A Brewing Water Chemistry Primer

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Regarding temperature to measure mash pH. I have always used room temperature, which I define as 20 to 25C, for several reasons. First one calibrates ones pH meter using control solutions at RT, so the most accurate measurement well be that made at the calibration temp. Second, only expensive pH meters have internal temperature compensation (are you sure yours does, how accurate is the compensation, why take the chance?). Third, I don't like sticking a pH meter in my hot mash. Forth, if a hot sample is used it will cool to some intermediate temp of unknown value leading to inconsistency of measurment. I keep a medium sized metal pot at room temperature, then draw a small mash sample (~1/2 oz.) which I swirl around the pot. The sample quickly cools to room temperature allowing an accurate, stable, and consistent pH measurement to be made.

Over the years I have noticed a large range of pH values stated in the literature. I have rarely seen the temperature at which the measurement was made stated. This is unfortunate. Generally, if the author is a professional brewer then RT can be assumed for the reasons stated above. Not all authors are practicing professional brewers.
 
Second, only expensive pH meters have internal temperature compensation (are you sure yours does, how accurate is the compensation, why take the chance?).
That's no longer true. Even meters under $100 have it. And as the algorithm is very simple it is not the correction itself that is inaccurate but rather the fact that the algorithm depends on the meter knowing the isoelectric pH of the electrode. If the electrode does not meet the spec for pHi (6.5 < pHi < 7.5) then ATC still works but you must specify the correct pHi to the meter and I've never seen a meter that lets you do that. That, I suppose, could be taken as an assurance that it is rare indeed that an electrode comes off the line with a pHi outside that range but see the next paragraph. There is a simple check you can do on this as spelled out in Step 11b of the pH meter calibration Sticky.

High $ is not a guarantee that the electrode will meet spec. I have a rather expensive one that is way off (pHi = 8.3). It is an otherwise fine electrode. I've had it for years and while it's response is slowing somewhat slope is still at 99% and offset a couple of mV at most and it holds cal for days. Perfectly useable for same temperature calibration and sample but if I am going to use it over a temperature range I have to do the ATC in a connected computer. The internal cal will have me off by over 0.1 pH for less than dramatic temperature variations.

That said, the advice to have samples and buffers at the same temperature is good advice. You will get an accurate reading whether the electrode meets spec or not. And the advice to make that temperature room temperature is good too from the POV of electrode life. Whatever the actual temperature is be sure to record it as well as the pH reading. That way if you ever want to go back and bring everything to a standard temperature you can apply the 0.005 pH/°C correction.
 
I'm still a little confused. If I'm brewing an IPA am I only using the additions listed under IPA's or am I using the baseline additions plus the IPA additions? The way I read it I should use just the IPA additions but I read a post many pages back where they were added together.
 
I'm still a little confused. If I'm brewing an IPA am I only using the additions listed under IPA's or am I using the baseline additions plus the IPA additions? The way I read it I should use just the IPA additions but I read a post many pages back where they were added together.
For British beers: Add 1 tsp gypsum as well as 1 tsp calcium chloride

It would be clearer if it said:
For British beers: Add 1 tsp gypsum in addition to the s 1 tsp calcium chloride called for in the baseline.
 
It would be clearer if it said:
For British beers: Add 1 tsp gypsum in addition to the s 1 tsp calcium chloride called for in the baseline.

Thank you for all of the help. I just ordered the ingredients for my next 3 brews. I'm doing an IPA, ESB and american wheat. I brew the IPA all the time so I can't wait to see the difference using distilled water and your suggestions here. If all goes as planned I'll be brewing something next weekend.
 
If I understand this even a little bit, this profile is not suitable for brewing any style, and I need to build my own from RO. If AJ or one of you guys that really get this can confirm, I would appreciate it.

pH 7.2
Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Est, ppm 514
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm 0.86
Cations / Anions, me/L 9.9 / 9.5
ppm
Sodium, Na 17
Potassium, K 1
Calcium, Ca 106
Magnesium, Mg 46
Total Hardness, CaCO3 457
Nitrate, NO3-N 8.5 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO4-S 5
Chloride, Cl 41
Carbonate, CO3 < 1
Bicarbonate, HCO3 452
Total Alkalinity, CaCO3 371
"<" - Not Detected

Is it possible that simply boiling this water to drop out the temporary hardness could get me in the ball park...perhaps cutting it with RO.
 
