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Owly055

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The length of the brew day seems to be the issue that is most intimidating to many people who would like to brew.... "I just don't have the time". Would they brew if they had a Pico Brew? I don't know, but I do know that most of them would not spring for one. Simplifying the operation, and reducing the time commitment is I think important. I've already proven that it is possible reduce the brew day down to about 2.5 hours, and still brew great beer. At least to my satisfaction........ I've also demonstrated repeatedly that you can leave a mash for many hours, thus breaking down your brew day into two manageable pieces.
 
If I am not mistaken, I think I saw you say a number of times that you brew 2.5 gallon batches. The reduced size of the batch, in itself, could knock off as much as an hour in prep time, heating, sparge, cooling, clean-up, and probably other things.

When you toss out these statements "I've already proven that it is possible reduce the brew day down to about 2.5 hours", I think you really should say the size of the batch you are talking about. You have done this a number of times in the past and not noted that you make smaller sized batches than what most would consider 'normal'.

I regularly brew 6+ gallon batches, and depending on the beer, can be down to 4 hours including clean-up. I'm in no rush, and it usually takes 5, and for hoppy beers, you can add at least an hour for the hopstand/whirlpool.

I assume you are talking about all-grain. With extract I can be down to under 2 hours, from deciding to do it (no initial prep) to cleaned up and packed away. ....... This beer would not have a 60 minute boil.

I have done a few 2.5 gallon simple extract batches to check out hops, and just done a 20 to 25 minute boil, with lots of finishing hops (no hop stand), and have been pretty much done in an hour. Maybe with clean-up it might have been 1.5 hours. I was not tracking time.
 
I don't get the point of the OP, but yes, batch size is pretty important when talking about reducing brew day time. Also, mashing for hours because you split up the process doesn't really reduce time, it just divides it up. It could work for some, but for me, I like to do it all in one go. Also, getting 7 gallons up to a boil will always take longer than whatever your preboil volume is for 2.5 gallons.
 
2.5 gallons in 2.5 hours? i do 11 gallons in 4.5 hours, so i see that as a better return. besides, i'm not thinking about time and rushing when i brew. i enjoy doing it, even though i do it rarely. when i do brew, it's MY time; everyone knows to leave me alone and let me enjoy my "me" time, so time isn't an object anyway. if you're worried about time, either go to a beer store and buy it or brew extract and do a 45 minute boil. even better, get prehopped kits and do a 10 minute boil. it's all relative to where your priorities lie, and i enjoy brewing and clearing my head. if you're worried about time, you might want to find another hobby, as this 1 can sure eat up some time
 
Lumpher got it right. Shoot for us brewday is just that, not brew 2.5 hrs. It is getting together with my pals, brewing up some good beers, tasting some good beers, busting each others' balls, clean up, have a couple more while sitting down for a sec, having my super wonderful wife pick me up and pick up some dinner, then relax on the floor with my Son and Dog. I brewed solo the other day and man did it go quick, not near as fun. I never had hobbies now I get to have them. They are handy for blowing off steam and getting my focus back. But I guess other people brew for different reasons and want to hurry and be done with brewday, some want to have a computer brew there beer for them. I just enjoy the journey.
 
There is a line in the sand.
Spending all day on a batch isn't really a lot of fun all the time, but I don't want to rush through things either.
Extract brews go much quicker than all-grain (no spending an hour on mash, plus however long you take for drain and sparge) and usually extract is partial boil anyway, so less time heating, and using near freezing top off water helps in cooling also.
 
I might be alone on this one, but I actually enjoy the time I spend brewing. Don't mind systematically cleaning and sanitizing my equipment. Love watching water and grains marry in the mash. The soft bready aroma sticks around a few days after I'm done brewing and I wish it stayed longer. It's not uncommon for my brew day to take 5-7 hours, but I don't mind.

The hardest part about homebrewing is waiting for your next beer. Especially if your pipeline gets as thin as mine is now.
 
