2 newbie questions

[Rednas]

So I'm brewing with extract, a tripel. I have 2 questions for the bottling stage:

1. Will the sugar that I add before bottling have a big impact on the taste? If I'd use cane sugar for instance, will that matter? Good idea/bad idea?
2. When the beer's in the closed bottle and you have to wait for some more weeks before opening it, is it best to store them while standing up or lying down?

Thanks!

 

[flars]

1. None at all.
2. Always standing up to reduce surface exposed to air in head space.

 

[balrog]

1) Corn or table sugar will be converted by yeast in suspension to CO2 and alcohol (but not much) and the "sweetness" will therefore go away. If you use brown sugar, then there will be a TOUCH of molasses flavor possibly evident depending on your sensitivity to taste.

2) Upright, as there will be sediment from this bottle fermentation to CO2 of the priming sugar; the yeast will convert the sugars and drop out just as they did in the fermentation vessel. Keeping it upright will make the yeast collect at the bottom, making pouring all but the last wee bit out of the bottle as sediment free as possible.

 

[Rednas]

Alright...thanks!
So if I want the sugar to have any effect on the taste, I'd have to experiment with sugar types in the earlier stage, I guess. Will cane sugar taste different than regular (beet based) sugar? I guess brown sugar will have a bigger impact?

 

[campbellmike]

Just research the volume of sugar needed for your beer. You don't want to create bottle bombs or under carb.

Here's a link to a calculator with options for many types.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

 

[balrog]

Anything other than pure sucrose can have flavor impact. From my readings, a tiny bit of molasses can go a long way, with several admonitions to use a max of 4oz in 5 gallons. When certain English styles call for "invert sugar" it is usually made with cane, raw, Turbinado or Demera (sp?) sugar in order for there to *BE* some of that molasses flavor carried over.

But yes, experimentation is the key. Plain table sugar in the boil is supposed to simply dry out the beer (lower final SG) without flavor addition, but some say too much table sugar will create "cidery" taste.

 

[rekoob]

1. none.
2. try to keep them upright at all times and careful when pouring so you don't disturb the cake at the bottom of the bottle.

Nostrovia!

 

[Rednas]

Thanks again.

Just research the volume of sugar needed for your beer. You don't want to create bottle bombs or under carb.

Here's a link to a calculator with options for many types.

http://www.northernbrewer.com/priming-sugar-calculator/

That's useful. Just to be sure: that's the amount I'd add to the total amount of beer? I filled in the values for my 2.4 gallon Tripel and the result was 90.43 grams of corn sugar. That's the amount I'd add to the total?
And in general: you add the total amount of sugar tot the bucket and then bottle it? Cause I've also read about adding it in the bottle...

Also: in the table cane sugar is not explicitly mentioned, is there an equivalent in the table I can use?

 

[Yooper]

Thanks again.



That's useful. Just to be sure: that's the amount I'd add to the total amount of beer? I filled in the values for my 2.4 gallon Tripel and the result was 90.43 grams of corn sugar. That's the amount I'd add to the total?
And in general: you add the total amount of sugar tot the bucket and then bottle it? Cause I've also read about adding it in the bottle...

Also: in the table cane sugar is not explicitly mentioned, is there an equivalent in the table I can use?

I HATE those priming calculators! Most people who are accustomed to bottled beer aren't used to beers "by style". Some of those tables would have you carb a stout at 1.5 volumes (totally flat) and some weizens at 4 volumes of c02- bottle bombs.

I've found that .75-1 ounce of priming sugar (corn sugar) per finished gallon of beer is always right. I'd use 1 ounce per gallon for a triple.

Using different priming sugars won't make much difference as the amount is so minute as to not let the flavor come through. For example, some would consider priming with maple syrup (and you could do that if you want). But once the sugar is fermented out, that tiny bit of maple syrup for the volume of the beer wouldn't have any flavor impact at all. So most people still use corn sugar or table sugar.

Fermentation also changes the flavor of things. I personally can't stand the taste of brown sugar once it's fermented out. The reason brown sugar tastes good is that it is sweet. Once the sugar ferments, all that's left is a not-sweet molasses flavor that is odd at best. It wouldn't matter in a tiny amount like priming sugar, but in a recipe where a pound of it is used would.

 

[Rednas]

I HATE those priming calculators! Most people who are accustomed to bottled beer aren't used to beers "by style". Some of those tables would have you carb a stout at 1.5 volumes (totally flat) and some weizens at 4 volumes of c02- bottle bombs.

I've found that .75-1 ounce of priming sugar (corn sugar) per finished gallon of beer is always right. I'd use 1 ounce per gallon for a triple.

Using different priming sugars won't make much difference as the amount is so minute as to not let the flavor come through. For example, some would consider priming with maple syrup (and you could do that if you want). But once the sugar is fermented out, that tiny bit of maple syrup for the volume of the beer wouldn't have any flavor impact at all. So most people still use corn sugar or table sugar.

Fermentation also changes the flavor of things. I personally can't stand the taste of brown sugar once it's fermented out. The reason brown sugar tastes good is that it is sweet. Once the sugar ferments, all that's left is a not-sweet molasses flavor that is odd at best. It wouldn't matter in a tiny amount like priming sugar, but in a recipe where a pound of it is used would.

Alright. So I'd boil an ounce of sugar per gallon with a little bit of water (to avoid watering down the beer too much), add that to the bucket and then bottle the beer right away?

