5 Gal BIAB Kettle Size

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CKelly

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Hello all,

I am heavily considering stepping up from extract to BIAB and had a quick question. Is a 10 gallon kettle usually big enough for 5 gallon BIAB batches? I know that typically about 7 gallons of water is used in the process, but is 10 gallons still big enough after the volume displacement caused by the grains?

Thanks!
 
Hello all,

I am heavily considering stepping up from extract to BIAB and had a quick question. Is a 10 gallon kettle usually big enough for 5 gallon BIAB batches? I know that typically about 7 gallons of water is used in the process, but is 10 gallons still big enough after the volume displacement caused by the grains?

Thanks!

You should be OK BIAB mashing almost any 5 gallon batch you could make in a 10 gallon kettle. You'll notice kettle size more in the boil phase -- believe it or not, if you've got 6.5 or 7 gallons of liquid you can still boil over a 10 gallon pot easily once you start tossing hops in. So if you can find a decent price I'd recommend at least looking at 15 gallon pots, just to give yourself the extra margin during the boil.
 
You should be OK BIAB mashing almost any 5 gallon batch you could make in a 10 gallon kettle. You'll notice kettle size more in the boil phase -- believe it or not, if you've got 6.5 or 7 gallons of liquid you can still boil over a 10 gallon pot easily once you start tossing hops in. So if you can find a decent price I'd recommend at least looking at 15 gallon pots, just to give yourself the extra margin during the boil.

Interesting, I probably wouldn't have guess that would be a bigger issue. But I'll keep that in mind when I'm searching around for pots. Thanks!
 
I use a 15 gallon pot and bigger is always better IMO. Gives you extra room for bigger beers and the boil over point is a good one too. I have done 10 gallon batches in it too with lower gravity beers. Just needed a bit of sparge water.
Plus if you are buying a brand new pot the price difference isnt that huge.
 
Interesting, I probably wouldn't have guess that would be a bigger issue. But I'll keep that in mind when I'm searching around for pots. Thanks!

It's not a deal-killer by any means, I brewed 5 gallon batches for several years in a 10 gallon pot and learned after a few boil-overs to keep a close eye when tossing in the hops (and you'll find maniacs on HBT that brew 5 gallons in 7.5-8 gallon pots using fermcap and extreme diligence). But I think if you're buying a basic brewpot on eBay (like the Concord stainless pots) the cost difference b/w 10 and 15 gallons isn't big, and in hindsight I'd have spent an extra $10 of $15 to never have to think about boiling over.
 
I have a 10 gallon Tall Boy kettle and I brew 5.5 gallon BIAB batches in it. Works great, except I'm limited a bit in how big of a grain bill I can fit in there. I've done up to 14 lbs of grain and guestimate that around 15-16 would be the absolute limit. If I go any bigger than that, I'd need to start off with less water in the kettle and do a sparge to get up to pre-boil volume.
 
I use a 44 qt (11gal) Bayou classic for my eBiab. The setup is new so I only have a few batches on this rig, but for 5.5 gallons into the fermenter it has been fine. I have done a 8% abv stout in it so I think that it is fine for the batch size but unless you are going lower grav you are not going to be able to do much more volume than that. I have a 3 vessel setup as well so I was not worried about it, this rig is to do weeknight brews so it is the perfect size.

All that to say, I think it is fine, but 15 gallons would give you plenty of safe space if you can swing it and it works for what you are doing, go to the 15.

P.S. Wilser....got your bags and they look amazing! Have not had a chance to brew with them but will next weekend....very much looking forward to it.
 
I agree with the consensus above; 10G will work, but 15G will work better.

I disagree with the consensus. I've made several 5 gallon batches in a 7 1/2 gallon pot. You don't really need a 15 gallon pot to make a 5 gallon batch. Maybe for a 10 gallon batch....:rockin:
 
My pot is 11 gallon (nominal 10 gallon MegaPot 1.2)

Works great for 5.5 gallon batches. The disadvantage of the bigger pot could be greater difficulty in maintaining mash-temps owing to the increased headspace. Not a major issue perhaps but something to consider.

I could easily do up to 1.070 in my pot and probably do 1.080 if push came to shove. I don't make super big beers so it's a moot point. Looking at a barley wine at some stage in the future.