The length of the brew day seems to be the issue that is most intimidating to many people who would like to brew.... "I just don't have the time". Would they brew if they had a Pico Brew? I don't know, but I do know that most of them would not spring for one. Simplifying the operation, and reducing the time commitment is I think important. I've already proven that it is possible reduce the brew day down to about 2.5 hours, and still brew great beer. At least to my satisfaction........ I've also demonstrated repeatedly that you can leave a mash for many hours, thus breaking down your brew day into two manageable pieces.

If you leave your mash for many hours does your efficiency increase just curoius?. I talk to someone who believe that fly sparging increases efficiency just because the grains are in water for almost two hours when you think about it.

Do you mind telling me how you Brew in two and a half hours if it's already been posted sorry I'll find it. Takes me three and a half I think with my new electric element and a better chilling process I could speed up. Yeah brewing all day isn't fun for me and this isn't a hobby it's a part of my life. I'm a new member here and it's obvious my way of thinking is aligned with you but not with many others. I have made some personal growth coming to terms with the fact that a lot of people want to spend money and time brewing. I have neither and I don't want to be grudge on those who do. A lot of people this time is a peaceful time or a time with friends . I have sent a thread basically saying if you want to know how to brew quick ask me and no one has or probably will. The debate is who makes the better product someone who spends a lot of time or someone who doesn. Hopefully this discussion could be had peacefully at some point. But I'm with you and I agree speed is important and I agree also that many new home brewers are turned away
 
Lumpher got it right. Shoot for us brewday is just that, not brew 2.5 hrs. It is getting together with my pals, brewing up some good beers, tasting some good beers, busting each others' balls, clean up, have a couple more while sitting down for a sec, having my super wonderful wife pick me up and pick up some dinner, then relax on the floor with my Son and Dog. I brewed solo the other day and man did it go quick, not near as fun. I never had hobbies now I get to have them. They are handy for blowing off steam and getting my focus back. But I guess other people brew for different reasons and want to hurry and be done with brewday, some want to have a computer brew there beer for them. I just enjoy the journey.

I respect this! I do the same thing I just golf
 
I might be alone on this one, but I actually enjoy the time I spend brewing. Don't mind systematically cleaning and sanitizing my equipment. Love watching water and grains marry in the mash. The soft bready aroma sticks around a few days after I'm done brewing and I wish it stayed longer. It's not uncommon for my brew day to take 5-7 hours, but I don't mind.

The hardest part about homebrewing is waiting for your next beer. Especially if your pipeline gets as thin as mine is now.

I don't think you are at all and that satisfaction is what it's all about...... i brew when I get home after work on weeknights so im not messing around
 
I start with planning days, if not a week ahead of time from the minute I set the flask on the plate. For me, just getting my supplies requires a 120 mile round trip to the brewshop which pretty much burns up one off day alone. Since I work night shift, good quality restful sleep is out of the question which means the first off day is pretty much crap.

Since I brew in my garage, most everything I need is outside, however, I still take the time to set up Brewsmith and square away the little things the night before, and if i'm doing double batches, i'll assemble my filtering stuff and pre-measure my water ahead of time. In addition to this, the burners and pots as with my computer is set to go so that when I wake up the next morning, all I have to do is make a pot off coffee and light the fire. Does it shorten the brewday? I guess not when you factor in the time I spent preparing for it, but it does allow me to have a nice steady workflow without feeling rushed.

Brewing is supposed to be fun and I do what I can to keep it that way, I found I make the most mistakes when I try to brew tired or allow myself to get rushed if I start late and have a bunch of chores to do. I find it most enjoyable to turn on the TV and watch a ballgame or listen to the radio when I'm brewing. But all that said, there is something awesome about seeing the sun rise up and starting a new day with the fire heating the kettle.

If I was just looking for a short brew day, I would head up to the beer store at halftime to grab a 6pk.

Enjoy the brewday!

Ken
 
OP, I agree that overly complicated systems are a deterrent to new brewers. I think there is a need for a nice succinct tutorial for a simple 2 hour brew day geared at beginners. I would be curious for you to post your method step by step with pictures so others can try it.
 
