3-in-1 "Boil Kettle, Jacketed Chiller, Conical Fermenter" by Brewha

[cuda6pak]

Jimmy82 - isn't it hard to gravity transfer to the keg on the last 5 gallons using your silicon tube setup? Not sure of the diminsions of that port to the top of a corny keg.

Also, in regards to clogging the dump valve. I'm assuming you are using pellets, are you using the stainless hop basket with it or just throwing them in loose?

 

[Jimmy82]

Jimmy82 - isn't it hard to gravity transfer to the keg on the last 5 gallons using your silicon tube setup? Not sure of the diminsions of that port to the top of a corny keg.

I still do a pressurized transfer, but instead of feeding it into the keg through the post (with the keg transfer line), I put the larger 1/2" tubing inside of the keg. I can fill both kegs in 5 minutes or less.

Also, in regards to clogging the dump valve. I'm assuming you are using pellets, are you using the stainless hop basket with it or just throwing them in loose?

Yes, I'm using pellet hops. I don't use the stainless basket for hops..it would be good for leaf hops or other additons (I brewed a star anise brown, and I tossed the star anise in the basket so I could remove it after the boil). A 1.5" butterfly valve should fix this problem as it's a common valve size on lots of small craft breweries.

 

[cuda6pak]

Gotcha. I would probably go that route for transfers as well.

Curious how the butterfly valve would work out, sounds like an easy solution.

 

[Jimmy82]

Gotcha. I would probably go that route for transfers as well.

Curious how the butterfly valve would work out, sounds like an easy solution.

I'll likely be able to let you know in a few weeks. I've got a batch of IPA that I still have to dry hop before I'm able to test out the new valve. There's a bit of debate on which would be better as the ball valve has 1" of full opening, whereas the butterfly has 1.5" opening, but the "disc" blocks part of the opening in the center even when fully opened. All I know is many small craft breweries use the 1.5" butterfly and it's proven to work well for them...it also has the benefit of not having to be disassembled to be cleaned (you can throw the whole thing in a bucket of PBW and Starsan without disassembling).

 

[Jimmy82]

The 2 valves for comparison:

 

[MeetsCriteria]

I have used the basket for pellet hops and while some does get through enough doesn't IMO to use. When I remove the basket it acts as a bit of a strainer so I loose less wort that way. Then I dump trub (around 32-48 oz worth approx) just prior to pitching yeast.

I've also thought of whirlpooling with a hop back (such as the hop rocket) in line as it chills...though I haven't tried that yet...the options are endless!

 

[Jimmy82]

I have used the basket for pellet hops and while some does get through enough doesn't IMO to use. When I remove the basket it acts as a bit of a strainer so I loose less wort that way. Then I dump trub (around 32-48 oz worth approx) just prior to pitching yeast.

I've also thought of whirlpooling with a hop back (such as the hop rocket) in line as it chills...though I haven't tried that yet...the options are endless!

My worry with the basket was more about hop utilization. I brew a lot of hoppy beers - the IPA I have fermenting has about 26oz of pellet hops in it. When those pellet hops take on liquid, they absolutely explode. I figured throwing hops right into the BIAC would be my best option, and dump pre-fermentation, and again before dry hopping. I'll see how it works out on the next brew.

 

[MeetsCriteria]

I could see that...that is a lot of hops so I understand the concern!

I was torn because I wondered how much would settle in the cone / where the valve is and just sort of compact there to some degree. Have sort of wondered about the flow dynamics with the element sitting higher in the cone...I know it boils like mad but still wonder about the bottom of the cone...

What made me even think of it was that I didn't have a basket at first. When I chilled and dumped trub, the valve was sort of plugged from the very beginning.

After implementing the basket, that has not been an issue. So I was actually worried about utilization because of settling in the cone, and that led to me getting the basket! I think the 1.5" valve will probably help though. If you've not used butterfly valves, they don't have the same flow control as ball valves. As you say, they are widely used, but as you know, our volumes are smaller than the commercial setting...

I also like to FWH, so the basket is nice for that as well.

