2-vessel eRims setup?

[drksky]

I've been reading for days now and trying to decide on a system that I can live with both cost-wise and simplicity-wise.

I looked at the Blichmann BrewEasy system with some interest as well as The Electric Brewery eHerms. Granted these are two very different systems in both cost and complexity.

I started thinking about doing a 2-vessel system similar with a recirculating RIMS mash, using full volume (no sparge. Basically BIAB without the bag, I suppose) and a BK with a boilcoil with everything controlled by a High Gravity EBC III-D.

Any feedback on the pros and cons of this?

Sure, I could do a single-vessel eBIAB, but have no desire to have to lift 60lbs of wet grain out of a single vessel to drain. So why no use a normal mash tun with the full boil volume. I could always upgrade to a three vessel system later. There's so many options that I'm like a deer in the headlights right now.

Currently, I'm using a 5-gallon igloo with a false bottom for a mash tun with no sort of temperature control. My basic goal is to be able to do bigger beers ( the cooler limits me to about 1.065 for a 5 gallon batch) and to have positive temperature control over the mash. Both for consistency and for the ability to do step mashes without doing infusions.

I suppose I could just get a RIMS rocket and a pump to start out with...

 

[drksky]

Oh yes, the other goal is to move my brewing into the basement and out of the weather.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

for the economics end of it a bigger cooler a pump and an rms tube will do the job, I have a 20 gallon single vessel myself with an insert that you need a ratchet winch mounted to the ceiling to pull out the grain out and today works flawlessly but took years to perfect the process doing trial and error

http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/169-newrims

using 2 vessels one for mashing the other for water and for boiling really would make it easier but mines portable and slides into a perfect space in the garage out of the way for storage

I think the budget and space are really the starting points and electric or flame? in most houses a 30 amp breaker will only run one element at a time so having to switch back and fourth between two pots is slow, trust me Ive done it. so for 2 electric pots you need a 50 or 60 amp breaker dedicated for your rig and a good control panel with pids

 

[drksky]

for the economics end of it a bigger cooler a pump and an rms tube will do the job, I have a 20 gallon single vessel myself with an insert that you need a ratchet winch mounted to the ceiling to pull out the grain out and today works flawlessly but took years to perfect the process doing trial and error

http://brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/169-newrims

using 2 vessels one for mashing the other for water and for boiling really would make it easier but mines portable and slides into a perfect space in the garage out of the way for storage

I think the budget and space are really the starting points and electric or flame? in most houses a 30 amp breaker will only run one element at a time so having to switch back and fourth between two pots is slow, trust me Ive done it. so for 2 electric pots you need a 50 or 60 amp breaker dedicated for your rig and a good control panel with pids

Well, there would be no need for switching back and forth between say a RIMS rocket and the BK. You drain the tun into the BK, turn off the rims and turn on the BK.

As far as installing a new breaker, that should be no problem, although I'm currently on only 100 amp service, but that's going to change in the future when I finish moving everything to a new panel and have my provider run a new service line for 200 amp.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

the only issue for me was heating up sparge water while recirculating mash. trying to save an hour off time. thats another thing Ive been working on is shaving off every minute I can to shorten the brew day

 

[drksky]

the only issue for me was heating up sparge water while recirculating mash. trying to save an hour off time. thats another thing Ive been working on is shaving off every minute I can to shorten the brew day

Hmmm...maybe I wasn't clear. I was planning on this being a no sparge system. All water added at the beginning of the mash, like BIAV without the bag.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

you can do a rinse with cold while its pumping into the biol kettle, works good

 

[mdwilson]

A 2-vessel e-rims system is what I built:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f235/revised-2-vessel-system-488123/

The first batch with this system came out great. The system started out as an e-BIAB system and can easily be converted back, or converted to 3-vessel. This came in handy when one of my silver soldered joints failed during the mash of my second batch. I quickly poured everything into a BIAB bag in the boil kettle and continued on.

I have since gone to lock nut and a threaded connection to hold the stand-pipe into the kettle. Knock on wood, I shouldn't have any more failures.

I found that temperature control is much more rapid and precise with the 2-vessel RIMS vs recirculating BIAB. And the fact that I can automate mash-in and mash-out and not have to lift a heavy bag is nice too.

 

[Brew52]

Hmmm...maybe I wasn't clear. I was planning on this being a no sparge system. All water added at the beginning of the mash, like BIAV without the bag.

This is a no sparge system that I designed originally to be used as BIAB only without the bag, however I discovered that I will still need to use a straining bag each time. Also the in-line strainers below each keggle are not needed. Good luck with your system.

 

[drksky]

This is a no sparge system that I designed originally to be used as BIAB only without the bag, however I discovered that I will still need to use a straining bag each time. Also the in-line strainers below each keggle are not needed. Good luck with your system.

Why do you still need to use the bag? Does a false bottom not work?

 

[Brew52]

Why do you still need to use the bag? Does a false bottom not work?

I have a great false bottom from Sabco, but I overlooked a critical factor pertaining to BIAB (no sparge) vs. All Grain Traditional sparge. You have to remember that with BIAB the mash is extremely thin so a standard false bottom will not keep the crushed grain from passing through the holes (I learned this) the hard way. Take a look at my thread on page 2 of electric brewing titled: Purpose Built - No Sparge Brewery and you can read all about my first brew day. I still plan to do No-Sparge Brews on my system but I will always use a nylon strain bag each time. I suppose if you were able to get a heavy duty false bottom with stainless mesh and tight fitting around the edges, you may be able to eliminate the straining bag. With my design There is no need to lift the bag out of the kettle right away because the wort has been pumped over to the boil kettle. I plan to just leave the bag in and drain during the boil and just add whatever drains right into the boil before it ends (maybe 30 minutes) or so into the boil.

 

[drksky]

I have a great false bottom from Sabco, but I overlooked a critical factor pertaining to BIAB (no sparge) vs. All Grain Traditional sparge. You have to remember that with BIAB the mash is extremely thin so a standard false bottom will not keep the crushed grain from passing through the holes (I learned this) the hard way. Take a look at my thread on page 2 of electric brewing titled: Purpose Built - No Sparge Brewery and you can read all about my first brew day. I still plan to do No-Sparge Brews on my system but I will always use a nylon strain bag each time. I suppose if you were able to get a heavy duty false bottom with stainless mesh and tight fitting around the edges, you may be able to eliminate the straining bag. With my design There is no need to lift the bag out of the kettle right away because the wort has been pumped over to the boil kettle. I plan to just leave the bag in and drain during the boil and just add whatever drains right into the boil before it ends (maybe 30 minutes) or so into the boil.

So what's the difference between what you are doing and a system like the Blichmann Breweasy which uses a false bottom and full volume "Kettle rims"? Are you saying that system isn't going to work?

 

[Brew52]

So what's the difference between what you are doing and a system like the Blichmann Breweasy which uses a false bottom and full volume "Kettle rims"? Are you saying that system isn't going to work?

You make a valid point. I just read the owner's manual for the Blichmann Breweasy and it seems they do not require a strain bag. Perhaps the first time I brewed on my system my grain crush was too fine and that may be why my strainers clogged up. I still like the idea of using a bag for the simplicity of keeping all the grain in-tact so that clean up will be a snap! And also if I use a bag there is zero chance of getting any solids in the pump heads or on the RIMS element. It's all personal choice and I don't feel that a bag vs no bag is right or wrong so long as the end result is just a real good beer.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

I do the same thing, I only use the bag when I want an easy clean up day my mash tun is a pain to clean after a 6 hour brew day