Adding IBUs after fermentation - Amber Ale

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eelgerg

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Hello,

I just am about done fermenting a 10 gal batch of Amber Ale, and I'm a tad disappointed at where the bitterness is right now.

I am planning to dry-hop each of the 2x5Gal carboys I have on the go - one with citra and the other with either cascade or wilamette.

I was wondering if there is any way I could steep some hops with a bit of crystal-40 or something and then add that to the fermenter to raise my bitterness? From what beersmith is telling me, I am at the low end of the scale for the style (19.5), and I'd prefer to be up around 35. Call it an oversight during brew day.

I could also just leave it as is and see how it turns out after the dry-hop, which I don't imagine will add much bitterness only hops aroma and flavour.

????????
 
I've had a beer or two turn out less bitter than planned. Carbonation helps a bit with 'perceived' bitterness though and both turned out far more balanced than I had originally thought.
 
Isomerized hop extract.
This will allow you to add bitterness, after boil, or after fermentation.
Just make sure it is isomerized extract. Regular hop extract can only be used preboil as the heat is required to isomerize.
 
There is a technique for doing your bittering hops in a pressure cooker. You will end up with somewhat diluted beer though.

If you're interested and have a pressure cooker, I can try to dig up the link.
 
I should also note that it isn't a technique I've tried personally so I can't vouch for it.
 
[...]I was wondering if there is any way I could steep some hops with a bit of crystal-40 or something and then add that to the fermenter to raise my bitterness? [...]

Many years ago, the Spousal Unit had yet to undergo her Lupulin Shift, and I did a popular wheat beer clone for her - that frankly was insipidly under-bittered to me.

Herself actually agreed it needed a bigger kick (breakthrough! :ban:)

As this was kegged there were options available, so I simmered a half ounce of Magnum for awhile in a couple of cups of water - no malt, just hops 'n' water - chilled it and dumped it in the keg and gave it some gentle swirling.

Totally transformed the brew. The SU loved it, I could enjoy it, it was all good.

Unless the batch is bottled, it's never too late...

Cheers! :mug:
 
I am leaning very strongly towards RDWHAHB and leaving things.

I took the 5 Gal that was fermented with S-04 and put 1oz of citra in it after racking to secondary. We'll see how that turns out after 4 days.

Then, if I'm not happy with the result, I'll try another experiment with the 5 gal that is fermenting with Nottingham. Lots of options. Although I don't have cascade as I mentioned for dry hopping. Only Chinook, wilamette, fuggles, and Goldings and NB available.
 
I added 1.1 oz of citra to secondary with my S-04 batch on Saturday. Hoping to keg it (after sampling) tonight. Then will experiment with dry hops on the other batch (Amber with Notty yeast). Should be interesting!
 
There is a technique for doing your bittering hops in a pressure cooker. You will end up with somewhat diluted beer though.

If you're interested and have a pressure cooker, I can try to dig up the link.

Here you go:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/bittering-hops-in-15-minutes.html

You can absolutely add bitterness post fermentation using a number of methods. You only need about a cup of water, so it's not going to water your beer down much.

The pressure cooker will create the same amount of bitterness in 11 minutes as a 60 minute open boil. Either is fine, your choice.

I prefer to mix up 1 oz samples until I find the ratios I like and then adjust the batch.
 
I was wondering if there is any way I could steep some hops with a bit of crystal-40 or something and then add that to the fermenter to raise my bitterness?

If you use any malts, they must be boiled! Malt is NOT sanitary and must be boiled. FWIW adding more crystal will add a sweetness and lessen perceived bitterness. Carbonation and clearing will help w/ perceived bitterness. Trying to evaluate a young beer can be misleading, sometimes RDWHAHB is warranted :)
 

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