15 Gallon 240V - 2 Pump E-HERMS Build - Here goes nothing...

[GoCobbers95]

Hi Folks,

I am jumping in head first and designing/building my first Electric Brew Rig. The plan is to make a 15 Gallon 240V - 2 Pump E-Herms system. This post will be utilized to aid in designing as well as get feedback along the way.

Considerations going into the design/build:

-I have invested a lot of money into my current 3 tier system and feel like I am brewing great on it. But with that, I am DONE investing more money into gadgetry and small upgrades, that are at this point only incrementally raising my product level. With my skill set (and I say that referencing MANY shortcomings) I feel like the best next step is a single tier HERMS system that provides a bit more control than I currently have.
-I own a pump, therminator, and a few other items that are pushing some of my decision making and design.
-I have a construction background but generally am incompetent in regards to Welding and Electrical work.
-In terms of budget, for me $3,000 is on the high end, $2,000 is about right, and $1500 would be a nice surprise

My initial component list:

Kettles
This is my first area of contention...
-I have priced out Spike Kettles which are identical to the ones on their "Spike Brewing System" with all recommended components (listed in the note section of bid) as well as tri-clamp upgrades and believe my total cost for a HLT, MLT, and BK to be $1794. Link to bid with detailed specs: https://goo.gl/xU9grk. My main thoughts on this was that I likely could save a significant amount of money by sourcing components such as HERMS coil, heating elements, pickup tubes, false bottoms, etc elsewhere saving myself significant money.

- I also priced out 15 gallon Stout Tanks, configured the same as the Spike Kettles that included stock tri-clamp fittings, but without heating elements and found the price for HLT, MLT, and BK to be $1481.
HLT- https://conical-fermenter.com/HL15TW-RHC16-LL-EL1-TI.html
MLT- https://conical-fermenter.com/15-Ga...-Recirculating-Fitting-and-Bottom-Outlet.html
BK- https://conical-fermenter.com/BK15TW-TI-LL-EL1.html

My Kettle Questions

- Is there another brand I should be looking at with similar valve placement and offerings? Should I consider drilling and installing my own?
-If not the $75 5500Watt element from Spike Brewing, what other recommendations would you offer?
-If not the HERMS coil from either kettle company, what would you recommend and how easy is it to accurately drill and set up re circulation valves for the system?
-Am I missing any glaring options to consider?

PID/Controller/Panel Etc...

Hosehead Raspberry Pi3 Controller $495 https://goo.gl/uuJfSH
-Building a control panel looks amazing, but definitely out of my comfort zone!
-Hosehead looks to do everything I need it to at a fairly affordable price.
-Am I missing anything major here?

Misc.
Brew Table- $100 https://goo.gl/Wez7d7
Chugger Pump - I own one already. $150
Misc fittings, brackets, etc... $200

TOTAL Cost ranges from $2500 - $3000


It all seems pretty simple... Which makes me feel like I'm forgetting something! I appreciate any feedback you can offer. Let me know if I can clarify my ramblings!

Blessings!

 

[GoCobbers95]

Gosh... Rereading after I posted... I sure ramble a lot!

 

[mtbr_brewer]

I'm sure you'll get a lot of feedback regarding this topic, but I thought I would throw in my two cents! I'm actually just rounding out my first year on my e-HERMS setup, and I really love it. I brewed a batch yesterday, and for the 6 or 7th time in a row hit all my values on the nose. It offers a ton of consistency, the perfect amount of automation, and usually a very relaxing brew day.

Thoughts:

- Kettles: I have keggles and that is definitely a budget option to consider. I just checked my spreadsheet and I have $600 in my three vessels. That's including all the NPT hardware, HERMS coil, heating elements, false bottom, etc. However, I took my time and sourced some great local deals (mash tun was a steal) as well as Black Friday specials (fittings were 40% off). I went the extra mile and polished mine since the ascetics are important to me. As a keggle user I would actually rather have something else... Cleaning is more complicated with the rounded top (can't dump things out easily), and working to drill and seal holes also isn't the most fun (sides aren't perfectly straight). That being said, I did use all weldless fittings and had no leaks after some trial and error! If I could do it over sure I'd love to have them welded in, but it's not a huge concern. I would however say that a tri-clover fitting on the heating element is a must (looking to add one soon). It's a real pain to clean the element in place in the boil kettle. The HLT isn't a huge concern, I just drain the water and use a wet vac to clean up the remaining water.

