I think headspace in a settling tank is irrelevant, if you re-establish the CO2 blanket after the transfer, which is what I do.
I don't have any oxidation problems even though I use 6.5G fermentors for both primary and secondary.
+1 on that Dave Miller's book, I also really like his no-nonsense approach.
The OP:
"I have found that I have far less junk in the bottom of the bottle when I use a secondary between primary and bottling."
Why would you get off flavours from the trub at the homebrew scale and on typical brewing timelines?
What off flavours could possibly manifest at the homebrew scale in the first few weeks of sitting on the yeast/trub?
I'm not trying to be argumentative, I'm an open-minded guy. I'm just saying, "show me some evidence." So far, I haven't seen any evidence at all, just a bunch of conjecture and dogma.
That is the very reason I began questioning the prevailing wisdom of bottling straight from the primary fermenting vessel.
if I choose to move the beer off the yeast cake and let it settle again before bottling, there is far less of that crud in the bottles.
QuercusMax said:When you say "bottling straight from the primary", do you mean you're siphoning directly from your primary into the bottles, and not using a bottling bucket? That seems like a fantastic way to put a ton of junk into your beer. I don't think anybody recommends doing *that*.
If you aren't using a bottling bucket, then the results (in terms of clarity) from using a secondary will probably be similar to those of people who use a bottling bucket and no secondary.
yes, of course. assume the person you're talking to has no idea how to make beer, it is the only way to be internet social.
i don't know anyone who doesn't use a bottling bucket, experienced or inexperienced.
Adding priming sugar to a primary is a pretty obvious way to get a lot of sediment in the bottle, but bottle priming is not all that unusual and can be done without disturbing the trub.I've also read a few threads, and watched several youtube videos, of people saying they stir their priming sugar into their primary bucket and siphon directly into bottles.
I think the fine point here is going from primary to a KEG vs BOTTLING from primary.
To my recollection - Miller doesn't bottle at all and actually recommends getting a kegging system from day 1.
Those arguments were so persuasive that UPS has made a couple of deliveries of big boxes to my home over the last few days.
My process, which is extremely similar to everyone else's process, is vastly superior due to the very minor differences in my process. Those who use a very similar process to mine, with very minor differences, are completely wrong and worthy of derision.
As sergeant Hulka said, "lighten up Francis".
my fg stabilized at 1.010 for a while. of course i take hydrometer samples before racking. maybe you shouldn't assume the person you're talking to is a total novice if you really don't want to appear to come off "harsh".
my experimentation came from this post earlier in the discussion
i was using someone else's method for the sake of seeing what happens first hand. now i am telling you i didn't like the results. that's my conclusion.
um, obviously not. didn't i say this was an experiment and that i normally use a secondary? my beers spend 3+ weeks fermenting, normally. i will say again, this was an experiment.
My beers spend 10-14 days in the fermenter, and then are kegged. They are crystal clear, with little sediment. I think that there are more than a few keys to this, though. One is simply having clear wort to start with- a great mash and kettle pH, a good hot break, a good cold break, and then pitching the proper amount of yeast at the proper temperature and maintaining that. Once FG is reached, the beer is given about 3 days to ensure it's done and is clear (or at least clearing quite well). Then it is dryhopped if I'm dryhopping.
I'm an old winemaker, and so am extremely proficient with racking and not picking up any trub or hops debris at all.
That means my beer is generally totally clear while being kegged.
When you say "bottling straight from the primary", do you mean you're siphoning directly from your primary into the bottles, and not using a bottling bucket? That seems like a fantastic way to put a ton of junk into your beer. I don't think anybody recommends doing *that*.
If you aren't using a bottling bucket, then the results (in terms of clarity) from using a secondary will probably be similar to those of people who use a bottling bucket and no secondary.
I chose to begin using a secondary vessel to get the beer clear of the 1 1/2" of yeast cake so there would be less to end up in the bottle. A period of clearing/settling (call it a secondary, settling or bright tank as you like) yielded about 1/4" of stuff in the bottom of that vessel. When racking off of that into a bottling bucket you end up with about nothing in the bottle. To me this doesn't seem to be rocket science but it does appear to be a stumbling point for a lot of people.
You brewed on 1/25/14, dry hopped on 2/1/14 and bottled on 2/8/14. To me that comes out to be 14 days. Do you normally leave your beer in the fermenter for 7 days, dry hop in the secondary for 7, and come out with crystal clear beer?
um, obviously not. didn't i say this was an experiment and that i normally use a secondary? my beers spend 3+ weeks fermenting, normally. i will say again, this was an experiment.
I chose to begin using a secondary vessel to get the beer clear of the 1 1/2" of yeast cake so there would be less to end up in the bottle.
A period of clearing/settling (call it a secondary, settling or bright tank as you like) yielded about 1/4" of stuff in the bottom of that vessel.
When racking off of that into a bottling bucket you end up with about nothing in the bottle.
Ahhhh...good morning homebrew world.
I see we've made 11 pages of tomato vs. tomahto.
Nobody says tomahto.
And all I'm asking for is a logical, scientific explanation for how moving beer off the yeast cake results in clearer beer.
If you rack from a bucket that has a lot of trub you will bring over more than if you rack form a bucket with less trub.
Then after the trub settles (in your secondary/bright tank) when you rack off that, you will bring over still less trub.
>.So, to be clear, the beer itself is no clearer. It's merely a function of how much of the sediment at the bottom you're "sucking up" with your racking cane/autosiphon.
Correct - buts it's not just a few ounces.
>>f you start at the top and work your way down, keeping the siphon tip just below the surface of the beer as you go (the recommended technique), then you'll be transferring equally clear beer (whether you used a secondary or not) until you get down to the last few ounces just above the bed of sediment, at which point you must either carefully keep the siphon tip just below the surface of the beer and above the sediment, or stop siphoning altogether and leave those last few ounces.
Correct.
>>If you do that (which is the proper siphoning technique anyway), then there is no clarity advantage.
When I rack, and the end of the cane approaches the trub, I frequently get in some beer that has some trub mixed it. I also have to tip the bucket, otherwise I leave behind a lot of beer.
If you don't tip the bucket, and don't mind losing several beers, then you are probably fine, and don't need to rack to a secondary.
I wouldn't secondary just for clarity, I'd do it if I wanted to age the beer for a while and didn't want to sitting on the yeast for a long time. (talking many weeks, not days). Gordon Strong once wrote about not always wanting his beer to sit on yeast for a long time taht it can gradually pick up off flavors.
Nobody says tomahto.
And all I'm asking for is a logical, scientific explanation for how moving beer off the yeast cake results in clearer beer.
How would putting the beer in a secondary allow it to age any better than a keg or bottles?
... since the majority of o2 absorption will occur on the exposed surface of the beer the best way to minimize that absorption is to minimize the exposure through reducing the total surface area exposed. By moving the beer to a more confined space for that maturing period will reduce that surface area thus reducing the exposure to o2.
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