3-in-1 "Boil Kettle, Jacketed Chiller, Conical Fermenter" by Brewha

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A question for the gycol pump users from someone considering this option: What is the thought process behind switching back and forth from municipal (well water in my case) to glycol?

Nevermind. Thinking about it a bit, I would guess the issue relates to the inability to re-cool the glycol after the first run given the small volume relative to the thermal mass of the hot wort. Therefore, using water from the faucet to cool to pitching temperatures then then hooking up the glycol pump to maintain temperatures.

Let me adjust my question slightly. How do you handle ramp up temperatures in a glycol pump set up? Just use the element at 1%?

You're reasoning on switching back and forth is correct.

I ramp up temperature by using an aquarium heater submersed in the glycol chiller bath. The glycol chiller and aquarium heater are plugged into a dual stage temperature controller that has heating & cooling functionality.
 
You're reasoning on switching back and forth is correct.

I ramp up temperature by using an aquarium heater submersed in the glycol chiller bath. The glycol chiller and aquarium heater are plugged into a dual stage temperature controller that has heating & cooling functionality.

Are you using an STC-1000? I built one just recently for the same purpose. I was planning to use a bucket heater instead of an aquarium heater. But, the aquarium heater may work better with the STC 1000 since I think the bucket heater draws too many amps.
 
Are you using an STC-1000? I built one just recently for the same purpose. I was planning to use a bucket heater instead of an aquarium heater. But, the aquarium heater may work better with the STC 1000 since I think the bucket heater draws too many amps.

Yup. STC-1000 with 300W aquarium heater submersed in the liquid bath.

Azdduec.jpg
 
Hello. I just use the heating element at 3% plugged into the auber temp controller the system comes with and it holds temp within 1.5 degrees
 
Hello Guys, for those of you who have had your BIAC in the warmer months did you have trouble cooling? I have only had mine since January and the water was cold. I just checked our water temp and it is now 66F. I still have a 40 plate chiller mounted to a stand with a pump that I can use with my old Cold Liquor Tank if necessary. But I wonder how it will cool with 66F water. The 66F was inside, maybe it is colder from an outside faucet.
 
Hey there. I am using a glycol chiller with 20% mix. I can still get boil temp down to 80-85 degrees with muni water then let the glycol chiller do the rest. It takes about 30 minutes to go from 85 to 65-68.
 
Hey there. I am using a glycol chiller with 20% mix. I can still get boil temp down to 80-85 degrees with muni water then let the glycol chiller do the rest. It takes about 30 minutes to go from 85 to 65-68.

Yeah, I have a glycol chiller too. I have not used it yet and I forgot that all I have to do is get it down below 100 and then switch to glycol which was my plan back when I bought this stuff...doh! I even posted a photo of it on the previous page. Sometimes I need a good kick in the head to get me going.
 
Just to add to the thread after about 6 or 7 brews, I just purchased some sanitary 304SS butterfly valves from Glacier referenced earlier in the thread. I've found that even moderately hopped beer can plug up the port with ease.
 
Still love the butterfly valves! They are so much easier to clean and far less bulky than the ball valves. The butterfly valves can be cleaned in place if you wish. I use a butterfly on the bottom and the cone. Everywhere else, I kept the ball valves since those areas are for the mash recirc or the cooling jacket.

I only have the one hop basket with my BIAC but I also have two of these from Amazon. I can easily get 1oz of whole Cascade Hops into one of these. I've never come close to filling one with pellets. As you can see, they are a lot less expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004X4LGIO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

DSC_0267.jpg
 
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I have the butterfly valves from glacier as well. I tried just throwing hop pellets right into my last batch with no strainer. The butterfly valve clogged bad. Even with a little co2 pressure I couldn't unplug. I had to use a fiberglass pull through rod and jammed it up the bottom. Needless to say I will be using the hop baskets going forward. I will be making a "hop venom" clone this weekend. The beer from boneyard. It will be intense!! 38 lbs of grains and 17oz of hops! Should be interesting.
 