OP, I agree that overly complicated systems are a deterrent to new brewers. I think there is a need for a nice succinct tutorial for a simple 2 hour brew day geared at beginners. I would be curious for you to post your method step by step with pictures so others can try it.

Me too me too
 
The people who obsess with making brew-day as short and easy as possible are forgetting that brewing is a hobby, so you're suppose to enjoy it (or most of it, but most hobbies have their chores (cleaning) ). If you enjoy your hobby, you will find time for it. Otherwise, "relax, don't worry, have a commercial brew."
 
Most of the replies to this are a repetition of what I've heard again and again.

Clearly brewing a 15 barrel batch is vastly more efficient than brewing a 2.5 gallon batch in terms of time. If the object were to get the most beer for the least time, that would be the answer. It works for microbrewers.

The repeated suggestion or implication that someone who wants to cut the brew day down must not like brewing, is just plain absurd. I brewed brew # 105 yesterday.... in about 20 months. 65 brews so far in my second year of brewing. That's more than a brew a week... Can you even remotely imagine I don't like brewing?? Get real!! Everybody who brews once a week please raise your hands..

Each brew is different. I always want to try a change in the hops, or tickle the grain bill a tad. I'm not the kind of brewer that wants to duplicate Zombie Dust again and again so I always have a supply of it........ I guess that makes me different from most folks here. I don't want 5 or 10 gallons of the same thing to go through before I can brew again.

The implication that volume makes for more time is absurd...... You scale your equipment to match your volume. You guys who brew 5.5 or 11 gallon brews use huge propane burners in the garage...... I brew on the kitchen stove. Do you really think it takes you longer to reach a boil than me? NONSENSE. Likewise chilling....... If you took my home made immersion chiller sized for my cheap Walmart stockpot, it would take you nearly twice as long to chill your 5.5 gallon brew as it takes me to chill my 3 gallon brew, but we all know that's not the way it is in real life.

Splitting the brew day DOES save time........ In reality it saves an hour because you aren't there during the mash. I frequently do this for this reason.

Here is a brew day for me.....not necessarily typical as I often mash all afternoon while I'm working somewhere else:

My most recent brew day was under 2.5 hours..... I started the water heating while I crushed the grain, doughed in at a strike temp of about 150, which put the dough in temp at about 140....... I rapid heated up to 145, and slow heated (1/2 deg per min) up to 155, at which point the conversion was complete. I used a fairly fine double crush. While mashing, I had a large sauce pan full of water heating on the back burner. I then poured the mash into my large kettle through a brew bag resting in a colander, rinsed the mash kettle, set it on the stove at full flame, dumped the large sauce pan of water in, and diluted it with tap water to achieve a desirable sparge temp, and volume, and dropped the brew bag in, lifted it off and set the big kettle on the heat stirring the mash in the sparge water. I lifted the brew bag into the colander and squeezed it, then poured the remaing wort in the large kettle which was on the heat. I then dropped my 2500 watt home made floating heater in the wort and plugged it into my non GFC outlet installed for the purpose, and quickly measured my first hop addition hops..... Within 5 minutes the hot break was overflowing the edges of my floating heater, and I was at full boil, so I added my first addition. An hour later after adding my other hop additions, I lifted the brew kettle into the sink and hooked up my immersion chiller. 10 minutes later (approx), it was at pitch temp, so I dumped it in the fermenter and pitched the yeast, and proceeded to clean up and put equipment away... About a 10 minute process. My total elapsed time was 2 hours 17 minutes start to finish. My efficiency was in the high 80's, and the fermenter was "boiling" within 2 hours due to the heavy pitch.

This clearly was a pretty intense day except for the hour boil... though I took advantage of that time to clean up and put away equipment. I know exactly what I need, where to find it quickly, etc. The key is having your ducks in a row so to speak. It is by no means "rushed" as some have suggested. I had time to drink a couple of beers, talk on the phone, answer email, etc. There were a few periods of intense activity, but they are brief.