Full volume mash (~10lbs of grain, ~7.5 gallons of strike water) Dough In 2.jpg

Megapot Decoction Setup.jpg
 
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With a full volume mash and boil there is no way you could fit it in a 7.5 gal pot. I start with 7 1/4 gal of water, not to mention that pesky grain.

Lots of ways to brew, but if you want to go full volume you need to go bigger.
 
I'd go 15 or 16 gal if you can afford the extra tin. I can make 10 gallons of high gravity (1.080) all grain unfortified with my 16 Gal Bayou Classic and JUST have enough room for all that grain BIAB. But this size should give you plenty of room to work comfortably at a 5 gal batch.

An important factor: How big is your burner?
 
Concord makes a 50 qt, 12.5 gallon pot....IMO that's the sweet spot for 5 gallon BIAB batches.

That is what I use. I think it is a good kettle for most of my purposes. Sometimes I wish I'd gone with a 15 gal. 1.100+ brews are a pretty tight fit with a full volume mash and normal boil length.

I haven't tried brewing something super strong since I started doing only 30 minute boils. The extra half gallon or so of space might make the larger kettle unneeded.
 
That is what I use. I think it is a good kettle for most of my purposes. Sometimes I wish I'd gone with a 15 gal. 1.100+ brews are a pretty tight fit with a full volume mash and normal boil length.

I haven't tried brewing something super strong since I started doing only 30 minute boils. The extra half gallon or so of space might make the larger kettle unneeded.

You can also pack grain to about 1.080 and boil down to 1.100 ;)
 
Of course not, I like to get the increased brewhouse efficiency by sparging. I'm not telling the OP that he/she has to use a 7 1/2 gallon pot, just that 15 gallon pots are not a requirement.

+1

I used to do a full mash (BIAB), but my efficiency sucked. I have since halved the water and use half to mash and half to sparge. My efficiency has improved. I have done up to a 15 pound grain bill with this method.
 
+2

I'm not a believer in bigger is better, or buy the largest pot you can afford.

For strictly 5 gallon batches, I think a 10 or 12.5 gallon pot is plenty. When and if the you need to brew a huge beer, add a sparge step if needed.

Having the right size tool most of the time is preferred to having one that is oversized on the majority of batches.

I would find a 15 gallon kettle inconveniently large for almost all 5 gallon batches.
Jmo
 
I disagree with the consensus. I've made several 5 gallon batches in a 7 1/2 gallon pot. You don't really need a 15 gallon pot to make a 5 gallon batch. Maybe for a 10 gallon batch....:rockin:

This isn't about need, but rather what would be optimal. Pretty much everyone who has opined in this thread, myself included, has stated in some way or another that a smaller kettle will get the job done. I made do brewing 3.5-5.0G batches with an 8G kettle for nearly 3 years. It worked, but was inconvenient at times, not so much with the smaller batch sizes, as it was perfect for that, but the 5G batches could be pushing the limits when doing larger OG brews and 90 min boils. I was frequently starting boils 1/2" from the top, which was a little bit unnerving. Thank goodness for Fermcap.

Things to consider when upgrading your kettle:
Do you brew big beers? Requires more mash volume.
Do you ever plan to brew lagers or recipes that use Pilsner malt? A 90 min boil is recommended when brewing with Pilsner malt. I'd say 75% of what I brew gets a 90 min boil.
Do you plan to brew big beers that require an extended boil (E.g., Belgian Quad or Wee Heavy)? Requires lots of grain and water.
Would you ever brew a batch in which you might want to keg 5 gallons and bottle age 2 or 3 more? That would be a ~9G batch. I never thought I'd do this, but since I now have a kettle that is sufficiently sized, I've done it a few times now.

Of course, all of the above can be overcome even when using a smaller kettle. A bit of malt extract or sugar can boost gravity without adding much to volume, you can add top-off water to the fermenter, you can do multiple mashes and boils to reach a desired batch size, or even reduce your batch size if you don't want/need 5 gallons of that 1.100 Wee Heavy. In the end, it comes down to what is doable, what is optimal, and how much hassle or compromise you are willing to deal with to get there. There are probably about as many ways to skin this cat as there are cats.