 

[Jimmy82]

I was torn because I wondered how much would settle in the cone / where the valve is and just sort of compact there to some degree. Have sort of wondered about the flow dynamics with the element sitting higher in the cone...I know it boils like mad but still wonder about the bottom of the cone...

What made me even think of it was that I didn't have a basket at first. When I chilled and dumped trub, the valve was sort of plugged from the very beginning.

I was concerned with this at first as well. After brewing a couple of batches I'm fairly confident that the hops aren't ending up down there during the boil (or if they are, it doesn't seem to affect the hop utilization). There isn't really any way for me to tell by looking at it, but based on the hop levels I'm getting on my beers I'm fairly confident it's not causing a problem.

I also like to FWH, so the basket is nice for that as well.

I never actually thought of using it for FWH. I FWH'd the beer I have on now, but ran the pump for 15 or 20 seconds to make sure everything was in suspension once the boil got going.

That's the thing with this setup - there are so many options on how to do things

 

[MeetsCriteria]

That's the thing with this setup - there are so many options on how to do things

That is very true. It's so versatile, it's amazing!

 

[cuda6pak]

It just sits in the cooler. There is a shield around it that prevents the element contacting the sides, so no scorching etc. This is what it looks like:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BDB4UG/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I used that heater for a while to pre-heat my mash water which always worked great. It occurred to me I could use it as a cheap way to make a heater...and it works great.

The temp controller cuts the heat and pump on at the same time. Right now it comes on rarely (every few hours if that). In the height of winter it may be 50F in the basement so probably more often then.

It has occurred to me that you could get a drop in temp before an increase but I think the cooler maintains temp ok, probably better than the water jacket so this is probably not a problem. I have the throttle valve on the pump 1/4-1/2 closed in an effort to balance the system.

I've also considered using ice in the cooler as a cheap way to lager. Could probably have 2 x 1 gallon jugs, frozen and drop a new one in the cooler every morning while the other re-freezes. I'm sure this would work, but haven't implemented. Not quite as automated as a reef-chiller...but cheap, particularly if you make a lager only so often...

Just some thoughts.

Would that dual plug setup be too much for both an aquarium chiller and chugger pump all plugged into the same dual plug? Seems like the heat stick and pump would draw a lot less. Just trying to avoid having a pump run 24/7 instead of only as needed.

 

[MeetsCriteria]

Well, with an aquarium chiller (I don't have one), as I understand it, the pump runs continuously and you set the temp via the chiller. I'd recommend looking at the specs for the chiller you are considering. My understanding is that they designed to run at different flow rates and you match the pump (immersion pump) to the chiller.

That said, I don't see why you couldn't have it cut on and off by the temp controller. I would think that the chugger would work with some, but I haven't seriously looked at this option so can't speak educatedly on the topic. To me, the biggest question wold be how much power they draw when the cut on together, and whether the temp controller could take that.

Like you, I'm sure the compressor for the aquarium chiller draws more power than the heat stick.

 

[nackedei]

Well, I just bit the bullet and placed an order for a BIAC. Should ship out in about a week, and then arrive a week or so after that.

In other words, come mid-December I'll be peppering this board with questions!

 

[cuda6pak]

Picked up the glycol chiller today - it fit perfectly in my girlfriends Fiat 500

What size/how many gallons is that Glycol chiller? I do like the fact that glycol chillers have a pump and tank all in one convenient setup, but they are a bit more expensive than a comparable reef chiller which needs a separate supply tank for the source water. Any issues with running the pump constantly? Wonder how much that adds to the electric bill...

 

[Jimmy82]

What size/how many gallons is that Glycol chiller? I do like the fact that glycol chillers have a pump and tank all in one convenient setup, but they are a bit more expensive than a comparable reef chiller which needs a separate supply tank for the source water. Any issues with running the pump constantly? Wonder how much that adds to the electric bill...

I'm guessing it's about about 15 or 20 gallons. I got a really good deal on the glycol chiller, so it wasn't so bad. I haven't really noticed much of a difference with the electric bill - I don't think the pump uses much power TBH.