- Controller: I use a Hosehead to control my system, and I really like it. I've had a couple glitches with it but those have been user error. I'm running the older 3BC, but would love to have the 5BC to make 10 gallon brew days easier. The idea there is to use the boil kettle to heat the mash water, while you heat the HLT with the spare water and water to maintain mash temps. Right now I transfer the 9+ mash gallons into the mash tun, emptying most of my HLT, refill that and let it come back to temps, check the mash tun temps, and mash in. Overall, I would recommend the hosehead, especially if getting up and running soon is a desire. I'd love to have a Kal style panel, but the build time and worry over wiring were off putting. It's definitely do able, but just a little more time to the process.

-Other comments: You'll definitely want a larger brewing table. I run a 5' (60" table) with my keggles because I installed a sink in my brewing room and the table is TIGHT with three vessels. If you have the space spring for a 6' table, they aren't priced much more than the 4' you have listed. Also, a SINK is a hugggeee benefit if you have a dedicated brewing space. That seriously cut my cleaning time/brew day time by an hour and a half. Other than that, I would consider the Riptide pump. Not because I have one, but just because I take my chugger pump apart all the time... Tri clamps would be very nice.

Enjoy the process of putting everything together! I know I really loved that part of starting with 3-vessel.

 

[sillbeer]

I bought all used Blichmann kettles from the classifieds here and they should last me forever. I just waited for deals and bought them all within about a 3 month timeframe. I went with a 30 gallon BK, and 20 gallon HLT and MT.

I bought my coil for my HLT and heating element mounting kits from this website.

https://store.brewpi.com/

The mounting on the coil is awesome compared to other coils that use compression fittings. It was really easy to drill out my kettle and install the coil along with all the other fittings. I used a step bit on every hole and did not have a single problem. You need to go slow because you can easily make a mistake with the step bit.

I used a High Gravity controller for a couple years and it worked well. I recently sold it and bought the DIY Brew Buddy kit from Auberins.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64_66&products_id=717

For another $500 they will build the panel for you.

Pumps, I use two Blichmann pumps. They are really quiet and flow well. My overall goal was to brew inside my basement and be able to listen to music or hold a normal conversation without elevated noise.

I bought my elements and element cables from www.theelectricbrewery.com. They provide some nice stuff and give very detailed information on building your own setup. Before you buy fittings and hose, take a look at the recommendations from Kal on the electric brewery. I already had 3/8" hose and a small assortment of 3/8" fittings so I stayed with that size and have no issues. Just something to look into.

Good luck.

-D.

 

[TexasWine]

Couple of comments on your kettle choices. First, tri-clamp is unnecessary for the hot side. As a matter of fact, I think they're a downright detriment because they're cumbersome to handle if all you want to do is swap a hose from one place to the other. The point of having tri-clamp fittings on the cold side is to avoid threaded connections for sanitary reasons.

Second, I suggest looking at Bayou Classic and Concord kettles, buying a decent set of punches and making your own holes in your kettles. I was very timid to do this myself the first time, but it was the right decision. There are several reasons. The obvious is the money savings. Another is you can lay out your brewing space, kettles in place, THEN figure out exactly where you want your ports to be. And if you don't like the port layout after installing them, plug a port and make another one. The way you're headed now, it will simply be your best guess that what you get will work.

Another good reason to do your own is to put a glorious soldered in bottom drain in all your vessels. When it comes time to clean, there's nothing better.

Lastly, there's no need for a tri-clad bottom with a system that doesn't apply heat to the kettle bottom.

My two cents. Hope it helps.

 

[ThreeDogsNE]

If you are looking at punching your own holes in kettles and mounting your own fittings, these could serve you well. I've been using these for about 10 years now, and they have held up well. However, they won't do bottom drainage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X1LYFQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[GoCobbers95]

I'm sure you'll get a lot of feedback regarding this topic, but I thought I would throw in my two cents! I'm actually just rounding out my first year on my e-HERMS setup, and I really love it. I brewed a batch yesterday, and for the 6 or 7th time in a row hit all my values on the nose. It offers a ton of consistency, the perfect amount of automation, and usually a very relaxing brew day.

