Bump
jrb03,
First of all, great thread and great build. My question comes from the parts list that you posted, which includes capacitors. When looking at P-J's drawing, I did not notice capacitors, only fuses and resistors. I am wondering if capacitors were used/if they are necessary for this build?
Thank you!
I've got pretty much everything I need to start this build, but trying to decide where to mount the element-back or sides of the pot.
I will be using the Brew Hardware enclosure with the silver-soldered Tri-Clamp fitting for the 2000w SS element.
I'm leaning towards the back, just for a little cleaner look.
Question for all-Where did you put it and why? Any regrets?
Finally wiring up my panel, and have a couple of dumb questions.
The alarm switch should be wired at the NC blocks 1 & 2 and the E-stop switch wired at the NO blocks 3 & 4, right. Any issue removing the unused blocks on the switches to to make a little more room in a tight panel? I'm using the Auber switches specified in the diagram.
Also, should the E-stop be wired with 12g wire?
Thanks!
Sorry, yes. I'm using Pj's diagram at the beginning of this thread.
Then yes, the E-stop gets wired to the NO contacts. And there is nothing wrong with removing unused terminal blocks.
and the alarm switch is wired normally closed, right? Because you are opening the connection to turn off the alarm if my thinking is correct.
Wire an outlet for the pump, that way when you do get one all you have to do is plug it in. Also I'm sure you already know that running a 5500W element at 120V will get you ~1400W. So you'll need a decent sized heat stick to supplement.
Amazing thread, worked my way about halfway through it so far.
I was looking to brew 1-2 gallon batches but wouldn't have the liquid necessary with standard pot sizes with the mash bed and recirculation to make sure that the pump had liquid and the heating element was covered.
Does anyone know of a narrower / taller 6 gallon pot with basket, similar to the one originally posted? Also with a narrower pot would standard 1500W stainless heating elements be short enough?
Thanks!
It's a great pot, but the basket is too tall and won't clear a built-in element. I use this pot with an induction burner.
You would have to go with a false bottom or modify the basket to use a built-in element.
Good info. I have never seen this done before but is it possible to hook up a temperature controller to an induction burner or is it not practical for some reason? This would eliminate the interior element completely and would still get the info from the probe.
jrb03,
I see that you have been a member here for several years and I'm honored to be able to answer your first post.
I spent a few hours this morning drawing a diagram that should fit your needs.
The entire build should fit in the Auber Instruments Project Box.
I suggest that you also order their External Mount Heat Sink for the SSR.
The RTD temp probe could be the Deluxe version of Liquid Tight RTD Sensor. It is well worth the extra $9 for it.
I'm not sure how you plan on supplying the 12V power to your pump. I show a 120V outlet that can be used to plug in a transformer. (Edit: I did a search on greatbreweh and found their pumps. They ship with a 12V plug in transformer so the diagram is good to go for that as well.)
I hope this is of some help to you.
As always - Click on the image to see a full scale diagram printable on Tabloid paper (11" x 17")
Wishing you the best.
P-J
Could somebody please explain to me the significance of the resistor symbol between screw 4 and 5 on the PID? And what resistor should be used?
I do realize the two red wires from the RTD go to terminals 3 and 4 and the white wire goes to terminal 5 but I don't under stand the resistor symbol.
I'm using the (PT100-L50NPT) RTD
Thanks stlbeer that explains a lot. So the probe itself is the resistor. That makes me wonder if there is need for initial calibration?
I'm planning on mimicking this build with my 5 gallon stainless pot for 2.5 gallon batches, however I'm powering it with a Hosehead brew controller. The guts of the controller are similar, and I think the Hosehead draws around 1amp (2 SSRs and RPi).
I'm assuming I'll be dangerously close to the 20A breaker with my setup and may need to downsize my heating element:
@120v:
1x 2000W Heating Element = 16.6A
1x 12v Solar Pump = 1A
1x Controller = ~1A
18.6A Total @ 120v
I measured one of my outlets with a multimeter and it was showing 122V, but I don't know about the one I'll be plugging into.
Anything I'm missing or incorrect about in my math above? I'm hoping I don't build this entire system only to realize I can't use a standard household outlet.
Enter your email address to join: