A IPA latest recipe

[Andyy]

Well after some thought decided to ignor all recipes and make my own would like some comments on what I've brewed! Ok here we go.
Muttons IPA extract
Black Rock Dark liquid malt exact
150grm Cyrastal grain steped - 30m
50grm Chinook - 30m
30grm Warrior - 30m
25grm amarillo - 15m
20grm cascade - 15m
15grm fuggles - 10m
1kg dextrose
160 corn syrup
OG came out to 1.072

 

[Calder]

Very bitter and thin.

I assume this is a 5 gallon batch (5 US Gallons). 1 kg of dextrose (corn sugar) is roughly 16 points per gallon, or about 25% of the fermentables. You also have a line that says corn sugar, but can't understand the quantity, and wonder why it's there since dextrose is also corn sugar.

 

[Andyy]

160grams sorry
Had this left over from another brew thought I'd through it in

What you'd reckon will improve this??

 

[Andyy]

30 litres was the total volume

 

[Calder]

30 liters is about 8 US gallons. That makes the simple sugar content about 15%. It's a little high, but OK. Will help with attenuation.

The big issue is that all the malt flavor is in the Dark LME, and you have no idea what is in it. It could have simple sugars (probably not), it may have dark crystal, may have black, may have chocolate, may have just coloring. The big problem with anything but the lightest extracts is you just don't know what is in them.

Black or Roasted malts don't really belong in IPAs, but you might have them by virtue of the Dark LME.

5 ozs of Crystal in 8 gallons is really low, but we are back to the unknowns in the Dark LME.

Good luck, it may turn out fine due to the volume, I take back my original comment of being thin. It may now be under-hopped for an IPA. And, you might find it does not have the body you want.

For the future, you have more control of the beer if you use light/Pilsner/Extra-Light/Pale extract and add the specialty grains (Crystal, Chocolate, Black, Roast, Special B, etc) yourself.

 

[IdoNisso]

Combined with all that has already been said,
I don't think the hop bill is optimal.
IMO, add hops on the 'classic' markers - 60, 30, 15, 5.
A nice addition to those is 1 minute boil and/or flame-out.

If you want the beer to be more American IPA styled, then add about 60 grams dry hops for 5-7 days in secondary.
If you're not a MEGA-BITTER-BEER fan like I am, try aiming for 40-60 IBUs, it seems that's a nice place for English-styled classic IPAs.

The way I see it, IPAs are all about hop flavors. I'd keep my grains and extract as basic as possible and add all the variety in the hops.

EDIT:
Only now I see you've already brewed it
I'd definently add some dry hops for 7 days.

 

[Andyy]

When dry hopping please explain this process

 

[Calder]

The way I see it, IPAs are all about hop flavors. I'd keep my grains and extract as basic as possible and add all the variety in the hops.

IPAs are traditionally heavily hopped to provide protection for the beer to survive the trip from England to India by ship. By the time they were consumed much of the hop flavor and aroma were gone.

The English version should be more malty, while the American version (being a commercialized copy) should be more hoppy.

Dry hopping is just adding some hops (an oz or more) straight to the fermenter about a week to 10 days prior to bottling. No special prep required, just toss them in.

 

[Andyy]

Ok so it's been a week in the primary then 1 week in secondary dry hopped with
25grms chinook,
50grms warrior,
25grms cascade
I'm going to bottle this beer tomorrow, smells and tastes right on the money the FG I checked yesterday was sittin at 1.010