Thoughts:

- Kettles: I have keggles and that is definitely a budget option to consider. I just checked my spreadsheet and I have $600 in my three vessels. That's including all the NPT hardware, HERMS coil, heating elements, false bottom, etc. However, I took my time and sourced some great local deals (mash tun was a steal) as well as Black Friday specials (fittings were 40% off). I went the extra mile and polished mine since the ascetics are important to me. As a keggle user I would actually rather have something else... Cleaning is more complicated with the rounded top (can't dump things out easily), and working to drill and seal holes also isn't the most fun (sides aren't perfectly straight). That being said, I did use all weldless fittings and had no leaks after some trial and error! If I could do it over sure I'd love to have them welded in, but it's not a huge concern. I would however say that a tri-clover fitting on the heating element is a must (looking to add one soon). It's a real pain to clean the element in place in the boil kettle. The HLT isn't a huge concern, I just drain the water and use a wet vac to clean up the remaining water.

- Controller: I use a Hosehead to control my system, and I really like it. I've had a couple glitches with it but those have been user error. I'm running the older 3BC, but would love to have the 5BC to make 10 gallon brew days easier. The idea there is to use the boil kettle to heat the mash water, while you heat the HLT with the spare water and water to maintain mash temps. Right now I transfer the 9+ mash gallons into the mash tun, emptying most of my HLT, refill that and let it come back to temps, check the mash tun temps, and mash in. Overall, I would recommend the hosehead, especially if getting up and running soon is a desire. I'd love to have a Kal style panel, but the build time and worry over wiring were off putting. It's definitely do able, but just a little more time to the process.

-Other comments: You'll definitely want a larger brewing table. I run a 5' (60" table) with my keggles because I installed a sink in my brewing room and the table is TIGHT with three vessels. If you have the space spring for a 6' table, they aren't priced much more than the 4' you have listed. Also, a SINK is a hugggeee benefit if you have a dedicated brewing space. That seriously cut my cleaning time/brew day time by an hour and a half. Other than that, I would consider the Riptide pump. Not because I have one, but just because I take my chugger pump apart all the time... Tri clamps would be very nice.

Enjoy the process of putting everything together! I know I really loved that part of starting with 3-vessel.

Thank you for the insight!

-Your keggles look amazing! Hearing you and others talking about installing your own valves makes me interested in exploring that route. Even if it is on a kettle.

-Glad you like the hosehead. I think my thought process is similar to yours. I’ll still mull around other options but feel pretty good about the hosehead.

-Point we’ll taken on the brew table. I need to do some measuring, especially when I figure out what kettles I am using. I have read that the handle placement on the side can force you to being wider than needed also. 60in minimum seems like the way to go.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[GoCobbers95]

I bought all used Blichmann kettles from the classifieds here and they should last me forever. I just waited for deals and bought them all within about a 3 month timeframe. I went with a 30 gallon BK, and 20 gallon HLT and MT.

I bought my coil for my HLT and heating element mounting kits from this website.

https://store.brewpi.com/

The mounting on the coil is awesome compared to other coils that use compression fittings. It was really easy to drill out my kettle and install the coil along with all the other fittings. I used a step bit on every hole and did not have a single problem. You need to go slow because you can easily make a mistake with the step bit.

I used a High Gravity controller for a couple years and it worked well. I recently sold it and bought the DIY Brew Buddy kit from Auberins.

https://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=64_66&products_id=717

For another $500 they will build the panel for you.

Pumps, I use two Blichmann pumps. They are really quiet and flow well. My overall goal was to brew inside my basement and be able to listen to music or hold a normal conversation without elevated noise.

I bought my elements and element cables from www.theelectricbrewery.com. They provide some nice stuff and give very detailed information on building your own setup. Before you buy fittings and hose, take a look at the recommendations from Kal on the electric brewery. I already had 3/8" hose and a small assortment of 3/8" fittings so I stayed with that size and have no issues. Just something to look into.

Good luck.

-D.

Thank you for the resources and helping to give me confidence that I can setup my own kettles. I’m going to buy a step bit and practice install on an old kettle I have. I own one chugged pump, but am open to trying a new one and will give blichman a look.

Thanks again!

 

[GoCobbers95]

Couple of comments on your kettle choices. First, tri-clamp is unnecessary for the hot side. As a matter of fact, I think they're a downright detriment because they're cumbersome to handle if all you want to do is swap a hose from one place to the other. The point of having tri-clamp fittings on the cold side is to avoid threaded connections for sanitary reasons.

Second, I suggest looking at Bayou Classic and Concord kettles, buying a decent set of punches and making your own holes in your kettles. I was very timid to do this myself the first time, but it was the right decision. There are several reasons. The obvious is the money savings. Another is you can lay out your brewing space, kettles in place, THEN figure out exactly where you want your ports to be. And if you don't like the port layout after installing them, plug a port and make another one. The way you're headed now, it will simply be your best guess that what you get will work.

