Control Panel QC and testing

I recently completed the 30 amp PID control panel kit from Ryan at Ebrewsupply. Having completed the build, I am really only unsure of one bit of wiring. I did not label the neutral wires that go from each SSR to the respective PID, and since those wires are running underneath the backplate of the panel, I can't identify which is which. Of course, there is a 50/50 chance that I've wired it correctly.

Since I don't have the kettles for the new rig ready to go, I can't conduct a wet test run to see if the elements will fire as called for by the PIDs. Are there any simple tests I can do without elements plugged into the panel that will confirm that PIDs and SSRs are functioning normally? At minimum I'd like to confirm that the system is working in PID manual mode.

"I did not label the neutral wires that go from each SSR to the respective PID"

I don't have a wiring diagram for your system but this statement is confusing. The only wires between PID and SSR should be light gauge trigger wires that carry the 5volt signal to "fire" the PID

Bellybuster said:

"I did not label the neutral wires that go from each SSR to the respective PID"

I don't have a wiring diagram for your system but this statement is confusing. The only wires between PID and SSR should be light gauge trigger wires that carry the 5volt signal to "fire" the PID

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I may have phrased my question somewhat incorrectly. There are low voltage wires that run from each low voltage terminal on the SSR to the respective PID. I used color coded wires for one of these leads, but not the other, on each PID.

The wiring diagram I used is located on the web at guide.ebrew.supply, on page 80. My system uses Auber PIDs, not the Love ones that are currently depicted in the wiring guide.

if the ssr has a light, you can test it by just powering up and looking at the light but should only be a low votage negative and positive going from pid to ssr like above

Do you have a multi-meter? If so, test continuity between the SSR neutral and the PID neutral to determine which wire goes to each SSR

Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:

if the ssr has a light, you can test it by just powering up and looking at the light but should only be a low votage negative and positive going from pid to ssr like above

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You're right about the negative and positive from PID to SSR. My terminology of "neutral" is clearly wrong. I know that one wire from each PID to SSR is correct, the other two may or may not be reversed. I will check and see, but I believe my SSRs have lights on them.

Are the wires in question laced down with cable ties, or more or less free?

If they are free, you can trace them with the time proven tug/jiggle method.

jdub1782 said:

Do you have a multi-meter? If so, test continuity between the SSR neutral and the PID neutral to determine which wire goes to each SSR

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I checked continuity with a multimeter and I did have two of the low voltage wires connected to the wrong PIDs. It was a two minute fix.

Unfortunately, my SSRs do not have lights on them. I suppose I will have to wait until my kettles are done and elements are plugged in so I can conduct a wet test to confirm that the elements are firing properly.

You should be able to put the PID into manual mode and tell the "element" to fire and check the voltage with your multimeter at the element receptacle and/or at the SSR.

Lumpyyyyy said:

You should be able to put the PID into manual mode and tell the "element" to fire and check the voltage with your multimeter at the element receptacle and/or at the SSR.

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I can certainly attempt this. However, leakage current from the SSR causes my "element firing" indicator LED to glow when no element is plugged into the panel. Will the same leakage current cause the 240 V circuit to show a voltage potential even when the PID isn't telling the element to fire?

Lumpyyyyy said:

You should be able to put the PID into manual mode and tell the "element" to fire and check the voltage with your multimeter at the element receptacle and/or at the SSR.

Click to expand...

As it turns out, I had the polarity reversed on the low voltage wires running from the PIDs to the SSRs. Once I got those changed around, everything seems to be working perfectly! My SSRs do have lights on them, and they light up when the PIDs tells the elements to fire. Also, the "element ON" LEDs on the panel are working correctly. I tested several circuits with my multimeter, including the outlets for the elements and pumps. All are functioning as expected.