3-pin connectors, NEMA/UL rated? brewery safe?

[blackheart]

Moving on from 2 wire solonid valves to 3 wire motorized ball valves. All of the connectors and wiring needs to be re-done. We're wondering if their is a NEMA or UL rated 3-pin connector thats safe for being near water/beer/high temps.

We were looking on McMaster but most solutions are around $30+ for each connector... and at over 40 connectors needed, not practical. Brewers Hardware is using an M8 connector but these seem difficult to find and the rating of the connectors is unknown to us.

We also tried using Fiberglass braiding to protect the wires as it was the only inexpensive heat shielding option we could find. This turned out to be a poor product that resembled fiberglass mat with fibers shedding everywhere instead of the expected tightly woven nylon type strands.

So if anyone knows of or has a suggestion for a 3 pin connector, wire, or conduit thats heat resistant or brewing safe please let us know

 

[Sawdustguy]

This is what I plan for my solenoid valves:

They are available pretty cheaply from:http://www.oscsys.com/Connectors/

 

[blackheart]

Any idea what size those connectors are? Are they xlr connectors or smaller?

 

[bad coffee]

I don't know the ratings on those, but most XLR connectors are 6A @125.

Insulation:
http://cableorganizer.com/fiberglass/

I think you're SOL for high-temp+waterproof plugs that are cheap. Maybe something automotive?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/9004...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

B

 

[Sawdustguy]

I believe they are 5 amps and they are smaller than XLR Connectors.

 

[blackheart]

Sweet. Those look like a steal compared to others I have seen. Going to be placing an order for ball valves from them anyway so that makes the order easy.

Anyone have a recommendation for a heat resistant wire, conduit, or other general wire protection? Right now we are using 2" magnets with 2" split rings to hang bundles of wires away from the hot brew rig. We have already melted the insulation off of 3-4 wires who were suspended over the corners of the brew system and in the jet stream of heat. Also, spilled some hot wort on a bundle of wires, not to fun to clean up. Electronics + hot liquids dont play nice together.

 

[bad coffee]

just spend the cash and the time to put everything in conduit. Keep the tubes away from the hot parts of the brew system and you'll be farther ahead.

If you want to mess around with 105*C cable, and fiberglass insulation, go for it. Or you could just build the conduit and not have to worry about it.

JMO,
B

 

[blackheart]

just spend the cash and the time to put everything in conduit. Keep the tubes away from the hot parts of the brew system and you'll be farther ahead.

If you want to mess around with 105*C cable, and fiberglass insulation, go for it. Or you could just build the conduit and not have to worry about it.

JMO,
B

So what conduit would you recommend? Its 400-600F near the burners at times.


Sawdustguy - I see they have male cable plugs and female panel plugs... but no female cable plugs so I cant do a cable-cable connection to disconnect the valve if needed for cleaning. Trying to unthread a valve with a wire attached seems like a bad idea. Any ideas?

 

[Sawdustguy]

So what conduit would you recommend? Its 400-600F near the burners at times.


Sawdustguy - I see they have male cable plugs and female panel plugs... but no female cable plugs so I cant do a cable-cable connection to disconnect the valve if needed for cleaning. Trying to unthread a valve with a wire attached seems like a bad idea. Any ideas?

The way I see it after an exhaustive search you have two options:

1. Splice in a longer cable to your valves so you do not need to have a go between cable and can remove your valves.

2. Go to a XLR type connector

 

[blackheart]

I think I found one on E-Bay.... It looks like its the male in line cable connector for the same MIC connectors.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/3x-3-Pin-Male-M...ultDomain_0&hash=item43a3895316#ht_2640wt_952

I did some connector research today. Found out these MIC connectors were a 2+ multi pin design used mainly in older CB radio mic's hence why they are so cheap now and why their is mainly just the two types of connectors, and not all 4 possible combinations.

Now for the daunting task of ordering, counting, wiring, soldering, crimping, testing around 40 + connectors with 3x pins each.....


Still looking for suggestions for wire or conduit if anyone has them!

 

[bad coffee]

Can you re-route the wiring so it's below the burners, and as far away as you can get it?

It's not that cheap, but you can use ceramic insulation. I'd route the conduit as far below the burners and then wrap the conduit anywhere you need it.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#flexible-ceramic-insulation

B

 

[Sawdustguy]

I think I found one on E-Bay.... It looks like its the male in line cable connector for the same MIC connectors.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/3x-3-Pin-Male-M...ultDomain_0&hash=item43a3895316#ht_2640wt_952

I did some connector research today. Found out these MIC connectors were a 2+ multi pin design used mainly in older CB radio mic's hence why they are so cheap now and why their is mainly just the two types of connectors, and not all 4 possible combinations.

Now for the daunting task of ordering, counting, wiring, soldering, crimping, testing around 40 + connectors with 3x pins each.....


Still looking for suggestions for wire or conduit if anyone has them!

Blackheart, I don't know your first name but you are the man! I have looked high and low for that cable connector. The reason I picked these microphone connectors is because they can legitimately take the current. They can take 10 amps at 120 volts. I don't think the more modern DIN connectors can make that claim plus they are screw in so they can not accidentally come apart. I also like the fact that they are solderable and I don't rely on a crimp that can come apart.

As an FYI I run my temperature probe wires through my rig and I use an inner sleeve and outer sleeve of 1000* to 1500* ceramic insulation from mcmaster carr. I bought a 1/8" for use as an inner sleeve and 3/8" for the outer sleeve. It's not cheap but so far so good.

 

[blackheart]

Blackheart, I don't know your first name but you are the man! I have looked high and low for that cable connector. The reason I picked these microphone connectors is because they can legitimately take the current. They can take 10 amps at 120 volts. I don't think the more modern DIN connectors can make that claim plus they are screw in so they can not accidentally come apart. I also like the fact that they are solderable and I don't rely on a crimp that can come apart.

As an FYI I run my temperature probe wires through my rig and I use an inner sleeve and outer sleeve of 1000* to 1500* ceramic insulation from mcmaster carr. I bought a 1/8" for use as an inner sleeve and 3/8" for the outer sleeve. It's not cheap but so far so good.

It's Brett.

Yeah I am really liking these connectors. Trying to make anything and everything modular so future upgrades/mistakes can be made with less loss of materials and work. Really like the screw together feature that should protect it from a splash or two.

This isnt too bad at .37 cents a foot its 1500F is this what you are using?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#ceramic-sleeve-insulation/=9zsli9

This is the highest temp wire I could find.... at $5 a foot min its kinda pricey for 800F
http://www.mcmaster.com/#electrical-wire-cable-and-cords/=9zsnud

Seems to me it might be better to get an average cable and either sleeve all of them in the ceramic shielding individually or bundle them and sleeve them all together...

Yet again another trade off.... Heat protection tends to be braided, and any spill will go right in the braids.... yet any solid insulation is typically not heat resistant...... Right now we have average wires being held slightly away from the frame like I said before... Might just try some ceramic shielding in strategic places where cables go away from the bundle and towards the kettles.

Planning on figure this all out again.... then buying all of the new parts after the holidays. Again, I'm open to ideas!

 

[bad coffee]

I'd go with heat shrink under the ceramic. Looking online I found this stuff. I've never used it, so I can't vouch for it or it's price.
http://www.shrinktape.com/products/hi-shrink-tape/polymide.aspx

 

[blackheart]

Looks like I might have to go with selective application of shielding.... so just over the 6" or so of each wire that comes near the burners.... this way we can save some money. Still might go with a generally heat resistant wire though... maybe 200-400F.