Another good reason to do your own is to put a glorious soldered in bottom drain in all your vessels. When it comes time to clean, there's nothing better.

Lastly, there's no need for a tri-clad bottom with a system that doesn't apply heat to the kettle bottom.

My two cents. Hope it helps.

Thanks for the great info!

-In terms of the Tri Clamps, I think that is good perspective.

-The cost saving potential of setting up my kettles is too big to pass up. I’m sold on learning and attempting it. Could you elaborate on what you mean by “punching”. I assume it to be different than drilling... I have done a few searches and found good info but I’m curious if there is a “go to” thread that folks reference when exposing kettle modifications? I’ll keep searching but if you, or any others know of a specific walk through that is particularly good, I’d love to see it.

-I’m going to do a “soldered bottom drain port” search as soon as I finish this reply. I’m intrigued.

-Tri-clad not needed. Makes sense. Concord, bayou classic, and update international are non homebrew specific pot companies that I have seen recommended now. I’ll search out some specifics on each. Any others? Is there a specific height to width people recommend?

Thank you again!

 

[GoCobbers95]

If you are looking at punching your own holes in kettles and mounting your own fittings, these could serve you well. I've been using these for about 10 years now, and they have held up well. However, they won't do bottom drainage. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X1LYFQ/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Thank you for the reply! At first glance they seem wider than others. I haven’t backed that assumption up yet with comparisons... Nor do I know if it matters in terms of brewing, boil off, or specifically for electric brewing... I like the price!

I’m going to price out the valve layout and overall build tomorrow. I don’t have a LHBS nearby, anyone have an online favorite for kettle fittings?

Thanks again!

 

[sowoah]

I built a "Kal Clone" E-Herms for about 2000, which I think is as cheap as you can do it.

I think Kettles are definitely a place you can save if you're willing to drill the holes. I have used Bayou Classic and concord. They are both fine. It's just a stainless steel pot, you know? If you want a super shiny kettle with the holes all in very precise spots and a logo on it, that's up to you. I use a $15 step bit from amazon, Have gotten a lot of holes out of it.

The one thing I would not try to do is make your own stainless herms coil. Man, that was a huge pain in the ass and it looks like ****. I would buy a coil at least, maybe an HLT, if I could do it all again.

One last opinion that is probably unconventional here - I Have heating elements mounted in my original kettles, but now I also have a HotRod heat stick (from Brew Hardware). If I could do it all over again. I'd just have the 1 hotrod. It's awesome for a few reasons:

Only need 1 element.
Can move it from kettle to kettle. (if you have elements in the kettles too, and they are on seperate branches, you can heat water faster, pipeline batches, etc)
Whirlpool - You can't get a good whirlpool with an element at the bottom of your pot. My new BK has no element in it, so I can just take the heat stick out and get a great whirlpool and trub cone when I want.
CLEANING. Moving a kettle with a power cord attached is a pain. cleaning the pot with the cord is a pain. cleaning the element in the pot is a pain. The heat stick makes it way better

 

[TexasWine]

Thanks for the great info!

-In terms of the Tri Clamps, I think that is good perspective.

-The cost saving potential of setting up my kettles is too big to pass up. I’m sold on learning and attempting it. Could you elaborate on what you mean by “punching”. I assume it to be different than drilling... I have done a few searches and found good info but I’m curious if there is a “go to” thread that folks reference when exposing kettle modifications? I’ll keep searching but if you, or any others know of a specific walk through that is particularly good, I’d love to see it.

-I’m going to do a “soldered bottom drain port” search as soon as I finish this reply. I’m intrigued.

-Tri-clad not needed. Makes sense. Concord, bayou classic, and update international are non homebrew specific pot companies that I have seen recommended now. I’ll search out some specifics on each. Any others? Is there a specific height to width people recommend?

Thank you again!

Thanks for the great info!

-In terms of the Tri Clamps, I think that is good perspective.

-The cost saving potential of setting up my kettles is too big to pass up. I’m sold on learning and attempting it. Could you elaborate on what you mean by “punching”. I assume it to be different than drilling... I have done a few searches and found good info but I’m curious if there is a “go to” thread that folks reference when exposing kettle modifications? I’ll keep searching but if you, or any others know of a specific walk through that is particularly good, I’d love to see it.

