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Our local grocery store has "Sage Valley Organic Apple Juice", 1 gallon, unfiltered, pasteurized. Expensive, but the price is coming down now, as they must have a lot of it to move. I have been using it to make Apfelwein, and using the nice glass jars for brewing. It is unfiltered, pretty cloudy, and has a lot of apple sendiment, and I haven't bothered to wait for it to clear when making the Apfelwein.

Ed Wort has said elsewhere that if the juice is cloudy to begin with, that it won't ever clear up. Your's does eventually clear?

Scottie
 
I have had great results doing primary fermentation in my 1 gallon stainless steel kettle. The lid keeps contamination out while still allowing air to escape. I do secondary fermentation in glass bottles with either a #6 stopper and air lock on top, or sometimes just a piece of aluminum foil.
 
Ed Wort has said elsewhere that if the juice is cloudy to begin with, that it won't ever clear up. Your's does eventually clear?

I made some hard cider using half unfiltered sweet cider and half filtered juice. It cleared completely. I gave it about 4-6 months before bottling, though, and I think it took most of that time to clear up.
 
Hiya all, I would love to try brewing some SMASH brews to gain insight on the character and flavor of some particular hops and malts. Any one have some 1 gallon smash recipes? I was thinking of using american 2 row and cascade hops, but i am open to all suggestions. I want to make this a long term process starting with lighter malts (correct me if I am wrong but american 2 row is one of the lighter ones right?) and work my way up to the darker such as chocolate malt.At the same time I would like to use a hop for each brew that is comlimetary of that given category of malt.
How much malt, and hops do I need? any suggestions as to water temp and steeping time? I'll be starting with about 1.25 gal of water.. does that sound about right?
I have only made 1 brew before and it was an all grain IPA from Brooklyn Brew Shop (came out pretty damn good). Any who... any suggestions and tips would be great. Thanks all in advance for the help, this is a great forum and great community! Long live homebrewing!
- Ben
 
Hiya all, I would love to try brewing some SMASH brews to gain insight on the character and flavor of some particular hops and malts. Any one have some 1 gallon smash recipes? I was thinking of using american 2 row and cascade hops, but i am open to all suggestions. I want to make this a long term process starting with lighter malts (correct me if I am wrong but american 2 row is one of the lighter ones right?) and work my way up to the darker such as chocolate malt.At the same time I would like to use a hop for each brew that is comlimetary of that given category of malt.
How much malt, and hops do I need? any suggestions as to water temp and steeping time? I'll be starting with about 1.25 gal of water.. does that sound about right?
I have only made 1 brew before and it was an all grain IPA from Brooklyn Brew Shop (came out pretty damn good). Any who... any suggestions and tips would be great. Thanks all in advance for the help, this is a great forum and great community! Long live homebrewing!
- Ben

Welcome to the community! Heres a good place to start for SMaSH ideas, any 5 gallon recipes can be scaled down.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/best-smash-recipe-youve-made-336665/
 
I have heard of SMaSH's using 2-row, 6-row, Munich, Pilsner, Vienna, Kolsch, Maris Otter, Golden Promise, Crisp Amber, Pale Ale and Wheat Malt.

I don't think I would want to try a chocolate malt SMaSH.
 
I want to make this a long term process starting with lighter malts (correct me if I am wrong but american 2 row is one of the lighter ones right?) and work my way up to the darker such as chocolate malt.At the same time I would like to use a hop for each brew that is comlimetary of that given category of malt.
How much malt, and hops do I need? any suggestions as to water temp and steeping time? I'll be starting with about 1.25 gal of water.. does that sound about right?

I would agree w/ bleme. Only SMaSH w/ base malts.
 
Hiya all, I would love to try brewing some SMASH brews to gain insight on the character and flavor of some particular hops and malts. Any one have some 1 gallon smash recipes? I was thinking of using american 2 row and cascade hops, but i am open to all suggestions. I want to make this a long term process starting with lighter malts (correct me if I am wrong but american 2 row is one of the lighter ones right?) and work my way up to the darker such as chocolate malt.At the same time I would like to use a hop for each brew that is comlimetary of that given category of malt.
How much malt, and hops do I need? any suggestions as to water temp and steeping time? I'll be starting with about 1.25 gal of water.. does that sound about right?
I have only made 1 brew before and it was an all grain IPA from Brooklyn Brew Shop (came out pretty damn good). Any who... any suggestions and tips would be great. Thanks all in advance for the help, this is a great forum and great community! Long live homebrewing!
- Ben

welcome... the standard answer to pretty much all questions regarding recipes is to find something you like, and divide by 5.

for steeping (not mash) i use 2 quarts of water, never more than 3 quarts.

steeping temp around 165. recall it will drop when you add the grains

if i do all grain, then i use about a quart per pound, plus/minus a little bit.


oh yeah, 2 row and cascade is nice.

