Questions for a RIMS Panel Build

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jwbeard

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In the interests of getting second/third/.../nth opinions and not electrocuting myself or my wife when we brew, I was hoping one of you brilliant e-brewers could give my wiring schematic a once over:

RIMSPanel.jpeg


It's based off one of P-J's designs. I configured it to have two lines (at 120VAC), one to power the switches and PID off 18awg (depicted as single lines); and the other to power the heater element off 12awg (double lines). Both lines would be plugging into the same 15a GFCI, but if thats a horrendous idea I can buy a second GFCI and find another socket (my brewing location has only one outlet nearby). Both the plugs are 15A, despite being depicted as 20A in the PDF, and the RIMS switch is interlocked to the pump switch to make sure it doesnt get turned on without liquid to heat.

A few other questions:
  1. Aside from keeping my wiring clean and orderly, are there any things I need to or should do to make this safer?
  2. Do I need a fuse someplace, and if so, where? I've already wired (and soldered in some places) most of the 2nd line (the SSR, the RIMS switch, the contactor and the RIMS outlet haven't been wired), but I can redo a wire in there if need be...
  3. My math has the total current of the system at about 12.95A, assuming negligible draw by the switches. This leaves only 14% 'clearance' to the 15a rating on the main line. Problem?
  4. Because of my first wiring attempt, the wires coming into Line 2 are 12 gauge, but now solder onto 18 gauge. Good idea to rewire the receptacle to use 18 gauge and make it consistent?

Of course, any other advice on potentially unsafe design points are most, most appreciated.

Thanks in advance, all!
 
After poking around, made some fixes and simplifications to the design, which moot a few of the questions. Thought I'd post the revised design here in case anyone was curious, though I'll note I'm not an electrician (so, inspiration but not instruction!).

RIMSPanel2.jpg


Changes:
  • Combined lines 1 and 2. Reason being that the effect on the circuit is the substantially the same whether they are plugged into an extension cord as two separate lines or are combined within the enclosure and then plugged in as a single line.
  • Put a 2A slow fuse where the 12awg wire joins with the 18awg wire, in case there's any leakage. 2A is a little more than needed (I calculate a draw of 1.49A for the Pump+PID subsystem, meaning a fuse of 1.86A was needed), but since I think the pump is hearty enough to withstand a brief surge and the PID is protected separately, the extra .14A shouldn't be an issue. No fuse on the heater, since it's a non-delicate component and a surge would trip the threshold for that portion of the system should trip the GFCI anyway.
  • Added a .5A fast fuse to protect the PID and SSR

Gonna finish off the build as soon as I pick up the fuse enclosures and fuses (likely tonight), but any other thoughts are welcome!

Amorphous thanks to the community - lots of great and useful posts on the board!

:beard:
 
Annnd closing the loop - did my first brew (8 gallon boil) with the control panel, wired as depicted in the 2nd post above. Worked flawlessly, and kept my mash within a degree of the target (151) for the full hour without any drama with any deviations being corrected pretty quickly. Made mash-out a breeze, but the 1375W element would not have been enough to raise the mash to 168 unassisted. I use a 15 gallon kettle for my mash, so I used direct fire to augment the RIMS system and just turned the propane off when the mash got to the target temp of 168 then let it sit there for 15 min.

Can't wait to brew again with it!
:mug:
 
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