-I’m going to do a “soldered bottom drain port” search as soon as I finish this reply. I’m intrigued.

-Tri-clad not needed. Makes sense. Concord, bayou classic, and update international are non homebrew specific pot companies that I have seen recommended now. I’ll search out some specifics on each. Any others? Is there a specific height to width people recommend?

Thank you again!

-Punching Holes: what I'm referring to is using a knockout punch a opposed to a drill bit. Knockout punches can be more expensive, but they are by far the most enjoyable and easiest tool for the job of putting precise holes in your kettles. The highest quality brand out there is Greenlee, but you can find other brands that would do the job just fine because you won't be using them on a daily basis. FWIW, I have a step bit as well and much prefer the punches.

-Soldering: I believe this is the thread that details out the process. It's essentially a poor man's welding, and it's fantastic.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/155782/

Bobby at Brewhardware.com sells specialized tools and fittings for the job. I'm about to install a bottom drain on both my kettles.

-MT and BK have different optimal dimensions. For the MT there are grain bed loading considerations that could make shorter/fatter optimal, but this is rarely an issue on our scale. Because homebrewers typically have problems controlling boil off, taller/skinnier can make more sense. Personally, I like my kettles to all look similar, and I prefer taller/skinnier to minimize the surface area to volume ratio.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Thank you for the reply! At first glance they seem wider than others. I haven’t backed that assumption up yet with comparisons... Nor do I know if it matters in terms of brewing, boil off, or specifically for electric brewing... I like the price!

I’m going to price out the valve layout and overall build tomorrow. I don’t have a LHBS nearby, anyone have an online favorite for kettle fittings?

Thanks again!

Boy, I'd go with a BrewBuilt before the one linked. It's less expensive and already has two welded ports for drain and temp (or whatever you want to use it for). I have a 10 gallong and it's been awesome.

 

[TexasWine]

Whirlpool - You can't get a good whirlpool with an element at the bottom of your pot. My new BK has no element in it, so I can just take the heat stick out and get a great whirlpool and trub cone when I want.
CLEANING. Moving a kettle with a power cord attached is a pain. cleaning the pot with the cord is a pain. cleaning the element in the pot is a pain. The heat stick makes it way better

Two things. It is definitely possible to get a good whirlpool and trub cone with an element in your kettle. I do it every brew day.

And, why would you move your kettle to clean it? If you want access to the element to clean it, install a tri-clamp fitting in the kettle. Don't get me wrong, I own two hot rods and love them. But I much prefer elements in the kettle as they allow me to do things like use a lauter cap, keep my vented lid on while boiling, and even use a barometric condenser if I choose to.

 

[GoCobbers95]

I built a "Kal Clone" E-Herms for about 2000, which I think is as cheap as you can do it.

I think Kettles are definitely a place you can save if you're willing to drill the holes. I have used Bayou Classic and concord. They are both fine. It's just a stainless steel pot, you know? If you want a super shiny kettle with the holes all in very precise spots and a logo on it, that's up to you. I use a $15 step bit from amazon, Have gotten a lot of holes out of it.

The one thing I would not try to do is make your own stainless herms coil. Man, that was a huge pain in the ass and it looks like poopy. I would buy a coil at least, maybe an HLT, if I could do it all again.

One last opinion that is probably unconventional here - I Have heating elements mounted in my original kettles, but now I also have a HotRod heat stick (from Brew Hardware). If I could do it all over again. I'd just have the 1 hotrod. It's awesome for a few reasons:

Only need 1 element.
Can move it from kettle to kettle. (if you have elements in the kettles too, and they are on seperate branches, you can heat water faster, pipeline batches, etc)
Whirlpool - You can't get a good whirlpool with an element at the bottom of your pot. My new BK has no element in it, so I can just take the heat stick out and get a great whirlpool and trub cone when I want.
CLEANING. Moving a kettle with a power cord attached is a pain. cleaning the pot with the cord is a pain. cleaning the element in the pot is a pain. The heat stick makes it way better

You have confirmed my interest in AVOIDING making my own HERMS Coil. But I think I can find a better place to purchase one then as part of my original plan.

I had never heard of a hotrod. Interesting stuff. I THINK I still like the idea of a dedicated element for each pot. Especially at that price.

 

[GoCobbers95]

-Punching Holes: what I'm referring to is using a knockout punch a opposed to a drill bit. Knockout punches can be more expensive, but they are by far the most enjoyable and easiest tool for the job of putting precise holes in your kettles. The highest quality brand out there is Greenlee, but you can find other brands that would do the job just fine because you won't be using them on a daily basis. FWIW, I have a step bit as well and much prefer the punches.

