A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Fermenter

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Iowa Brewer

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Hey all,

Brewed an English Ale, today (Northern), for which I totally messed up my sparge calculation (to say math is not my strong point would be an understatement!). As the boil was going I thought the level looked a bit low, but I'm kinda new to this, being my 8th brew day, and there was no backstepping, so on I went.

When I poured the beer into my Big Mouth Bubbler, it came as little shock that I was at 4.5 or so gallons. Wondering what to do, I searched the forums on here and found a common view: if the OG is right, don't mess with it. And low-and-behold! I was right where I'd wanted it: 1.054(ish). I aerated, pitched my Imperial A09 Pub yeast, and now, 5.5hrs later, the bubbler is going and a kreutzen is forming.

When I told my wife she rolled her eyes and said, 4+ gallons of beer not enough for you?!
Well... no, obviously, but I get her point.

All and all though, I was surprised to hit the OG on target.
Does being low/high on volume but hitting the OG happen with some frequency?
 
Hey all,

Brewed an English Ale, today (Northern), for which I totally messed up my sparge calculation (to say math is not my strong point would be an understatement!). As the boil was going I thought the level looked a bit low, but I'm kinda new to this, being my 8th brew day, and there was no backstepping, so on I went.

When I poured the beer into my Big Mouth Bubbler, it came as little shock that I was at 4.5 or so gallons. Wondering what to do, I searched the forums on here and found a common view: if the OG is right, don't mess with it. And low-and-behold! I was right where I'd wanted it: 1.054(ish). I aerated, pitched my Imperial A09 Pub yeast, and now, 5.5hrs later, the bubbler is going and a kreutzen is forming.

When I told my wife she rolled her eyes and said, 4+ gallons of beer not enough for you?!
Well... no, obviously, but I get her point.

All and all though, I was surprised to hit the OG on target.
Does being low/high on volume but hitting the OG happen with some frequency?

Make some marks on your boil kettle to indicate different amounts like every half gallon. When you drain the mash tun you will then be able to tell how much you collected and how much more you need for sparging to get the correct pre-boil amount. Since your grain is already saturated it does not absorb any more so what you add for sparging is what you get back out.
 
Make some marks on your boil kettle to indicate different amounts like every half gallon. When you drain the mash tun you will then be able to tell how much you collected and how much more you need for sparging to get the correct pre-boil amount. Since your grain is already saturated it does not absorb any more so what you add for sparging is what you get back out.

That's a great idea, RM-MN, thanks!
 
Get your volumes right like RM-MN suggested, but either lower your efficiency expectation or figure out why your efficiency was lower than expected or you will have the right volume, but a low OG.
 
I would suggest dialing in your own personal system constants (boil off rate, absorption, dead space, etc.). That way future brews will be more predictable. To do this, though, you'd have to take detailed measurements at MANY steps during a brew day, for a few brew days in a row.

Even something as simple as an excel sheet can be a lifesaver. Let me know if you'd like to see/use mine. Brewing software does all that stuff, but an excel sheet (i've found) can be more trustworthy and quick.
 
Sparge calculations are for frustrated scientists . . . . Ok, that's not even close to being true, but it helps me justify my somewhat rustic approach to sparging. As Garret says above, I've dialed in my process and know my boil off rate, so know the total volume of wort I need to start the boil. So I sparge until I get there. I use a wooden measuring stick that I've marked every gallon off.
 
I too don't pay any attention to the amount of sparge water. I know my boil off rate so I know how much wort I have to collect from the mash and the sparge. I measure the mash runnings then I know how much more I need. I need 7.25 gallons preboil so if I get 2.25 from the mash I know I need 5 more gallons. I then split the sparge in 2 to be accurate. So I would sparge 2.5 or 3 in a first sparge then measure again. The final sparge is just what I need to get to the 7.25 gallons. This leaves very little wort behind in the grain. It also makes the spent grain lighter for disposal.

This is for batch sparging. I have never had the patience or the proper equipment for fly sparging.
 
I would suggest dialing in your own personal system constants (boil off rate, absorption, dead space, etc.). That way future brews will be more predictable. To do this, though, you'd have to take detailed measurements at MANY steps during a brew day, for a few brew days in a row.

Even something as simple as an excel sheet can be a lifesaver. Let me know if you'd like to see/use mine. Brewing software does all that stuff, but an excel sheet (i've found) can be more trustworthy and quick.

Hey, thanks, cactusgarrett! Yeah, I need to get on doing that.
 
I too don't pay any attention to the amount of sparge water. I know my boil off rate so I know how much wort I have to collect from the mash and the sparge. I measure the mash runnings then I know how much more I need. I need 7.25 gallons preboil so if I get 2.25 from the mash I know I need 5 more gallons. I then split the sparge in 2 to be accurate. So I would sparge 2.5 or 3 in a first sparge then measure again. The final sparge is just what I need to get to the 7.25 gallons. This leaves very little wort behind in the grain. It also makes the spent grain lighter for disposal.

This is for batch sparging. I have never had the patience or the proper equipment for fly sparging.

Cheers, kh53s10!
Yeah, I can't see myself fly sparging. This is helpful. I need to get my calculations down.
 
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