This water is a 'throw away' in terms of the intent of this thread which is to discuss KISS techniques for getting a decent beer. This water could be decarbonated and much of the magnesium could be removed but not by the KISS techniques promulgated here. In terms of the Primer you would dilute this water with 14 or more parts RO which would reduce the alkalinity to under 30. Might as well just use RO.
 
This water is a 'throw away' in terms of the intent of this thread which is to discuss KISS techniques for getting a decent beer. This water could be decarbonated and much of the magnesium could be removed but not by the KISS techniques promulgated here. In terms of the Primer you would dilute this water with 14 or more parts RO which would reduce the alkalinity to under 30. Might as well just use RO.

There's my conformation. Thank you. This primer will prove most useful for building from RO. Good stuff.
 
Holy crap 40watt - do you have to break that water off in chunks as it comes from the spigot? :D
 
Holy crap 40watt - do you have to break that water off in chunks as it comes from the spigot? :D

All of the water around here is full of minerals. It's white when you pour it, before the minerals settle out. It tastes great, and we all have real strong bones:)


At my mom and dads, that sediment packed the hot water heater halfway before we replaced it.

To my west is a sheetrock plant (gypsum), and the east is a town called Sulpher were the hills are yellow and smell like egg farts.
 
I was searching through this thread and I have not yet found any reference to mash hopping... so I figiured I'd just ask-
would it make any sense to add hops into the mash instead of acidulated malt to adjust the PH? If so, how would you calculate the hop addition ( alpha acids ) to approximate the 2% saurmalz
 
thanks AJ,
I am curious about alternatives to saurmalz. Do you think acetic found in natural lemon juice could function as a PH conditioner in the mash?
 
Yes and no. The acid found in lemon juice is citric acid. It was quite common for home brewers to use that in the early days. Most of the recipes in old classics like Bravery contained a tsp or so of citric acid. Today most would consider it too strongly flavored. Acetic acid would be out of the question because of its flavor.

Today lactic acid is doubtless the home brewer's favorite, either as sauermalz or as liquid lactic acid from the LHBS. In German commercial brewing lactic acid from sauemalz or sauergut (wort inoculated with L delbruckii) are the only legal acids. In the UK commercial brewers use CRS, a food grade blend of sulfuric and hydrochloric acids (do not substitute battery acid and HCl from the hardware store!).

Second most popular for home brewers today is doubtless phosphoric acid as it is the most flavor neutral of the options.
 
Acetic acid ... obviously I'm no chemistry whiz!
Of course, it is citric acid I was referring to in lemon juice- acetic acid (stop bath) was stuck in my head from my many days/nights in a darkroom before the invention of digital photography and photoshop.
I think a flavor profile could be a plus if it is intended and complements your beer, but agree it wouldn't be transparent. Interesting too that you mention Phosphoric as i believe it may have been an ingredient in early carbonated/ non alcholic beverages.
I have used lactic acid or lemon juice to prepare invert syrup from table sugar so I'm familiar with their flavor -tend to use lactic in stouts and citric in saison- but a more neutral acid would be a good tool to have on hand also- Thanks!
 
I remember (and miss to some extent) those old days in the darkroom too. Interestingly enough hypo can be used to clear chloramine.

As to phosphoric acid: a substantial proportion of the worlds phosphate goes into the production of phosphoric acid for use in what are now called 'sodas' but used, in my parents' day, to be known a 'phosphates' for obvious reasons. There is lots of phosphoric acid in your typical 'soda'. I think pH is 3 or less. 'Soda' can be used to clean up corroded metal etc. Tasting a 'soda' is a good demonstration of the flavor neutrality of phosphoric acid.
 
You can save yourself HOURS of frustration - simply add the recommended amount of pH 5.2 to your mash and be done with this topic if you have water with pH higher than you want... trust me it works - it can be easily proven with a simple pH meter, some tap water and some buffer solution. Now the mineral portion of the conversation is completely relevant... What's in the water affects the taste in that aspect. 8 )

Brew On!!!!
 
It's not quite that simple though, Charlie. That 5.2 stuff is useless IMO and definitely effects that flavor of beer
 
You can save yourself HOURS of frustration - simply add the recommended amount of pH 5.2 to your mash and be done with this topic if you have water with pH higher than you want...