-Soldering: I believe this is the thread that details out the process. It's essentially a poor man's welding, and it's fantastic.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/index.php?threads/155782/

Bobby at Brewhardware.com sells specialized tools and fittings for the job. I'm about to install a bottom drain on both my kettles.

-MT and BK have different optimal dimensions. For the MT there are grain bed loading considerations that could make shorter/fatter optimal, but this is rarely an issue on our scale. Because homebrewers typically have problems controlling boil off, taller/skinnier can make more sense. Personally, I like my kettles to all look similar, and I prefer taller/skinnier to minimize the surface area to volume ratio.

Soldering thread is unreal. Working my way through it right now. Confidence is building on my ability to DIY my pots. I'm especially interested in the Concord pots being the price is soooo good!

I'm going to buy the tools and practice on a few pots I own already.

Boy, I'd go with a BrewBuilt before the one linked. It's less expensive and already has two welded ports for drain and temp (or whatever you want to use it for). I have a 10 gallong and it's been awesome.

Took a look at the brewbuilt pots. I didn't see a 15 gallon option, but that being said I could have missed them. I really like the price of the Concord kettles I have seen.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

Soldering thread is unreal. Working my way through it right now. Confidence is building on my ability to DIY my pots. I'm especially interested in the Concord pots being the price is soooo good!

I'm going to buy the tools and practice on a few pots I own already.



Took a look at the brewbuilt pots. I didn't see a 15 gallon option, but that being said I could have missed them. I really like the price of the Concord kettles I have seen.

In the link I posted, just to the right of the image, are boxes you can click for 10, 15, 22, 30 and 50 gallon.

 

[GoCobbers95]

Another good reason to do your own is to put a glorious soldered in bottom drain in all your vessels. When it comes time to clean, there's nothing better.

Alright... I have caught up on what the heck a bottom drain is all about. I would then physically plumb a line through my brew table and route hoses accordingly?

 

[GoCobbers95]

In the link I posted, just to the right of the image, are boxes you can click for 10, 15, 22, 30 and 50 gallon.

I'm an idiot!

 

[TexasWine]

Alright... I have caught up on what the heck a bottom drain is all about. I would then physically plumb a line through my brew table and route hoses accordingly?

Yup. Or you can even do things like attach the pump directly to the kettle.

If you have a stand like mine, which is a series of wire shelves, it's dead simple to plumb up a bottom drain. No need to drill holes in a table.

 

[TexasWine]

Took a look at the brewbuilt pots. I didn't see a 15 gallon option, but that being said I could have missed them. I really like the price of the Concord kettles I have seen.

Personally, I would avoid those kettles. Tri-clad bottom means no bottom drain. Plus there's no need for a tri-clad bottom if you're using heating elements.

 

[GoCobbers95]

Pricing things out, here's where I'm at without trying to hard to find deals. These are rough numbers...

Spike System Kettles fully setup - $1794
Stout Kettles fully setup - $1631
Concord Kettles fully setup - $1032 (This is the route I am going as of now!)

Concord Kettle Build

HLT
- 15g Concord Kettle https://goo.gl/q7Cpya
- HERMS Coil from Brewers Hardware https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hermscoil.htm
- Pull Through Compression fittings
- Bottom clean out drain (Specs unknown, estimating cost for now)
- 2 pull through bulk heads
- 2 - 3 piece ball valves
- 1.5in TC for heating element https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm
- Heating Element (Unknown, looking for recommendations)
- Pickup Tube

MLT
- 15g Concord Kettle https://goo.gl/q7Cpya
- False Bottom (Yet to be picked, estimating cost for now)
- Bottom clean out drain (Specs unknown, estimating cost for now)
- 2 pull through bulk heads
- 2 - 3 piece ball valves

BK
- 15g Concord Kettle
- 1.5in TC for heating element https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15rsf.htm
- Heating Element (Unknown, looking for recommendations)
- 2 pull through bulk heads
- 2 - 3 piece ball valves
- Bottom clean out drain (Specs unknown, estimating cost for now)
- Side Pickup tube

As I right this out, I'm aware I don't quite yet know where the temp probes should all go and what the hardware looks like to install. Anyone have feedback?

FWIW - My current Build estimate is $1980. I don't put a ton of stock in that number yet, but it aids in helping me move my thoughts forward.

