3/8" barb > 6.35mm Duotight, SS adapter... A special Request for @Bobby_M

[Broken Crow]

Since I'm tagging @Bobby_M in this, Let me say to you Bobby; I love your products and if it weren't for living in Canada I'd do all my equipment shopping from your site. This is one of those thoughts that may after the fact be one of those "Why'd nobody do this before?!" (or it may not, let's see if others weigh in with interest..) Your True Bulkheads, and Hot Pods are some of those things that fill the niche for for many of us, I've always assumed they are your own design and you've either made them yourself or contracted your own design. I've also strongly suspected that the Big C camlock is just a type B that has had the threads lathed into a barb.. I'm wondering if you could do something like that to a SS splicer, mainley this one:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/splicebarb14x38.htmor something close, and machine down the small-side barb to 6.35mm and cut the ring into it like the duotight shanks or carb caps, so that we can just use a short piece of hose out our regulators to this adapeter for duotight fittings?

 

[day_trippr]

Such large diameters. What's up with that?

Cheers!

 

[Broken Crow]

Such large diameters. What's up with that?

Cheers!

Sorry..that could be my brain-damage (numbers and math are broken with me)... I was thinking of the average regulator barb.

 

[Bobby_M]

Since I'm tagging @Bobby_M in this, Let me say to you Bobby; I love your products and if it weren't for living in Canada I'd do all my equipment shopping from your site. This is one of those thoughts that may after the fact be one of those "Why'd nobody do this before?!" (or it may not, let's see if others weigh in with interest..) Your True Bulkheads, and Hot Pods are some of those things that fill the niche for for many of us, I've always assumed they are your own design and you've either made them yourself or contracted your own design. I've also strongly suspected that the Big C camlock is just a type B that has had the threads lathed into a barb.. I'm wondering if you could do something like that to a SS splicer, mainley this one:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/splicebarb14x38.htmor something close, and machine down the small-side barb to 6.35mm and cut the ring into it like the duotight shanks or carb caps, so that we can just use a short piece of hose out our regulators to this adapeter for duotight fittings?

The Big C camlock is in fact a Type B casting with a barb machined instead of threads but it was still my idea to make them at a reasonable price without having to pay for a new mold.

Currently the closest thing to what you're asking for is these two parts:

Although this would work on its own. You can clamp a hose to the stem directly. Though it's not barbed, tubing would definitely conform into the groove to keep it from slipping off.

 

[beren]

Maybe i'm getting it wrong, but what about something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6DDNQZL and come off the regulator/shutoff directly?

 

[Broken Crow]

Maybe i'm getting it wrong, but what about something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6DDNQZL and come off the regulator/shutoff directly?

Appealing though it looks, that's exactly what I'm trying to avoid. A number of folk on here, myself included, have tried removing the barb from our regulators only to find the fitting to be non-standard..In my own case, the cheap regulator I wanted to replace a barb for an MFL, turned out to have the barb specially machined for the check-valve.
What I was wondering was if it would be worth @Bobby_M 's while to machine down one side of a bunch of splicers from this:

to this:

So as to have a simple pig-tail off the regulator and not have to resort to trying to stretch EVAbarrier over a barb.
I posted it on here instead of emailing as I thought there might be responses expressing interest, or pointing out potential problems. I know I'd buy 2 or 3.

 

[beren]

I wouldn't be surprised if some were BSP which is close but not perfect to NPT, iirc.

 

[sibelman]

fwiw, I managed to get 5mm ID EVAbarrier tubing over the barb on my Tap-Rite regulator with only moderate difficulty. It would be pretty easy with their 6.3mm ID tubing, though that would require a 9.5mm Duotight fitting at the other end.

 

[day_trippr]

I wouldn't be surprised if some were BSP which is close but not perfect to NPT, iirc.

The "barb" that's screwed into the shut-off valve is not simply a threaded barb. The inside face captures part of the "ball" that makes the assembly a valve, and they are very specifically designed to fit that specific valve assembly and none other.

This is why retailers who sell ball valves like @Bobby_M keep telling folks they're not going to find a flare version for random barbed shut-off valves. But one can replace the entire valve - easily...

Cheers!

 

[beren]

Is very much depends. The two taprite regulators I have are normal threads and if you take off the Barb it does have the check valve in it but it’s a normal thread with an O-ring and seems to match the quarter inch pipe thread just fine

 

[day_trippr]

Show me a ball valve shut-off with interchangeable barbed vs flare valve output fittings and you'll be the first...

Cheers!

 

[Bobby_M]

Is very much depends. The two taprite regulators I have are normal threads and if you take off the Barb it does have the check valve in it but it’s a normal thread with an O-ring and seems to match the quarter inch pipe thread just fine

We're talking about the barb that is built in to a quarter turn shutoff valve. There are some regulators that do not have a shutoff valve on the output and go directly to a hose barb. Back up.... the female threads that are in the regulator body itself are standard 1/4" NPT threads.

 

[beren]

The Duotight seemed to screw in, it just has more threads. Didn’t get to mic it though.

 

[Bobby_M]

View attachment 822895

The Duotight seemed to screw in, it just has more threads. Didn’t get to mic it though.

It's extremely typical for people to think that barb in the middle is just a barb and you can change it out. Not a week goes by that someone orders a barb from me without asking about compatibility, finds it doesn't work and then calls me to tell me that my part is defective. If someone does order a 1/4" male NPT x hose barb AND they have other kegging parts on the order, I actually will email ahead to ask if this scheme is in their plans to avoid problems.

Look in the open end of the bottom of the shutoff valve. You can see the nylon valve seat. The perfectly machined barb piece has to seal via the oring while it's putting the exact correct pressure on the valve seat to keep it sealed.

Please just trust that I've been doing this brewing hardware thing for 13 years and have been a taprite dealer for almost all of them. That valve and barb is a mated set and can't be broken up. I'm not saying there isn't some fitting out there somewhere that just happens to work like stars aligning, but you'd win the bet 99.9 times out of a 100 to say it won't work.

 

[beren]

That’s...irritating to say the least. It is not overly long but all to save 1¢.