So, a 7.5G kettle will work, but full-volume mashes and/or extended boils will be problematic and require some sort of compromise for a 5.5G batch. A 10G kettle will be better, but will also have limitations under the right conditions. 12G will almost always get the job done and will only be too small under extreme circumstances. A 15G kettle will pretty much handle every scenario wrt to 5.5-6.0G batch size and could easily accommodate most recipes up to 8 or 9G, as well as some 10G brews.

I have a 15G kettle and brew 6G as my standard batch size. As stated above, most batches get a 90 minute boil. This means I start my brew day with ~9G of water in the kettle, which gets treated with a campden tab and brewing salts. Prior to starting the mash, I draw off some water for the sparge, which is not required, but I like to do it for the extra efficiency it yields. Pre-boil volume on a 6G batch and 90 minute boil is 8.12 gallons based on my system's variables. I no longer use Fermcap.
 
A lot of good points (masskrug, RM-MN, LLBeanJ). The bottom line is how do you want to brew. I like brewing in the climate-controlled comfort of my kitchen so I do a modified BIAB with my 9 gal tallboy turkey fryer reserving a couple of gallons for a fly sparge through the raised bag/basket. I get about 80% efficiency vs 65% when I did full volume. I max out around 16 lbs of grain (1080-ish). This works for me because my stove can boil 7+ gal and I'm too much of a wuss to sweat/freeze outside brewing. It also gives me direct access to my kitchen sink.

If you like doing larger batches (or might in the future) or really high gravity 5 gal brews (or might in the future) and prefer the simplicity of full volume, you should definitely go bigger. It gives you more options. Keep in mind that bigger pot equals more boiloff (bigger surface area) and possibly more fuel to boil it. It all depends on your beer preferences and brewing style. Decide your priorities and get your system set up in the way that works best for you.
 
I honestly don't see how. People say they get **** efficiency from a full volume Mash. I made the switch and I hit around a 75% efficiency. If it isn't full volume it isn't BIAB brewing. As for pot size I had a turkey fryer before but beers always came out darker due to scorching the wort with the thin bottom. Whaatever you get just try to get one with a nice thick plate on the bottom.
 
I am switching from an 8 gal to a 15 gal. The problem with the 8 gal is there is not really enough room during the mash. You can manage this by adding water post-mash/pre-boil but I found managing volumes to be highly variable. It is an extra step that can introduce problems. The full volume mashes I have done more consistently hit my target OG. As far as effiency of full volume mash I have found the problem is corrected by adjusting the gain bill (adding acid malt) or adding some acid. Use a water Calc to get the right targets.

I feel that illiminating steps from the process where you can, simplifies, removes the chance to make a mistake and improves consistency.

Cheers.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. A lot of good advice out there. Since this is a hobby I don't see ever stopping, it sounds like I should just bite the bullet and spend a little extra to get a 15 G pot. Currently I haven't really done any high gravity beers, but it's definitely something I could see myself doing in the future.
 
Thanks everyone for the responses. A lot of good advice out there. Since this is a hobby I don't see ever stopping, it sounds like I should just bite the bullet and spend a little extra to get a 15 G pot. Currently I haven't really done any high gravity beers, but it's definitely something I could see myself doing in the future.

Good call! If you're looking to make an economical decision I'd suggest carefully weighing your kettle options.

  • You can buy through an HBS or a supplier like Spike. You'll get a nice kettle with whatever add-ons (e.g. ball valve, thermometer, sight glass) you choose preinstalled, but you'll pay a premium since someone else is doing the work for you.
  • You can find a solid 15 gallon pot on eBay ($81 for a 60 quart stainless Concord here, possible there are cheaper aluminum options out there). When it's time to remove the wort after it's chilled, you can use an auto siphon, hoist and dump to your fermenter if your back is strong, or use a sanitized pitcher to remove wort until it's at a level you're comfortable hoisting and dumping.
  • If you want to add a ball valve to your pot at some point it's relatively cheap and easy to do. You'd need a bulkhead/valve kit like this (~$25 with all the bits added), a step bit like this ($15 from bargainfittings.com, ~$6 on eBay direct from China, just make sure it'll do 7/8" which is the size you need for your bulkhead), and some Teflon tape ($1.50).

