3000w 220v heating element/ German Outlets.

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Vincanity

Active Member
Joined
Sep 28, 2014
Messages
43
Reaction score
4
Hello,

I really want to make the jump to electric recirculating BIAB as I currently BIAB with propane burner. I'm stationed overseas in Germany and have read several reviews on wiring 120v elements but nothing for 220v elements for European outlets. I have been looking into installing a 220v 3000w element in my brew kettle http://www.amazon.de/Edelstahl-elektrisch-Heizelement-Booster-Durchlauferhitzer/dp/B00XZQVH4O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434881958&sr=8-1&keywords=heim+silber+edelstahl+elektrisch+heizelement+booster and using the auber pid controller in conjunction with the heating element http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8&products_id=330

I chose this because it is fairly simple at a good price and it is variable from 110-240 and the output is also universal for European outlets. My question... the auber states that for countries that use 220-240vac maximum control power is 3300watts. Will this configuration work together? Also would I be able to wire the heating element and plug directly into the German outlet?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Wiring a heating element is done the same way regardless of the input voltage. You can wire it straight to the plug if you don't need to control it - they are simple devices.

However, in Europe we have wire color standards:

Brown: phase (or live as US people call it)
Blue: neutral
Green-Yellow: ground

Also, when you buy the electric cable for wiring the element, make sure it is 2.5mm square cross-section. 1.5mm cable is rated for things less than 10 amps.
 
Thanks Podz! I will make sure I get the 2.5 mm cable, would I be able to plug that directly into the auber controller that I had linked? I appreciate the feedback
 
Thanks Podz! I will make sure I get the 2.5 mm cable, would I be able to plug that directly into the auber controller that I had linked? I appreciate the feedback

The auber has a USA socket, so if you wire a german plug onto the end of it then you need an adapter. I guess you can buy the adapter in the military stores.
 
The auber itself is 110-240 so I will just plug that into a plug adapter into the outlet. But if you look at this picture
WS_1500ES_backview.jpg
the output is universal for european plugs, so I was wondering if I would be able to plug the heating element into that? Its a 3000w heater element and that controller says the max control power for 220-240vac is 3300w max.
 
Sidebar:

However, in Europe we have wire color standards:

Brown: phase (or live as US people call it)
Blue: neutral
Green-Yellow: ground.

PODZ,

Interesting. I always assumed that 220/240 VAC countries use 2 phase (balanced) AC.

Do they have 2 phase 440 VAC power for things like heavyduty - high current appliances?
 
anyone else have any insight on this? wish I was more electrically inclined
 
Sidebar:



PODZ,

Interesting. I always assumed that 220/240 VAC countries use 2 phase (balanced) AC.

Do they have 2 phase 440 VAC power for things like heavyduty - high current appliances?

Domestic wiring is all 240V single phase (single phase feed to each house). Industrial power can be 480V three phase. Two phase isn't used IME.
 
Sidebar:



PODZ,

Interesting. I always assumed that 220/240 VAC countries use 2 phase (balanced) AC.

Do they have 2 phase 440 VAC power for things like heavyduty - high current appliances?

Yo, Bro, we just ain't wound like that. Our transformers put out three phase 230v between phase and neutral. That means that every house and apartment has three phase incoming at 400v. We do not have two phase power in europe.

Back in the day, even different cities in europe had different voltages.230v eventually became the standard because of the cost of copper. The US system of 115v is extremely wasteful, with regards to copper, when you consider the amount of it needed to supply the entire country.

My kitchen stove is 3-phase. So is the power I send to the sub-panels in my kitchen and garage. I have a 3-phase outlet in my garage waiting for my new electric brewing rig.
 
The auber itself is 110-240 so I will just plug that into a plug adapter into the outlet. But if you look at this picture
WS_1500ES_backview.jpg
the output is universal for european plugs, so I was wondering if I would be able to plug the heating element into that? Its a 3000w heater element and that controller says the max control power for 220-240vac is 3300w max.

The output is not for european plugs. The output is for US plugs. That is what I meant when I said you need an adapter. You need an adapter for the output plug, at least. In europe, grounded plugs are not 3-pronged. They are only 2-pronged. The grounding is bult into the side strips. Here is the adapter for the opposite direction (not the one you need):

71MfDMzuYRL._SX522_.jpg


Don't worry, though - the device itself is dual-voltage. Dual-voltage on the input and dual-voltage on the output. That's pretty nice.
 
That's what it says right off the website. Maybe I'm confusing you, but the output is indeed universal. What I was confused on was that it says 3300w max for European countries and my element is 3000, is that pushing it??

Notes for customers outside North America:
The "universal" output socket accepts either US power cord or the European CEE 7/7 cord.
For European customers, we will ship the controller with European CEE 7/7 power input cord.
For other countries, a US power cord is included. User can splice the connector of the cord to a power strip outlet that meets the local standard for the output. For the input, the controller has standard IEC 320 C13/14 socket. User can use a computer power cord that meets the local standard to power it.
There's an optional Travel Plug Adapter on the top of this product page. Please select it if you need this plug adapter.
 
OK, so the output can handle a schuko (schuko is the name of the standard european plug that was, coincidentally, invented in Germany) or US plug, fine. But the output can not handle a grounded schuko plug - the grounding on the plug will be left entirely untouched. That's why you need an adapter (or splice a power strip).

You do not want to be running heating elements inside of water without grounding, else how the hell would a ground fault circuit interruptor even work?

If something is rated for 3300 watts, then why do you think pushing 3000 watts through it would be a problem? Rated current is not equal to peak current.
 
Thanks for all the help podz, glad you mentioned the gfci tester. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of brew rig are you running over here in Germany?
 
Thanks for all the help podz, glad you mentioned the gfci tester. If you don't mind me asking, what kind of brew rig are you running over here in Germany?

I don't live in Germany, I live in Finland.

My electric rig is not finished yet, but I will use a three phase heating element. Looks pretty much like yours, but three phase instead of one. I have three phase power in my garage.
 
Back
Top