Time to keep researching!

 

[sillbeer]

I had a 80 quart Concord kettle I purchased on eBay for under a $100 shipped a few years ago. I was really surprised how much kettle I got for that price. At the time there were some quality control issues and my kettle ended up measuring around 18.5 gallons.

Take a look at the HERMS coil I posted. I think it's a really nice unit.

https://store.brewpi.com/featured/stainless-steel-herms-coil-30cm-v2-npt

 

[GoCobbers95]

I had a 80 quart Concord kettle I purchased on eBay for under a $100 shipped a few years ago. I was really surprised how much kettle I got for that price. At the time there were some quality control issues and my kettle ended up measuring around 18.5 gallons.

Take a look at the HERMS coil I posted. I think it's a really nice unit.

https://store.brewpi.com/featured/stainless-steel-herms-coil-30cm-v2-npt

When I went to site originally, it defaulted currency to Euros and when I looked at about me, I noticed it was Netherlands. I wrongly assumed it wasn’t available to me in Minnesota. I’ll take a closer look.

 

[TexasWine]

Another thing to consider if you want to save some coin. A two vessel no sparge set up is great with the only limiter being you can't efficiently produce back-to-back batches.

Personally, I have what I call a two vessel counterflow HERMs system. I use my external chiller instead of a HERMs coil to ramp and hold MT temps. My BK doubles as the HLT. Two pumps, two vessels, one chiller.

So, you save by not buying a third vessel, a second heating element + enclosure, and you don't need a HERMs coil.

The Hosehead with CraftBeerPi installed would work with this set up (I looked into this a few weeks ago). Another thing you could do with the two vessel approach, and that I plan to do, is install two 5500 watt elements in the BK/HLT. Your ramp times would be unbelievable, plus there's the added benefit of a very low wattage density once a boil is reached and you turn the element power down. Should be close to 12-15 watts per square inch at the power needed to boil a typical batch.

Just more to consider.

 

[augiedoggy]

When I went to site originally, it defaulted currency to Euros and when I looked at about me, I noticed it was Netherlands. I wrongly assumed it wasn’t available to me in Minnesota. I’ll take a closer look.

the tax goes away when you make a purchase too... I ordered a couple speed controlled td5 pumps from there a couple months ago and had them delivered in like 3 days.
I have a concord I no longer use and some things to consider about them. they are nice heavy pots but the demensions are not as ideal being as wide or wider than they are tall. this means 5 gallons of liquid is a few inches lower than a taller narrow kettle.. for electric this makes brewing less in a larger kettle not as ideal. Also you will get more boiloff with such a large amount of headspace. and they take up more room.
I retired my concord for a few bayou classic kettles (16gallon kettles with a spigot /valve can be found as open box buys on amazon and ebay for $125 shipped as I bought 2 that way and a third 15 gallon bayou without any holes for around $100 shipped.

the bayou kettles are thinner but that matters very little on an electric setup.. its more convenient actually for drilling holes.

 

[mtbr_brewer]

First off, I have to give a plug to Kal at www.theelectricbrewery.com he offers a complete step by step build guide on his website (see right side of webpage). I pulled a TON of information from that when I started. It super well put together, and will even further convince you that DIY is a reasonable option for anyone. Not only is it build related, but also how to brew on an electric 3 vessel system. While you may not be using his panel the theory is the same.

Also, for fittings I use Proflow Dynamics (www.Proflow-dynamics.com), they typically run some sale codes for their fittings. Last I checked they are doing a 10% discount if you use the link on homebrewfinds.com plus an additional 15% off with a promo code. I'm not sure if both are still working, but I've used them for all my fittings and have had good luck (quality is good). Bobby has fantastic quality fittings as well, but just thought I would add that if cost is a major concern.

Also, if you aren't already subscribed to homebrewfinds.com they do a fantastic job of keeping track of sales and promotions on all things brewing. I've found some great deals, and a lot of unnecessary fun things too...

I bought a used HERMS coil on here for $75 bucks, but I also considered this vendor: http://stainlessbrewing.3dcartstore...-bends-50-x-12-OD-Tubing-304-HERMS-_p_30.html ($99).

If you do decide to go with punches I have had decent luck finding reasonably priced Greenlee punches on ebay. I have all the punches Kal outlines on his website, and plan to just hang on to them in case I do move to kettles at some point.

Have fun continuing to research and figure out your configuration! Leverage the forums as well, it will help you think of those things you may overlook and kick yourself for later (I've had my fair share)!

