If one mashed a bit high, is there anything out there, beta amylase?, to get FG down a couple of points in the fermenter? 1.001 is definitely way too low!
Alpha amylase can be pretty cheap and is easy enough to find. Beta not so much.
34/70 quit at 1.012. Target was .009, My fault. Would love to at least get it to .010
Personally, I doubt that I could taste a 3 point difference. Hell, at my age I'm not sure I can reliably read a 3 point difference. YMMV of course.
I really wanted a crisp Pils. Maybe I can put some heat on this and warm it up a bit more.
Just curious--what was your mash temp?
Try replacing some of the grain with flaked corn next time. That's how Peroni is made. It's about as crisp as it gets.
156. According to software, finish .009. I just forgot to make an adjustment on brew day
Strange that the s/w would predict .009 FG with 156F mash temp, unless your SG was low. I think 34/70 attenuates 80-84%.
It prob didn’t help that I came out of the mash a few points high. Anyway it’s warming up. Maybe I can get something going.
