Add a Hop Bong to a 30L Speidel

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agentbud

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I want to add a Hop Bong (2" TC) to the top of my 30L Speidel fermenter. The existing OEM top is that orange lid with the proprietary threads, so I doubt there is an adapter for that. Anyone have a good idea on how to add 2" TC to the lid of one of these fermenters?
 
What about these? I don't how the lid of the Speidel is on the inside. You may need to add a washer to keep from rupturing the gasket or chewing up the inside of the lid since it's plastic. I use a 1.5" version on one of my kegs and it has no problem keeping a seal.

2" TC Bulkhead

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I envisioned something like the one shown below where the female threads were the correct size to screw on to the top lid where the air-lock or cap would normally fit. I have no idea what size threads speidel uses there. Anyone know?
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I want to add a Hop Bong (2" TC) to the top of my 30L Speidel fermenter. The existing OEM top is that orange lid with the proprietary threads, so I doubt there is an adapter for that. Anyone have a good idea on how to add 2" TC to the lid of one of these fermenters?
I'd be very careful doing this. That 2" butterfly valve from KegLand uses a decent bit of force to open. If you are only bracing against the hop bong to open the valve you may be able to get away with it, if you are bracing against the fermenter you will snap something.
 
I'd be very careful doing this. That 2" butterfly valve from KegLand uses a decent bit of force to open. If you are only bracing against the hop bong to open the valve you may be able to get away with it, if you are bracing against the fermenter you will snap something
Thanks. I have a different valve on mine from the one kegland offers. using 2 hands I can open/close it without putting undue pressure on the connections
 
So, I emailed Speidel directly to ask them what size threads they use. They were nice but refused to tell me. The guy wished me luck and hoped I could find a way to add the TC but he still would not tell me the thread size. I don't get that at all. Why would they care if someone knows the thread size? There's more than one way to deal with proprietary threads - I chopped them off with a Dremel and inserted a TC bulkhead into the resulting hole. I even had space left over (just barely) to add a thermowell and a blow-off 90 onto the lid. It was tight but I am now able to add my hop bong on top.
ps - thanks @Yesfan for the suggestion on the bulkhead.
 

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So, I emailed Speidel directly to ask them what size threads they use. They were nice but refused to tell me. The guy wished me luck and hoped I could find a way to add the TC but he still would not tell me the thread size. I don't get that at all. Why would they care if someone knows the thread size? There's more than one way to deal with proprietary threads - I chopped them off with a Dremel and inserted a TC bulkhead into the resulting hole. I even had space left over (just barely) to add a thermowell and a blow-off 90 onto the lid. It was tight but I am now able to add my hop bong on top.
ps - thanks @Yesfan for the suggestion on the bulkhead.
I was going to suggest you reach out to @Jaybird from NorCal Brewing Solutions. He specializes in making Speidel fermenter add-ons. But it looks like you came up with your own solution. Excellent!! I also have one of the 30L fermenters from Speidel myself.
 
I was going to suggest you reach out to @Jaybird from NorCal Brewing Solutions. He specializes in making Speidel fermenter add-ons. But it looks like you came up with your own solution. Excellent!! I also have one of the 30L fermenters from Speidel myself.
I had previously reached out to NorCal. The only fittings they had would adapt the lid to TC only had a 1" opening and I didn't feel that was wide enough for the hops to drop through without possibly getting clogged.
 
So, I emailed Speidel directly to ask them what size threads they use. They were nice but refused to tell me. The guy wished me luck and hoped I could find a way to add the TC but he still would not tell me the thread size. I don't get that at all. Why would they care if someone knows the thread size? There's more than one way to deal with proprietary threads - I chopped them off with a Dremel and inserted a TC bulkhead into the resulting hole. I even had space left over (just barely) to add a thermowell and a blow-off 90 onto the lid. It was tight but I am now able to add my hop bong on top.
ps - thanks @Yesfan for the suggestion on the bulkhead.
Ohh this is so cool! Nice job!

Cheers
Jay
 
Ohh this is so cool! Nice job!

Cheers
Jay
In the end this worked as planned but a problem I had was that the bulkhead, thermowell and blow-off 90 were so close together that I had a REALLY hard time getting the TC clamp on and off of the bulkhead where the hop bong attached. It would be easier if the thermowell and blow-off 90 were not in the way but I wanted those included. I went back to the drawing board and think I have come up with a better design. The new design does not involve cutting the threads off. Using a common plumbing piece, I believe I have a way to connect the bulkhead directly to the existing threads of the Speidel lid. When I empty that fermenter this weekend I will be able to put it all together and test. If it works as intended, I'll post an update.
 
I found a piece of PVC that is a sink p-trap extension piece that fits tightly in one of the Speidel spigot locking rings. it has a flange on one end that seals to the locking ring gasket and I was able to then use a plumbing locking ring and gaskets on the other end to screw on the TC bulkhead. The plumbing ring and the bulkhead had slightly different threads but when using 2 plumbing gaskets, it sealed it up tight. This allowed plenty of room for a thermowell, blow-off 90 and a CO2 QD in the lid. I added pressure and the seal held up fine
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I found a better/easier/cleaner way to do this. I bought one of the new fermzilla tri-clamp lids. The inner seal of that lid is too small so it does not seal into the opening of the Speidel, but the flange of the tri-clamp lid matches the lip of the speidel opening so if you add the original speidel o-ring onto the flange of the tri-clamp lid, then use the speidel locking ring, it seals it down onto the top lip of the opening. I added pressure and so far it is holding fine. this gives me the ability to add my hop bong as well as have the built-in PRV and additional ports in a more accessible layout
 

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I found a piece of PVC that is a sink p-trap extension piece that fits tightly in one of the Speidel spigot locking rings. it has a flange on one end that seals to the locking ring gasket and I was able to then use a plumbing locking ring and gaskets on the other end to screw on the TC bulkhead. The plumbing ring and the bulkhead had slightly different threads but when using 2 plumbing gaskets, it sealed it up tight. This allowed plenty of room for a thermowell, blow-off 90 and a CO2 QD in the lid. I added pressure and the seal held up fineView attachment 829360View attachment 829359View attachment 829358View attachment 829357e.