 

[GoCobbers95]

the tax goes away when you make a purchase too... I ordered a couple speed controlled td5 pumps from there a couple months ago and had them delivered in like 3 days.
I have a concord I no longer use and some things to consider about them. they are nice heavy pots but the demensions are not as ideal being as wide or wider than they are tall. this means 5 gallons of liquid is a few inches lower than a taller narrow kettle.. for electric this makes brewing less in a larger kettle not as ideal. Also you will get more boiloff with such a large amount of headspace. and they take up more room.
I retired my concord for a few bayou classic kettles (16gallon kettles with a spigot /valve can be found as open box buys on amazon and ebay for $125 shipped as I bought 2 that way and a third 15 gallon bayou without any holes for around $100 shipped.

the bayou kettles are thinner but that matters very little on an electric setup.. its more convenient actually for drilling holes.

Great information, thanks. I took a look at the dimensions you spoke of with the Concord Kettles. You're right, not ideal. I think I could deal with the boil off problem but I do like to do smaller batches here and there. Oddly, The ONLY thing I have against Bayou Classic Kettles is the stamped logo. I know how vain that sounds... The other aesthetics of the pots are great. I use a 11g currently as my MT.

First off, I have to give a plug to Kal at www.theelectricbrewery.com he offers a complete step by step build guide on his website (see right side of webpage). I pulled a TON of information from that when I started. It super well put together, and will even further convince you that DIY is a reasonable option for anyone. Not only is it build related, but also how to brew on an electric 3 vessel system. While you may not be using his panel the theory is the same.

Also, for fittings I use Proflow Dynamics (www.Proflow-dynamics.com), they typically run some sale codes for their fittings. Last I checked they are doing a 10% discount if you use the link on homebrewfinds.com plus an additional 15% off with a promo code. I'm not sure if both are still working, but I've used them for all my fittings and have had good luck (quality is good). Bobby has fantastic quality fittings as well, but just thought I would add that if cost is a major concern.

Also, if you aren't already subscribed to homebrewfinds.com they do a fantastic job of keeping track of sales and promotions on all things brewing. I've found some great deals, and a lot of unnecessary fun things too...

I bought a used HERMS coil on here for $75 bucks, but I also considered this vendor: http://stainlessbrewing.3dcartstore...-bends-50-x-12-OD-Tubing-304-HERMS-_p_30.html ($99).

If you do decide to go with punches I have had decent luck finding reasonably priced Greenlee punches on ebay. I have all the punches Kal outlines on his website, and plan to just hang on to them in case I do move to kettles at some point.

Have fun continuing to research and figure out your configuration! Leverage the forums as well, it will help you think of those things you may overlook and kick yourself for later (I've had my fair share)!

Awesome! Thank you for the resources. As I wait for my first purchases to arrive, I will dive in at www.theelectricbrewery.com. I have heard it referenced to many times to ignore... The $100 HERMS coil you linked is appealing, I haven't looked at exact specs yet and want to wait until I choose a kettle.

I know EXACTLY what you mean about homebrewfinds. I find myself purchasing great stuff that I have been looking for, but also unnecessary items as well. Thanks again!

 

[GoCobbers95]

Update:

I have made my first order. Tools and valves. My plan is to practice soldering in a few bulkheads purchased from brewhardware on my current setup. I have always wanted a whirlpool valve...

My plan is to make sure I am very comfortable with the the process of drilling/punching holes, pulling through fittings, and soldering prior to doing anything with my new build. The plan for the next few days is to read up on the 80+ page soldering thread linked in this thread, as well as hang out at theelectricbrewery.com.

I also am going to sneak a brew day in sometime in the next week. Oh, and I guess the other thing going on in my life is a baby (our first) arriving within the next two weeks or so.

Thank you all for the help thus far! A long way to go, but I am feeling more prepared every day to take this on!

Blessings!

 

[sillbeer]

My last kettle was welded. All three of my current kettles are weldless and I have zero issues.

 

[GoCobbers95]

Welp...

I made my first attempt at silver soldering on my current brew kettles. It went okay. Not near as intimidating as I was thinking it would be. What I learned is that I need a better stand to keep the kettle level and therefore keep the solder from running. Had some slight pooling outside of the dimple that I believe I will avoid with a bit of preparation. They cleaned up well and water tested without issue. Going to mess around with it all a bit more before I buy some kettles and start the project officially.

Thanks all!