1-Gallon Brewers UNITE!

[DrunkleJon]

Perhaps I need to clarify once again. My *original* comment to @paul_111 expressed concern that using his 3-gallon to *secondary* in would cause problems. That's my main issue. Perhaps I wasn't clear enough in subsequent comments. All I know is that in *most* cases, when you open-ferment a beer that's not specifically meant to be fermented that way, you're courting infection. After all, if open fermentation was totally safe and appropriate across the board, why do any of us use closed fermenters or airlocks in the first place?

Open fermentation is safest while actively fermenting. From my research, once the offgassing drops most open fermenters switch to something more closed as the positive pressure of the CO2 blanket is not pushing out any airborne nasties. Of course I am not an expert, but I did stay in an Holiday Inn Express.

In my opinion, Using a larger carboy for 2ndary is ok as long as the O2 is displaced with CO2 either from the last vestiges of fermentation or being purged by the brewer. That way the headspace is not O2 and oxidization chance is minimized. True, a tighter fitting carboy will provide better protection, but in the end, its your beer. Do with it what you want.

 

[ehudmh]

Just brewed my first batch tonight! 1 Gallon kit from Northern Brewery with their Irish Red kit. Hoping it turns out so that my wife will take me serious and allow me to take up the space bigger batches would need.

My question is about bottling, and I apologize if this has been asked (I searched and couldn't find what I was looking for). Does the color of the bottle being used for bottling matter? I have enough green bottles on hand right now, but would a brown bottle be better?

 

[Tabb]

From my understanding as long as the bottles are in the dark your good.

 

[Leadgolem]

Just brewed my first batch tonight! 1 Gallon kit from Northern Brewery with their Irish Red kit. Hoping it turns out so that my wife will take me serious and allow me to take up the space bigger batches would need.

My question is about bottling, and I apologize if this has been asked (I searched and couldn't find what I was looking for). Does the color of the bottle being used for bottling matter? I have enough green bottles on hand right now, but would a brown bottle be better?

From my understanding as long as the bottles are in the dark your good.

Yup yup. This is a bit technical, but the basic conclusion is that brown glass bottles block UV light much more efficiently. If you keep them out of the light though, it doesn't make much of a difference.

 

[ehudmh]

I remembered something about this regarding milk, so I just wanted to make sure. Thanks!

 

[unkyjack]

Is anyone using a glass cooktop range for making 1-gallon AG batches? If so, I'd be interested to know if you use a flat-bottom pot or a pot with a recessed bottom to do your mashes and boils. By recessed, I mean the kind of pot that has about a 1-inch-wide strip around the bottom edge that contacts the stove surface and the rest of the bottom -- the center -- is recessed slightly so it doesn't touch the burner.

I'm asking because Granite-Ware, the manufacturer of one of the pots I use, and GE, who made our cooktop range, both claim that pots with a recessed bottom will potentially shatter a glass cooktop. According to them, the air in the recessed area between the burner and the bottom of the pot becomes super heated and shatters the glass. That's news to me. I've used the "unsafe" recessed pots on our glass cooktop for the past 6+ years with no problems. I'm wondering if the "you'll shatter your cooktop" warning is just CYA legalese mumbo-jumbo by these companies to try to avoid liability lawsuits by klutzy stove users or if there's some validity to it.

Anyway, I'd like to know what kinds of pots are being used by homebrewers with glass cooktop stoves and if they've had problems with any particular types of pots.

Jack

 

[Tabb]

I use a super cheap $8 pot from family dollar. Only thing its ever cooked is beer.

 

[tdhickey]

Question - does anyone who 1 gallon brews use a hydrometer?

If so, what is your strategy ?


- do you pour the beer back in the fermenter after its in the graduated cylinder?
- do you use a hydrometer directly in the fermenter?
- do you use something else for OG/FG?

Sorry if its been brought up hundreds of pages ago in this thread, just thought I would ask.

 

[Calichusetts]

Is anyone using a glass cooktop range for making 1-gallon AG batches? If so, I'd be interested to know if you use a flat-bottom pot or a pot with a recessed bottom to do your mashes and boils. By recessed, I mean the kind of pot that has about a 1-inch-wide strip around the bottom edge that contacts the stove surface and the rest of the bottom -- the center -- is recessed slightly so it doesn't touch the burner.