I haven't had any issues with the pump running constantly - that's how it's designed to work (this chiller is meant to service a trunk line for taps. In that situation, it constantly recirculates glycol through a trunk line that is wrapped in insulation with the tap lines). The bigger expense would be the power usage by the compressor, but as I mentioned, I haven't really noticed an increase in power.

 

[cuda6pak]

I'm guessing it's about about 15 or 20 gallons. I got a really good deal on the glycol chiller, so it wasn't so bad. I haven't really noticed much of a difference with the electric bill - I don't think the pump uses much power TBH.

I haven't had any issues with the pump running constantly - that's how it's designed to work (this chiller is meant to service a trunk line for taps. In that situation, it constantly recirculates glycol through a trunk line that is wrapped in insulation with the tap lines). The bigger expense would be the power usage by the compressor, but as I mentioned, I haven't really noticed an increase in power.

Ah, most of the glycol chillers in the 3-8 gallon range are around $1200 so that's pretty pricey. I did find a Teco TK-1000 reef chiller for $850 that has a built in heater, but I'd need to get another cooler and plumb the chiller to it, along with a pump so it seems to come out pretty similar in price, all while having a few extra things laying around. I wonder what the smallest glycol chiller you could get away with for the medium sized BIAC?

 

[Jimmy82]

Ah, most of the glycol chillers in the 3-8 gallon range are around $1200 so that's pretty pricey. I did find a Teco TK-1000 reef chiller for $850 that has a built in heater, but I'd need to get another cooler and plumb the chiller to it, along with a pump so it seems to come out pretty similar in price, all while having a few extra things laying around. I wonder what the smallest glycol chiller you could get away with for the medium sized BIAC?

Now you have me wondering on the actual capacity of the glycol chiller. It may be a bit smaller than I guessed - hadn't actually measured it.

I don't think you need much as it's constantly circulating at ferm temp (at least if you use it the way I am). You don't see a huge difference in the input vs output temp of the liquid coming out of the jacket.

 

[cuda6pak]

Now you have me wondering on the actual capacity of the glycol chiller. It may be a bit smaller than I guessed - hadn't actually measured it.

I don't think you need much as it's constantly circulating at ferm temp (at least if you use it the way I am). You don't see a huge difference in the input vs output temp of the liquid coming out of the jacket.

My only concern would be making sure there is enough liquid in the tank to fill the jacketed coils and still have a gallon or two in the glycol reservoir. There are some pretty small 2-3 gallon glycol chillers but the price goes up pretty good from there.

I think I am leaning towards this 7 gallon glycol chiller - http://rapidswholesale.com/glycol-chiller-7-gallon.html I like having the pump, reservoir and cooling unit all in one. Then I will just run an in-line reef heater (http://www.marinedepot.com/Hydor_ET...rium_Heaters-Hydor_USA-HD08103-FIHTIH-vi.html). I can upgrade the Ranco ETC to a dual stage so during fermentaiton I can plug the in-line heater to the heat side and have the compressor plugged into the cold side for full closed loop control with the minimal amount of components. This will be reading the beer temp as well instead of fluid through the coils, but I'm sure that's basically splitting hairs. The system would be constantly circulating.

My other idea was to run a TECO TK-1000 reef chiller that has a built-in heater (http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/teco-tank-tk-1000-aquarium-chiller) and purchase a square or round 10 gallon cooler and separate pump. But I like the compactness of having it all in one unit, plus when you add up the $900 reef chiller with a spare pump, spare cooler, hoses to/from, valves, etc it gets pretty damn close to the glycol chiller in price. The TK-500 may be able to handle it but I don't want to wonder if I can maintain crash cool temps in the middle of summer.


edit: Referencing an earlier post, the coils hold approximately 5 gallons of water, so I wonder if a 7 gallon glycol chiller would be enough...

 

[Jimmy82]

My only concern would be making sure there is enough liquid in the tank to fill the jacketed coils and still have a gallon or two in the glycol reservoir. There are some pretty small 2-3 gallon glycol chillers but the price goes up pretty good from there.