Either way, enjoy your new kettle!
 
Don't expect to go over 1.065 for a 5 gallon batch in a 10 gallon pot. Anything higher will require extract. (or smaller batches)
 
Don't expect to go over 1.065 for a 5 gallon batch in a 10 gallon pot. Anything higher will require extract. (or smaller batches)

Actually, I got up to 1.086 with efficiency in the 60's by using pour-over sparge, with almost 20 pounds of grain in a 10 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch. It is true that you are quite limited if you use the entire volume of water for the mash, but by sparging the grain you can bump the OG a LOT higher than 1.065 in a 10 gallon pot.
 
If you can achieve 80% brew house, which many report, you could squeeze a 1.086 beer out of a 10 gallon MLT.
 
Actually, I got up to 1.086 with efficiency in the 60's by using pour-over sparge, with almost 20 pounds of grain in a 10 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch. It is true that you are quite limited if you use the entire volume of water for the mash, but by sparging the grain you can bump the OG a LOT higher than 1.065 in a 10 gallon pot.

Nice. Not to be a story topper, but to be a story topper :) Back in the spring I did a barley wine. 23 pounds in a 10 gallon pot, dunk sparge, 73% efficiency. OG 1.102.

This was before I got my overhead hoist rigged up. That was one heavy bag.
 
Nice. Not to be a story topper, but to be a story topper :) Back in the spring I did a barley wine. 23 pounds in a 10 gallon pot, dunk sparge, 73% efficiency. OG 1.102.

This was before I got my overhead hoist rigged up. That was one heavy bag.


Ah you should have done a double dunk/batch sparge, maybe next time you could top your story topper haha!

Always a work around IMO cheers!
 
I've got a 12.5 Concord and have done a few 8.25 batches with it & it was cheap too 5.5 batches are a breeze with it-- When I bought it I thought I'd still be able to pull a bag on the stove top was my reason for buying 12.5 no luck--had to move to the garage last January and regret not getting a 15 gallon had I known I was moving outside I wouldn't have considered anything smaller than the 15 gal.
My neighbor wants a kettle I told him yesterday not to buy anything smaller than 15 gallon--
 
Actually, I got up to 1.086 with efficiency in the 60's by using pour-over sparge, with almost 20 pounds of grain in a 10 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch. It is true that you are quite limited if you use the entire volume of water for the mash, but by sparging the grain you can bump the OG a LOT higher than 1.065 in a 10 gallon pot.

Yes you are brewing, using a bag... but it is not BIAB when you add extra sparging steps. At this point, you might want to use a mash tun.

But it does show ingenuity for pushing the equipment you have. Cheers.
 
Yes you are brewing, using a bag... but it is not BIAB when you add extra sparging steps.

I think this is the second time I've heard this in the past week. Please, for those who are new to BIAB, know that this is not the view point a vast majority of us hold. You can call it BIAB, even with a sparge, and we won't judge you.

Edit: looking back, twice in this same thread! What is this world coming to?
 
Yes you are brewing, using a bag... but it is not BIAB when you add extra sparging steps. At this point, you might want to use a mash tun.

But it does show ingenuity for pushing the equipment you have. Cheers.

Maybe a mash tun would be a nice addition, but right now I don't see the need for the extra equipment or to add the extra cost. If from a purist POV it isn't technically BIAB, that is fine, but it is a way to brew, using a bag, and get a lot more than the 1.065 gravity from a 10 gallon pot quoted above. That was the only point of my comment.
 
I think this is the second time I've heard this in the past week. Please, for those who are new to BIAB, know that this is not the view point a vast majority of us hold. You can call it BIAB, even with a sparge, and we won't judge you.

Edit: looking back, twice in this same thread! What is this world coming to?

I don't get it either. Why anyone would want to restrict their methods to conform to some random definition of a stupid acronym is beyond me.

I brew in a hybrid boil kettle/direct fired MLT with an unblockable post-mash removable manifold. Just rolls off the tongue, no?

I'm disqualified from calling it BIAB if I use step mashes with infusions or decoctions, carry out a pour over sparge or diverge in any way from a single infusion full-volume no-sparge process.
 

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