This is flame bait. It doesn't work theoretically (i.e. a phosphate buffer at mash pH is a weak one because mash pH is distant from either of the closest 2 pK's of the phosphate system) and it doesn't work in lab tests. Plus in DI water it buffers to 5.8 or so. It relies on the phosphate from the malt to form a lower pH buffer but treble the suggested dose in real malt grists using water of modest (80) alkalinity it only gets you to 5.4 or so.

trust me it works - it can be easily proven with a simple pH meter, some tap water and some buffer solution.

Do not trust him. Do your own experiment. If you are take pH measurements on 5.2 solutions and read 5.2 then your meter is broken or your buffers are off - way off.
 
One more quick question, if I'm making a 5 gallon batch but using 10 gallons of water total I am making the additions based on the 10 gallons of water total? It's not batch size but total water used right?
 
Yes, that's correct. As low alkalinity water is being used as the starting point there is no need to acidify the sparge water or treat it any differently than the mash water. Some brewers do that, add salts to the kettle etc. but none of those techniques fall under the KISS principle which underlies the Primer.
 
Yes, that's correct. As low alkalinity water is being used as the starting point there is no need to acidify the sparge water or treat it any differently than the mash water. Some brewers do that, add salts to the kettle etc. but none of those techniques fall under the KISS principle which underlies the Primer.

Thank you again. I have 3 days off this weekend and I'm planning to do at least one batch. If I get the time I'm doing 2.
 
This is flame bait. It doesn't work theoretically (i.e. a phosphate buffer at mash pH is a weak one because mash pH is distant from either of the closest 2 pK's of the phosphate system) and it doesn't work in lab tests. Plus in DI water it buffers to 5.8 or so. It relies on the phosphate from the malt to form a lower pH buffer but treble the suggested dose in real malt grists using water of modest (80) alkalinity it only gets you to 5.4 or so.



Do not trust him. Do your own experiment. If you are take pH measurements on 5.2 solutions and read 5.2 then your meter is broken or your buffers are off - way off.

THANK YOU!!! For proving my point exactly!!! You add a few teaspoons of 5.2 powder to your water and add some BARLEY (I mean who would have thought of adding malted barley to a homebrew recipe?) and you get a pH of 5.2! Without reading 31 pages of mumbo jumbo or spending hours worrying about your water. I tested it last night - I'd be happy to youtube it. I took my 8.8 tap water, added a small amount of 5.2 and it read 5.5. Then I added some barely and I bet you can't guess what it read????

I spent over a decade as a Nuclear Chemist doing pH analysis dozens of times a day so I am very very familiar with how it works, how the calibration buffers work and what a simple buffer such as 5.2 is actually doing. It works and you don't need a PhD to get it to work - just a measuring spoon and 2 minutes of time!

PS - I also don't rotate my truck's tires every 5000.000 miles like the salesman told me to but I still get 68,000 miles out of the 70,000 they advertised.... Saves me hundreds of hours of not waiting in his showroom!

This ain't rocket science - it is yummy tasty HOMEBREW!!!!
 
THANK YOU!!! For proving my point exactly!!!
Actually, I disproved it analytically and demonstrated the fallacy in the lab.

You add a few teaspoons of 5.2 powder to your water and add some BARLEY (I mean who would have thought of adding malted barley to a homebrew recipe?) and you get a pH of 5.2!

No, you don't. I just did another quickie experiment with it. My well water runs alkalinity about 80 and pH 6.48 about 20 min after drawing it. With double approximately the recommended dose of 5.2 the pH goes to 6.47. Adding 50 grams of ground Munich I (what I happened to have on hand in the lab) to 100 mL of this water (no 5.2) comes to a pH of 5.48. Adding 5.2 makes no change. Doubling the dose causes an increase to 5.50 and trebling the dose brings it to 5.52. Obviously it's trying to buffer to its design pH which is apparently around 6.1 because that's what it buffers 18 megohm DI water to.

This was an interesting result which reveals another flaw in the design of this product it relies on malt phosphate but apparently malt phosphate isn't always available and, of course, what is in a particular malt, would depend on the cultivar, the malting procedure, the season etc.

In an earlier experiment with Maris Otter the DI dough in pH was 5.7. The recommended dose was able to pull that down to 5.68 and treble the dose was able to pull it down to 5.66. In other words in this case it was able to access some malt phosphate but not enough to pull the pH down to anywhere near 5.2. But this is unsurprising. If you are really a chemist you should understand that a phosphate buffer is at its weakest at pH 4.7 which is half a unit away from 5.2. You should also recall that phosphate is not a good choice for a buffer outside the range 1.1 - 3.1 or 6.2 - 8.2.

Without reading 31 pages of mumbo jumbo or spending hours worrying about your water.

The whole concept behind this thread is KISS. Water treatment for brewing is summarized neatly in the first post. Hijacking the thread with nonsense about this product which should be taken off the market doesn't help. People might believe you.


I tested it last night - I'd be happy to youtube it.
That I would like to see.



I spent over a decade as a Nuclear Chemist doing pH analysis dozens of times a day so I am very very familiar with how it works, how the calibration buffers work and what a simple buffer such as 5.2 is actually doing.
Apparently you aren't or you would at least respond to the buffer strength argument.


It works and you don't need a PhD to get it to work - just a measuring spoon and 2 minutes of time!

You are the first person that I have seen claim that it works based on a pH meter reading. Plenty of other guys have tried it and any who have used a pH meter to check on what it is doing have come to the same conclusion I have. For a long time I thought 'there must be some conditions under which it works but no one seems to be able to find them. One guy even called the factory and asked what the story was. They told him it was never intended to buffer to 5.2 but only to keep mash pH from going too low. That isn't what it says on the label. Perhaps you have found the Rosetta Stone. That's why I'd be so interested to see your proposed You-tube demo.


PS - I also don't rotate my truck's tires every 5000.000 miles like the salesman told me to but I still get 68,000 miles out of the 70,000 they advertised.... Saves me hundreds of hours of not waiting in his showroom!

WTF? Over.
 
Folks - I will post the Youtube video of this test later today (it is 5am for us EST peeps). My original test showed exactly what I posted. If the retest shows the same thats great! If not I will pour my 5.2 in the trash can and go KISS.... LOL

Brew On!!!!
 
Don't bother posting your video. If you can't explain/defend your position in words then you have no knowledge of what you are talking about. AJ has offered data and reasoning in his statements, all you provide is hyperbole and exclamation points in yours. Whenever I hear someone resort to "I have been doing X for Y years" as a line of reasoning in a discussion I immediately know they have no knowledge of what they are talking about. Knowledge is apparent in ones reasoning and explanations, not from a statement that "I have knowledge".

AJ you have given this guy enough of your time, no more is needed. Let him rant on.
 
Thanks for the kind words but let's not discourage this gentleman from doing his experiment. If he is indeed seeing what he says he sees there is a reason for it and I'd like to know what that is. It sounds as if he's blowing smoke but maybe that's just his writing style.
 
Thanks, AJ. One of the primary reasons I am into homebrewing is the fact that there are 1000 ways to do it and they all end up with a high quality product! The point of a forum is to intelligently debate what we have learned through experience. Yes - I am a northerner (aka damn yankee) so come off very opinionated and sometimes harsh in my posts. But I saw what I saw - I swear that to you and I would love it if AJ can show me what the heck this magic dust did or did not do. I spent years adding packets of pH 7.01 and 10.01 buffer to DI water and it always changed to that pH and stayed there for weeks.

I do apologize for my presentation. My helper (below) apologizes too! This was our first 15 gallons of all grain (yes I used the 5.2 magic dust - see second picture). It is a Pilsner with 25lbs of Pilsner Malt, 1lb of Carapills and 1lb of 20L. 9oz of Czech Saaz to boot! OG was 1.045 pre boil and 1.049 post. Target per BeerSmith was 1.042 pre and 1.045 post so I was a little high for my first All Grain!

2012_03_07_999_35.jpg


2012_03_08_999.jpg
 
pH 7 buffer is based on phosphate salts for which pK2 = 7.214 at 20 °C. 7.214 - 7 = 0.214 < 1 and so there is good buffering capacity. pH 10 buffer was traditionally made from carbonate salts for which pK2 = 10.38. 10.38 - 10.0 = 0.38 < 1 so again there is buffering capacity. Today buffers at high pH are often made from TRIS.