I think I am leaning towards this 7 gallon glycol chiller - http://rapidswholesale.com/glycol-chiller-7-gallon.html I like having the pump, reservoir and cooling unit all in one. Then I will just run an in-line reef heater (http://www.marinedepot.com/Hydor_ET...rium_Heaters-Hydor_USA-HD08103-FIHTIH-vi.html). I can upgrade the Ranco ETC to a dual stage so during fermentaiton I can plug the in-line heater to the heat side and have the compressor plugged into the cold side for full closed loop control with the minimal amount of components. This will be reading the beer temp as well instead of fluid through the coils, but I'm sure that's basically splitting hairs. The system would be constantly circulating.

My other idea was to run a TECO TK-1000 reef chiller that has a built-in heater (http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/teco-tank-tk-1000-aquarium-chiller) and purchase a square or round 10 gallon cooler and separate pump. But I like the compactness of having it all in one unit, plus when you add up the $900 reef chiller with a spare pump, spare cooler, hoses to/from, valves, etc it gets pretty damn close to the glycol chiller in price. The TK-500 may be able to handle it but I don't want to wonder if I can maintain crash cool temps in the middle of summer.


edit: Referencing an earlier post, the coils hold approximately 5 gallons of water, so I wonder if a 7 gallon glycol chiller would be enough...

You don't need a reservoir larger than the jacket because you fill the jacket, plus the reservoir.

Following my boil, I do the following:

1)Connect the solenoid to the input of the jacket, and connect tap water to chill hot wort. I let the tap water chill to about 80*F and the solenoid shuts off flow at that point.
2)Disconnect solenoid and tap water (jacket is full at this point) and connect glycol chiller to input & output of the jacket. This means that the glycol chiller is always full, and the jacket is full after doing the large portion of chilling with tap water.
3)Turn the glycol chiller on and continue chilling to fermentation temp from there.

 

[cuda6pak]

You don't need a reservoir larger than the jacket because you fill the jacket, plus the reservoir.

Following my boil, I do the following:

1)Connect the solenoid to the input of the jacket, and connect tap water to chill hot wort. I let the tap water chill to about 80*F and the solenoid shuts off flow at that point.
2)Disconnect solenoid and tap water (jacket is full at this point) and connect glycol chiller to input & output of the jacket. This means that the glycol chiller is always full, and the jacket is full after doing the large portion of chilling with tap water.
3)Turn the glycol chiller on and continue chilling to fermentation temp from there.

Hadn't thought about that. I wonder if a 2gallon glycol chiller would work? There's a few around $300-400 cheaper than the 7 gallon. Nathan mentioned the coils in the jacket only hold around 8L or 2 gallons of water.

 

[davehenry]

Great thread guys. I've been lurking here for some time reading about your successes with the Brew Ha. I came across the product this spring while working out ways to convert a conical into an electric brewpot. As it happens, Nathan works not far from my house and had one with him prior to shipping. I met up with him and viewed the BIAC up close in person. I vowed to purchase one by this fall but haven't got there yet.

Right now I'm working on my electrical outlets. I'm making other purchases including some Brewbucket fermenters because I brew outside on my deck or in my garage 2-3 days a month so will not use the Brewha for fermenting. I already use full volume mashing techniques via batch sparging so it should be easy equipment to step up to. I should have everything I nedd by Christmas time and will order my set up. Can't wait :rockin:

 

[jeffcosgrove]

I am looking into this system and hope that you guys can answer some questions. I want to brew 10 gallon batches for my standard brews but also want to do 5 gal batches for experimental or seasonal type beers. I'm not sure if I should get a separate mash tun. In addition, since I've always batched sparged I'ts hard for me to convince myself that no sparge will produce the same beer due to mash thickness.

Has anyone done a 5 gal batch on the 20 gal system? Any issues with all of the deadspace? Have to put in more water and boil off more?

I brew about 50% lagers and was wondering what size (hp) aquarium chiller I would need to be able to bring down to 33 F? My basement is around 68 deg in the summer.

Do aquarium chillers with heaters allow you to set the temperature that low, or do you need an external controller?

Thanks.