Holy crap! That is a lot of grain and hops I assume that is going to be 1/2 bbl. You must have a lot of people coming over to drink that much beer.
 
I have the butterfly valves from glacier as well. I tried just throwing hop pellets right into my last batch with no strainer. The butterfly valve clogged bad. Even with a little co2 pressure I couldn't unplug. I had to use a fiberglass pull through rod and jammed it up the bottom. Needless to say I will be using the hop baskets going forward. I will be making a "hop venom" clone this weekend. The beer from boneyard. It will be intense!! 38 lbs of grains and 17oz of hops! Should be interesting.

Wow, was hoping the butterfly valves would be clog proof! I have been throwing the hops in loose so far, was a little worried of not getting the full aroma of the hops by using a strainer. The hop basket from Brewha seems like it would let most/all of the pellets through the strainer, its a bit more coarse than say a tea strainer.
 
Lol. I know. It is for 10 gallons! There are mash additions. First wort additions. Keg hopping and dry hopping. I will take some photos today and post.
 
My IPA uses 33.5oz of pellet hops in a 10 gallon batch (1.5oz @ 60 min, 16oz at flameout and 16oz dry hop). I've been using butterfly valves and don't have an issue with clogging. Sometimes it's a slow drain, but I haven't had to do anything other than apply a little pressure/work the valve to release the hop plug.
 
My IPA uses 33.5oz of pellet hops in a 10 gallon batch (1.5oz @ 60 min, 16oz at flameout and 16oz dry hop). I've been using butterfly valves and don't have an issue with clogging. Sometimes it's a slow drain, but I haven't had to do anything other than apply a little pressure/work the valve to release the hop plug.

Do you throw the pellets in loose?
 
How do you not clog?

1.5" bore on the valve and pressure seems to work. Lots of small breweries use 1.5" butterfly valves on their tanks along with pellet hops. Not sure why this would be any different.
 
Is there a way to whirlpool in the BIAC? Is it even necessary? I'm wondering about hop steeping with ipa's. Usually I whirlpool them in my boil kettle to keep them suspended. Could I recirculate from the bottom and then back in through the racking port?

Here's a radical way to whirlpool:

Rather than buying a Brewha, I will save a few bucks by modifying a 1/2 barrel SSBrewtech chronical to take a Blichmann 20 gal BoilCoil heater (should fit perfectly) and use the temp control lid for chilling and fermentation control. Here's a link to SSBrewtech

http://www.ssbrewtech.com/collections/ftss/products/ftss-temperature-control-for-half-barrel-chronical

I will also add a whirlpool port and recirculate the wort during chilling. The BoilCoil, being circular, should not interfere with the whirlpool. On the outlet of the pump I will have a trub strainer from Brewers Hardware. Here's a link to the strainer.

https://www.brewershardware.com/Trub-Strainer/

As the wort cools and is circulated out the bottom port and through the pump, the trub will be filtered out prior to the wort returning to the fermentor through the whirlpool port.....just like flushing a toilet <GG>

Mashing will be similar to Blichmann's BrewEasy system, with the fermentor acting as a lauter grant for heating and recirculating the wort to the mash tun (a 70qt Coleman Extreme modified to have a mesh screen false bottom).
Optional sparging with a second Coleman cooler HLT via gravity.

The entire system should be under $1900, including a BIAB 240V controller (DIY).

I call this the FUBAR system
Fermentor
Used for
Boiling
And
Recirculation
 
I think that would work but for just a little more, you can buy a brand new glycol chiller from Rapids Wholesale. An aquarium chiller or a bucket heater controlled by an STC-1000 would control the heat when needed.
 
I think that would work but for just a little more, you can buy a brand new glycol chiller from Rapids Wholesale. An aquarium chiller or a bucket heater controlled by an STC-1000 would control the heat when needed.