 

[phug]

Just add boiled water to the sugar to dissolve. No need to boil the sugar solution unless you want to, but yeah that's the long and short of it


Sent from my iPhone using Home Brew

 

[ZebulonBrewer]

Boil the sugar. Ensures that it's sterile. What I do is use the northernbrewer calculator (though the other guy is generally correct with his 0.75-1.0 oz per gallon) and boil that volume in two cups 16 oz of water. Pour it into the bottom of my billing bucket and rack on top of it. When it is done I take a sanitized paddle and gently stir to thoroughly mix the sugar solution, being careful not to agitate the beer because oxygen is the enemy.

I have heard people letting the sugar sit for 20-30 minutes in the beer to diffuse naturally, but every time I've done it I end up with bottles of wildly varying carbonation

 

[Kee]

Boil the sugar. Ensures that it's sterile. What I do is use the northernbrewer calculator (though the other guy is generally correct with his 0.75-1.0 oz per gallon) and boil that volume in two cups 16 oz of water. Pour it into the bottom of my billing bucket and rack on top of it. When it is done I take a sanitized paddle and gently stir to thoroughly mix the sugar solution, being careful not to agitate the beer because oxygen is the enemy.

I have heard people letting the sugar sit for 20-30 minutes in the beer to diffuse naturally, but every time I've done it I end up with bottles of wildly varying carbonation

The calculators are fine as long as you take Yooper's advice and don't pay too much attention to the style carbonation suggestions (and know that temperature does not mean current temperature of the beer but maximum temperature reached during fermentation.

And I am sure she will get a kick out of being referred to as the other "guy".

 

[ZebulonBrewer]

Sorry, I'm on mobile and was looking at the body of replies only. I meant no disrespect (or mislabeling of gender).

 

[balrog]

I HATE those priming calculators! Most people who are accustomed to bottled beer aren't used to beers "by style". Some of those tables would have you carb a stout at 1.5 volumes (totally flat) and some weizens at 4 volumes of c02- bottle bombs.

I've found that .75-1 ounce of priming sugar (corn sugar) per finished gallon of beer is always right. I'd use 1 ounce per gallon for a triple.

Using different priming sugars won't make much difference as the amount is so minute as to not let the flavor come through. For example, some would consider priming with maple syrup (and you could do that if you want). But once the sugar is fermented out, that tiny bit of maple syrup for the volume of the beer wouldn't have any flavor impact at all. So most people still use corn sugar or table sugar.

Fermentation also changes the flavor of things. I personally can't stand the taste of brown sugar once it's fermented out. The reason brown sugar tastes good is that it is sweet. Once the sugar ferments, all that's left is a not-sweet molasses flavor that is odd at best. It wouldn't matter in a tiny amount like priming sugar, but in a recipe where a pound of it is used would.

What Yooper says. She knows all. And I mean that in every possible respectful way.

But Rednas, you really should take some time and read through something like howtobrew.com, and in specific his Chapter11 which covers priming. There you will get great details of answers to many questions. Except, perhaps, the meaning of Life. Which I've heard is 42.

 

[Rednas]

What Yooper says. She knows all. And I mean that in every possible respectful way.

But Rednas, you really should take some time and read through something like howtobrew.com, and in specific his Chapter11 which covers priming. There you will get great details of answers to many questions. Except, perhaps, the meaning of Life. Which I've heard is 42.

The meaning of life I knew, it's the rest that I need help with
Howtobrew.com is pretty useful, so thanks.

 

[Rednas]

So...after being in the bottle at room temperature for about 2 weeks, there seems to be enough carbonation (opened one bottle to test). Now they'll go into the fridge for 6-8 weeks according to the instructions of the extract. What happens during this period, actually?

The smell from the beer was not necessarily pleasant. Quite strong / pungent, a bit sour.
Also there's a syrupy layer of whatever in the bottom. That's normal too?

Thanks.

 

[Kee]

So...after being in the bottle at room temperature for about 2 weeks, there seems to be enough carbonation (opened one bottle to test). Now they'll go into the fridge for 6-8 weeks according to the instructions of the extract. What happens during this period, actually?

The smell from the beer was not necessarily pleasant. Quite strong / pungent, a bit sour.
Also there's a syrupy layer of whatever in the bottom. That's normal too?

Thanks.

Two weeks is not much time to allow for carbonation. And I am not sure why the instructions insist on refrigerating all of the beer after two week. The 6-8 weeks will clarify the beer but seems a little excessive.

The layer at the bottom sounds like the yeast settling, nothing to be alarmed about. I don't know what to say about the "nose". How does the beer taste? (Again, two weeks is a little early for most beers).

 

[flars]

Leave all the beer at room temperature to condition. Each week chill one for two days. When it tastes great, all of the bottles can be chilled, if you plan on drinking them quickly. It will not be detrimental to the beer to keep the bottles at room temperature until you are ready.

 

[Rednas]

I figured the 2 week period was purely for carbonation. And the carbonation is there.
What's the risk with chilling it too soon, apart from the carbonation?

I assume the taste will still change while it's being chilled for 6-8 weeks?

 

[flars]

Bottle conditioning is like yeast fermenting a wort, it works best at certain temperatures. Cellar temperatures will also work for bottle conditioning, given enough time.

 

[m00ps]

I figured the 2 week period was purely for carbonation. And the carbonation is there.
What's the risk with chilling it too soon, apart from the carbonation?

I assume the taste will still change while it's being chilled for 6-8 weeks?

It may just take longer for any "green beer" flavors to dissipate. In my experience, the taste doesnt change too much past the 2 week mark usually. Hops will slowly fade out, dark malty beers will get smoother, in general the flavors just kinda mesh together. Belgians on the other hand, can taste completely different. Ive tried a 2009 and 2013 Maudite from Unibroue side by side and they tasted entirely different. I couldnt even say I preferred one over the other