Advice on my 2nd batch

[reappearhere]

Hi folks,

So after successfully bottling a batch of Weizenbier which my roommate and I made from a pre-bagged wort kit, I tried my hand at a Munton's canned malt extract kit (the Premium Lager one). Initial density was at about 1,040. I'm on day 5 of fermentation and I'm still only at a density of around 1.014, where the kit instructions say not to bottle before a final density inferior to 1.008. So it appears I've got a ways to go for just one day left in the suggested fermenting period.

The indoor temperature when we started was about 20° C, and fell to 18° C a couple days ago. Perhaps the fall in temperature has slowed down the fermentation? 18° is still a fairly agreeable indoor temperature for a human, but how do the yeast react to it?

So anyways my real questions are:

1. Is there cause for concern?
2. If so, how should I remedy the problem?

A possible solution (or not) I've thought of is adding a bit more sugar and/or yeast to the wort and letting sit a few days longer.

What should I do, friends and experienced homebrewers?

 

[JMSetzler]

Let it sit for a good bit longer.. If this is a LAGER kit and not an ale kit, you are well above standard fermentation temps. Lager yeasts go for longer time at lower temps.

I rarely ever bottle a beer that hasn't been in a fermenter (or two fermenters) for less than 30 days. A 1.040 beer should ferment quickly but let it ride and let the yeast do some cleanup.

 

[smiffbrewing]

That temp is high for a lager yeast (if thats what youre using). If i were you i would take a gravity reading a couple days after the first and see if it has changed. If it is the same, thats all its gonna do. When you are brewing with extracts you dont have control over the fermentability of your wort. The producer of the extract could have mashed a wee bit high and left you with more dextrins than the recipe intended. 1.014 isnt crazy high so if thats all you get out of it, youll be fine. ps..you might want to lager that bad boy for a while. Cheers!

 

[reappearhere]

Thanks guys. So no cause for concern. As for "lagering", what does that mean on a practical level? I just let it sit in the primary fermentation bucket for longer, or do I transfer it to a carboy and let it sit for a couple weeks before bottling?

 

[reappearhere]

Here is a link to the kit's page on the manufacturer's website, if that's any help to give you an idea of the kind of material I'm working with.

http://www.muntonshomebrew.com/premium-canada-range/premium-lager-2/

And to the instructions: http://www.muntonshomebrew.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/06/Muntons_Canadian_premium.pdf

 

[chickypad]

Thanks guys. So no cause for concern. As for "lagering", what does that mean on a practical level? I just let it sit in the primary fermentation bucket for longer, or do I transfer it to a carboy and let it sit for a couple weeks before bottling?

Lagering refers to the cold storage phase after primary fermentation where the beer clears and conditions. As mentioned lager yeasts are generally best fermented cooler than ale yeasts, like in the 50's, but many of those kits actually use ale yeasts in their "lager" kits. With those instructions I suspect that is the case. Was the yeast that you used marked?

Edit: sorry didn't fully answer your question. Most folks transfer the beer off the yeast cake and to another vessel for lagering (I do it in the keg). I do know some folks without the cold storage space will lager in bottles after carbonating.

 

[reappearhere]

Lagering refers to the cold storage phase after primary fermentation where the beer clears and conditions. As mentioned lager yeasts are generally best fermented cooler than ale yeasts, like in the 50's, but many of those kits actually use ale yeasts in their "lager" kits. With those instructions I suspect that is the case. Was the yeast that you used marked?

Seeing as how my yeast was probably ale yeast, as you concluded (I didn't keep the yeast packet), will lagering make any difference at this point? Also, how low of a temperature are we talking about here?

 

[smiffbrewing]

Do you smell sulphur( egg smell) ?lager tend to throw sulpher especially when fermented warm. If not its an ale strain. If you do i would let it go another week then get it off the yeast. lagering (which translates to cold storage) smooths out the beer. If you can rack it to another vessel and stick it in the fridge for a few weeks it will do wonders for your beer.

 

[soupfist]

Seeing as how my yeast was probably ale yeast, as you concluded (I didn't keep the yeast packet), will lagering make any difference at this point? Also, how low of a temperature are we talking about here?

It doesn't make a difference as far as your initial question about gravity is concerned. Lagering, when it's done for lager style beers, is something that happens after fermentation is over or mostly over. And all it refers to is storing the beer cold (as in just above freezing) for a long period of time before bottling. But as you're almost certainly using ale yeast from what I've read about the aforementioned Munton's kit, just ignore the concept of "lagering" entirely and just let your yeast keep eating until they're done.

On the off chance that the instructions with your kit actually refer to something it calls "lagering" and is instructing you to store it cold before bottling, understand you can certainly "lager" an ale even if the yeast you used was ale yeast, but what happens in the cold will be different depending on the type of yeast. Ale yeast typically goes nite-nite at a temperature well below that of a lager yeast, so likely all that'll happen is the yeast will settle out of your beer in a nice semi-firm cake on the bottom. This is why you might hear it called "cold crashing" when it's an ale instead of "lagering." Lots of ale brewers cold crash regularly to improve the beer clarity. I usually do this in my primary fermenter for 3-5 days before bottling. But you absolutely do NOT want to do this until you hit your final gravity.