:)
 
ericbw said:
I meant yes. A growler with a stopper and airlock or tube. I use 1-gallon glass jugs that had cider in them. I think a half-gallon would be too small to be worth it.

I'm going to make a cider soon. I was just going to use tree top apple juice and some brown sugar. Do you think that is a good Idea? I will bottle it so ill carb it also.
 
ericbw said:
I meant yes. A growler with a stopper and airlock or tube. I use 1-gallon glass jugs that had cider in them. I think a half-gallon would be too small to be worth it.

Oh and I'll use Nottingham dry ale yeast.
 
Jbird said:
I'm going to make a cider soon. I was just going to use tree top apple juice and some brown sugar. Do you think that is a good Idea? I will bottle it so ill carb it also.

Yes, I think it's a good idea! Remember that the sugar will ferment out, so that will make it drier. Make sure tree top has no preservatives.

We had a blowoff tube on it for a week when we added extra sugars (DME or molasses).

We haven't perfected getting sweet carbonated cider. It's been very dry, almost like champagne. Its good but not like woodchuck or something. I think you need to keg it and carb that way. Or else time it so you bottle when it's sweet and then pasteurize when it is carbed.

But I think your idea is good with the cider, sugar, and Nottingham. Not a whole packet of yeast. Half a pack or maybe even less. Never used Nottingham. Does it go fast?
 
I would agree w/ bleme. Only SMaSH w/ base malts.

Mostly true. Aside from the unpalatable charcoal flavor you'd obtain, a chocolate malt (or any roast malt) SMaSH simply won't work. There are no enzymes, so you'll end up with nothing for the yeast to ferment. For the most part, the base malt rule is accurate. There are exceptions: any self-converting malt will work, some of which wouldn't be generally considered base malts because they only have enough diastatic power to convert more than their own starches.

You could probably do a crystal malt SMaSH as well. It would have a ton of unfermentable sugars left, but it would nominally work. I recommend a lot of hops.

The purpose of a SMaSH (IMO) is mostly to get a handle on your ingredients. For things like chocolate malt, you wouldn't need to use it for 100% of the grist even if that were feasible. The flavor is so strong that you can get the same effect by using 90-95% 2-row and 5-10% chocolate malt. That will tell you everything you need to know, and might be drinkable.


But I think your idea is good with the cider, sugar, and Nottingham. Not a whole packet of yeast. Half a pack or maybe even less. Never used Nottingham. Does it go fast?

Depending on your gravity, half a pack would probably be about in line with the pitch rate recommended on the package. That rate is higher than people usually use, it works out to 1.5–2 packs for a typical 5 gallon batch of beer. You could probably get away with less, but I wouldn't bother unless I had an immediate use for the leftover yeast.

It has always fermented very fast in beer for me, even in the high 50s. Never tried it in a cider.
 
ericbw said:
Yes, I think it's a good idea! Remember that the sugar will ferment out, so that will make it drier. Make sure tree top has no preservatives.

We had a blowoff tube on it for a week when we added extra sugars (DME or molasses).

We haven't perfected getting sweet carbonated cider. It's been very dry, almost like champagne. Its good but not like woodchuck or something. I think you need to keg it and carb that way. Or else time it so you bottle when it's sweet and then pasteurize when it is carbed.

But I think your idea is good with the cider, sugar, and Nottingham. Not a whole packet of yeast. Half a pack or maybe even less. Never used Nottingham. Does it go fast?

Is there a hop or malt I could add to make it not so dry?
 
Jbird said:
Is there a hop or malt I could add to make it not so dry?

Carapils, mashed high? Here are my other guesses that I want to try:

1) ferment dry, add fresh juice to back sweeten, kill the yeast (heat or campden?) then keg. That's far in the future.

2) ferment dry, then back sweeten, bottle and give it a few days, then stovetop pasteurize to kill the yeast. Otherwise you might get bombs.

In short, I have ideas but no proven great results. The dry stuff is great for what it is. We bottled in 7 oz champagne bottles.
 
In short, I have ideas but no proven great results. The dry stuff is great for what it is. We bottled in 7 oz champagne bottles.

I love my dry cider! The presence of the apple flavors leaves it with the impression of sweetness, but with a crisp champagne-like finish. I think I have about a dozen bottles left, probably a year after starting the batch. I'm looking forward to trying them (and hoping they haven't oxidized).
 
Our local grocery store has "Sage Valley Organic Apple Juice", 1 gallon, unfiltered, pasteurized. Expensive, but the price is coming down now, as they must have a lot of it to move. I have been using it to make Apfelwein, and using the nice glass jars for brewing. It is unfiltered, pretty cloudy, and has a lot of apple sendiment, and I haven't bothered to wait for it to clear when making the Apfelwein.