I'm asking because Granite-Ware, the manufacturer of one of the pots I use, and GE, who made our cooktop range, both claim that pots with a recessed bottom will potentially shatter a glass cooktop. According to them, the air in the recessed area between the burner and the bottom of the pot becomes super heated and shatters the glass. That's news to me. I've used the "unsafe" recessed pots on our glass cooktop for the past 6+ years with no problems. I'm wondering if the "you'll shatter your cooktop" warning is just CYA legalese mumbo-jumbo by these companies to try to avoid liability lawsuits by klutzy stove users or if there's some validity to it.

Anyway, I'd like to know what kinds of pots are being used by homebrewers with glass cooktop stoves and if they've had problems with any particular types of pots.

Jack

I use flat bottom pots, induction does work for a few milimeters beyond actual contact but I would want as much of the pot in touch with the burner as possible. Just for the sake of saving time bringing it to a boil, which is only 15-20 minutes but I would hate to have it longer. I believe that you can only use stainless steel pots or cast iron but you can't use aluminum. Some pots that mix aluminum and stainless will also not work properly. They need to have a magnetic bottom but any pot will list this if you just look

Question - does anyone who 1 gallon brews use a hydrometer?

If so, what is your strategy ?


- do you pour the beer back in the fermenter after its in the graduated cylinder?
- do you use a hydrometer directly in the fermenter?
- do you use something else for OG/FG?

Sorry if its been brought up hundreds of pages ago in this thread, just thought I would ask.

I usually use a refractometer for OG but its just as easy to use a hydrometer then add it to the primary without any issues. I also use a refractometer for FG, I test it as I transfer to the secondary and then when i bottle to make sure its done. There are accurate conversion charts for using a refractometer post-fermentation out there.

 

[BGBC]

Question - does anyone who 1 gallon brews use a hydrometer?

If so, what is your strategy ?

I use a hydrometer for OG and FG measurements. I thoroughly sanitize the test cylinder, thief, and hydrometer and then I dump the test sample back when I'm done.

 

[unkyjack]

I use flat bottom pots, induction does work for a few milimeters beyond actual contact but I would want as much of the pot in touch with the burner as possible. Just for the sake of saving time bringing it to a boil, which is only 15-20 minutes but I would hate to have it longer. I believe that you can only use stainless steel pots or cast iron but you can't use aluminum. Some pots that mix aluminum and stainless will also not work properly. They need to have a magnetic bottom but any pot will list this if you just look

Thanks for the info. I never thought this was an issue with a cooktop stove, but apparently it is. Even Northern Brewer refers to certain pots in their catalog as being unsuitable for glass cooktops. It pains me not to use my trusty Granite-Ware pot, but if it damages the cooktop, I'll never hear the end of it from SWMBO. So, for the sake of domestic tranquility I'm switching to flat-bottom pots. On the plus side, it gives me an excuse to upgrade my equipment as a "safety" issue.


Jack

 

[Leadgolem]

Question - does anyone who 1 gallon brews use a hydrometer?

If so, what is your strategy ?


- do you pour the beer back in the fermenter after its in the graduated cylinder?
- do you use a hydrometer directly in the fermenter?
- do you use something else for OG/FG?

Sorry if its been brought up hundreds of pages ago in this thread, just thought I would ask.

I usually just drop the hydrometer into the fermentor for OG. That usually doesn't work for FG though. Not enough depth to the liquid. So I take a sample, and then dump it back in for FG.

Just make sure everything is really clean. I also bottle pasteurize a lot. So getting an infection when taking FG isn't that big of a deal. It's going to get murdered by heat shortly anyway.

 

[DeadheadBrew]

Question - does anyone who 1 gallon brews use a hydrometer?

If so, what is your strategy ?


- do you pour the beer back in the fermenter after its in the graduated cylinder?
- do you use a hydrometer directly in the fermenter?
- do you use something else for OG/FG?

Sorry if its been brought up hundreds of pages ago in this thread, just thought I would ask.

I use this Refractometer from amazon. Works great! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0080CX8PE/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[DeadheadBrew]

Hey guys. I have been looking for a repository for 1 gallon recipes that people have actually had success in brewing. I know people say divide by 5 from a 5 gallon recipe, but I was just wondering if you guys found a one gallon recipe specific site.

 

[truekey]

Hey guys. I have been looking for a repository for 1 gallon recipes that people have actually had success in brewing. I know people say divide by 5 from a 5 gallon recipe, but I was just wondering if you guys found a one gallon recipe specific site.