OTOH 7.21 - 5.2 = 2.01 > 1 and so there should be little buffering capacity at pH 5.2 from a phosphate buffer system. Remember in a calibration buffer one doesn't really have any stress except that of the DI water which is usually at a pH in the high 5's or low 6's but with no buffering capacity of its own to speak of. In the application of a product like 5.2 we have not only the buffering capacity of the water (it's alkalinity) to deal with but that of the malt.

It is, of course, possible to make a high strength buffer at pH 5.2 if you use the salts of the right acid. Citric acid has a second pK = 4.77. 5.20 - 4.77 = 0. 43 < 1 so citric could be a candidate but I expect the amount required would require so much buffer that the citric taste would be noticeable.
 
You are a very patient man AJ. I'm sure I have tested those patience with some of my less than intelligent questions. :mug:

How's the book coming along? :D
 
I'd still like to see this youtube video showing proof that 5.2 works
 
So here is a question - I'm a Scottish60 and using 100% RO water I'm adding1 tsp gypsum and 1 tsp calcium chloride. Is it odd that those will be the ONLY minerals in the water?

Also - is there any problems with over mineralizing on basically a small beer?
 
As RO systems do not remove 100% of any ion there will always be traces of everything that was in the feed water in the RO. The malt itself will provide a fair amount of mineral content as well. Some brewers like to give the yeast a little zinc in the form of one of the commercially prepared yeast nutrients.

You can over-mineralize on any beer. If the beer tastes more of minerals than you hoped it would you have over mineralized. Pull back next time.
 
Yea I was wondering if I should cut back a little with a beer that will only have about 3,8ABV. Maybe I will just to ease my fears
 
Folks - so I tried the 5.2 expirement last night. I set my 1080p camcorder on a tripod and aimed at the counter for a nice clean picture. I then put the pH meter (Hanna Checker - new only used once) into buffer 7.01 (read 6.96 at 23C - so slightly off but not much). Then into buffer 4.01 (read 4.24 - off - although the test before it read 4.05 - not as much off). I then pulled some fresh tapwater with a very short purge of the water lines. It read 7.55. I put 1 tsp of 5.2 in it and it came down to 5.7 (last test it came down further to 5.5). I went ahead and put a cup of freshly milled Pilsner Malt in and at room temp it did nothing to the pH as it needs to be at conversion temps. So I read the water again and my pH meter started fluctuating from 4 up to 11 and all over the place. I tapped it gently on the bottom of the beaker and cycled the power. It came up reading "1." then a few seconds later read something in the 5's then the display went blank. I changed the batteries and made sure the probe was attached correctly and not clogged with a piece of barley or such. Obviously this meter will be going BACK to amazon. So I took a look at my video to see if I had enough to post it. Verbally I do BUT when I was showing the pH meter to the camera I was holding it up too high - so all you see is a beaker... <damn it>. Anyway when I get the new meter I will re-record the test.

Some questions - is it worth getting another $31.00 Hanna Checker meter or should I buy a bit more expensive (and hopefully reliable) meter much like the pro ones I've used in the past? Anyone else have experience with the Hanna model for light duty use? Maybe move to a Hanna HI 9813-6N?

The debate on 5.2 in general - in my opinion if it takes tap water in the 7 to 8 range and drops it to the 5 range that is a success. I realize it does NOT get it down to an actual 5.2 but relies on the grain to finish the job. Are others even able to get it to do this initial drop in pH? It appears to be a fairly quick and easy method to drop standard carbon filtered tap water (note - my tap water is very soft - 30 ppm range soft).

Thanks All!
 
The debate on 5.2 in general - in my opinion if it takes tap water in the 7 to 8 range and drops it to the 5 range that is a success. I realize it does NOT get it down to an actual 5.2 but relies on the grain to finish the job. Are others even able to get it to do this initial drop in pH? It appears to be a fairly quick and easy method to drop standard carbon filtered tap water (note - my tap water is very soft - 30 ppm range soft).

Thanks All!

I've not actually tried it, since I don't want all of that sodium. However, you're generalizing too much, in my opinion. You say "standard carbon filtered water." However, your comments probably don't apply to my 214 ppm alkalinity well water. Besides, with your water it'd be just about as easy to use the water primer, perhaps along with one of the spreadsheets.

Edit: Also, that meter has a range of +/- .2 pH, so your pH could have actually been .2 higher.
 
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