Ed Wort has said elsewhere that if the juice is cloudy to begin with, that it won't ever clear up. Your's does eventually clear?

Scottie

I'm going to make a cider soon. I was just going to use tree top apple juice and some brown sugar. Do you think that is a good Idea? I will bottle it so ill carb it also.

Yes, I think it's a good idea! Remember that the sugar will ferment out, so that will make it drier. Make sure tree top has no preservatives.

We had a blowoff tube on it for a week when we added extra sugars (DME or molasses).

We haven't perfected getting sweet carbonated cider. It's been very dry, almost like champagne. Its good but not like woodchuck or something. I think you need to keg it and carb that way. Or else time it so you bottle when it's sweet and then pasteurize when it is carbed.

But I think your idea is good with the cider, sugar, and Nottingham. Not a whole packet of yeast. Half a pack or maybe even less. Never used Nottingham. Does it go fast?
What is sold in the US as apple cider is basically just cold pressed apple juice with the solids left in. That means you have pectin in solution. Pectin is a water soluable carbohydrate that can trap particles in suspension. If you want to be sure it will clear, then add some pectin enzyme. That will break the pectin in sugar, and you shouldn't have much trouble getting the solids to drop out of suspension.

Ericbw, you probably had some pectin enzyme in the juice you cut the cider with. Most commercial apple juice is treated with pectin enzyme before being bottled. Either that, or you took the concentration of pectin down enough that it fell apart and released it's solids.

Is there a hop or malt I could add to make it not so dry?
Hops do not alter how dry or sweet your brew will come out. I suppose you could mash some malt high, though that seems unnecessary.

...2) ferment dry, then back sweeten, bottle and give it a few days, then stovetop pasteurize to kill the yeast. Otherwise you might get bombs...
I do cider on a regular basis, and this is exactly what I do. You can back sweeten with anything you like, but IMO frozen apple juice concentrate gives you the best flavor.

You can also fill a plastic bottle of about the same volume as the glass bottles you are capping, then pasteurize when the plastic bottle is hard to the touch. That gives you a guide for how much pressure is likely to be in the glass bottles.

This way you can bottle some dry, some semi-sweet, and some sweet. All from the same batch. I admit I frequently do batches of cider a lot larger then 1 gallon. :)
 
What is sold in the US as apple cider is basically just cold pressed apple juice with the solids left in. That means you have pectin in solution. Pectin is a water soluable carbohydrate that can trap particles in suspension. If you want to be sure it will clear, then add some pectin enzyme. That will break the pectin in sugar, and you shouldn't have much trouble getting the solids to drop out of suspension.

Ericbw, you probably had some pectin enzyme in the juice you cut the cider with. Most commercial apple juice is treated with pectin enzyme before being bottled. Either that, or you took the concentration of pectin down enough that it fell apart and released it's solids.


Hops do not alter how dry or sweet your brew will come out. I suppose you could mash some malt high, though that seems unnecessary.


I do cider on a regular basis, and this is exactly what I do. You can back sweeten with anything you like, but IMO frozen apple juice concentrate gives you the best flavor.

You can also fill a plastic bottle of about the same volume as the glass bottles you are capping, then pasteurize when the plastic bottle is hard to the touch. That gives you a guide for how much pressure is likely to be in the glass bottles.

This way you can bottle some dry, some semi-sweet, and some sweet. All from the same batch. I admit I frequently do batches of cider a lot larger then 1 gallon. :)

Yes, I should have mentioned that I added pectic enzyme to help it clear and yeast nutrient to give it some help.

The best batch was from a local orchard, which is pasteurized (supposedly). I added campden to kill the wild yeast first, too. I don;t think I will bother with that next time either.

We used some other brand of juice for other batches, and they didn't clear as well, but they also had other additions besides the juice.

Just remembered, one gallon had honey in it along with the DME.
 
Is there a hop or malt I could add to make it not so dry?

The directions on bottling in plastic so you can gauge the carbonation is perhaps the best bet. I was thinking that, but typing on my phone last night got old!
 
I have just completed my first one gallon beer, a spiced blonde. I made it in a one gallon jug and I now have about 2/3 left to bottle. Can anyone suggest about how much priming sugar I should use. Thank you
 
I have just completed my first one gallon beer, a spiced blonde. I made it in a one gallon jug and I now have about 2/3 left to bottle. Can anyone suggest about how much priming sugar I should use. Thank you

I use this bottle priming calculator here: http://www.thescrewybrewer.com/p/brewing-tools-formulas.html

But FYI I have found that Domino's Dots (2.54g dots) are perfect for 12 oz bottles. Just drop one in and you are good to go unless you planned on batch priming?
 
