Kegging and cold crashing??

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jbb3

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I have seen several folks mention that they cold crash prior to racking into a keg. I see the need for cold crashing prior to bottling but not sure I see the need for it prior to kegging??

What do you do and is there a benefit to cold crash prior to kegging??
 
I do cold crash before kegging so there isn't as much gunk at the bottom of the keg when I pull the first pint or so. The clearer it goes in the keg the less gunk when I start drinking from it.
 
I do cold crash before kegging so there isn't as much gunk at the bottom of the keg when I pull the first pint or so. The clearer it goes in the keg the less gunk when I start drinking from it.


I agree with that - the less stuff floating around in the beer before the keg, the less you'll have to worry about cleaning out later.

Now if you're going for a Hefeweizen (I haven't put one in a keg yet), the cold crash probably not so important
 
I cold crash and add gelatin finings a few days before transferring to the keg.

It's not required to do it that way by any means, but like Rockn_M, I like to make sure there's as little gunk going into the keg as possible so I don't have to waste my first couple pours.
 
Agree with the above statements. You can certainly transfer warm to the keg and go about your process no problem, but you might acquire more sediment at the bottom, and thus more cloudy pours at first.

Cold crashing before kegging also helps me drop out all the hop pellet material in a beer that has been dryhopped, so I dont get a clogged line.
 
I always cold-crash before kegging.
I also end up with barely a coating of debris on the bottom of the keg.
And it only takes a couple of ounces discarded to then have truly bright pours 'til the keg kicks.

It's totally worth it, imo...

Cheers!
 
since I can no longer fit my conicals into my garage fridge, I was wondering about cold crashing IN the keg? Perhaps this was the original question.

I dont see why simply kegging, then pouring off the sediment after an extended wait period wouldn't achieve the same thing?

thoughts?
 
since I can no longer fit my conicals into my garage fridge, I was wondering about cold crashing IN the keg? Perhaps this was the original question.

I dont see why simply kegging, then pouring off the sediment after an extended wait period wouldn't achieve the same thing?

thoughts?

Cold crashing in the keg will drop the sediment out, and you will have clear beer as long as you don't move the keg (if you move it, you will kick it up and have to wait for it to clear again) this is what I do because my fermenters don't fit in my chest freezer. Pouring off the sediment after crashing will only remove the sediment around the dip tube, not everything. If want crystal clear beer, you can treat a keg as a secondary for cold crashing and then transfer with CO2 to a new keg (black to black), I only do this if I am transporting the keg to a competition or something.
 
Cold crashing in the keg will drop the sediment out, and you will have clear beer as long as you don't move the keg (if you move it, you will kick it up and have to wait for it to clear again) this is what I do because my fermenters don't fit in my chest freezer. Pouring off the sediment after crashing will only remove the sediment around the dip tube, not everything. If want crystal clear beer, you can treat a keg as a secondary for cold crashing and then transfer with CO2 to a new keg (black to black), I only do this if I am transporting the keg to a competition or something.

this black to black transfer you speak of.... can you s'plain? hmmm
 
this black to black transfer you speak of.... can you s'plain? hmmm

A length of tubing with a black beer out disconnect on each end (beer connectors for ball lock kegs are black, don't know if that is true for pin lock). Then you connect the beer out of your full keg to the beer out of your empty keg so that the beer flows from the bottom of keg 1 to the bottom of keg 2 with minimal splashing. This transfer should occur under a blanket of CO2 if possible and under pressure (pressurize the second keg with CO2 before starting) if the beer is carbonated. Push the beer with CO2 and slowly let the pressure out of the destination keg and the beer will flow.
 
A length of tubing with a black beer out disconnect on each end (beer connectors for ball lock kegs are black, don't know if that is true for pin lock). Then you connect the beer out of your full keg to the beer out of your empty keg so that the beer flows from the bottom of keg 1 to the bottom of keg 2 with minimal splashing. This transfer should occur under a blanket of CO2 if possible and under pressure (pressurize the second keg with CO2 before starting) if the beer is carbonated. Push the beer with CO2 and slowly let the pressure out of the destination keg and the beer will flow.

word... going to have to give that a try, I have extra kegs to use for cold crash kegs!
 

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