10-3 or 10-4 wire

[Keano41]

I'm planning to convert my HLT to a 5500w element (with hotpod) and need some recommendations on what wire to run. At this time I don't plan to build a control panel but would like the option to down the road without purchasing another 15' of wire. I see the Electric Brewery uses 10-3 to power their control panel yet BrewHardware mentions using 10-4 to run to a control panel so you can run pumps/etc. I would assume I can get the 10-4 and cap off the neutral until needed and wire directly to the hotpod? I'm looking for some direction.
My electrical panel is in the garage with a dedicated 30A circuit wired with what appears to be 12awg wire to a 20A outlet...the wire and outlet will be be replaced to allow for a dryer receptacle or twistlock outlet. Is it recommended to replace the 30A breaker with a 30A GFCI too? I would rather not spend an extra $100 but don't want to make it unsafe either.

 

[jeffmeh]

You want H-H-N-G, though the confusion is that some refer to this as 10-3 (not counting the ground) and some as 10-4. You also should incorporate a GFCI. Note that curiously enough, most times you can get a GFCI spa panel for less than the cost of just a GFCI breaker.

 

[PeteNMA]

Wait wait. Are you asking about the wire to the control panel from your wall outlet? Or from the panel to the element?

You don't need to run a neutral to the element, it needs two conductors and a ground. My brew setup uses 4500w elements in the HLT and the RIMS tube, so I have to 10-3 SJOOW cable running from the panel to the elements. The two hot legs connect to the element, and the third conductor is the ground which is bolted to the hot pods.

Now for the supply from the wall to the panel, if you want to be able to power 120v accessories such as pumps, you do need four conductors to provide a neutral.

Something to be mindful of is that Romex does not count the ground conductor, so 10-3 Romex contains four conductors, three insulated and a bare ground. Flexible cable like SJOOW or SOOW has an insulated ground, so it gets counted therefore described as 10-4

 

[Keano41]

You want H-H-N-G, though the confusion is that some refer to this as 10-3 (not counting the ground) and some as 10-4. You also should incorporate a GFCI. Note that curiously enough, most times you can get a GFCI spa panel for less than the cost of just a GFCI breaker.

Ahh, that's right. Now that i go back and look it does have 3 conducts and a ground. I thought about running a spa panel too as it would save some money. I'll have to look into it.

 

[Keano41]

Wait wait. Are you asking about the wire to the control panel from your wall outlet? Or from the panel to the element?

You don't need to run a neutral to the element, it needs two conductors and a ground. My brew setup uses 4500w elements in the HLT and the RIMS tube, so I have to 10-3 SJOOW cable running from the panel to the elements. The two hot legs connect to the element, and the third conductor is the ground which is bolted to the hot pods.

Now for the supply from the wall to the panel, if you want to be able to power 120v accessories such as pumps, you do need four conductors to provide a neutral.

Something to be mindful of is that Romex does not count the ground conductor, so 10-3 Romex contains four conductors, three insulated and a bare ground. Flexible cable like SJOOW or SOOW has an insulated ground, so it gets counted therefore described as 10-4

Actually, It's both. For now I'd like to run 10-4 (cap off the neutral) to a hotpod and then eventually down the road build a control panel.

 

[PeteNMA]

Ah ok. Just wanted to make sure we steered you right. If you don't mind spending a little extra now then get 10-4 SJOOW or SOOW. You can use that to wire up your element and just not connect the neural to anything.

Then later on you can cut it short and connect the neutral in your panel. The neutral in the element line remains disconnected.

 

[Keano41]

Ok, good to know I can still get the 10-4 now and not have to switch out down the road. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

[Swamproad]

10-4 will not fit down a Hotrod. 10-3 will if the outer insulation is removed. I highly recommend it as the element is much easier to clean. I have a keggle with a element mounted inside the keggle that I have used for about 4 years but think the Hotrod is the way to go.