 

[davehenry]

I do both sparge and no sparge with my 15 gallon cooler and the only difference that I find with no sparge is a slightly maltier finish and about 3-5% less efficiency. I would assume that recirculating the wort with this system would lessen the efficiency margins.

I'm also interested in how five gallon batches work in the medium BIAC. I still haven't decided between the small and medium versions. I normally brew five gallon batches, sometimes two a day. But I could see myself doing tens. The five gallon system is way more portable and might work better for me as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[jeffcosgrove]

I satisfied myself that mash thickness is not an issue with some research:

http://braukaiser.com/wiki/index.ph...ncy_in_single_infusion_mashing#Mash_thickness

I also found that the Teco TK-1000 does allow you to have a setpoint down to 32 deg. It also looks like this is more than adequate to cool down to 32 deg in my basement since it will drop a 55 gal system 39 deg. Where can I find a comparable glycol chiller with accessible tank to install a heater?

EDIT - The temp display goes down to 32 deg, but when you read the manual the lowest setpoint is 41 deg. Anyone know of an aquarium chiller that will go down to 33 deg?

I would still like to hear any experiences anyone has had making 5 (I guess 6 gal is minimum) batches on the medium BIAC.

 

[cuda6pak]

Well, pulled the trigger yesterday. my medium BIAC should be shipping sometime next week Cancelled the TCV solenoid and sub'd it with the keg to fermentor hose. Still waffling between the glycol chiller and Reef chiller, but I think my mind is switched back to a TECO TK-500 (or 1000) and a small 10 gallon cooler. I like the built in heater and essentially dual stage temp controller, so I can just set the recirculating water to ferment temp and be done with it.

I'll defer the 5 gallon mashes to somebody with the system. As mentioned the biggest problem with that is the dead space below the collander.

jeff - I also assumed the TK would go down to 32 based on what it said. Sucks it's only 41*. But I suppose a 41* cold crash should be able to drop out most stuff.

What I don't quite understand with the glycol chiller, is that say you have the chiller constantly recirculating and the cold side hooked up to to say an STC-1000 reading beer temp set to 60*, but the LCD internal set point on the chiller to 40*, will it drop the recirculating water down to 40* until it hits the set point of the STC-1000? Or will it basically bypass the internal LCD controller all together and bring the water down as cold as possible (thus freezing the unit if only using water) until the STC-1000 kicks it off?

 

[jeffcosgrove]

EDIT I read your post wrong. Once the STC-1000 sees that the temperature of the beer is 60* it shuts down power to the chiller and you are just pumping water through a powerless chiller with the aquarium setup. So that raises the question how do you run a glycol chiller with an internal pump if you want to use an external controller to be able to program temperature schedules? I think you would want to install a check valve when running with an internal pump. Any glycol chillers without an internal pump?

Someone had mentioned an inline Hydor heater and I saw a bunch of bad reviews about them, but I did find this:

http://www.aquariumplants.com/Lifegard_Aquatics_Single_Heater_Module_AF_92_p/pen30318.htm

The problem I have with the glycol chillers is I don't know the specs of the pump and what kind of pressure drop would go through this and the fermenter jacket. I also wanted to spec out a pump myself for fun.

 

[jeffcosgrove]

If you read the TK-1000 manual it shows that you can set up to 19 deg offset to compensate for probe differential. I wonder if you could cheat the chiller into going below 41* this way or if this is just for temp display purposes?

http://www.tecous.com/files/TANK_TK-500_1000_2000_Manual.pdf

 

[Jimmy82]

EDIT I read your post wrong. Once the STC-1000 sees that the temperature of the beer is 60* it shuts down power to the chiller and you are just pumping water through a powerless chiller with the aquarium setup. So that raises the question how do you run a glycol chiller with an internal pump if you want to use an external controller to be able to program temperature schedules? I think you would want to install a check valve when running with an internal pump. Any glycol chillers without an internal pump?.

I use the STC-1000 only to monitor the chiller bath, not the wort temp. I use the Ranco that comes with the BIAC to monitor wort temp, but it doesn't adjust anything..just displays the actual temp. Even at the peak of fermentation, the temp never budged even a degree over the 10 or so batches I've brewed.

 

[jeffcosgrove]

What model is your chiller? Do you have a check valve installed, or do you keep the total water amount less than the resevoir amount?

 

[cuda6pak]

EDIT I read your post wrong. Once the STC-1000 sees that the temperature of the beer is 60* it shuts down power to the chiller and you are just pumping water through a powerless chiller with the aquarium setup. So that raises the question how do you run a glycol chiller with an internal pump if you want to use an external controller to be able to program temperature schedules? I think you would want to install a check valve when running with an internal pump. Any glycol chillers without an internal pump?

But will it recirculate 40* water as per the internal set point on the actual glycol chiller until the wort temp hits 60*? Or will it continually run the compressor on the glycol chiller as cold as it possibly can go (ie below freezing) until that 60* wort temp is hit?

jimmy82 - where did you run your STC-1000 temp probe into your glycol chiller? Cut a hole in the cap to the tank or is there a spot open to set it inside? Not sure how tanks really work on glycol chillers as I've never seen one. Not sure if they are open to the atmosphere making filling easy, have a cap, or sealed off, etc.

 

[Jimmy82]

What model is your chiller? Do you have a check valve installed, or do you keep the total water amount less than the resevoir amount?

No check valve installed and I have the jacket full, plus the reservoir full. If the power goes off on the chiller it doesn't flow back into the reservoir (if that's what you're thinking of?)

I'm honestly not sure of the model of the chiller - couldn't find much for markings on it.

 

[Jimmy82]

But will it recirculate 40* water as per the internal set point on the actual glycol chiller until the wort temp hits 60*? Or will it continually run the compressor on the glycol chiller as cold as it possibly can go (ie below freezing) until that 60* wort temp is hit?

jimmy82 - where did you run your STC-1000 temp probe into your glycol chiller? Cut a hole in the cap to the tank or is there a spot open to set it inside? Not sure how tanks really work on glycol chillers as I've never seen one. Not sure if they are open to the atmosphere making filling easy, have a cap, or sealed off, etc.

I just ran it in with the probe that was built into the glycol chiller. I modified the wiring slightly to bypass the built in probe and utilize the STC probe instead. On the chiller I have, there are lots of spots you can pop a probe through to have it sitting in the reservoir. There are actually 10 or so "caps" that pop out on the chiller I have, various sizes, and they give you access to the reservoir. There is a cover to go over top of all of that to make it look nice, but I generally don't have it on.

 

[limulus]

Comments and Questions for those using these systems

This is a really good thread full of lots of great experience. I was planning to buy some pro equipment next month and put it into storage until I find a place that can be used for a small commercial operation...and find somebody to help me run it.

I was going to buy a 3bbl electric brew house from Stout and two 7bbl jacketed conicals and 2 7bbl jacketed BBTs next month. But I've been looking at these BIAC systems for a few days now and two of the large BIACs would brew 3BBL for about $11.4k. Now if I understand how this whole thing works, I could just buy additional 3-in-1s in multiples of two and add another 3bbl, correct? I'm not sure how big the large system is, but I can imagine it being just maybe 1.5x the diameter of a 55g drum and probably about 1.5x taller. That would fit quite easily into my 3-car garage and keep my wife's car in there with room to spare until I find a suitable space to set it up.

Like others, I like the sealed nature of these things and I hate the clean-up after I'm finished brewing. But who really likes cleaning their brewing equipment? I have to also agree that Nathan responds extremely fast and I have been impressed with that.

I currently home brew on a system similar but just not sealed. It uses a 10gal kettle with the bottom cut out and a false bottom inside a 15gal kettle. I heat with a propane burner and then recirc through a RIMS tube. It works great and you can sparge. I use a 10gal beverage cooler as an HLT when I want to sparge and I use an electric hoist mounted to my garage ceiling to lift the inner MT. I also lift/lower that to control the flow of wort or sparge water. Even going 100% no-sparge, I get 70-72% efficiency.