I would invest in ibrewmaster or beersmith. They will automatically scale recipes for you.

 

[pulseyou]

Done two one gallon brews so far. Citra Pale Ale and a CITRA DIPA. Both are in primaries. Lovin this....

 

[Leadgolem]

Hey guys. I have been looking for a repository for 1 gallon recipes that people have actually had success in brewing. I know people say divide by 5 from a 5 gallon recipe, but I was just wondering if you guys found a one gallon recipe specific site.

Other then this thread/chatroom whatever this is now? Nope.

 

[DeadheadBrew]

Done two one gallon brews so far. Citra Pale Ale and a CITRA DIPA. Both are in primaries. Lovin this....

Care to share your recipe?

 

[JollyIsTheRoger]

I have a small little list of recipes I've done here http://www.brewtoad.com/brewers/1248/recipes There are a couple 5 gal batches there from work, but most are 1 gallon.

 

[cheesecake]

Moving sucks......

 

[Ostomo517]

Moving sucks......

Understatement of the year....

 

[BigRock947]

Moving sucks......

Yes it does...

 

[JollyIsTheRoger]

So happy that I get to stay in one place this year, first summer I haven't moved in about 7 years, haha

 

[cheesecake]

Moving tomorrow .... it really sucks.

 

[Jbird]

Moving sucks......

Yea I'm in the navy I move every 2-3 years.

 

[Leadgolem]

I moved every 1-3 years for pretty much my whole life. I bought a house last year, so hopefully that's done with for a little while.

 

[bleme]

My wife has lived in 4 houses her whole life, 2 of those since we married. I lived in 6 by the time I was 5!

 

[garethliam]

I have a small little list of recipes I've done here http://www.brewtoad.com/brewers/1248/recipes There are a couple 5 gal batches there from work, but most are 1 gallon.

Thanks, i will check these out - do you have any particular favorites that worked out well? I'm brewing my second 1gBIAB batch tomorrow using one of my recipes here http://www.brewtoad.com/recipes/schnoodle-von-weizenbock-biab
This one is adapted from Jamil's Weizenbock, but I had to tweak it slightly to meet what my HBS had in stock. I'll be tasting the stout this weekend .. Recipe also up on brew toad.

 

[DeadheadBrew]

Brewing my first all grain one gallon batch. Never brewed before. Fingers crossed. Here is my recipe.

1.6 pounds American 2-row
.1 pound Victory
.1 pound Caramel 10
.1 pound Caramel 20

.1 oz Chinook
.15 oz Cascade

We shall see. Im going to brew a chocolate porter tomorrow.

 

[ericbw]

Brewing my first all grain one gallon batch. Never brewed before. Fingers crossed. Here is my recipe.

1.6 pounds American 2-row
.1 pound Victory
.1 pound Caramel 10
.1 pound Caramel 20

.1 oz Chinook
.15 oz Cascade

We shall see. Im going to brew a chocolate porter tomorrow.

What yeast? Looks like some sort of pale ale? Or going for more brown with the victory?

That's about what my 1 gallon recipes look like.

 

[DeadheadBrew]

What yeast? Looks like some sort of pale ale? Or going for more brown with the victory?

That's about what my 1 gallon recipes look like.

Yes its a Pale ale. I used half a pack of Safale S-05 yeast

 

[DeadheadBrew]

Going to brew a chocolate maple porter today.

Here is my recipe.

1.2 pounds American 2-row malt
.3 pounds Chocolate malt
.2 pounds Caramel 15 malt
.2 pounds Black Patent malt

.4 oz Fuggle Hops
3/4 cup maple syrup (real maple syrup. not pancake syrup)

Half packet of Nottingham yeast

 

[ericbw]

Going to brew a chocolate maple porter today.

Here is my recipe.

1.2 pounds American 2-row malt
.3 pounds Chocolate malt
.2 pounds Caramel 15 malt
.2 pounds Black Patent malt

.4 oz Fuggle Hops
3/4 cup maple syrup (real maple syrup. not pancake syrup)

Half packet of Nottingham yeast

That looks good, too! I might give this a try for fall. Too heavy for me in the summer!

 

[Jbird]

Brewing my first all grain one gallon batch. Never brewed before. Fingers crossed. Here is my recipe.

