Keg fabrication

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

who897

Member
Joined
Oct 17, 2016
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Hey all. So I've tried the bottling, got old. Neighbor has keg system, expensive. I have access to a bunch of stainless 316 309 etc and fairly decent tig welder. Any thoughts on if it'd be worth trying to fabricate a keg? Anyone ever try? Any plans?
 
Why try to make a homemade pressure vessel when you can purchase a new one for ~$70 and a used for less. You're going to spend almost that much on connections to get it working.
 
Seems stupid to me. I too have access to the materials and can weld them myself (better than fairly decently I like to think). There's no way you can be more economical than a $10 keg which is about what a keg with no lid, connectors etc is worth. The cost of a used keg is so cheap it's crazy. The $$$ add up with a CO2 tank, regulator, keezer, taps, etc.
 
I'll play along. Read to the end.

You can go way cheaper on the fittings, it doesn't have to be threaded with a bung and a qd on top of that, you can weld any stainless fitting you want to the top (eg 1/4barb to anything) and hose clamp your gas line to that. Do the same on the bottom or bottom side for beer out and no dip dube needed.

Cleaning might be a little more complex then cleaning a corney but I doubt much harder than cleaning a Sankey. But there won't be any o-rings or threaded fittings.

If you build it small, (1-3G) in a tall and skinny shape I could see it working out nicely. Build it to fit your batch size and your fridge space. You could build a 1BBL bright tank that fits perfectly in a full size fridge.

You can also use those materials to build a MLT, HLT, BK, and FV.

I am a welder, fabricator and noticed you said decent tig. Read up on stainless welding and sanitary welding. You need gas on the back side of the weld. If I do sanitary stainless welds I treat it like I'm welding military grade titanium. Practice a few but joints, that's what your vertical seam will be, 110% penetration, 0 discoloration on either side, and back side will look like looking at your row of dimes through a glass table.

If you can weld like that go for it.
 
Why try to make a homemade pressure vessel when you can purchase a new one for ~$70 and a used for less. You're going to spend almost that much on connections to get it working.

Maybe I should bold a section of my reply. Economically I don't think this makes since. Realistically and safety wise unless you have training, experience, and QC making a pressure vessel is very dangerous. An incorrect weld or flat spot/pinch in a sheet roll will cause the vessel to fail at that point very quickly below expected pressure.
 
I'll play along. Read to the end.

You can go way cheaper on the fittings, it doesn't have to be threaded with a bung and a qd on top of that, you can weld any stainless fitting you want to the top (eg 1/4barb to anything) and hose clamp your gas line to that. Do the same on the bottom or bottom side for beer out and no dip dube needed.

I've though about building a cask like this. Just give it a couple PSI to keep the oxygen out and let gravity take care of making the beer flow. Not sure how I'd keep an elevated keg cool though.

X2 on sanitary welds. Making them with zero porosity (spots for microbes to grow) will be challenging for a "very good" welder let alone a "fairly decent" welder. Automation is invaluable in this respect.
 
Flooding the inside with shielding gas wouldn't be a problem. But what I'm gathering is its not worth it but it'd be hella cool to show off "my keg". I'll research some fittings but put this inn the back burner. Now onto making some nectar this weekend. Been turning out flat and sour past two batches. Time to make the brew area ( garage) a laboratory grade clean room and all my instruments uber sanitized**crossing fingers**
 
Unless you need a specific shape for a too-small-for-standard-kegs fridge, just buy used. As was said, the kegs are likely not the most expensive part of the kegging process.

Adventures in homebrewing currently has a sale on kegs:

4x pin lock for $149
4x ball lock for $199

http://www.homebrewing.org/Sale-Items_c_21.html

Personally I like the pin locks, aside from the price, because I can visually see they are locked (not that I've ever had a ball lock connection - beer or otherwise - fail me in any way).

*No connection to Adventures in Homebrewing, although they are my LHBS.
 
Personally I like the pin locks, aside from the price, because I can visually see they are locked (not that I've ever had a ball lock connection - beer or otherwise - fail me in any way).

*No connection to Adventures in Homebrewing, although they are my LHBS.

You'll know if a ball lock isn't locked down. Absolutely nothing will happen! Really nothing will happen, gas won't flow, beer won't flow. You'll have an empty glass which will raise awareness of the problem:D
 
Unless you need a specific shape for a too-small-for-standard-kegs fridge, just buy used. As was said, the kegs are likely not the most expensive part of the kegging process.

Adventures in homebrewing currently has a sale on kegs:

4x pin lock for $149
4x ball lock for $199

http://www.homebrewing.org/Sale-Items_c_21.html

Personally I like the pin locks, aside from the price, because I can visually see they are locked (not that I've ever had a ball lock connection - beer or otherwise - fail me in any way).

*No connection to Adventures in Homebrewing, although they are my LHBS.


I like the ball locks because they are slightly narrower which is a big deal for smaller cf chest freezers and kegerators
 
Back
Top