Rad-Rabbit
Well-Known Member
jeffmeh said:Also, I'm not sure what you gain from having LEDs in parallel with each of the contactors in the power panels. One LED for each power panel would tell you that it is receiving its 120v control voltage, right? Lastly, it looks like you have the LEDs for the elements in series before the element. They should be in parallel with the element. If I am misinterpreting the diagram, my apologies.
I had the indicators in series but P-J said that they wouldn't carry enough current to energize the contactors. When they were in series they would have done what I wanted IF they would have been able to Carry the current. I might as well only have one in the current setup because if any coil gets power they will all come on. I'll make the corrections.
The10mmKid said:Jeff, the LED's are there for voltage confirmation. My thoughts are that they are in the actual element housing. That way you know if your cable connection is good, that element is on, and/or that it is cycling as the PID output is indicating. Just a visual aid, nothing more. 'da Kid
Kid, you are correct, the 240v indicator is there just to know the element are cycling and to point out if the float switch is having any problems at which point it can be bypassed by the bypass switch.
I do have concerns about the float switch and turbulence but they have been used in other commercial boil kettle applications so I would hope they would function correctly. The float switch is good up to 150C, 256F.
NEW INFORMATION EDIT:
Intensive agitation of liquid, boiling fluids and surging due to large inflows of liquid can all cause turbulence and erratic float switch operation. This problem can be eliminated by the use of slosh shields with adequately-sized fluid and vent holes, as illustrated here. Available for vertical, horizontal (side-mounted) and multi-point switches with full-size or miniature floats, these slosh shields can be supplied in stainless steel, brass, polypropylene, PBT or Kynar.