This is what I plan to make. Sounds good to me. I will scale it down to make 1gallon. What do you guys think.

image-323654119.jpg
 
Ok this maybe out there some where but instead of trolling through the 2700 plus posts i'll just ask. What is the typical boil off rate you fellas get for these one gallon batches? I'm thinking about doing some one gallon SMaSH beers.
 
Anyone have experience with oaking a one gallon batch? I'm thinking of doing 2 batches of barleywine, one oaked (rum or bourbon soaked) and one un-oaked. I know technically everything in a recipe should scale down, but I've also seen some people mention that spices and other additions seem stronger in the smaller batches.
 
Ok this maybe out there some where but instead of trolling through the 2700 plus posts i'll just ask. What is the typical boil off rate you fellas get for these one gallon batches? I'm thinking about doing some one gallon SMaSH beers.

I start with 1.5 gallons, in my 2 gallon pot and hit a gallon on the nose, every time.

That said, I know the exact setting on the stove to get my boil going, and to just barely avoid boil over and hit my 1 gallon number.

I started with about 1.66 gallons, and learned a little about cleanup after boil over, and adjusted downward.

Start with something similar, and then adjust accordingly.

Btw... I would recommend against the aforementioned boil over test. SWMBO will not be pleased with you
 
Kinda like @dadshomebrewing, I did a boil-off test. I filled my (12 quart) pot with two gallons of water, got it boiling, then set a timer for 60 minutes. When the timer dinged, I measured what I had left in the pot and it was just a touch over 1/2 gallon less than I started with.

Of course, not everyone's setup is the same, but the test to find out your specific rate is dead easy, so...
 
Just don't try the boil over test with 1.6 gallons of good wort in a 2 gallon pot, at a rolling boil.

Oh... And there is a similar lesson to be learned if you try to ferment a gallon of beer in a one gallon carboy without a blowoff tube.

Don't do that, either.

:)
 
Btw... It's good to be back in here

Yeah, it is. Been busy for awhile (and about to be busy again real soon) but I had to check back in with you fine folks. :rockin:
 
I've been on the road since New Years. Haven't brewed a batch since before Christmas.

And, as much as I like to brew, you gotta earn a living when it's there to be earned, so I'm not complaining too much.

Busy is a good thing... Damn sight better than the alternative.

See you around when I can.

Later
 
Jbird said:
This is what I plan to make. Sounds good to me. I will scale it down to make 1gallon. What do you guys think.

I think it looks interesting. It will get some residual sweetness from the crystal, which is good. I would give it a try.
 
This is what I plan to make. Sounds good to me. I will scale it down to make 1gallon. What do you guys think.

View attachment 105964

I think it looks interesting. It will get some residual sweetness from the crystal, which is good. I would give it a try.
Yeah, definitely worth a try. Then again, I'll ferment anything...

I just cracked a bottle of cider I made last august. I'd forgotten I had a few 12oz bottles left. Oh yeah, this is the good stuff. 16% and no alcohol flavor or aroma at all. This was back sweetened, then bottle pasteurized. No carbing though, bottled it still.
 
Leadgolem said:
Yeah, definitely worth a try. Then again, I'll ferment anything...

I just cracked a bottle of cider I made last august. I'd forgotten I had a few 12oz bottles left. Oh yeah, this is the good stuff. 16% and no alcohol flavor or aroma at all. This was back sweetened, then bottle pasteurized. No carbing though, bottled it still.

Wow 16% I wanna try that. Well how do you pasteurize? The only way I know is in boiling water and I'm afraid the cap would come off.
 
I'm thinking of trying Barley wine on my yeast cake from my last pale ales. Just contemplating if I should make 2 bathes or merge the 2 yeast cakes.
 
Wow 16% I wanna try that. Well how do you pasteurize? The only way I know is in boiling water and I'm afraid the cap would come off.
Unless you WAY over carbonate, pry top caps won't come off when you pasteurize. You will pop most corks though. It's really common to do this with cider, though it's just hot not boiling. I usually only take mine up to 160f, though I keep it there for 10 minutes. IMO, the lower temp with the increase in time leaves you with a better flavor. The FDA standard for apple juice is 160f for 6 seconds. I leave mine longer so I can be confident they are up to 160 all the way through.
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f32/easy-stove-top-pasteurizing-pics-193295/

That batch was made with apple juice, yeast nutrient, table sugar, and dried distillers yeast. It was horrible when young, and is fantastic now. :)

EDIT: One thing I don't remember seeing in the stove top pasteurization thread is that you don't want to set the hot bottles on the counter directly. They can cool to quickly and crack from the thermal shock. You should put them on a towel, or something similar to act as a thermal break.
 
Has anyone tried to mix two different priming sugars before?

I have 3.5 gallons of pale ale to bottle and only 60g of corn sugar left. (which makes for 2.0 volumes of CO2 rather than 2.4 that I'm shooting for)

So can I make up the difference with Sucrose?
 

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