80 Quart Stainless Kettle with Lid for $55 plus shipping

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So I got shipment notification today. Hopefully I'll see them at some point next week.
 
When someone gets their 110 qt can you please post some measurements. Their live chat people are just about worthless.
 
The measurements are on the first page of this thread. 17.5 wide, 17.5 high. Works out to 18.2 gallons. So ~18.
 
glazarou said:
The measurements are on the first page of this thread. 17.5 wide, 17.5 high. Works out to 18.2 gallons. So ~18.
Click to expand...

glazarou,

I believe people are requesting the "60 quart" dimensions, not the "80 quart dimensions". Roundeyesupply also sells a smaller 60 qt., in addition to the kettle you bought.

My "110 quart" is expected to arrive Monday!:rockin:
 
wilserbrewer said:
glazarou,

I believe people are requesting the "60 quart" dimensions, not the "80 quart dimensions". Roundeyesupply also sells a smaller 60 qt., in addition to the kettle you bought.

My "110 quart" is expected to arrive Monday!:rockin:
Click to expand...

Yes, this is the information I am looking for.
 

Big, bold, shiny and quite beautiful. Lid and pot seem a bit thicker than the "80 quart". Pot interior measures 19 3/8" X 19 3/8", or just shy of 25 gallons (24.7). Double boxed and packaged well!
 
Got mine today also. Just under 25 gallons as stated above. Quite thin but for the price, you can't beat it. I'll use it as a HLT. Don't think I would ever use it as a boil pot on propane however and I would no way in hell use the handles to pick it up when it's full!
 
Received mine yesterday. Very nice especially for the price. Measures at .035wall thickness, which is just under 19ga. Handles are welded, not riveted.
 
Give these a little use... I have a feeling that you guys may start experiencing what happened to me. Got in on a china order (not roundeyespply..but lets be serious that does sound slightly racist) and started using my 19gallon pot (everything else on the pots looks to be the same, thin walls, tacked on handles, flimsy lid etc..)

Long story short, after a few uses, the rim has gotten scratched (from turning it over to wash out in the driveway etc...) nothing major, just a few scuffs, and it looks like its actually turning orange in a few spots and starting to rust...

Not sure of the grade of stainless on these, but at least the one ive got (again, not roundeyesupply, but im sure theyre the same manufacturer) has me nervous about what it could be leeching into my mash
 
ArcticBear said:
Long story short, after a few uses, the rim has gotten scratched (from turning it over to wash out in the driveway etc...) nothing major, just a few scuffs, and it looks like its actually turning orange in a few spots and starting to rust...

Not sure of the grade of stainless on these, but at least the one ive got (again, not roundeyesupply, but im sure theyre the same manufacturer) has me nervous about what it could be leeching into my mash
Click to expand...

Sounds like you need to clean it better.
 
ArcticBear said:
how do you figure? it's oxidizing (aka rusting) on a few of the areas that were scratched... the tun gets completely cleaned every time its used
Click to expand...

A little Bar Keepers Friend will take that orange right off.
 
you're missing the point. "stainless" steel, shouldn't be rusting... that was my whole point. no one knows the grade of steel they are making these pots with, anything less than the 300 series of stainless shouldn't entirely be used for food, but that's just me. i'll keep using my mash tun cause it was cheap, until the lead poisoning rotts my brain, just figured i would mention it
 
ArcticBear said:
you're missing the point. "stainless" steel, shouldn't be rusting... that was my whole point. no one knows the grade of steel they are making these pots with, anything less than the 300 series of stainless shouldn't entirely be used for food, but that's just me. i'll keep using my mash tun cause it was cheap, until the lead poisoning rotts my brain, just figured i would mention it
Click to expand...

There's no lead used in making stainless steel.
 
ArcticBear said:
how do you figure? it's oxidizing (aka rusting) on a few of the areas that were scratched... the tun gets completely cleaned every time its used
Click to expand...

Get some bar keeper's friend and make a thick paste. Apply that to the spots in question and this will re-passivate the stainless steel and stop it from rusting.
 
ArcticBear said:
you're missing the point. "stainless" steel, shouldn't be rusting... that was my whole point. no one knows the grade of steel they are making these pots with, anything less than the 300 series of stainless shouldn't entirely be used for food, but that's just me. i'll keep using my mash tun cause it was cheap, until the lead poisoning rotts my brain, just figured i would mention it
Click to expand...

Stainless steel can and will rust. It's a common misconception that it can't/won't. SS is still 70% iron. The higher the nickel content the less likely (and more expensive) the piece will be. The most common SS for homebrewing is 304 otherwise known as 18/8 (18% Chromium/ 8% Nickel). 316 or 18/10 (18% Chromium/ 10% Nickel) is sometimes used in valves but not as common in homebrewing. 18/0 (18% Chromium/ 0% Nickel) is common for utensils like forks, knives maybe your mash paddle. 18/0 is still 'stainless steel' but doesn't have the corrosion properties that 304 or 316 has but it's way cheaper and will work just fine for homebrewing.