Very nice, good write up as well.
 
I found a better/easier/cleaner way to do this. I bought one of the new fermzilla tri-clamp lids. The inner seal of that lid is too small so it does not seal into the opening of the Speidel, but the flange of the tri-clamp lid matches the lip of the speidel opening so if you add the original speidel o-ring onto the flange of the tri-clamp lid, then use the speidel locking ring, it seals it down onto the top lip of the opening. I added pressure and so far it is holding fine. this gives me the ability to add my hop bong as well as have the built-in PRV and additional ports in a more accessible layout

Based on your solution here I ordered the fermzilla lid that has a center bubbler hole and 2 male threaded posts for adapters - not the hop bong lid like yours. Is there a trick to getting it to seal? I've added the white Speidel o-ring to the fermzilla lid (under it and next to supplied thin red o-ring), but can't get it to seal well. The white o-ring sort of partly sinks into the opening. Another possible problem contributing to poor sealing is that the ferm lid rocks slightly if set on the opening with no o-ring.. like something isn't quite flat. I may have to just start modifying the Speidel lid if I can't figure this out. Thanks!
 
Based on your solution here I ordered the fermzilla lid that has a center bubbler hole and 2 male threaded posts for adapters - not the hop bong lid like yours. Is there a trick to getting it to seal? I've added the white Speidel o-ring to the fermzilla lid (under it and next to supplied thin red o-ring), but can't get it to seal well. The white o-ring sort of partly sinks into the opening. Another possible problem contributing to poor sealing is that the ferm lid rocks slightly if set on the opening with no o-ring.. like something isn't quite flat. I may have to just start modifying the Speidel lid if I can't figure this out. Thanks!
I've got mine on an active fermentation right now but when it is done in about a week I will take some detailed pics. All I did was add the large o-ring that came with the Speidel lid to the fermzilla lid. When I then set that lid onto the Speidel opening, that o-ring matched up to the top of the Speidel opening, I then used the original Speidel clamping ring to tighten it down. It sealed up perfectly. Again, I'll upload some pics in about a week when I can take the lid off.
 
I've got mine on an active fermentation right now but when it is done in about a week I will take some detailed pics. All I did was add the large o-ring that came with the Speidel lid to the fermzilla lid. When I then set that lid onto the Speidel opening, that o-ring matched up to the top of the Speidel opening, I then used the original Speidel clamping ring to tighten it down. It sealed up perfectly. Again, I'll upload some pics in about a week when I can take the lid off.
Thanks much! You had a good explanation.. I just wasn't having success - maybe my opening is a tad bigger so the Speidel o-ring doesn't quite fit on top, though it does seal well with the standard Speidel lid. I can try again.. maybe wasn't careful enough.
 
I've got mine on an active fermentation right now but when it is done in about a week I will take some detailed pics. All I did was add the large o-ring that came with the Speidel lid to the fermzilla lid. When I then set that lid onto the Speidel opening, that o-ring matched up to the top of the Speidel opening, I then used the original Speidel clamping ring to tighten it down. It sealed up perfectly. Again, I'll upload some pics in about a week when I can take the lid off.
Hey agentbud, I got the lid sealed up good enough I think thanks to you. I blew on it with my lung power anyway and it held.. probably good enough for what I want. What I did was take a hand plane (woodworking tool) to the top of the Speidel and leveled it out. It was not level... dipped at the seams. So I'm all good. You could still share images later is so inclined - that's always good. But no worries! /jd
 
I found a better/easier/cleaner way to do this. I bought one of the new fermzilla tri-clamp lids. The inner seal of that lid is too small so it does not seal into the opening of the Speidel, but the flange of the tri-clamp lid matches the lip of the speidel opening so if you add the original speidel o-ring onto the flange of the tri-clamp lid, then use the speidel locking ring, it seals it down onto the top lip of the opening. I added pressure and so far it is holding fine. this gives me the ability to add my hop bong as well as have the built-in PRV and additional ports in a more accessible layout
This is what's up. A big help for me, so thanks for poking around and coming up with this solution!
 
Hey agentbud, I got the lid sealed up good enough I think thanks to you. I blew on it with my lung power anyway and it held.. probably good enough for what I want. What I did was take a hand plane (woodworking tool) to the top of the Speidel and leveled it out. It was not level... dipped at the seams. So I'm all good. You could still share images later is so inclined - that's always good. But no worries! /jd
Ok, here are the pics. 1) shows the fermzilla lid with the white o-ring that comes with it. That o-ring does not help but I left it on anyway. Notice the lid has a flange that sticks out past the o-ring. 2) shows the yellow o-ring that came with the Speidel lid. It sits right on that flange. 3) shows the fermzilla lid set on to the speidel opening. The yellow o-ring matches the top of that opening. 4) use the original speidel locking ring to clamp it down. Hope that helps.

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