Adding a second 120v element for boil kettle question

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modernlifeisANDY

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So right now, I run a 1500w 120v RIMS tube setup controlled by PID. The toolbox that I mounted my control panel in has plenty of room for an additional element outlet and power switch. After dealing with New England's awful, awful winter and the wind that loves to whip across my porch and mess with my propane burner, I've decided to just go full electric.

Here's my thought. I want to mount two 120v elements in my kettle - either a 1500w and 2000w or dual 1500w elements - and put them on separate circuits. I brew 5g batches, which leads me to boil around 9g total. I know that neither element on its own will boil that amount of liquid in any sort of decent time. I'm thinking that I will install a second element plug in my panel to control an additional 1500w element, and wire up a switch so that I can toggle which element is being controlled by PID. I'd also need to replace my current auto-only PID with a PID that offers manual control.

I would perform my mash cycle as usual using the RIMS and PID. Halfway through, I would plug in the 2000w kettle-mounted element directly to its own 20A circuit to begin heating my sparge water. When the mash is finished, I'd shut off power to the RIMS element and switch power to the 1500w kettle-mounted element, then switch the PID to manual mode and run it at 100% so that my kettle is getting 100% power from the 2000w element and 100% power from the 1500w element. Once I reach a boil, I use the PID to throttle back the 1500w element to maintain a nice boil in the 9g or so of wort.

Is this idea feasible? Would this wattage be enough for 9g? I've seen similar threads but most of them don't seem to involve "plug and play" elements.

Thanks!
 
It's workable I suppose. I would just stick with 2000w elements if you want to keep 120v. Also I would just keep your existing PID and add an Auberins DSPR1 to control both elements via 2 SSR's. This way you won't have a need for plugging and unplugging elements and you really don't need a PID for the boil anyway. (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444)

Depending on the rating of the circuit you normally use for brewing, you may not be able to run 3 elements at once but 2 should be no problem. All you would have to do is hook-up a simple toggle switch between the two heating SSR's so you only use one as you preheat your sparge water and then both for the boil.
 
It's workable I suppose. I would just stick with 2000w elements if you want to keep 120v. Also I would just keep your existing PID and add an Auberins DSPR1 to control both elements via 2 SSR's. This way you won't have a need for plugging and unplugging elements and you really don't need a PID for the boil anyway. (http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_30&products_id=444)

Depending on the rating of the circuit you normally use for brewing, you may not be able to run 3 elements at once but 2 should be no problem. All you would have to do is hook-up a simple toggle switch between the two heating SSR's so you only use one as you preheat your sparge water and then both for the boil.
 
That Auberins DSPR1 is interesting - I didn't know they made those. I probably wasn't clear enough in my OP, but the issue is that the 1500w element currently controlled by my PID is mounted in my RIMS tube, not in my kettle. So either way, one of the kettle elements will need to be plug-and-play.
 
I run two 1500w 120v elements in my BK. I just leave both on fully through out the boil, it never really gets outta hand. The only down side I see is a little extra time to get to the boil.

What are your typical boil volumes? I wouldn't have a problem with the time really, because I'm exchanging extra time for an easier setup and cleanup - plus I can brew when it rains! Do you find that 2 1500w elements give you a decent rolling boil?
 
I boil a little over 7 or so gallons at a time and the two elements have no problem holding a great rolling boil. During hot break and hops addidtions, I just unplug one element briefly to avoid a boil over. Once its calmed again, I plug the second element back in.

One thing I will say though, is when its really cold I brew in my apartment and not on the balcony. So I don't know how well my set-up would boil in winter-ish weather. I kinda doubt it would boil at all, maybe with a bunch of insulation around the pot...
 
I boil a little over 7 or so gallons at a time and the two elements have no problem holding a great rolling boil. During hot break and hops addidtions, I just unplug one element briefly to avoid a boil over. Once its calmed again, I plug the second element back in.

One thing I will say though, is when its really cold I brew in my apartment and not on the balcony. So I don't know how well my set-up would boil in winter-ish weather. I kinda doubt it would boil at all, maybe with a bunch of insulation around the pot...

Yeah I'm hoping to be brewing entirely indoors. My only concern is the 9g boil volume that I usually use.
 
Honstly, I don't think you'd have a problem getting or holding a boil. It'd just take you longer to get there with more volume. I can almost boil 6 gallons of water with my 1000w heat stick and we're talking at least 3 times that power, more if one element is a 2000w'er...
 
That Auberins DSPR1 is interesting - I didn't know they made those. I probably wasn't clear enough in my OP, but the issue is that the 1500w element currently controlled by my PID is mounted in my RIMS tube, not in my kettle. So either way, one of the kettle elements will need to be plug-and-play.

How are your elements mounted?
 
Kettle geometry will also play a factor in how many watts you need, wider kettles sucking up more wattage. for 9 gallon boils, 3000w may be a little timid IME.

I would use at least one, if not two at 2000w. If you have 2, 20 amp circuits, I see no reason to limit yourself with 1500w elements.
 
Kettle geometry will also play a factor in how many watts you need, wider kettles sucking up more wattage. for 9 gallon boils, 3000w may be a little timid IME.

I would use at least one, if not two at 2000w. If you have 2, 20 amp circuits, I see no reason to limit yourself with 1500w elements.

Yeah, I've changed my plans a bit since the wife okayed me adding a slop sink in the basement. I'm going to set up my workbench down there as a brew bench. My current RIMS setup will run off 120v and I will use my dryer outlet to run a 240v 5500w element in the kettle, controlled by an Auber dial, for the boil.
 

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