Sorry for the rookie question but with those wouldn't you need a separate cooler for the reservoir? This multitemp solution looks like the reservoir is built in so all contained with just one device vs. pumps and coolers etc.
 
I took some photos of mine as I was unboxing it. You can see it with the top on and then the top off. This one holds 3-gallons. The copper coil is a closed loop and that cools the mixture in the reservoir. The pump circulates the mixture in the reservoir through the jacket and back to the reservoir. The return inlet is right over the copper coil. At first, I was also going to use a separate reservoir and my old copper immersible chiller connected to the pump, but I'm going to just circulate constant 68F glycol mix directly from the main reservoir. If I need to heat next winter, I'll use an aquarium pump placed inside the reservoir. When it is time to crash cool, I'll just lower the temp on the chiller.

I took a brewing course last year at a brewery and I learned how to make a loop with multiple fermenters. It would also work with these if anyone decides to buy extra 3-in-1s.

In the first photo, you are looking at the chiller with the top on. The pump is on the left and you can see the inlet and outlet on the right side. The return inlet is far right.

The second photo is with the lid off and you can see the bottom of the pump on the left. It has a dip tube which inserts into the reservoir. On the far right you can see the return inlet which is a copper tube.

DSC_0283.jpg


DSC_0285.jpg
 
Has anyone purchased or used the wort aeration stone?

I have a Williams Oxygenation kit sitting around that I just need a Oxygen tank for that I'll probably use. But so far every batch I've done has been using dry yeast.
 
I purchased the aeration stone from other than Brewha and all the items Nathan noted in his instructions. Haven't used it yet though.
 
Hello Lads, last night I was gearing up to run my glycol system for the first time. As some know I have not used the jacket on my system yet. Last night, I removed the tri-clamp and the hose barb that I had on the jacket exit. For some reason, I stuck my finger inside and I felt what I thought was a weld all the way around. I got a light and could see that it was black flux or whatever the stuff is called. It formed a bead all the way around. There was just a small spot where water could actually pass. I took photos and sent them to Nathan at about 1:30 am ET. This morning at 9:30 am ET (6:30 in Vancouver), I received a call from Nathan. He was a little surprised that I had not used it to it's full extent after 4 months. But I wanted to get it bought before a price increase went into effect. He suggested that I connect it to my faucet and let water fill it from the top (exit) port. I did that for about 5 minutes. I placed a mesh bag over the end of the exit hose to catch anything that came out. Then I switched the hoses to the normal way. I even turned it up eventually to full force without any pressure regulator with zero damage (but still pay attention to your water pressure!). More of the black stuff broke free after about 15-minutes but there was obviously at least 50% still there. So, I cut a piece of fairly stiff gauge wire and bent the ends into hooks. I was able to get most of the stuff clear. BTW, Nathan told me he would replace it if I could not clear the port. Even with mine 90% blocked, I was able to run water through it with no damage. But don't restrict the flow! It is not recommended. I don't think this has happened to anyone else, but just for an extra precaution, check your top jacket exit ports. If you see something that concerns you, document it and contact Nathan. Just as he always has, he contacted me in a very reasonable time. As a matter of fact, he called me again at 11:25am ET to make sure I had his phone number. I'm probably more satisfied with my purchase now.

First photo:
top exit port
Second Photo:
wire I used and the last big chunk
Third photo:
the mesh bag and debris

DSC_0297.jpg


DSC_0298.jpg


DSC_0299.jpg
 
That is crazy. I didn't even think to do that upon my first go around with the jacket and I got lucky. When I drained my glycol mix the first time, ( I drain about 2 gallons into a 5 gallon bucket because my reservoir is only 7 gallons and the jacket takes about 2-3 ) I noticed a ton of that black stuff in the mix. I strained it out so I could use the mix again. I consider myself lucky that it didn't clog to bad a cause a pressure build up. Now that I have used the jacket with glycol 6 times, when I drain after use it is nice and clean. Thanks for the info limulous you saved someone some headache and disappointment for sure!!
 