The reality is that the 20 minute mash and the all afternoon mash do not produce greatly differing beers. The beer does not become super dry as a result of sitting all afternoon..... because mash temp falls off. The 20 minute mash does not make a heavy sweet beer..... because the crush is finer. I also usually add amylase when I do this..... I have half a liter of AG300 on the shelf. Theory and reality are not the same thing at all.

My original point was how to make all grain brewing more accessible for people who are "time challenged". What I'm getting here is an ambivalent attitude. If you don't have the time, you shouldn't be brewing, or you should brew huge batches on a massive brew stand so you get more beer per hour. Personally I would love to see the LHBS get a few Pico Brews so people could craft a brew and just pick up the wort..... or have it delivered like a pizza joint. At least they would be brewing! I'm not into exclusivity.....I'd like to see everybody who loves beer involved at some level, be it making 15 barrel batches or extract brewing, or crafting a recipe and sending it to the LHBS to be brewed on the Pico. The more the merrier. That makes availability and cost of supplies go down (both are poor here), and it means more people experimenting on the bleeding edge. Making mistakes so I don't have to make them myself!!!


H.W.
 
The implication that volume makes for more time is absurd...... You scale your equipment to match your volume. You guys who brew 5.5 or 11 gallon brews use huge propane burners in the garage...... I brew on the kitchen stove. Do you really think it takes you longer to reach a boil than me? NONSENSE. Likewise chilling....... If you took my home made immersion chiller sized for my cheap Walmart stockpot, it would take you nearly twice as long to chill your 5.5 gallon brew as it takes me to chill my 3 gallon brew, but we all know that's not the way it is in real life.

I can tell you with 100% certainty that, on my setup, 2.5 gallons boils much faster than 10 gallons boils. If I brew a smaller batch, it's a faster brew day. It really is that simple. Same goes for chilling for those of us who have plate chillers. 10 gallons will always take longer to chill than 2.5 gallons. That's just the way it is with this equipment. You are reading too much into this and taking people's comments WAY too personally.

And you REALLY should have that thing plugged into a GFCI outlet.
 
I can tell you with 100% certainty that, on my setup, 2.5 gallons boils much faster than 10 gallons boils. If I brew a smaller batch, it's a faster brew day. It really is that simple. Same goes for chilling for those of us who have plate chillers. 10 gallons will always take longer to chill than 2.5 gallons. That's just the way it is with this equipment. You are reading too much into this and taking people's comments WAY too personally.

And you REALLY should have that thing plugged into a GFCI outlet.

I think that's exactly the point I was making.............. your system is scaled to your brew size.......Mine is scaled to my size of brew .... If I were brewing 5 or 10 gallons I would have a huge outdoor propane burner. Are you brewing on your kitchen stove? Using the comparison of you brewing on an outdoor huge propane burner with me brewing on a kitchen stove is absurd! Let's compare apples to apples here. I have a well grounded system......... please tell me why I need GFCI?

H.W.
 
He only brews 2.5 gallons. He's probably out of beer.

While I agree that owly often comes off defensive, and isn't always the most tactful of posters he has provided some good information here and there.

With that said, i brew even smaller batches now, 0.75-1.5G batches. Often I'm done too in ~2.5 hours. I did full 5 gal batches for 2.5 years, then moved to a small apartment in Chicago so not a feasible solution for my situation. I now have more variety and have gained a lot of practice in a much smaller time than I would have if I continued doing bigger batches.

mash in my slow cooker for the tiny batches, and wake up to 1.5G of strike water at ~170 thanks to my coffee kettle and the slow cooker being on a gfci and a lamp timer. I did 4 batches in the first week, and will be doing 5 batches on Tuesday. A partigyle barleywine and brown ale, then a dubbel, trippel and Belgian single. I expect to be done in 6 hours.
 
