Adapter for O2 regulator to ball lock post

[Golddiggie]

I've been using the same regulator (and O2 bottle) for ages. I like the regulator since it's easy to set to different L/min levels via the knob on the end. In the past I've been using it with an O2 wand (stainless wand, with the stone welded to it), also purchased ages ago (early 2011 IIRC).

Now, I plan to use the SSBrewTech O2 infusion item at the plate chiller (chilled wort out). I stopped off at AirGas on Friday on my way home from the LHBS in Trashua (NH). No dice on ANYTHING that would allow me to connect the tubing needed. No dice there. No fittings that will mate to the regulator with either a 3/8" or 5/15" barb. Or even 1/4" NPT fitting. Hell, even a 1/4" MFL would have worked. Since it was 'nope' across the board I figured "screw it, I'll MAKE something."

So here's the second one I made. First was longer than it needed to be by about 3/4". So I cut another piece of brass round stock and made the second one. It's 1-3/8" long. Made from 7/8" brass round bar. I machined the flats on it for use with a standard 3/4" wrench (because F metric).

I used an square ER40 collet holder to do all the machining. If I make another, I'll set up the rotary table with it's 3 jaw chuck to hold it while boring and tapping the holes. I did pick up the tap I needed for the regulator fitting, along with the correct size drill bit. I already had the 1/4" NPT tap and end mills the correct size for that hole.

I did a leak check on the brass adapter and it passed without issue. I did apply some Teflon tape as insurance.

I've already put a length of 5/16" gas tubing onto the SSBrewTech hardware. That was a piece that I already had a swivel nut on.

Now I'll be able to simply use a gas QD on either O2 infusion item I'm going to use for what I'm making and not need to deal with anything else.

 

[DuncB]

Could you please do a picture of the gas injector bit ( SS Brewtech ) so i Could see the stone layout etc?
As it takes several minutes to fill the fermenter how do you get your oxygen flow slow enough for that duration? OR do you just turn the oxygen on at the end?.

 

[Golddiggie]

Pictures are on the SSBrewTech site. Inline Oxygenation Kit

I'll be using it for the first time in the coming batch. My plan is to set it at in the .5 L/min and allow it to do the job. Since my chill times are sub 10 minutes, even for the 12 gallon to keg batch we brewed last (about 13.25-13.5 gallons into fermenter) I'm not worried. The yeast LOVE O2 at the start. When they're replicating/growing count they need the O2 to build healthy/strong cell walls. It also means less stressed yeast, which means they'll do a better job for you. Not to mention, a faster ferment time. That 12 gallon batch (English IPA) was done fermenting in about 7 days (or sometime in the 5-7 day range). I use the temperature of the beer to tell me when it's done. When it reaches ambient temperature, there's no more yeast activity, so it's done. That doesn't mean it will get transferred out of fermenter just yet. I like to give batches at least three weeks (total time) in fermenter before they go to carbonating/serving keg. The extra 1-2 weeks gives the yeast time to flocculate out and settled down.

 

[DuncB]

Thanks for that. Yes I just oxygenate with wand, just started on last few batches and the yeast does go crazy for it. I tend to secondary ferment the ales I do so that they condition and clear in the cask before going on the engine.
I did think too much oxygen could be toxic to the yeast ( it is for us after all).

 

[Golddiggie]

I don't think it's possible for us to give the yeast too much O2. Well, without being stupid at least. There's a reason why breweries use the same in-line method for infusing O2 before the yeast goes in.

I typically give bigger beers more O2 than lighter beers. For the lower OG batches (sub 1.060) I usually give 90-120 (roughly) seconds of O2 at 1.5 L/min flow rate through the stone. Higher OG batches get either more time, or higher flow rates (or both). Never had a single negative reaction from this. Well, other than hyperactive yeast fermenting the batches.

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a pair of Spike CF10 conical fermenters. I'll be getting the carbonation stone and gas manifold setup as well. Also the hardware to connect up a glycol chiller to either/both of them to chill the batches and carbonate IN conical. I do plan to dump the yeast post fermentation. That will serve more than one purpose. For one, it will make harvesting yeast for future batches much easier. For another, removing the yeast cake from the batch before chilling (in fermenter, which will also cold crash yeast out of suspension) will mean it won't be kicked back up when I carbonate in the fermenter. I'm hoping that we'll be able to can directly from fermenter this way. I will be pulling part of the batch for the keezer to have on tap. Then the rest gets canned for sharing.

 

[DuncB]

Yep you shouldn't have any problem at all with that plan. I use the fermentasaurus, couple of days free venting at the begin of ferment if I want a lot of expression then turn on the spunding valve. If I'm making something that I want neutral then I start with a few psi and then Rack up the pressure towards the end of fermentation with the reading to the vols I want for final carb + a little bit more. Use the spare gas to flush the kegs and then cold crash. I Drop the yeast as I get the bottle filled in the fermentasaurus even if it's 3 days into ferment and save what I need you really get to see the good creamy yeast that way.
Then closed pressure fill the keg and the remnants I counter pressure bottle fill with the Williams warn counter pressure filler.
Works a treat.
Floating dip tube helps as well then "testing" is easy !