1.040

[charless]

So I just did my second AG batch yesterday. I made a couple of errors. First I ended up with 6 or so gallons of wort. Second I probably should have used a couple more lbs of 2-row. Long story short my gravity after boiling was 1.040. I don't really understand all the gravity calc.'s yet. How weak will this beer be assuming that it ferments fine?

I'm probably fine as long as it tastes fine. The wife is a 100 pounder and can used a lighter alchohol beer.

Go Red Sox,
cds

 

[Yooper]

Well, without seeing a recipe and mash temps it's hard to say for sure but if it ferments to 1.010 (likely, depending on ingredients, yeast strain, and mash temps), it'll be a 4% or so ABV beer.

 

[el_kirk]

We need more information.
Batch size, grain bill, style you wanted, mash temps, etc...
The WHOLE recipe.

I make 1.040 beers on purpose; they get down below 1.010 or so and I've got a nice session beer.

 

[el_kirk]

Oops, Yooper beat me to it.
Yooper, I gotta say, it's a little creepy that your avatar looks so much like me.

 

[Yooper]

Oops, Yooper beat me to it.
Yooper, I gotta say, it's a little creepy that your avatar looks so much like me.

Dreaming again, huh?

 

[NWMOBrewer]

name it the IRS beer, or Short Form Ale, Something like that

 

[charless]

9lbs 2-row
1lb caramel

5.5 gallons batch (supposed to be 5 and I didn't ferment about .5 gallon)
mashed at 152 for 1 hour.
boiled about 1:25

Thanks guys.

Go Sox,
cds

 

[CPooley4]

You got about 61% efficiency and should have about 4% abv like Yooper said. Should be drinkable, but may taste a little thin depending upon your preferences.

 

[charless]

Alittle more base malt next weekend and less sparge water?

Go Red Sox,
cds

 

[CPooley4]

Not necessarily.

Here is a post from another thread regarding this subject:

Couple of things I typically recommend with all grain:

1. If possible, get a fine crush on your grains. Some of us have our own mills which makes this easy. If the crush is not somewhat fine you'll have starches stuck inside of uncrushed grain. Essentially lost efficiency.

2. Drain your mash tun dry (relatively). This is in reference to both your mash and sparge (especially your sparge). Any liquid left in your mash tun is lost efficiency.

3. Have a plan for your volumes (mash water, sparge water, preboil, post boil, etc...) and measure/record each step of the way. This will allow you to plan for future brews better and give you options during brewday to make on the fly decisions that can help you produce the beer you set out to produce.

Many other hints etc..., but those two are very important to getting good/consistent efficiency.

In my signature below you'll find my brew chart. Could be a helpful resource for you. Covers batch sparge all grain brewing from grain to glass. Essentially does all the math for you (plus a whole lot more) and let's you concentrate on brewing and measuring (item number 3 above is easy when using it). Spent a lot of time researching the information around here and many other resources. If you have any questions please feel free to ask.

I think you can do better than 61% with better planning. Eventually you should be able to get to the point that you're consistently hitting in the 70 - 80% range. I personally am consistent at about 80% these days. Ultimately it's not about how high your efficiency is, but about consistently hitting a certain number. That way you can plan your brews with confidence going forward.

Download my brew chart. It will be a good starting point for you as it's going to take care of all the math/volumes for you (plus a lot more). All you'll need to do is brew and measure properly. I'm always willing to help with questions etc... So if you have any questions feel free to pm or post here.

 

[charless]

pooley4,

Thank you. I can't getat that chart. Is there another way that you could send it to me? I am quite sure that my main issue is with the amounts of water. My first AG batch was a 59% efficiency. The second was similar but way too much wort. There was water left in the MLT as well.

Go Red Sox,
cds

 

[CPooley4]

pm me your email address and I'll email it to you.

 

[McMalty]

Alittle more base malt next weekend and less sparge water?

Go Red Sox,
cds

first of all, you ended up with 6 gallons. assuming you were making a 5 gallon batch, you had too much wort and therefore a lower concentration of fermentables and therefore lower gravity.

The amount of base malt and sparge water you used could have been fine (i'm guessing), but next time boil it down to at most 5 gallons. you can always add water if you need to reach 5 gallons, but you can't take out water without boiling the wort. Your OG would have probably been around 1048 if you boiled off that extra gallon.

If you haven't already, you should figure out a way to measure your kettle volume and also adjust your boil times accordingly

 

[charless]

McMalty,

yes I should. My burner isn't as efficient as I would like and it was my first time using the keg. I really need to figure out the correct amount of water to use to mash and to sparge so I end up with dry grain and 5.5 gallons. I don't good enough equipment to make up for mistakes easily. I used way too much and had water left over in the MLT as well.

Go Red Sox,
cd

 

[LarryC]

Once you decide how much you want in the kettle at the start (say 5 1/2 gal), it is fairly easy to get that amount out of the mash. If you are batch sparging your first infusion should be roughly 1.25 quarts X the weight of the grains in pounds. When you run off your first runnings from the MLT, measure the volume of wert you collected. Depending on the MLT size, your sparge water will either be the amount you plan on boiling (5 1/2 gal) minus the amount of your first runnings or 2 sparges with 1/2 the amount in each if your MLT can't hold all of it. When you are done with the sparge your grains should be fairly run out of wert and your boil kettle should have the amount you plan on boiling. Did that make sense (some times I ramble)?

 

[charless]

So this weekend I took everyones advise and studdied up on the amount to mash and the amount to sparge. I marked up some buckets as huge measuring cups and went at it. Wen I drained the mash out I only got 1.5 gallons. I then adjusted the amount that I was to sparge with. After spaging I was up to 5 gallons total, but I had extra hot water on the stove inside. I added another .5 gallons and hit my 5.5 intended gallons.

Long story short I ended up with 81% efficiency. It's already fermenting like crazy. Now I just have to repeat 81% every time and I'll be real pleased. Consistency is the thing right? This beer will be hotter than I expected but I'm sure it will be good.

Oh and C Pooley's charts are pretty F'ing cool.

Go Red Sox,
cds

 

[CPooley4]

Congratulations Charles, that's great news. Glad the Brew Chart helped a bit.

Yes, consistency is everything. Whether it's 70%, 75%, 80%, etc... doesn't matter. Just get your process down where you can expect a certain efficiency and you'll be in great shape for planning/brewing in the future.

cp