The original point was the constant refrain from wannabe brewers....... "I don't have time", and what we can do to address that while keeping the initial outlay low. Larger systems are not the answer for those people...... The only real improvement in brewing technology in that direction has been BIAB. Anything else involves a lot of cash outlay.

I just started a friend in all grain brewing a couple of weeks ago....... using BIAB, initially starting out with 3 gallon brews..... he plans to upscale after he has a handle on it. He's doing batch 3 tomorrow. Time is his big issue, and we are addressing it by the split brew....... Start the brew during lunch hour, leaving the mash until he gets home......... that saves an hour. I hope to get his boil time reduced to 30 minutes, as he is boiling on a large propane outdoor burner, and not using Pilsner malt. That saves another 30 minutes. Hops measured and grain crushed in advance when he has a few minutes saves more time on brew day. The next logical step would be a small electric water heater running at strike temp. At about $250 for a water heater, mashing could be as simple as drawing your water from a faucet and stirring in the grain. Could build an HLT, but that's what a water heater is and it's built, insulation and all. Likewise sparging..... If he decides to sparge. That would mean that during his lunch break, he could simply dough in from a hot water tap, making it a job of a few minutes only. Coming home from work, he would be looking at perhaps an hour or a bit more total with draining, a 30 minute boil, chilling, pitch, and clean up. This would make it pretty darn painless....... about as easy as it gets without automation.

H.W.
 
I brew both 2.5 gallon batches and 5 gallon batches. It really just depends what beer it is, how much extra cash I have, and how much time I have, as to what size I chose to brew.

I've done both 2.5 and 5 gallons on the stove. I have a propane burner but sometimes the weather gets in the way of brewing outside with the burner. 5 gallons obviously takes much much much longer to get boiling on a stove than the 2.5 gallons does. However, with the larger batch on the stove while I'm waiting on the boil I have much more time to clean up everything from the mash. Usually, with 2.5 gallons on the stove, I don't have as much time to clean things up while I'm waiting on the boil. I usually end up cleaning after the beer is in the fermentor which adds more time to my 2.5 brew day. All in all I think I might save 30 minutes to an hour brewing the half batches. In the end I still get beer the only difference, really, is a 24 pack or two 24 packs because the time spent is relatively the same.

I have a 16 month old so brewing always comes down to "do I have time?" There are many ways to try and save time while brewing but in the end, from my experience, all the extra thought about changing processes, extra prep days before, etc, just adds stress to my life. Brewing takes time and the cut-through methods just aren't for me because I haven't really seen a big benefit in time savings. Of, course, this just my experience. Everyone has different equipment, different processes, and different reasons we brew. As long as you're happy with your time spent, vs how the beer comes out, then I say you're winning.

Now if we can figure out how to make a decoction mash faster we'd be really on to something!
 
Well this is never going to end....I'll come back in a week and see how many people lose their $H!+
 
My most recent brew day was under 2.5 hours..... I started the water heating while I crushed the grain, doughed in at a strike temp of about 150, which put the dough in temp at about 140....... I rapid heated up to 145, and slow heated (1/2 deg per min) up to 155, at which point the conversion was complete. I used a fairly fine double crush. While mashing, I had a large sauce pan full of water heating on the back burner. I then poured the mash into my large kettle through a brew bag resting in a colander, rinsed the mash kettle, set it on the stove at full flame, dumped the large sauce pan of water in, and diluted it with tap water to achieve a desirable sparge temp, and volume, and dropped the brew bag in, lifted it off and set the big kettle on the heat stirring the mash in the sparge water. I lifted the brew bag into the colander and squeezed it, then poured the remaing wort in the large kettle which was on the heat. I then dropped my 2500 watt home made floating heater in the wort and plugged it into my non GFC outlet installed for the purpose, and quickly measured my first hop addition hops.....

If I was a newbie considering brewing, you would have lost me right there.
 
I'm always looking to brew more efficiently, so I can do a batch on a weekday after work (2:00 pm) to dinner time 6:00. My mashes are like 2.5 to 3 hours strike to kettle, so it ain't happening. I think I'll check out your biab and do a concentrate /top up brew on the stovetop and see what happens.
 