So for those of you who have used these for a while, do you see any potential in the large system being used commercially for a small start-up as advertised? Fermentation and conditioning/BBT are always the bottleneck in a commercial brewery and this is no different. You just add more. It also seems to me that you can operate in a much smaller space with this. The one downside is the cool factor of a 3-piece brewhouse and the big stainless platform that you don't get with this. So if you were giving a brewery tour, this would definitely allow you to give a new experience in brewhouse/cellaring techniques to those who have toured small breweries and seen the traditional brewhouse.

I envision using the large 55g systems with a commercial tankless water heater if I want to sparge. For cooling, a small glycol system. Keeping them warm in winter would be done with some sort of electric HLT tank. Am I missing something, or could this work?

 

[adman]

Thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing their experiences, particularly MeetsCriteria and Jimmy82. I have a question for MeetsCriteria or anyone else who has a medium BIAC with the Stout Tanks racking arm: what is the minimum amount of liquid left in the cone when using the racking arm? For anyone who does not have the racking arm, how much liquid is left in the bottom of the cone when you transfer from the racking port?

Thanks!

 

[Jimmy82]

Thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing their experiences, particularly MeetsCriteria and Jimmy82. I have a question for MeetsCriteria or anyone else who has a medium BIAC with the Stout Tanks racking arm: what is the minimum amount of liquid left in the cone when using the racking arm? For anyone who does not have the racking arm, how much liquid is left in the bottom of the cone when you transfer from the racking port?

Thanks!

I don't have the racking arm, but would guess it's about 2-4 liters without it. It's typically all hop sludge (I throw my pellet hops directly in the beer and don't use the baskets). I haven't "required" the racking arm, but it could likely be a nice addition if you wanted to buy it. I'll probably get one down the road.

 

[MeetsCriteria]

Thanks to everyone in this thread for sharing their experiences, particularly MeetsCriteria and Jimmy82. I have a question for MeetsCriteria or anyone else who has a medium BIAC with the Stout Tanks racking arm: what is the minimum amount of liquid left in the cone when using the racking arm? For anyone who does not have the racking arm, how much liquid is left in the bottom of the cone when you transfer from the racking port?

Thanks!

I just happen to be brewing right now so thought I would check. This is for the 16 gal 3-in-1 mind you so may be n/a for the current mod. Nevertheless...

From bottom of the racking arm to empty was 30 oz.

From the bottom of the racking arm to the racking port was 38 oz.

Hope this helps! I took a pic but can't post just yet...

 

[cuda6pak]

How are you guys cleaning your 3-in-1? Trying to figure out an econominal way without using too much water to fill it for soaking. Anybody using a CIP ball? Soaking/recirculating with the full 20 gal? Less?

 

[MeetsCriteria]

How are you guys cleaning your 3-in-1? Trying to figure out an econominal way without using too much water to fill it for soaking. Anybody using a CIP ball? Soaking/recirculating with the full 20 gal? Less?

I just clean it like regular SS. So easy. Just need a scouring pad (synthetic) and bar keeper's friend for recalcitrant deposits. Then I rinse with RO water and dry with a towel. Very simple.

 

[nackedei]

What are y'all doing for oxygenation in the thing? While there's some shaking going on in one of the videos posted, that's not gonna cut it for most of us.

I was hoping to keep it part of the closed system, so I was looking at morebeer's tri clover diffusion stone wand, but it's only 6", and that won't do coming down in from the lid. An inline set-up with the pump connecting the racking port to the lid is one option, but it's expensive and seemingly a pain in the ass.

Thoughts?

 

[limulus]

What are y'all doing for oxygenation in the thing? While there's some shaking going on in one of the videos posted, that's not gonna cut it for most of us.

I was hoping to keep it part of the closed system, so I was looking at morebeer's tri clover diffusion stone wand, but it's only 6", and that won't do coming down in from the lid. An inline set-up with the pump connecting the racking port to the lid is one option, but it's expensive and seemingly a pain in the ass.

Thoughts?

I asked Nathan about that in a recent email and he is aware of the need for this. I think he is working on this at least as an option.