What the biggest beer anyone has brewed in a BIAC? How much grain and how much water went into the BIAC?
 
How has everyone connected with regards to power?
With the new digital power box, does anyone have a GFIC spa box or portable GFIC in the system? If so where do you have the GFIC, between the heating element and the power box, or between the power box and the wall plug (assuming a dryer plug is the power source)?
 
I just brewed a hop venom clone. 40 lbs of grain and 75 liters Of water due to 90 minute mash 90 minute boil. When I finished adding all grain I had an overflow of probably 2 liters of water out of the top of the BIAC. Arrrgggg pain in the ass to clean. So my opinion is it maxes out at 36 pounds and 72 liters.
 
It depends on a few factors but according to Nathan the medium BIAC mash tun can hold approximately 45lbs of grain.
 
How has everyone connected with regards to power?
With the new digital power box, does anyone have a GFIC spa box or portable GFIC in the system? If so where do you have the GFIC, between the heating element and the power box, or between the power box and the wall plug (assuming a dryer plug is the power source)?


I have the old-style power box and I had a dryer outlet installed in my garage. I also bought a GFCI plug that someone else posted early in the thread that goes between the element and the box. I had a spa panel on my deck and I should have just had that moved into my garage.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OZY2Y4C/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
 
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Hello Lads, last night I was gearing up to run my glycol system for the first time. As some know I have not used the jacket on my system yet. Last night, I removed the tri-clamp and the hose barb that I had on the jacket exit. For some reason, I stuck my finger inside and I felt what I thought was a weld all the way around. I got a light and could see that it was black flux or whatever the stuff is called. It formed a bead all the way around. There was just a small spot where water could actually pass. I took photos and sent them to Nathan at about 1:30 am ET. This morning at 9:30 am ET (6:30 in Vancouver), I received a call from Nathan. He was a little surprised that I had not used it to it's full extent after 4 months. But I wanted to get it bought before a price increase went into effect. He suggested that I connect it to my faucet and let water fill it from the top (exit) port. I did that for about 5 minutes. I placed a mesh bag over the end of the exit hose to catch anything that came out. Then I switched the hoses to the normal way. I even turned it up eventually to full force without any pressure regulator with zero damage (but still pay attention to your water pressure!). More of the black stuff broke free after about 15-minutes but there was obviously at least 50% still there. So, I cut a piece of fairly stiff gauge wire and bent the ends into hooks. I was able to get most of the stuff clear. BTW, Nathan told me he would replace it if I could not clear the port. Even with mine 90% blocked, I was able to run water through it with no damage. But don't restrict the flow! It is not recommended. I don't think this has happened to anyone else, but just for an extra precaution, check your top jacket exit ports. If you see something that concerns you, document it and contact Nathan. Just as he always has, he contacted me in a very reasonable time. As a matter of fact, he called me again at 11:25am ET to make sure I had his phone number. I'm probably more satisfied with my purchase now.

I am glad you learned from my experience and took the necessary pre-cautions. I hope others read this and do the same.

As for Nathan saying this: "BTW, Nathan told me he would replace it if I could not clear the port", I would say this wins the award for the most empty promise on the planet. He excels at talking the talk, but the walking the walk escapes him entirely.
 
Hello Everyone, I thought I'd post a photo of my BIAC with the glycol chiller running. I brewed this batch on Saturday and it is still bubbling just a little five days later. The BIAC maintains the temperature very well and the glycol is not needed as often as I thought. I chilled it as far as I could with city water and I did not use the pressure regulator I bought. I'm not using it for the glycol either. Right now, I just have the Ranco turning the glycol chiller on when needed. Next time, I will use a T fitting and the electric valve that came with the BIAC. The chiller will just run all the time and the valve will divert it to the jacket when needed.