If I was a newbie considering brewing, you would have lost me right there.

My friend who I just started in brewing turned his hot water heater up to 180 so he can hit strike temp right out of the tap, and plans to brew at noon today, leaving the mash while he's at work. This knocks an hour out of the brew day. He's doing a full hour boil this time, but we are going to use a 30 minute boil on his next brew. He uses a large outdoor propane burner, so time to boil is about 10 minutes. He built an immersion chiller after the first brew where we used mine, so the process will pretty fast. Far less actual time put in brewing than my start to finish fast brew.

Somebody asked me to describe my method...........Not to describe the method I would advocate for a new brewer. I don't use the bag in the mash, unlike most people, as a matter of personal preference, and I sparge ONLY because my pot is not large enough for a 3 gallon brew with water and grain. With a pot of suitable size, and grain crushed in advance, and a full volume BIAB process the process is faster and simpler.

When I started my neighbor out, we did a basic simple BIAB with a one hour mash. By simply crushing finer, we could easily do a full volume 20 minute mash....... Many members here have used the 20 minute mash successfully.

All I'm really getting here with one or two exceptions is total negativity....... bogus reasons why brewing has to take 4 hours, or why you should want to take four hours or more..... absolutely no support for the idea that reducing the time commitment might help people to brew who wouldn't otherwise brew. Kegging is another way to reduce time commitment, and the Tap-a-Draft modified to use paint ball tanks not only greatly reduces tiem on the other end, but allows you to have tap beer in an ordinary kitchen fridge not dedicated to beer. Comments about the efficiency of brewing large quantities are valid.... only if someone wants large quantities of the same thing, and wants to buy the equipment, which is costly. I've already discussed larger batches with my friend who's starting brewing, and I expect he will move up to 5 gallon brews fairly quickly once he's played with hops and malts to discover what he likes. The time committment again is the reason. With his equipment he can't mash a 5.5 gallon brew, but he can easily sparge and hit that volume....... which he can boil.


H.W.
 
Somebody asked me to describe my method...........Not to describe the method I would advocate for a new brewer. I don't use the bag in the mash, unlike most people, as a matter of personal preference, and I sparge ONLY because my pot is not large enough for a 3 gallon brew with water and grain. With a pot of suitable size, and grain crushed in advance, and a full volume BIAB process the process is faster and simpler.

When I started my neighbor out, we did a basic simple BIAB with a one hour mash. By simply crushing finer, we could easily do a full volume 20 minute mash....... Many members here have used the 20 minute mash successfully.

All I'm really getting here with one or two exceptions is total negativity....... bogus reasons why brewing has to take 4 hours, or why you should want to take four hours or more..... absolutely no support for the idea that reducing the time commitment might help people to brew who wouldn't otherwise brew.
H.W.

I actually agreed with the idea of a tutorial for a simple and time-efficient method aimed at new brewers. No negativity. I also do 1 to 2 gallon small batches in about 3 hours. I just thought it was ironic that your method relies on a homemade 2000 watt fire hazard.
 
I'm all for saving time, don't get me wrong. I would say that, in terms of beer vs. time, the biggest improvements have come from:
  1. Brewing 10 gallon batches
  2. Not sparging
  3. Kegging instead of bottling
  4. Bigger burners/heating elements
  5. Bigger/more efficient wort chiller
  6. Cleaning while waiting for water to heat or wort to boil
  7. Shorter mash or doing something else while mash is going on, then coming back to it later
  8. Shorter boil
  9. Pumping instead of gravity feeding

And it is pretty much in that order, from biggest improvement to smallest. Out of those 9, 5 of them involve spending money on equipment. 2 (not sparging and shorter boil) are usually an increased cost in ingredients, which may or may not be substantial depending on your recipe. The remaining 2 are free.

So, unfortunately, there isn't a whole lot you can do to speed up the process that doesn't cost money. But planning out your brew day for definitely helps to save time.
 