1.6 pounds American 2-row
.1 pound Victory
.1 pound Caramel 10
.1 pound Caramel 20

.1 oz Chinook
.15 oz Cascade

We shall see. Im going to brew a chocolate porter tomorrow.

Yea should be good. Just make sure the water temp is right and you add the hops at the right time. Most importantly be patient!

 

[DeadheadBrew]

Second brew of the weekend done. I took a little taste. Sooo good. Came out with a 1.063

 

[Sloobie]

I built this little beauty today after being inspired by this thread. It's a 2 gallon mash tun, and I hope to mash 3 or 4 pounds in it. I already had the cooler, so I went to the hardware store and picked up the brass ball valve, 3/8" barbs for both inside and out, and other fittings for about $15. The false bottom is a splatter screen which was slightly too large, so had to be made a bit smaller. It looks pretty rough, and it may not be able to hold the weight of the grain, but I thought it was worth a shot.

I would love some suggestions for a false bottom that is about 7 inches in diameter, because this is the best I've come up with so far, other than drilling many holes in something...

I may just have to upgrade this setup to a 5 or 10 gallon cooler if it proves effective. I haven't had the opportunity to try it, but I've been doing 5 gallon partial mashes for a year or so now, and I'm trying to get into all-grain, though I also plan to do small batches more often.

 

[Jbird]

I built this little beauty today after being inspired by this thread. It's a 2 gallon mash tun, and I hope to mash 3 or 4 pounds in it. I already had the cooler, so I went to the hardware store and picked up the brass ball valve, 3/8" barbs for both inside and out, and other fittings for about $15. The false bottom is a splatter screen which was slightly too large, so had to be made a bit smaller. It looks pretty rough, and it may not be able to hold the weight of the grain, but I thought it was worth a shot.

I would love some suggestions for a false bottom that is about 7 inches in diameter, because this is the best I've come up with so far, other than drilling many holes in something...

I may just have to upgrade this setup to a 5 or 10 gallon cooler if it proves effective. I haven't had the opportunity to try it, but I've been doing 5 gallon partial mashes for a year or so now, and I'm trying to get into all-grain, though I also plan to do small batches more often.

Yes the only thing that I would do to make a false bottom would be to get a round piece of stainless steel and drill 1/8 or smaller holes all over it. You could make a neat pattern too. In the long run it might be worth it to make a 10 gallon mash tun just because you will make a kick ass brew and you would want to make a bigger batch of it. I'm just thinking in the long run.
But if you make this one super nice and feel In a year you want to make a bigger I'm sure you could sell it.
Good luck.

 

[rawkstar320]

I've been brewing 1 gallon batches for a while now, but I want to do one big (3 gallon) batch to catch up on my pipeline.

So I want to biab. How much different is this than regular all grain? Any recommended site to convert my recipes?

Thanks for the help!

 

[mb82]

I've been brewing 1 gallon batches for a while now, but I want to do one big (3 gallon) batch to catch up on my pipeline.

So I want to biab. How much different is this than regular all grain? Any recommended site to convert my recipes?

Thanks for the help!

No difference between BIAB and MLT brewing. BIAB is AG. Mill fairly fine and be ready for decent numbers.

 

[zeg]

In the long run it might be worth it to make a 10 gallon mash tun just because you will make a kick ass brew and you would want to make a bigger batch of it. I'm just thinking in the long run.

I don't have experience with this, but I'd think if you're regularly brewing small batches, having a small tun would be helpful. For sparging, you need a reasonably thick layer of spent grain to act as a filter bed, so if you use 2 pounds of grain in a 10 gallon tun, you're not going to get that. Also, the thermal mass will be smaller so hitting strike temperatures will probably be more accurate. Just my $0.02.

Of course, you could always go the BIAB route for small batches and reserve the tun for large ones. But I don't think it'll hurt to have a couple sizes to choose from.

So I want to biab. How much different is this than regular all grain? Any recommended site to convert my recipes?

As said above, there's no change needed to the recipes specifically due to the BIAB. As for any system change, however, you do need to correct for your efficiency and ensure that your system can handle the mash volume. Many people report efficiencies comparable to traditional systems, but I personally see efficiency in the 50%-55% range. This may be because I rely on suppliers for milling, but I'd be prepared for low efficiency on your first try. Just have some extract around and check your pre-boil gravity. After a few batches, you should be able to get a handle on the quirks of your system.