More than likely these kettles are a 201 or 410 stainless. They have a lot lower Chromium and Nickel content meaning less corrosion resistant. Hold a magnet next to the kettle and more than likely it'll give a strong tug on it meaning it's not a 300 series austenitic stainless steel.

bja said:
I take it that you either didn't search for the metallurgical composition of stainless, or you did and didn't understand what you read.
Click to expand...

Lead is not called out as an ingredient in stainless, usually (I've heard of it added for added machinability), but the coke burned to make the iron could have lead and that could end up in the stainless steel so it's not completely hair brained.
 
bja said:
There's no lead used in making stainless steel.
Click to expand...

the point is, just because some off racist product website tells you it's stainless steel... is it really?

of course there isn't lead in actual stainless steel...but what i'm saying is, just because we are being told it's stainless steel... is it really? how would you know?
 
SpikeBrewing said:
Stainless steel can and will rust. It's a common misconception that it can't/won't. SS is still 70% iron. The higher the nickel content the less likely (and more expensive) the piece will be. The most common SS for homebrewing is 304 otherwise known as 18/8 (18% Chromium/ 8% Nickel). 316 or 18/10 (18% Chromium/ 10% Nickel) is sometimes used in valves but not as common in homebrewing. 18/0 (18% Chromium/ 0% Nickel) is common for utensils like forks, knives maybe your mash paddle. 18/0 is still 'stainless steel' but doesn't have the corrosion properties that 304 or 316 has but it's way cheaper and will work just fine for homebrewing.

More than likely these kettles are a 201 or 410 stainless. They have a lot lower Chromium and Nickel content meaning less corrosion resistant. Hold a magnet next to the kettle and more than likely it'll give a strong tug on it meaning it's not a 300 series austenitic stainless steel.



Lead is not called out as an ingredient in stainless, usually (I've heard of it added for added maintainability), but the coke burned to make the iron could have lead and that could end up in the stainless steel so it's not completely hair brained.
Click to expand...


right, i agree with you. and i'm not trying to start a fire sale of people uprising about these pots, they are a great deal. i just am weary about the compositions made to manufacture them that's all.

thank you for the info though, it is always good stuff to know :mug:
 
Lead doesn't rust. And if they were trying to rip you off on a stainless steel pot that wasn't stainless steel, they'd use something other than lead to try to fool you. Like aluminum.

Take a brass key and try to scratch your pot. If the brass doesn't scratch it, then it's not aluminum.
 
bja said:
I take it that you either didn't search for the metallurgical composition of stainless, or you did and didn't understand what you read.
Click to expand...

i take it that you have full confidence that these super cheap "stainless steel" pots from china are actually made of stainless steel. because chinese manufacturers of cheap goods have never lied about composition...
 
wow! going to have to move this thread to the debate forum soon! to the op thanks for the link i love my new cheap pot!:mug:
 
Hold a magnet next to the kettle and more than likely it'll give a strong tug on it meaning it's not a 300 series austenitic stainless steel.
Click to expand...

Magnet does not pull at all on these pots. Which means what? Good stainless?
I have commercial grade stainless steel refrigerators in my brewery and the magnet does stick to them.

Handles aren't just tacked on they have a full weld bead running the entire length of the handle contact area.

These pots are not Blichmann, but hey they aren't $400+ either.

Just saying.
 
mblanks2 said:
Magnet does not pull at all on these pots. Which means what? Good stainless?
I have commercial grade stainless steel refrigerators in my brewery and the magnet does stick to them.

Handles aren't just tacked on they have a full weld bead running the entire length of the handle contact area.

These pots are not Blichmann, but hey they aren't $400+ either.

Just saying.
Click to expand...

Little to no magnet means 300 series (for a stock pot that would be 304). That's a good thing and what you want to see.

Things that are covered in a stainless sheet (for aesthetics) like a refrigerator or something similar is more than likely 200 or 400 series stainless which is magnetic. There is no reason a fridge would need to be a 300 series.
 
SpikeBrewing said:
Little to no magnet means 300 series (for a stock pot that would be 304). That's a good thing and what you want to see.

Things that are covered in a stainless sheet (for aesthetics) like a refrigerator or something similar is more than likely 200 or 400 series stainless which is magnetic. There is no reason a fridge would need to be a 300 series.
Click to expand...

So, you are saying these pots are a pretty badass deal? I was hoping to possibly make an entire brewery with them. Would these be able to brew 15 gallons of fermentable wort?
 
sweetcell said:
i take it that you have full confidence that these super cheap "stainless steel" pots from china are actually made of stainless steel. because chinese manufacturers of cheap goods have never lied about composition...
Click to expand...

Yes. Do you really think that someone, Chinese or not could make a pot out of mild steel or aluminum or anything else and pass it off as stainless? You really can't be that naive, or can you?
 

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