I will be crashing this down to the 30s soon. Do any of you with glycol chillers have any advice?

In this photo, you can see some condensation but so far, I have not had any puddling on the floor of my garage. I know that as summer progresses and it gets humid, I'll have some on the floor. I may buy the neoprene jacket if I don't come up with my own way to control condensation.

I am really like this!

DSC_0357.jpg
 
Just finished up brewing with the new 316SS butterfly valves from Glacier on the dump port and racking port. Brewed "Hop Fu" with about 13oz of hops before the boil and forgot to put whirfloc in. Unfortunately I still managed to plug the dump valve up and even with jamming a knife and keg dip tube cleaner through the bottom of the valve I still couldn't get it to unplug. Im in the middle of changing my CO2 setup around so I wasn't able to hit it with CO2 to try and release it, so now its fermenting away with all those hops and crud still sitting at the bottom. Hoping the strong amount of hops in it doesn't screw up any of the flavor while sitting in it all through fermentation. I may try to hit it with CO2 in a few days when I get my gas post fitting in. And otherwise extremely frustrating end to a pretty good brew day...was hoping these valves would eliminate this issue.
 
Just finished up brewing with the new 316SS butterfly valves from Glacier on the dump port and racking port. Brewed "Hop Fu" with about 13oz of hops before the boil and forgot to put whirfloc in. Unfortunately I still managed to plug the dump valve up and even with jamming a knife and keg dip tube cleaner through the bottom of the valve I still couldn't get it to unplug. Im in the middle of changing my CO2 setup around so I wasn't able to hit it with CO2 to try and release it, so now its fermenting away with all those hops and crud still sitting at the bottom. Hoping the strong amount of hops in it doesn't screw up any of the flavor while sitting in it all through fermentation. I may try to hit it with CO2 in a few days when I get my gas post fitting in. And otherwise extremely frustrating end to a pretty good brew day...was hoping these valves would eliminate this issue.

Sorry to hear it. Regarding the beer though, I wouldn't worry about fermenting with the hop and break debris in the fermentor. I speak from personal experience. :)
 
Sorry to hear it. Regarding the beer though, I wouldn't worry about fermenting with the hop and break debris in the fermentor. I speak from personal experience. :)

LOL, I hope you are right. I brewed an IPA last Saturday. I used the hop basket, so I should not have as much debris in my cone. But I'm sure there is some there and I did not dump any of it even after I let it settle for about 45min after the boil. I think I'll dump some of it today and start my secondary.

I always seem to do something dumb when I brew and last week was no different. I was finished with my mash and was about to roll the unit over to the electric winch. I had the "brilliant" idea to remove the temp probe just to get rid of some wires/cables when I was rolling it over. Being the genius I am, I unscrewed the tri-clamp and pulled out the probe. There is nothing like a blast of 150 sugar water on your leg. The only way to fix this was hold my hand over that hole and quickly get the fitting reattached. That will NEVER happen to me again.
 
LOL, I hope you are right. I brewed an IPA last Saturday. I used the hop basket, so I should not have as much debris in my cone. But I'm sure there is some there and I did not dump any of it even after I let it settle for about 45min after the boil. I think I'll dump some of it today and start my secondary.

I always seem to do something dumb when I brew and last week was no different. I was finished with my mash and was about to roll the unit over to the electric winch. I had the "brilliant" idea to remove the temp probe just to get rid of some wires/cables when I was rolling it over. Being the genius I am, I unscrewed the tri-clamp and pulled out the probe. There is nothing like a blast of 150 sugar water on your leg. The only way to fix this was hold my hand over that hole and quickly get the fitting reattached. That will NEVER happen to me again.

I wouldn't worry about the trub. This podcast discusses split batches, half with trub and half without, and it basically came back that it didn't make a difference.

http://traffic.libsyn.com/basicbrewing/bbr02-23-12trubres.mp3
 
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