I actually agreed with the idea of a tutorial for a simple and time-efficient method aimed at new brewers. No negativity. I also do 1 to 2 gallon small batches in about 3 hours. I just thought it was ironic that your method relies on a homemade 2000 watt fire hazard.

2500 watt fire/electrocution hazard, actually. ;)
 
I'm all for saving time, don't get me wrong. I would say that, in terms of beer vs. time, the biggest improvements have come from:
  1. Brewing 10 gallon batches
  2. Not sparging
  3. Kegging instead of bottling
  4. Bigger burners/heating elements
  5. Bigger/more efficient wort chiller
  6. Cleaning while waiting for water to heat or wort to boil
  7. Shorter mash or doing something else while mash is going on, then coming back to it later
  8. Shorter boil
  9. Pumping instead of gravity feeding

Good list, and pretty much exactly what I would have written (I haven't gone to kegging yet, though... someday I'm sure).

I really enjoy the process and the "alone" time--so I'm not, in principle, put off by, say, a 10-hour effort--but I'm still always looking for ways to shorten brew day. Not because the process is at all painful, but as a practical matter: the more I can squeeze down the time requirements, the easier it is to find chunks of time that are big enough to accommodate a brew session.
 
I actually agreed with the idea of a tutorial for a simple and time-efficient method aimed at new brewers. No negativity. I also do 1 to 2 gallon small batches in about 3 hours. I just thought it was ironic that your method relies on a homemade 2000 watt fire hazard.

I don't agree with your description of my home made floating heater as a "fire hazard". Everything is well protected and well insulated and well grounded. I've worked with electricity all my life, frequently with 480. I know what is safe and what is not. This heater is no more of a "fire hazard", and quite likely less, than the popular heat sticks. Likewise the safety........I have no concerns on either count due to the way it is designed. I understand people's fear of "high voltage"..... which is inherently potentially dangerous, but that fear is driven largely by ignorance. Folks use electric stoves and water heaters all the time. Because they have a UL sticker, they are "safe". Worst case scenario....... deteriorated insulation, and failure to monitor the progress toward boil....... which is inexcusable as the time to boil from mash is 8 minutes......... the pot floods over, the floating heater is inundated with wort, and shorts out due to deteriorated insulation. The breaker trips.... because it's sized correctly. The path of least resistance to ground is through the unit itself....... Supposing the breaker did not trip, and you grab the pot..... You still won't get shocked because you are NOT the path of least resistance. I'm reminded of a pair of grounded pliers I made years ago.......... and still use. A ground wire connects these pliers to the chassis of a car you are working on. You reach down and pull plug wires off while it is running.....The spark jumps to the pliers..... Many thousands of volts. You are holding the pliers in your bare hands by the metal handles, and leaning over the fender of the car..........you don't feel a thing. Numerous people have been afraid to use these.... Nobody has ever been shocked. It worked 30 years ago when I made them.... it works today.
That said, I have a lot of respect for electricity..... I've dealt with potentially deadly situations many times..... I know when to be afraid and when not to.


H.W.
 
I'm all for saving time, don't get me wrong. I would say that, in terms of beer vs. time, the biggest improvements have come from:
  1. Brewing 10 gallon batches
  2. Not sparging
  3. Kegging instead of bottling
  4. Bigger burners/heating elements
  5. Bigger/more efficient wort chiller
  6. Cleaning while waiting for water to heat or wort to boil
  7. Shorter mash or doing something else while mash is going on, then coming back to it later
  8. Shorter boil
  9. Pumping instead of gravity feeding

And it is pretty much in that order, from biggest improvement to smallest. Out of those 9, 5 of them involve spending money on equipment. 2 (not sparging and shorter boil) are usually an increased cost in ingredients, which may or may not be substantial depending on your recipe. The remaining 2 are free.

So, unfortunately, there isn't a whole lot you can do to speed up the process that doesn't cost money. But planning out your brew day for definitely helps to save time.

