Advice on hardwiring STC-1000 into mini-fridge

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Jeff_T

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Hey there, I recently picked back up homebrewing and found my old account here so thought I'd ask the experts.
I recently got a GE min-fridge on CL and have so far removed the door crap so my keg and tank fit in with some room to spare. After this keg kicks I'll be taking out the "freezer" and bending it back. Ultimately I'd like to build a kegerator/ferm chamber. I've actually got an Inkbird IC308 I'm using for ferm temp control now but do not have a suitable cooling solution (currently doing a water bath and it seems to be more of a pain than its worth). I'm going to keep the 308 for TC when the fridge is being used with keg(s). When the fridge is open, it's to hot out or I want to lager I'll use it as a ferm chamber.
With all that said, I'd like to get an STC-1000 to install directly into the fridge door for controlling the temp and completely bypassing the fridge controller/therm. I have an idea how it should be wired but wanted to run it past someone more knowledgeable before bricking the fridge.
I've got a 4.3 cuft fridge that someone here used one as a kegerator and graciously posted some helpful pics instead of me trying to upload (and fail) them.
00specs-57877.jpg

thumb2_03-57880.jpg

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Based on me "researching" and my limited wiring experience, this is what I've come up with: Fridge grey split into 3, to STC #1, #5 and #7. Fridge blue to STC #8. Also installing a computer fan which would be STC #2 and #8. Possibly adding a heating source in the future to STC #2 and #6.

So does this sound logical, where would I be getting the N from fridge to STC #2, and where would I want to ground the fridge (extend fridge green back to frame/compressor area in the back?)?

If I'm completely off with all of this please let me know and I'll just live with the IC308 but, if possible, I'd love a dedicated temp unit for the fridge.
Thanks y'all
 
Actually, you got it right.

A repost of the wiring diagram in a much larger format instead of that dissolving eye test would be helpful, but in the mean time...

- The Gray wire is the hot side of the AC loop. Split that to STC-1K pins 1, 5 and 7.
- The blue wire goes to STC-1K pin 8.
- Referring to your wiring diagram, you need to bring a connection from the WHITE neutral lead to STC-1K pin 2.
- The compressor is already wired to the neutral circuit so you don't need to deal with that as well.

[edit]
- The green wire connected to the thermostat metal case is there only to convey "safety ground" to the thermostat. The other end is wired to the chassis. At this point you can remove the green wire from the thermostat and remove the thermost completely. Nothing special needs to be done to the safety ground wire; coil it up with a wire tie.
- A fan is best run 24/7. While I prefer 120mm 12VDC fans you can get away with the equivalent 120VAC fan, wired across STC-1K pins 1-2.

Cheers!
 
Actually, you got it right.

A repost of the wiring diagram in a much larger format instead of that dissolving eye test would be helpful, but in the mean time...

- The Gray wire is the hot side of the AC loop. Split that to STC-1K pins 1, 5 and 7.
- The blue wire goes to STC-1K pin 8.
- Referring to your wiring diagram, you need to bring a connection from the WHITE neutral lead to STC-1K pin 2.
- The compressor is already wired to the neutral circuit so you don't need to deal with that as well.

[edit]
- The green wire connected to the thermostat metal case is there only to convey "safety ground" to the thermostat. The other end is wired to the chassis. At this point you can remove the green wire from the thermostat and remove the thermost completely. Nothing special needs to be done to the safety ground wire; coil it up with a wire tie.
- A fan is best run 24/7. While I prefer 120mm 12VDC fans you can get away with the equivalent 120VAC fan, wired across STC-1K pins 1-2.

Cheers!

Haha, sorry about the fridge diagram but I know what you mean. I've looked at it so much I think it made my vision worse. And thank you very much for the advice.
I guess my last question would be, do I tap into the white (N) wire in the back near the compressor and then try to run it though a wall or the floor of the fridge?
 
Yeah, that's the challenge here. Run the hot and switched wires out to an external controller, or run the neutral in to an internal location.

Some fridges have a floor drain you might be able to thread a wire through. Otherwise you'll have to find a safe spot to drill a hole through the cabinet...

Cheers!
 
I just did this a few months ago. Best way I can describe it is that I removed the stock thermostate, replaced with the STC-1000 and re-wired at the compressor. I grounded the fridge to the stock bolt in the back by the compressor. I also re used the ground wire from the thermostat as the neutral coming out of the STC to turn on the compressor when needed.
 
- A fan is best run 24/7. While I prefer 120mm 12VDC fans you can get away with the equivalent 120VAC fan, wired across STC-1K pins 1-2.

One final question. I just finished everything up and the controller/fridge are great but I'm having some trouble with a fan. I actually had an old computer case fan lying around that I snipped the end off and I'm trying to use. It's a 12vdc 120mm fan and I've tried it directly into the STC in 1,2 and 2,8 slots and it's not working. I also tried it in the terminal block with the wire corresponding to stc slots 1,2 and 2,8 to no avail. Both wires coming off the fan are black so I'm not sure if I'm wiring it incorrectly or if the fan is possibly dead. Any advice?
Thanks again
 
Rip, I just realized that you cannot hardwire a computer fan into the STC. So my 2 options are getting a 110v fan and hardwiring that or computer fan > power supply > STC, correct?

Edit: just want to confirm, this LED driver would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014MCYN4U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Fan is 12vDC 0.25A, driver is 12v constant/12w max
 
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