I had the "brilliant" idea .....Being the genius I am, I unscrewed the tri-clamp and pulled out the probe. There is nothing like a blast of 150 sugar water on your leg. The only way to fix this was hold my hand over that hole and quickly get the fitting reattached. That will NEVER happen to me again.
Hello Lads,
I was going to try using CO2 to transfer beer from the 3-in-1 to a keg. But I don't have the right parts for the CO2 post (I thought I did, but I was wrong!). For those using CO2 to transfer, what parts did you use to do this?
While I don't have a 3-1 (yet), on my Brewhemoth I use a TC fitting like this that adapts right to a normal beer tailpiece I use for everything.
http://www.brewershardware.com/1-1.5-Tri-Clover-Compatible-X-Male-Beer-Thread.html
I guess you could get a 1/4" NPT to 1/4" MFL then screw on an 1/4" swivel.
I'm sure there are adapter kits that let you build up from a 1/4" MFL to a corny base then to a pin or ball lock post, but I don't know where to find those off the top of my head.
I've been using just a barbed tri-clamp hose directly do the 3-in-1 lid, but have since purchased the adapter fitting and corny keg post, mostly because I use a second tank of CO2 to move the beer and it's nice to be able to quickly use it to force carb kegs waiting in line for the keezer.
Here's a link to the adapter fitting you are asking about for the 3-in-1 tri-clamp FPT to corny keg post
http://www.homebrewing.org/Plug-Adapter-14-MPT-x-1932_p_4640.html
Just got back from Homebrew Conference where I met Nathan and I can say that I am even more impressed with the 3-in-1 now than before. I will be ordering it next month once I sell off my eHERMs setup.
Well I think the verdict is in. My little 1/6HP TK500 chiller even with insulated lines and partially insulated BIAC just can't cut it for cold crashing temps in a garage at 85*+. Turned it on last night and after 12hrs of continuous running the best it could do was 45* jacket water temp.
Now the question is whether to get a 3/8HP glycol setup or purchase a more powerful TK2000 chiller that is 1/3HP. I really like the functionality of the all-in-1 system of the TK chiller, but I don't want to spend another $1000 and not be able to cold crash with ease like a glycol setup.
Hi all, I've been getting some help from Nathan at BREWHA about this question. He is a fantastic help, and I want to give him all the credit in the world. He has given me help on a number of fronts since I began researching and bought a BIAC medium back in November 2014. (I don't get any compensation or benefits for saying this. I truly have a lot of appreciation for all his help.)
Question is: Have any of you used the racking hose and had any issues with plugging inside the tube? I began racking to a keg and after about a gallon passed through with no problem, it stopped flowing. I must have spent the better part of another 2 hours messing with cleaning out the racking valve, the beer out tube, the disconnect on the end of the racking hose. I flushed the racking valve and reconnected the hose. still no flow. this went on and on.
I realize there are some variables here, which would end up affecting how much trub/yeast particles could be suspended in the beer I am trying rack. This was only the second time I have used this system. This was a 10 gallon batch of high gravity, Belgian golden strong ale. The first was a 5 gallon batch. I did not have this same thing happen on the first batch (I had other problems due to inexperience with the ball lock quick disconnect. no issues with the QD this time)
I had an enormous issue with kegging last Sunday and it could have been an issue with plugging in the tube, although I did not take time to dismantle the hose and ream it out. It was quite late on Sunday/Monday am. I had to punt, and angled my kegs at the racking port and let it fly into the kegs.
Anyhow, if you have had an issue like this with the 3 in 1 or BIAC, I'd love to hear your thoughts. As mentioned, Nathan has already emailed his thoughts, which are: haven't had it happen, and have not heard of it as yet.
Sante! (Flemish for Cheers!) I like Belgian beer.
Ron8
Since I'm posting on this thread again, I'll post my newest addition. My recent brew was an IPA and my mash colander drained very slowly. The perforated bottom was clogged. I looked for a slotted bottom that would fit over that and I think I may have found the perfect solution. I got this at Adventures in Homebrewing. It is a 2-piece design and fit right into the bottom of my medium mash colander. I plan to brew this weekend or early next week.
http://www.homebrewing.org/SS-Pico-Style-False-Bottom-bottom-only-No-Feet_p_4587.html
What is your mill gap set at?
That was ground by Brewmasters Warehouse before they went out of business. I have a 3-roller mill now that I have not used yet.
I wonder if there was another cause..seems odd that it wouldn't drain. I've done some very fine crush, and some fairly coarse crush with the BIAC and have never had an issue with the colander not draining.
Nathan just put up a new youtube video about valves. The last valve he featured would be the ideal valve, but it is enormous in size. I'd love to have that for my bottom drain but I think it would be too long and too close to the floor. For now, my butterfly valves work just fine on the bottom and racking ports. The multi-piece ball valves that came with my BIAC are still very nice and I don't think there is a homebrew system on the market with better valves than those that come with the BIAC.
If you wanted to go with the valve you mentioned, you could put a 1.5" 90° elbow on the bottom of your conical before adding the valve. Should eliminate the clearance problem.
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