An excellent list........ I'm looking at low budget. At brewing on a "shoestring". Large brews involve big expensive equipment, and lots of bottling / kegging equipment. Improved heating and chilling, and reduced mash times, shorter boils, no sparge, or simple dunk sparge and of course BIAB, and time management, all apply both to large and small brews. Large burners are cheap, and the cost of building a decent size immersion chiller is relatively cheap. I would say that pumps, and the level of complexity they involve are really not worth considering in a budget simple operation initially.

This is really just about the only post that has really addressed the issue, and done it honestly.


H.W.
 
The repeated suggestion or implication that someone who wants to cut the brew day down must not like brewing, is just plain absurd. I brewed brew # 105 yesterday.... in about 20 months. 65 brews so far in my second year of brewing. That's more than a brew a week... Can you even remotely imagine I don't like brewing?? Get real!! Everybody who brews once a week please raise your hands..
H.W.
* Raises both hands*
Brewing frequently doesn't make you an expert. Im sure as hell not...
 
* Raises both hands*
Brewing frequently doesn't make you an expert. Im sure as hell not...

While true, the more you brew the more potential learning and more experimenting you have available to you. You learn a lot of general knowledge about flavor profiles by doing more variety, but you won't become an expert in a particular style without nailing that style down over the head repeatedly. I am not interested in doing that though, as I like variety in my pipeline.
 
While true, the more you brew the more potential learning and more experimenting you have available to you. You learn a lot of general knowledge about flavor profiles by doing more variety, but you won't become an expert in a particular style without nailing that style down over the head repeatedly. I am not interested in doing that though, as I like variety in my pipeline.

I Agree pretty much entirely with everything you say here.......Brewing a lot definitely does not make you an expert.......but it does give you a lot of experience....unless you brew the same couple of things again and again. It takes a real expert to make Bud Lite in huge batches again and again and always have it come out the same....... Or any beer for that matter. The ability to duplicate the recipe and process 100% every time is not something to be sneezed at......It's a real skill. I'm one of those guys who really doesn't care all that much. I note down all my brews and the process details........but I don't try to repeat because there are so many variables I want to experiment with. I might try using CR150 instead of CR60 to achieve the same SRM...just to change the flavor profile a bit, or alter the hops to add spice or balance the fruity profile away from citrus, etc. My most recent brew was a chocolate cherry stout brewed with a lager yeast (34/70) and Nelson Sauvin hops, with a fairly large percentage of sugar. I wanted light body and dry (sugar), crisp and clean (34/70), and the wine character of Nelson Sauvin,with reduced roast barley character (used some Midnight Wheat). It's fermenting along like gangbusters at 46F and tastes great....... I won't add the cherry syrup until it settles down into secondary. It'll never win any prizes at a BJCP judged contest, and folks tell me it's not "in style".......But I have enough experience to have a pretty good idea what I will get....... You don't get that kind of experience except by brewing and experimenting a lot.

But the point of this thread really was how to make brewing more manageable for new brewers. I believe brew day reduction is extremely important when it comes to getting people to brew. Some of us I think would like to keep home brewing an exclusive club. I'd like to see it become accessible enough and easy enough that people don't find it any more intimidating than baking bread for example.

H.W.
 
But the point of this thread really was how to make brewing more manageable for new brewers. I believe brew day reduction is extremely important when it comes to getting people to brew. Some of us I think would like to keep home brewing an exclusive club. I'd like to see it become accessible enough and easy enough that people don't find it any more intimidating than baking bread for example.

At the risk of sounding flippant, that's what extract kits are made for. They appeal to novice and infrequent brewers as much as those pressed for time. Homebrewing just isn't an "exclusive club" at all.

If you're trying to dial in your process, maintain quality and brew with consistency, it's probably not a good idea to impose superficial time constraints. There are process upgrades you can make to your brewhouse to expedite your brew day, but if you can't dedicate enough time to brew, your product will invariably suffer in quality. I know some people that brew on the fly, and quite frankly, their beer tastes awful.

If I don't have enough time to brew, I don't brew.
 
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